Is One Flat Pedal Really Any Better Than Another?
#51
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There is a MASSIVE difference between flat pedals. And I am talking in terms of functionality (durability is its own topic).
The difference in function between old school rat trap pedals, (or cheap plastic pedals with no pins) and modern, quality flat pedals (mostly marketed to MTB) with large platforms and well placed metal pins is huge.
When I read flats-vs-clipless discussions on Road or Commuter forums and see comments about how you can’t pedals circles in flats or about slipping/bouncing off or lack of power transfer, it is obvious to me that they have tried either old designs or cheap new ones and don’t realize how different newer, better designs are. I think that is because the newer better ones are marketed almost entirely to the MTB crowd.
And even among modern quality flat pedals, there are differences. Some are convex, some concave, some truly flat. Some have more/less pins. Pin hieghts vary. Some are especially thin. Some are plastic and other Al (both have advantages)
Mountain bikers are keenly aware how different flat pedals can be.
The difference in function between old school rat trap pedals, (or cheap plastic pedals with no pins) and modern, quality flat pedals (mostly marketed to MTB) with large platforms and well placed metal pins is huge.
When I read flats-vs-clipless discussions on Road or Commuter forums and see comments about how you can’t pedals circles in flats or about slipping/bouncing off or lack of power transfer, it is obvious to me that they have tried either old designs or cheap new ones and don’t realize how different newer, better designs are. I think that is because the newer better ones are marketed almost entirely to the MTB crowd.
And even among modern quality flat pedals, there are differences. Some are convex, some concave, some truly flat. Some have more/less pins. Pin hieghts vary. Some are especially thin. Some are plastic and other Al (both have advantages)
Mountain bikers are keenly aware how different flat pedals can be.
Last edited by Kapusta; 04-05-24 at 10:31 AM.
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#52
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[QUOTE=veganbikes;23202113]Race Face, Crank Bros (again CRANK not rock), MKS, Shimano, Spank, Look, Yoshimura, Odyssey, DMR, One Up, Wolf Tooth, Fyxation, Pembree, Nukeproof, Supacaz, Chromag, E*Thirteen, Deity, Stolen or even Wellgo are good options./QUOTE]
Many of the good pedal names are made in Taiwan. I wonder how many of these are made by VP Components? (Not Shimano or MKS.)
Otto
Many of the good pedal names are made in Taiwan. I wonder how many of these are made by VP Components? (Not Shimano or MKS.)
Otto
Last edited by ofajen; 04-05-24 at 03:19 PM.
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#53
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Well I took nobody's advice and got these....
If they spontaneously combust or make my foot fall off I give anybody on here the right to say "Toldja so." But I doubt that will happen. Amazon is pretty good about returns so when they arrive on Sunday I'll put em on and do a 20 mile ride and see how they feel.
If they spontaneously combust or make my foot fall off I give anybody on here the right to say "Toldja so." But I doubt that will happen. Amazon is pretty good about returns so when they arrive on Sunday I'll put em on and do a 20 mile ride and see how they feel.
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Well I took nobody's advice and got these....
If they spontaneously combust or make my foot fall off I give anybody on here the right to say "Toldja so." But I doubt that will happen. Amazon is pretty good about returns so when they arrive on Sunday I'll put em on and do a 20 mile ride and see how they feel.
If they spontaneously combust or make my foot fall off I give anybody on here the right to say "Toldja so." But I doubt that will happen. Amazon is pretty good about returns so when they arrive on Sunday I'll put em on and do a 20 mile ride and see how they feel.
Last edited by Kapusta; 04-05-24 at 11:47 AM.
#55
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There is a MASSIVE difference between flat pedals. And I am talking in terms of functionality (durability is its own topic).
The difference in function between old school rat trap pedals, (or cheap plastic pedals with no pins) and modern, quality flat pedals (mostly marketed to MTB) with large platforms and well placed metal pins is huge.
When I read flats-vs-clipless discussions on Road or Commuter forums and see comments about how you can’t pedals circles in flats or about slipping/bouncing off or lack of power transfer, it is obvious to me that they have tried either old designs or cheap new ones and don’t realize how different newer, better designs are. I think that is because the newer better ones are marketed almost entirely to the MTB crowd.
And even among modern quality flat pedals, there are differences. Some are convex, some concave, some truly flat. Some have more/less pins. Pin hieghts vary. Some are especially thin. Some are plastic and other Al (both have advantages)
Mountain bikers are keenly aware how different flat pedals can be.
The difference in function between old school rat trap pedals, (or cheap plastic pedals with no pins) and modern, quality flat pedals (mostly marketed to MTB) with large platforms and well placed metal pins is huge.
When I read flats-vs-clipless discussions on Road or Commuter forums and see comments about how you can’t pedals circles in flats or about slipping/bouncing off or lack of power transfer, it is obvious to me that they have tried either old designs or cheap new ones and don’t realize how different newer, better designs are. I think that is because the newer better ones are marketed almost entirely to the MTB crowd.
And even among modern quality flat pedals, there are differences. Some are convex, some concave, some truly flat. Some have more/less pins. Pin hieghts vary. Some are especially thin. Some are plastic and other Al (both have advantages)
Mountain bikers are keenly aware how different flat pedals can be.
I'm sure they look better and FEEL more substantial, but Im pretty sure the difference ends there. I guess if I cared enough I could buy both and compare them but I don't.
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You asked if there were differences. Well, there are. Whether they matter to you and are worth the money is a different question.
Last edited by Kapusta; 04-05-24 at 12:16 PM.
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Correct. Those pedals are likely just fine for OP. People have different needs and standards for nearly everything. Bikes, autos, clothing, homes, etc. That's why a range of quality/price exists for almost any consumer product. The only way folks can go wrong is by thinking "this is good enough for me, should be good enough for anyone."
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IS there any data to support what you are saying in terms of functionality and power transfer? Thought so. I admit the expensive pedals MAY have an edge on durability after say many hundreds or thousands of miles or years of use/abuse. But I doubt there's any objective difference in performance. Certainly not at my level anyway.
I'm sure they look better and FEEL more substantial, but Im pretty sure the difference ends there. I guess if I cared enough I could buy both and compare them but I don't.
I'm sure they look better and FEEL more substantial, but Im pretty sure the difference ends there. I guess if I cared enough I could buy both and compare them but I don't.
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I do have to hand it to the OP - those look like nice pedals for less than $9. And a free wrench.
My son broke a 1/2" kid's pedal and I borrowed a black pair off of a girl's purple Trek I was going to give away. Now I need to buy a pair of kid's pedals in either green (my son wants for his bike), or pink/purple/white (to replace the ones on the girl's bike). Both options are a couple bucks more than $9.
My son broke a 1/2" kid's pedal and I borrowed a black pair off of a girl's purple Trek I was going to give away. Now I need to buy a pair of kid's pedals in either green (my son wants for his bike), or pink/purple/white (to replace the ones on the girl's bike). Both options are a couple bucks more than $9.
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I'm a fan of Raceface Rides (Raceface Chester without the metal pins) on hybrids. They grip the sole of the shoe without tearing it up. Plus, they are available in multiple colors. Shop around and you can get them for $30-35.
ttps://www.raceface.com/products/ride-pedal?variant=31913987276882
If you want something heavier, the Shimano EF202 is a nice option. Maybe a bit less grippy than the Rides but they are solid. I've used these on my Quick for about 4 years then swapped them to the Trek Multitrack. They are also available in multiple colors.
https://www.rei.com/product/184860/s...02-flat-pedals
ttps://www.raceface.com/products/ride-pedal?variant=31913987276882
If you want something heavier, the Shimano EF202 is a nice option. Maybe a bit less grippy than the Rides but they are solid. I've used these on my Quick for about 4 years then swapped them to the Trek Multitrack. They are also available in multiple colors.
https://www.rei.com/product/184860/s...02-flat-pedals
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#61
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I prefer a large platform because I have big feet
Last edited by Germany_chris; 04-05-24 at 01:55 PM.
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#63
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Not dismissing at all. Just wondering if there's any objective data to back up the performance gains. Sounds like the answer is "no." But if it makes you feel better and motivates you to ride then more power to you! Maybe I'll buy some raceface pedals and compare them. Might be fun.
#64
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Well if "at your level" is just tooling around and not looking for power delivery through more of the pedal stroke and you don't ride in a way that grip on the pedal matters that much, then yeah, it might not make any difference.
You asked if there were differences. Well, there are. Whether they matter to you and are worth the money is a different question.
You asked if there were differences. Well, there are. Whether they matter to you and are worth the money is a different question.
If I cared about speed and "power transfer" as much as you seem to, I'd probably not worry about pedals and get another road bike.
Also I have ridden hundreds of miles at this point and have never had my feet slide off the pedals. Maybe if I rode during monsoons I'd need the little spikes. But my feet really don't seem to move much during any portion of the pedal stroke. I guess we are all different.
Last edited by RoadWearier; 04-05-24 at 03:25 PM.
#66
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I agree that durability might be better with the more costly pedal. I just wonder how significant that is. If I have to replace a cheap pedal once every 2-3 years, is that really significant? Unless I'm going to leave this bike to my kids as an heirloom, I doubt it.
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Kinda late for April FOOLS isn't it?? Troll.
Have fun scraping yourself off the road. Pfffft
Have fun scraping yourself off the road. Pfffft
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The Dunning Kruger Effect effect is also very strong.
I don't need a controlled study to know that having better grip on a pedal has obvious benefits, including being able to push more over the top and across the bottom of the pedal stroke, as well as making it less likely to slip off. I've actually tried it. I can pedal though stuff I would not have before without getting bounced off.
I've ridden several pedals like the ones you are buying: rounded numbs instead of pins and platforms that have bulges around the axle. Yeah, they work fine for my road/gravel and commuter bikes. Never occurred to me to get anything different. But then I started riding flat pedals for MTB and found (like everyone else does) that different pedals made a huge difference. Diety Deftrap (shown below) was a more affordable option (~$55) that I found I really liked. Why do I prefer it to one like you linked to? Its got a more supportive and very flat platform with no axle bulge in the middle, and pins that actually provide grip. So I stuck a pair on my road/gravel bike. The improvement was immediately obvious to me (albeit not as critical as with MTB). But I still run pedals like yours on my commuter bike, because they are fine for that, and there is no reason to spend the money.
Anyway, I know I'm wasting my time with this, as what you really came here for was to get confirmation for your already solidified opinion and the choice you already decided to make. But it is weird that you are being so argumentative about this, as I'm not even suggesting you made the wrong choice.
I don't need a controlled study to know that having better grip on a pedal has obvious benefits, including being able to push more over the top and across the bottom of the pedal stroke, as well as making it less likely to slip off. I've actually tried it. I can pedal though stuff I would not have before without getting bounced off.
I've ridden several pedals like the ones you are buying: rounded numbs instead of pins and platforms that have bulges around the axle. Yeah, they work fine for my road/gravel and commuter bikes. Never occurred to me to get anything different. But then I started riding flat pedals for MTB and found (like everyone else does) that different pedals made a huge difference. Diety Deftrap (shown below) was a more affordable option (~$55) that I found I really liked. Why do I prefer it to one like you linked to? Its got a more supportive and very flat platform with no axle bulge in the middle, and pins that actually provide grip. So I stuck a pair on my road/gravel bike. The improvement was immediately obvious to me (albeit not as critical as with MTB). But I still run pedals like yours on my commuter bike, because they are fine for that, and there is no reason to spend the money.
Anyway, I know I'm wasting my time with this, as what you really came here for was to get confirmation for your already solidified opinion and the choice you already decided to make. But it is weird that you are being so argumentative about this, as I'm not even suggesting you made the wrong choice.
Last edited by Kapusta; 04-05-24 at 05:09 PM.
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Everybody is different for sure. Some people are sensitive to cadence. Others are less so or not at all. Some are sensitive to bike fit. Others less so. Some are very particular about their pedals for different reasons. Others less so.
I just upgraded recently cheap pedals to the nicer "Chester" ones. I'm still learning how to use them. It is much harder to change my foot position on the new pedals. That is a good thing but also a bad thing.
I just upgraded recently cheap pedals to the nicer "Chester" ones. I'm still learning how to use them. It is much harder to change my foot position on the new pedals. That is a good thing but also a bad thing.
#70
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The Dunning Kruger Effect effect is also very strong.
I don't need a controlled study to know that having better grip on a pedal has obvious benefits, including being able to push more over the top and across the bottom of the pedal stroke, as well as making it less likely to slip off. I've actually tried it. I can pedal though stuff I would not have before without getting bounced off.
I've ridden several pedals like the ones you are buying: rounded numbs instead of pins and platforms that have bulges around the axle. Yeah, they work fine for my road/gravel and commuter bikes. Never occurred to me to get anything different. But then I started riding flat pedals for MTB and found (like everyone else does) that different pedals made a huge difference. Diety Deftrap (shown below) was a more affordable option (~$55) that I found I really liked. Why do I prefer it to one like you linked to? Its got a more supportive and very flat platform with no axle bulge in the middle, and pins that actually provide grip. So I stuck a pair on my road/gravel bike. The improvement was immediately obvious to me (albeit not as critical as with MTB). But I still run pedals like yours on my commuter bike, because they are fine for that, and there is no reason to spend the money.
Anyway, I know I'm wasting my time with this, as what you really came here for was to get confirmation for your already solidified opinion and the choice you already decided to make. But it is weird that you are being so argumentative about this, as I'm not even suggesting you made the wrong choice.
I don't need a controlled study to know that having better grip on a pedal has obvious benefits, including being able to push more over the top and across the bottom of the pedal stroke, as well as making it less likely to slip off. I've actually tried it. I can pedal though stuff I would not have before without getting bounced off.
I've ridden several pedals like the ones you are buying: rounded numbs instead of pins and platforms that have bulges around the axle. Yeah, they work fine for my road/gravel and commuter bikes. Never occurred to me to get anything different. But then I started riding flat pedals for MTB and found (like everyone else does) that different pedals made a huge difference. Diety Deftrap (shown below) was a more affordable option (~$55) that I found I really liked. Why do I prefer it to one like you linked to? Its got a more supportive and very flat platform with no axle bulge in the middle, and pins that actually provide grip. So I stuck a pair on my road/gravel bike. The improvement was immediately obvious to me (albeit not as critical as with MTB). But I still run pedals like yours on my commuter bike, because they are fine for that, and there is no reason to spend the money.
Anyway, I know I'm wasting my time with this, as what you really came here for was to get confirmation for your already solidified opinion and the choice you already decided to make. But it is weird that you are being so argumentative about this, as I'm not even suggesting you made the wrong choice.
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#72
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Not to belabor the point but has anyone tried these?
They seem to compare favorably.
https://team.bikeparts.com/2024/01/1...ster%20has%201.
They seem to compare favorably.
https://team.bikeparts.com/2024/01/1...ster%20has%201.
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Not to belabor the point but has anyone tried these?
They seem to compare favorably.
https://team.bikeparts.com/2024/01/1...ster%20has%201.
They seem to compare favorably.
https://team.bikeparts.com/2024/01/1...ster%20has%201.
Last edited by Kapusta; 04-05-24 at 06:58 PM.
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#74
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Ok, so any other wide flat pedals with studs in them are off limits according to you. Ok, sure thing. Got it.
Do you even know who created those types of pedals first? Do you work for Race Face or something?
Do you even know who created those types of pedals first? Do you work for Race Face or something?
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You don’t have to work for Race Face to know that they invented the particular model that is being copied. Anyone who rides mtb and has not been living under a rock knows the Race Face Chester. It was the first pedal to show that composite (nylon / plastic) was actually an excellent material for a pedal body.
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