Wheel truing stand
#1
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Wheel truing stand
What do you use? I need one but not willing to pay Park Tool prices. Need something for truing touch ups, not planning on building wheels. Thanks in advance!
#2
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I have a TS-2 which I probably bought for $100 and thought it was too much. I think it dates from the late 90s.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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i use one of these.. i found it for $25 on Craigslist.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17573744787...Bk9SR4Dz2sO4Yg
and there are any number of lesser options available...
if you're super-low budget.. find a free bike and improvise using zip ties and chop sicks... ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17573744787...Bk9SR4Dz2sO4Yg
and there are any number of lesser options available...
if you're super-low budget.. find a free bike and improvise using zip ties and chop sicks... ?
Last edited by maddog34; 08-04-23 at 11:53 PM.
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Biker Pete
This is a very serviceable truing stand. not heavy duty but excellent function.
I personally use a TS-2.2 but only because a "friend" dropped my TS-2.0 out of the back of a moving truck.
And the reason you buy a Park. Park replaced my destroyed stand under warranty. it was over 10 years old.
i use one of these.. i found it for $25 on Craigslist.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175737447873
and there are any number of lesser options available...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175737447873
and there are any number of lesser options available...
I personally use a TS-2.2 but only because a "friend" dropped my TS-2.0 out of the back of a moving truck.
And the reason you buy a Park. Park replaced my destroyed stand under warranty. it was over 10 years old.
#5
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It doesn't take much. Your own bike is all you need. If you want something very special, and have oodles of dough, here's possibly the most expensive truing stand ever made.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 08-06-23 at 04:45 PM.
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#6
Sr Member on Sr bikes
Just Google “DIY wheel truing stand” and you’ll get videos and instruction for dozens of various rigs people have come up with for truing their wheels. From the simple “zip tie around the fork blades” method to more complex contraptions with precisely made components and assembly, and everything in between. I’m sure you can find something that suits your needs.
Dan
Dan
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there is also the Minoura which is simple and inexpensive.
as some have said above you can do "touch ups" while the wheel is in the bike ! But it's hard to develop a wheel truing technique that way
/markp
as some have said above you can do "touch ups" while the wheel is in the bike ! But it's hard to develop a wheel truing technique that way
/markp
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I bought one of these about 10 years ago for about $30 (on sale).
It works pretty well for my purposes.
Minoura Wheel Truing Stand
It works pretty well for my purposes.
Minoura Wheel Truing Stand
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Nice stands make the work to build the wheels nicer and a little faster. Drawbacks? More money, they tend to weigh more, be bigger and sometimes a lot more hassle to move and store. Mine is light and folds up quickly to a package that takes little space and sets up in seconds. I do my wheelbuilding in the diningroom. Comfortable, good light, good music. A stand what is heavy or that I wouldn't want to put on a glass table top would be a big step down for my wheel building.
Oh, I build good wheels that go forever or until the Pacific NW lava dust eats the brake surface away. My commuter wheels (the ones that die from the dust/grit) get the rims swapped twice before I use new spokes.
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Thoughts on this one? Pro? Cons?
I wish the feelers would self-center. I’ve seen a similar model that does that.
Definitely better than using the bike itself as a truing stand with zip ties. That suggestion ranks up there with hanging your bike from the saddle as a repair stand.
Last edited by smd4; 08-05-23 at 09:37 AM.
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$15 to build this one, off a Rodger Musson design. Works great for maintenance as well as building wheels. Also built his dish gauge.
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and then there is junk like this
/markp
/markp
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#18
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I've built / trued quite a few wheels, originally learned building motorcycle wheels back in the '70s. At the time I had a local metal shop build me a rudimentary but solid truing stand for a lot less than the price of a commercial one.
About eight years ago I bought the Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter (which I'd never used before) when spokes started popping on the family's four bikes stored in our garden shed along with a big bucket of chlorine for the pool (anyone with a similar situation, take this as a warning that you may be in rather serious trouble). Rebuilt the eight wheels and put the chlorine outside.
The tension meter is fantastic. Through some relaxing meditation, you can get all spokes on both sides to within a single graduation on the meter (for a symmetrical front wheel). I now wouldn't want to be without it.
Today I put my (rim-brake) 26' front wheel in my truing stand to take care of a slight sideways movement that I'd noticed lately. I discovered a strange situation : all spokes on one side were within 22 and 23 on the meter (86-96 Kgf, 36x2.0mm spokes) but all spokes on the other side were within 23 and 24 (96-107 Kgf). Pretty good for 8 years of recreational non-loaded cycling, but I don't see how this is possible, wouldn't the rim just move towards the tighter side and things would just balance out ?
I just trued the wheel and brought all spokes to 24 (107 Kgf).
Be aware that a rim can be a bit weird around the weld and you just have to live with whatever weirdness yours has.
About eight years ago I bought the Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter (which I'd never used before) when spokes started popping on the family's four bikes stored in our garden shed along with a big bucket of chlorine for the pool (anyone with a similar situation, take this as a warning that you may be in rather serious trouble). Rebuilt the eight wheels and put the chlorine outside.
The tension meter is fantastic. Through some relaxing meditation, you can get all spokes on both sides to within a single graduation on the meter (for a symmetrical front wheel). I now wouldn't want to be without it.
Today I put my (rim-brake) 26' front wheel in my truing stand to take care of a slight sideways movement that I'd noticed lately. I discovered a strange situation : all spokes on one side were within 22 and 23 on the meter (86-96 Kgf, 36x2.0mm spokes) but all spokes on the other side were within 23 and 24 (96-107 Kgf). Pretty good for 8 years of recreational non-loaded cycling, but I don't see how this is possible, wouldn't the rim just move towards the tighter side and things would just balance out ?
I just trued the wheel and brought all spokes to 24 (107 Kgf).
Be aware that a rim can be a bit weird around the weld and you just have to live with whatever weirdness yours has.
#19
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Agree with many above who point out that
1) You easily do "touch-ups" using your bike frame.
2) You could even build a wheel from scratch and true in your frame but it's a bit unwieldy
3) If you are going to build and true many wheels its good to get a good stand. There are many mentioned above but
4) The Park TS 2.2 is a really serviceable and useful tool if you are doing a lot of wheels.
I have the Park stand myself, and it really is quite nice. I've done a few wheels now and it's probably overkill. If I do more wheels I can amortize the cost over a larger number. But I like it. I also have the tension meter, which I like. Park also is awesome in standing behind their stuff.
Wiz
1) You easily do "touch-ups" using your bike frame.
2) You could even build a wheel from scratch and true in your frame but it's a bit unwieldy
3) If you are going to build and true many wheels its good to get a good stand. There are many mentioned above but
4) The Park TS 2.2 is a really serviceable and useful tool if you are doing a lot of wheels.
I have the Park stand myself, and it really is quite nice. I've done a few wheels now and it's probably overkill. If I do more wheels I can amortize the cost over a larger number. But I like it. I also have the tension meter, which I like. Park also is awesome in standing behind their stuff.
Wiz
#20
Senior Member
I've built / trued quite a few wheels, originally learned building motorcycle wheels back in the '70s. At the time I had a local metal shop build me a rudimentary but solid truing stand for a lot less than the price of a commercial one.
About eight years ago I bought the Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter (which I'd never used before) when spokes started popping on the family's four bikes stored in our garden shed along with a big bucket of chlorine for the pool (anyone with a similar situation, take this as a warning that you may be in rather serious trouble). Rebuilt the eight wheels and put the chlorine outside.
The tension meter is fantastic. Through some relaxing meditation, you can get all spokes on both sides to within a single graduation on the meter (for a symmetrical front wheel). I now wouldn't want to be without it.
Today I put my (rim-brake) 26' front wheel in my truing stand to take care of a slight sideways movement that I'd noticed lately. I discovered a strange situation : all spokes on one side were within 22 and 23 on the meter (86-96 Kgf, 36x2.0mm spokes) but all spokes on the other side were within 23 and 24 (96-107 Kgf). Pretty good for 8 years of recreational non-loaded cycling, but I don't see how this is possible, wouldn't the rim just move towards the tighter side and things would just balance out ?
I just trued the wheel and brought all spokes to 24 (107 Kgf).
Be aware that a rim can be a bit weird around the weld and you just have to live with whatever weirdness yours has.
About eight years ago I bought the Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter (which I'd never used before) when spokes started popping on the family's four bikes stored in our garden shed along with a big bucket of chlorine for the pool (anyone with a similar situation, take this as a warning that you may be in rather serious trouble). Rebuilt the eight wheels and put the chlorine outside.
The tension meter is fantastic. Through some relaxing meditation, you can get all spokes on both sides to within a single graduation on the meter (for a symmetrical front wheel). I now wouldn't want to be without it.
Today I put my (rim-brake) 26' front wheel in my truing stand to take care of a slight sideways movement that I'd noticed lately. I discovered a strange situation : all spokes on one side were within 22 and 23 on the meter (86-96 Kgf, 36x2.0mm spokes) but all spokes on the other side were within 23 and 24 (96-107 Kgf). Pretty good for 8 years of recreational non-loaded cycling, but I don't see how this is possible, wouldn't the rim just move towards the tighter side and things would just balance out ?
I just trued the wheel and brought all spokes to 24 (107 Kgf).
Be aware that a rim can be a bit weird around the weld and you just have to live with whatever weirdness yours has.
#21
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If there is a consistent imbalance of readings for all the spokes on one side vs. the other, this would generally mean that the dish is off (assuming the spoke size is the same gauge). This is normal for most rear wheels with a freehub (45% - 60% left to right imbalance).
1 equal average tension on both sides means the rim is centered between the flanges, as you'd see in a non-disc front wheel. Dished (asymmetrical) wheels will have different tensions on the two sides.
2 the effects of tension are independent of spoke gauge. 100kgf is always 100kgf regardless of the spoke.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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#22
Senior Member
[QUOTE=FBinNY;22974748]2 clarifications
1 equal average tension on both sides means the rim is centered between the flanges, as you'd see in a non-disc front wheel. Dished (asymmetrical) wheels will have different tensions on the two sides.
2 the effects of tension are independent of spoke gauge. 100kgf is always 100kgf regardless of the spoke.[/QUOTE
By reading I meant the meter #, and the possibility that the spokes on each side may have been slightly different and the conversion to kgf wasn't accurate for one side. But as stated, it is probably a slight dish issue.
1 equal average tension on both sides means the rim is centered between the flanges, as you'd see in a non-disc front wheel. Dished (asymmetrical) wheels will have different tensions on the two sides.
2 the effects of tension are independent of spoke gauge. 100kgf is always 100kgf regardless of the spoke.[/QUOTE
By reading I meant the meter #, and the possibility that the spokes on each side may have been slightly different and the conversion to kgf wasn't accurate for one side. But as stated, it is probably a slight dish issue.
#23
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Gotcha
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#24
Junior Member
If there is a consistent imbalance of readings for all the spokes on one side vs. the other, this would generally mean that the dish is off (assuming the spoke size is the same gauge). This is normal for most rear wheels with a freehub (45% - 60% left to right imbalance).
I've been thinking that maybe during the final truing spokes ended up being a bit shorter (effectively) on one side than the other (but that would have affected the dishing).
I may not have checked it at the very end, or if I did figured it was close enough
I also balance my wheels with thick plumbing solder wrapped around the spokes/ nipples, especially with spoke-mounted reflectors.
#25
Senior Member
Thanks for this, I'll check it later this afternoon (and really hope it's reasonably ok). At the time I also bought Park Tool's dish gauge so it was probably set pretty close to start with.
I've been thinking that maybe during the final truing spokes ended up being a bit shorter (effectively) on one side than the other (but that would have affected the dishing).
I may not have checked it at the very end, or if I did figured it was close enough
I also balance my wheels with thick plumbing solder wrapped around the spokes/ nipples, especially with spoke-mounted reflectors.
I've been thinking that maybe during the final truing spokes ended up being a bit shorter (effectively) on one side than the other (but that would have affected the dishing).
I may not have checked it at the very end, or if I did figured it was close enough
I also balance my wheels with thick plumbing solder wrapped around the spokes/ nipples, especially with spoke-mounted reflectors.
If you have more consistent tensions now, the dish is probably better.