Can this rust bucket be saved?
09-16-23, 04:46 PM
#1
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Can this rust bucket be saved?
Hi Guys,
Looking at this rust bucket of a frame, does this look like it can be saved? Does it look like the rust can be dealt with while keeping the frame sound for some hard riding? Any tips for what to look out for when evaluating rust buckets like this? Seller also says the RD hanger may be bent. Looks pretty straight to me though. Thoughts?
Insights very much appreciated
Looking at this rust bucket of a frame, does this look like it can be saved? Does it look like the rust can be dealt with while keeping the frame sound for some hard riding? Any tips for what to look out for when evaluating rust buckets like this? Seller also says the RD hanger may be bent. Looks pretty straight to me though. Thoughts?
Insights very much appreciated
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09-16-23, 05:01 PM
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just think how superleggero it shall become when you give it an immersion in your favourite rust removal dip...
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just think how superleggero it shall become when you give it an immersion in your favourite rust removal dip...
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09-16-23, 05:01 PM
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That's really not much rust. I wouldn't worry about the integrity of the frame at all. I don't worry until a frame shows significant signs of multiple layers of rust, like rust flakes. The thing with rust, though is that you lose a lot of paint fixing the rust. You need to factor that into what you're willing to pay. Are you going to be happy with mismatched paint? Are you willing to repaint or powder coat the entire frame? Those thing detract from the resale value of the bike and add to your cost to get it rideable. I worry much more about that than I do about frame failure.
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09-16-23, 05:07 PM
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Here's an example of a rusty bike I bought.
This was a 1979 Centurion Elite, complete bike for $60. Without the rust, that bike would probably sell from about $200 around here. Rust scares a lot of people away. I stripped this one down to bare metal, sanded off the rust, and spray painted it. Here's the bare metal. No sign of the rust.
After paint
You have to be a little more careful with really high end frames because the steel is sometimes very thin in the centers of the tubes. Also, with a really nice frame you probably won't want to paint it yourself or powder coat it, so that can turn into a money pit in a hurry.
This was a 1979 Centurion Elite, complete bike for $60. Without the rust, that bike would probably sell from about $200 around here. Rust scares a lot of people away. I stripped this one down to bare metal, sanded off the rust, and spray painted it. Here's the bare metal. No sign of the rust.
After paint
You have to be a little more careful with really high end frames because the steel is sometimes very thin in the centers of the tubes. Also, with a really nice frame you probably won't want to paint it yourself or powder coat it, so that can turn into a money pit in a hurry.
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09-17-23, 12:57 AM
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Hard to tell from the photo, but the RD hanger does look a bit wonky. Fairly straight forward process to bring it back in line though.
Interesting placement of the cable guide and chain hanger, the latter probably makes more sense than on the seat stay.
What’s the frame? Looks decent.
Interesting placement of the cable guide and chain hanger, the latter probably makes more sense than on the seat stay.
What’s the frame? Looks decent.
09-17-23, 01:51 AM
#7
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That's really not much rust. I wouldn't worry about the integrity of the frame at all. I don't worry until a frame shows significant signs of multiple layers of rust, like rust flakes. The thing with rust, though is that you lose a lot of paint fixing the rust. You need to factor that into what you're willing to pay. Are you going to be happy with mismatched paint? Are you willing to repaint or powder coat the entire frame? Those thing detract from the resale value of the bike and add to your cost to get it rideable. I worry much more about that than I do about frame failure.
Here's an example of a rusty bike I bought.
This was a 1979 Centurion Elite, complete bike for $60. Without the rust, that bike would probably sell from about $200 around here. Rust scares a lot of people away. I stripped this one down to bare metal, sanded off the rust, and spray painted it. Here's the bare metal. No sign of the rust.
After paint
You have to be a little more careful with really high end frames because the steel is sometimes very thin in the centers of the tubes. Also, with a really nice frame you probably won't want to paint it yourself or powder coat it, so that can turn into a money pit in a hurry.
This was a 1979 Centurion Elite, complete bike for $60. Without the rust, that bike would probably sell from about $200 around here. Rust scares a lot of people away. I stripped this one down to bare metal, sanded off the rust, and spray painted it. Here's the bare metal. No sign of the rust.
After paint
You have to be a little more careful with really high end frames because the steel is sometimes very thin in the centers of the tubes. Also, with a really nice frame you probably won't want to paint it yourself or powder coat it, so that can turn into a money pit in a hurry.
09-17-23, 02:03 AM
#8
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Hard to tell from the photo, but the RD hanger does look a bit wonky. Fairly straight forward process to bring it back in line though.
Interesting placement of the cable guide and chain hanger, the latter probably makes more sense than on the seat stay.
What’s the frame? Looks decent.
Interesting placement of the cable guide and chain hanger, the latter probably makes more sense than on the seat stay.
What’s the frame? Looks decent.
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09-17-23, 02:24 AM
#9
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Nope that amount of rust would not scare me, specially if this is a rarer of unusual frame. Most rust on bikes is surface rust, after a good rub of sandblast it will turn out nice. But the RD hanger certainly needs some attention. Make sure there are no cracks in it.
09-17-23, 03:01 AM
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Well we can rule out MAX because the tubes are round. Forcella is Italian for fork. Any splines in the steerer tube?
09-17-23, 02:36 PM
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Not so bad. I've seen a lot worse make a full recovery.
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