fat guy buying a bike
08-23-08, 05:29 PM
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fat guy buying a bike
Hey I'm fat (370lbs but dropping), and I am looking to buy a bike. I haven't been on a bike in probably six years, but my friends all ride and I want to get a bike and ride with them.
I'm planning on riding mainly on back roads and in the city, but occasionally also through a large foresty park near my house (simple trails nothing crazy).
So I was wondering what kind of bike I should be looking at, along with what kinds of specs I should watch for so that the bike can handle my girth.
Thanks in advance to any advice
I'm planning on riding mainly on back roads and in the city, but occasionally also through a large foresty park near my house (simple trails nothing crazy).
So I was wondering what kind of bike I should be looking at, along with what kinds of specs I should watch for so that the bike can handle my girth.
Thanks in advance to any advice
08-23-08, 05:46 PM
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Hey I'm fat (370lbs but dropping), and I am looking to buy a bike. I haven't been on a bike in probably six years, but my friends all ride and I want to get a bike and ride with them.
I'm planning on riding mainly on back roads and in the city, but occasionally also through a large foresty park near my house (simple trails nothing crazy).
So I was wondering what kind of bike I should be looking at, along with what kinds of specs I should watch for so that the bike can handle my girth.
Thanks in advance to any advice
I'm planning on riding mainly on back roads and in the city, but occasionally also through a large foresty park near my house (simple trails nothing crazy).
So I was wondering what kind of bike I should be looking at, along with what kinds of specs I should watch for so that the bike can handle my girth.
Thanks in advance to any advice
08-23-08, 06:00 PM
#3
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Good reading in the Clydesdale forum, most of your questions could even be answered in one of the stickied threads.
In short...
Hard tail if you go Mountain bike.
Wheels will be your major concern.
36 spoke 3 cross with nice sturdy rims.
BTW - I weigh 360ish, and rode my vintage bike 17+ miles earlier today.
Another important element is the saddle. This is definitely personal taste. I really enjoy my Brooks B17, which did take just a little getting used to.
Enjoy!!!!
Edit: My bike is a road bike, so you are definitely not limited to mountain bikes.
In short...
Hard tail if you go Mountain bike.
Wheels will be your major concern.
36 spoke 3 cross with nice sturdy rims.
BTW - I weigh 360ish, and rode my vintage bike 17+ miles earlier today.
Another important element is the saddle. This is definitely personal taste. I really enjoy my Brooks B17, which did take just a little getting used to.
Enjoy!!!!
Edit: My bike is a road bike, so you are definitely not limited to mountain bikes.
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Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
08-23-08, 09:47 PM
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Sounds like you need a Cyclocross bike if your budget is around a grand. If you need cheaper, then an entry level hardtail mountain bike will work. If you will be mostly on the roads, put some skinny slick tires on it. The Specialized Hardrock Sport is pretty popular with the Clydes and sells for about $450 I think.
08-23-08, 10:31 PM
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get a surly cross check and build it up like this...
hubs - phil wood or deore 36 hole
spokes - DT swiss
rims - velocity dyad
bottom bracket - phil wood or shimano sealed cartridge
cranks - any mountain bike cranks
derailleurs - deore LX
seatpost - thomson
stem - thomson mountain stem
bars - any mountain RISER bars (will be way more comfortable than drops)
headset - chris king
levers/shifters - anything mountain compatable
pedals - mks touring pedals, mks clips/straps
tires - big! 38c?
brakes - your choice
saddle - your choice
all of these components are the highest standard known for high performance and durability. if you go with this build you will be more than satisfied. also many can be found used on ebay. good luck!
and heres a surly cross check that was built similar to what i just reccomended...
https://www.andrewduvall.org/images/utilitybike02.jpg
hubs - phil wood or deore 36 hole
spokes - DT swiss
rims - velocity dyad
bottom bracket - phil wood or shimano sealed cartridge
cranks - any mountain bike cranks
derailleurs - deore LX
seatpost - thomson
stem - thomson mountain stem
bars - any mountain RISER bars (will be way more comfortable than drops)
headset - chris king
levers/shifters - anything mountain compatable
pedals - mks touring pedals, mks clips/straps
tires - big! 38c?
brakes - your choice
saddle - your choice
all of these components are the highest standard known for high performance and durability. if you go with this build you will be more than satisfied. also many can be found used on ebay. good luck!
and heres a surly cross check that was built similar to what i just reccomended...
https://www.andrewduvall.org/images/utilitybike02.jpg
08-24-08, 08:57 PM
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I find that modern built frames are pretty damn strong (except for those weight weenie stuff). The weak link is usually the wheels.
rule of thumb:
Avoid fancy wheels
Avoid suspensions
rule of thumb:
Avoid fancy wheels
Avoid suspensions
08-24-08, 11:03 PM
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I'd suggest paying special attention to the wheels as has been suggested. HOWEVER I suggest 24 spokes radial and with a very light rim especially the rear wheel. That will give you more incentive to keep loosing weight.
08-25-08, 03:55 PM
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I suggest 24 spokes radial and with a very light rim especially the rear wheel. That will give you more incentive to keep loosing weight.
I've had great luck with a Kona Hoss and am in the process of upgrading the rear wheel to 36 with a heavy duty rim from the factory 32. I found I was busting about one spoke a month, but also that I had to baby the bike too much esp. when carrying a loaded trailer. The 36 will free me up from these concerns.
