dkyser

I recently purchased a Specialized Sequoia.

I wanted a steel frame bike for my 315 lb size and love the bike.
I do all road riding but the shoulders are a little rough at times with loose gravel etc. The salesperson told me the tires would roll as well as the 700X32 Gatorskins I had on my previous bike. I do not agree at all so now looking for tire options.

Current tires are Specialized Adventure Gear Sawtooth 2Bliss Ready, 700x42mm on Specialized Adventure Gear Hayfield

Should I go with 32, 35 or 37mm tires.

Have not purchased tires in a while anything new out there that is puncture resistant but rolls fast.
I do like a high psi rating as I am big guy and do not want pinch flats.

chaosdsm

Could you be over inflating those 42's???

Your estimated tire loads (based on 25lb bike weight for 'medium' frame Sequoia + rider & gear) with 45/55 splits are: Front 155 lbs - Rear 190 lbs
Tire pressures needed to support the weight for standard 15% drop:
Front: 32mm = 93psi - 35mm = 80psi - 37mm = 73psi - 42mm = 58psi
Rear: 32mm = 115psi - 35mm = 99psi - 37mm = 90psi - 42mm = 73psi

RubeRad

I agree with chaosdsm, what are you particularly not liking about the ride right now that you want to change?

You can set the psi high enough to avoid risk of pinch flats, for any given tire width/load. Additional psi only makes your ride harsher.

Going smaller than the current tire is only going to require higher psi, which would be a more unpleasant ride.

That said, if you do decide to swap out your tires, I'd be interested in buying your 2bliss Sawtooth 42s, you can pm me.

dkyser

I just feel they do not roll as easy on pavement, just seems like it takes much more energy than the gator skins.

Maybe its just me and seeing that large tire is playing games with my head.

RubeRad

Step 1: listen to this
Step 2: Do some rolldown tests. Find a quarter-mile+ stretch of road with gentle downhill. Pump your tires up as hard as you dare, coast down in a fixed position (i.e. elbows locked) use a stopwatch for time between two specific points, roll back up, let some air out, repeat.

If their theory is correct, your sensation of extra speed is actually extra road vibration that is actually slowing you down a bit.

Jarrett2

Check out the 4 Seasons:

https://www.continental-tires.com/bic...-prix-4-season

I just went from a 25mm Gator Hardshell to a 28mm 4 Season tire on my steel road bike. The ride is smoother and I don't feel like I lost speed. I'm only 140 miles in right now, but they are handling my crappy roads fine so far.

You could check out the 28 or 32mm version. It might make for a really nice tire on your new bike.

donalson

I'm near your weight (slightly over) and based on the 15% sag inflation I don't ride under 32c tires and even then I have to slightly over inflate the rear tire to get the proper sag... I know I slightly over inflate the front for my weight balance... I'm still tweaking the front numbers...

dkyser

What is your preferred width? I know there are many more options for 32 than 35 or 37?

donalson

32c is my goto on my road bike... as it as large as I can fit (early 80's crit frame) also like you said.. lots of options...

on my touring bike I run 44c tires (run narrower than labeled) but are happy with me and a heavy bike and load... (although I'll run wider next time I ride the katy trail)

rgconner

I doubt it is a 45/55 split with a clyde on a relatively relaxed riding position bike.

NoGears

I went from 23c to 25c to 28c to 35c and now I'm on 40c tires. I'll never go back to anything less than 35c and if I can help it...anything below 40c. The comfort vs. performance ratio is too skewed towards comfort for me to worry about any tiny bit of performance loss....but in all honesty...I've really not noticed any negatives as I went up in tire size as long as you choose a tire that's appropriate for the surface type. I was riding some WTB Nano 40's on pavement and they were noticeably sluggish but as soon as I switched to the 40c GravelKing....all was good again. 40c tires at 45psi is just so much more comfortable than a 28c at 80psi or a 35c at 60psi. Of course your pressures will be slightly higher as I'm only around 255 on a 20 pound bike.

kbhenze

OK my 2 cents worth on this,I am just under 300# and just bought the same bike, at first before the ride I noticed a slight rotor rub, I re-aligned the caliper. once I went for I ride I could not believe how easy it rolled compared to my older Cannondale Synapse with 28 Gaterskins. The only thing I went tubeless and run about 50 to 60 psi

Check the wheels and make sure they rotate freely. Those tires should not slow you down where it would be noticeable, unless way under pressure (10 to 30 psi).

Rayxt

First off read up on Schwalbe research into rolling resistance.

https://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_i...ing_resistance

You will immediately understand the key to lower rolling resistance is achieving as near circular footprint on the road. If it isn't circular then it's eliptical, which by definition bends the sidewalls over a greater length - sidewalls which RESIST being bent by the higher and higher air pressure you have to pump the tires up to, to carry your weight.

In simple terms, for any rider who's a 'Clydesdale' the cross-section of virtually any tire UNDER 1.75 x 28 (47-622) can not support the load and achieve a circular footprint at ANY maximum pressure. In fact you are probably putting a load on it (especially if carry gear) OVER the manufacturers recommended load limits. So if there is a catastrophic blowout, you crash and think about suing the tire maker, forget it because their lawyer will shoot the case down.

That the cycle manufacturer didn't warn you, or supplied under-specified tires for the maximum load they recommend is another point better not contemplated from a hospital bed, Or the morgue.

Two inch or bigger road tires on back and front is the only way to go. Lower pressure on the front for 'pneumatic' suspension. There's Schwalbe research on this too - as it lowers rolling resistance from bumps and improves ride quality more efficiently than (heavy) mechanical forks.

Rolling resistance and the use of pneumatic suspension to reduce 'road noise' is vital if you want an electric bike as anything that brakes rolling reduces your battery's range.

rgconner

You were doing so well until you made that unsupported claim.

It might be BETTER, but it is not "the only way to go"

rgconner

The article at the Schwalbe site has an interesting graph:



Essentially, tire resistance is always insignificant compared to the other resistance factors.

Ride what is comfortable for you, because the couple of watts is meaningless under almost any feasible conditions.

donalson

Nice chart... I'm thinking 3 also includes how the tire is made... low quality tire is dead noticeably slower feeling.... would love to see that alone in the chart...

rgconner

Also probably irrelevant.

If you like the feel of the tire, ride it.

EL LUCHADOR

to OP, the tread on your tires will slow you down. probably 3 mph slower than a smooth rolling tire

I would look at something like this

https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/co...oqualmie-pass/

ps. put your bike upside down and spin the tires and make sure they spin freely. if the disc brakes are touching and they dont spin for 30 secs or more that would also slow you down quite a bit.

EL LUCHADOR

Hi, I have to disagree with you a little(or maybe a lot) for three reasons
1. a beginner is probably not going at a speed where air resistance becomes a SIGNIFICANT factor. say <15 mph

2. since we are not pros and are not working with a lot of wattage even losing 30-40 watts could be a fair portion of total wattage available. a good road tire may have 15 watts resistance per tire where a bad treaded tire could have 30-40 watts resistance per tire.

3.Tire rolling resistance increases with weight, so for a 150lb rider it may not be consequetial but it will essentially double for a 300 lb rider so its even more important for us to reduce rolling resistance. the 30-40 watts loss from tread can now become easily 60-80 watts from added weight.

so you can see how important it is for us clydes to reduce rolling resistance.

PatrickR400

I rode on Specialized Roubaix Pro 700 X 32 tires, 95 psi, at the same weight you're at, with no puncture.

The tires you have are tubeless ready so you could have the LBS convert the wheels to tubeless, and then say goodbye to pinch flats while lowering the pressure. That should help the smoothness of the ride.

My wheels are in the shop to be converted and I will ride of Specialized S-Works Turbo 700 X 28. I'll start at around the max pressure and drop by 5 psi until I find my setting.