upgrading components
#1
New to cycling
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4
Bikes: Jamis Renegade C2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
upgrading components
My wife has a 2021 LIV Avail with Shimano Claris components with disc brakes. She is very unhappy with the shifting quality, we are wondering if we can upgrade to a better quality and maybe changing from 8 speed cassette to a 9,10,11,12 speed cassette.
and maybe even changing to 105 group set but want to make sure they will interghange. She loves the way mine shifts with the GRX 600 series any help and recommendations would be appreciated.
and maybe even changing to 105 group set but want to make sure they will interghange. She loves the way mine shifts with the GRX 600 series any help and recommendations would be appreciated.
Likes For sgtmetcalfmn:
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,764
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1109 Post(s)
Liked 1,200 Times
in
760 Posts
First step is to ask what sort of work has been done to improve the shifting? The reason I ask is because my wife has a bike with 8 speed Claris and it shifts fine.
An 8 speed rear hub will accept a 9 or 10 speed cassette. Not sure about 11 though. But current 10 speed Shimano and Microshift stuff is very good if you decide to go that way.
Best to post this sort of question in the mechanics forum though.
An 8 speed rear hub will accept a 9 or 10 speed cassette. Not sure about 11 though. But current 10 speed Shimano and Microshift stuff is very good if you decide to go that way.
Best to post this sort of question in the mechanics forum though.
Last edited by Camilo; 08-13-23 at 08:04 PM.
Likes For Camilo:
#3
Just Pedaling
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: US West Coast
Posts: 1,016
Bikes: YEP!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 334 Post(s)
Liked 522 Times
in
348 Posts
Has any work been done on the drive train? And if so, was the person experienced? I ask because I just tuned up my neighbor's Cannondale with Shimano Claris and it's smooth unless you're putting down pressure on the pedals while trying to shift. Your wife's bike probably just needs some fine tuning on the rear derailleur. I'm OCD when it comes to shifting and I'm constantly tweaking on the cable adjusters. But that's just me,
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,395
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1562 Post(s)
Liked 1,734 Times
in
974 Posts
What exactly was her complaint? Shimano internal cable brifters with the old pull ratio (ie. ST7900, ST6700, ST5700, ST-R2000, ST-R3000) tend to have a vague feel and vague click. But this is something that gets better after you get used to it. Once you are used to it you won't feel the vagueness any more.
If she really hates the vague feel and must have a solid clunk every time she shifts, then she should try Microshift R8 brifters. These will make a stupendous clunk with every shift. You do need to change the front derailleur to an older Shimano one though because the Claris R2000 FD uses the newer '11 speed' pull ratio, even though the RD still uses the old pull ratio.
If she really hates the vague feel and must have a solid clunk every time she shifts, then she should try Microshift R8 brifters. These will make a stupendous clunk with every shift. You do need to change the front derailleur to an older Shimano one though because the Claris R2000 FD uses the newer '11 speed' pull ratio, even though the RD still uses the old pull ratio.
Last edited by icemilkcoffee; 08-13-23 at 10:32 PM.
Likes For icemilkcoffee:
#5
New to cycling
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4
Bikes: Jamis Renegade C2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
We have had the local bike shop work on it. He has had it a couple of times and it is still not much better. He did make little improvements, but nothing major. I know these are not top-of-the-line parts but we would like them to work correctly. He adjusted the front and rear derailleur and it made a slight improvement. It's clicking when she puts it in the lower gears. She has tried trimming the gears but it didn't help. I am open to suggestions.
#6
New to cycling
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4
Bikes: Jamis Renegade C2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
It's not so much the way it shifts, its more that she can't shift climbing unless she stops pedaling and the clicking noise when she is in the lower gears.
#7
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 15,001
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6197 Post(s)
Liked 4,813 Times
in
3,321 Posts
Sounds like part of the issue is your wife pedals at a low cadence. That requires one to ease up more on the leg muscle when shifts are performed. And like many she might be waiting till it's too late to shift to that next lower gear.
I'm not certain she'll find better and more expensive components any better at shifting if a low cadence is part of the current problem. One should always keep a easy gear combo for pedaling. As soon as it's not easy, then you need to shift to a lower gear ratio. Pedaling should generally be stupidly easy. If the RPM is less than 65 rpm, then it'd be better if she worked on upping her cadence. 75 rpm or better will make a lot of that hard shifting disappear. 90 rpm or better and I hardly have to ease up on the power at all when I shift.
Muscling your bikes pedals is not what fitness is about when you ride a bike. It's only about moving your legs up and down so your blood gets to pumping and your heart rate is a little elevated. I was told by a woman that owned a bike shop back in the 70's that sold me a bike that if I wanted to get leg muscles I should go to a gym.
I'm not certain she'll find better and more expensive components any better at shifting if a low cadence is part of the current problem. One should always keep a easy gear combo for pedaling. As soon as it's not easy, then you need to shift to a lower gear ratio. Pedaling should generally be stupidly easy. If the RPM is less than 65 rpm, then it'd be better if she worked on upping her cadence. 75 rpm or better will make a lot of that hard shifting disappear. 90 rpm or better and I hardly have to ease up on the power at all when I shift.
Muscling your bikes pedals is not what fitness is about when you ride a bike. It's only about moving your legs up and down so your blood gets to pumping and your heart rate is a little elevated. I was told by a woman that owned a bike shop back in the 70's that sold me a bike that if I wanted to get leg muscles I should go to a gym.
Last edited by Iride01; 08-19-23 at 11:50 AM.
Likes For Iride01:
#8
Just Pedaling
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: US West Coast
Posts: 1,016
Bikes: YEP!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 334 Post(s)
Liked 522 Times
in
348 Posts
Sounds like part of the issue is your wife pedals at a low cadence. That requires one to ease up more on the leg muscle when shifts are performed. And like many she might be waiting till it's too late to shift to that next lower gear.
I'm not certain she'll find better and more expensive components any better at shifting if a low cadence is part of the current problem. One should always keep a easy gear combo for pedaling. As soon as it's not easy, then you need to shift to a lower gear ratio. Pedaling should generally be stupidly easy. If the RPM is less than 65 rpm, then it'd be better if she worked on upping her cadence. 75 rpm or better will make a lot of that hard shifting disappear. 90 rpm or better and I hardly have to ease up on the power at all when I shift.
Muscling your bikes pedals is not what fitness is about when you ride a bike. It's only about moving your legs up and down so your blood gets to pumping and your heart rate is a little elevated. I was told by a woman that owned a bike shop back in the 70's that sold me a bike that if I wanted to get leg muscles I should go to a gym.
I'm not certain she'll find better and more expensive components any better at shifting if a low cadence is part of the current problem. One should always keep a easy gear combo for pedaling. As soon as it's not easy, then you need to shift to a lower gear ratio. Pedaling should generally be stupidly easy. If the RPM is less than 65 rpm, then it'd be better if she worked on upping her cadence. 75 rpm or better will make a lot of that hard shifting disappear. 90 rpm or better and I hardly have to ease up on the power at all when I shift.
Muscling your bikes pedals is not what fitness is about when you ride a bike. It's only about moving your legs up and down so your blood gets to pumping and your heart rate is a little elevated. I was told by a woman that owned a bike shop back in the 70's that sold me a bike that if I wanted to get leg muscles I should go to a gym.
#9
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,617
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10970 Post(s)
Liked 7,496 Times
in
4,192 Posts
My wife has a 2021 LIV Avail with Shimano Claris components with disc brakes. She is very unhappy with the shifting quality, we are wondering if we can upgrade to a better quality and maybe changing from 8 speed cassette to a 9,10,11,12 speed cassette.
and maybe even changing to 105 group set but want to make sure they will interghange. She loves the way mine shifts with the GRX 600 series any help and recommendations would be appreciated.
and maybe even changing to 105 group set but want to make sure they will interghange. She loves the way mine shifts with the GRX 600 series any help and recommendations would be appreciated.
You don't say if it's disc or rim brake, that impacts what higher level components you buy.
Just know that you have to have the same speed shifters, FD, RD, chain, and cassette. Ideally you will have the same chaining speeds too. Then, depending on your brakes, you may need to change those too so the pull matches the lever pull design.
As for not being able to shift when riding up a hill, you shouldn't shift the front when on the hill- you should shoft the front before the hill and only shift the rear when climbing.
And if there is a clicking noise when riding, the derailleur cable just needs to be adjusted a half turn or so.
Likes For mstateglfr:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,456
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4420 Post(s)
Liked 4,873 Times
in
3,017 Posts
I’m not going to attempt a remote diagnosis, but these problems are not inherent to the lower tier groupset. So while an upgrade may well be a cure, it should be possible to cure these symptoms without upgrading all the components.
Is there an alternative bike shop you could try? Your current shop appears to have failed to resolve the problems. Clicking gears should be easy for a competent mechanic.
Is there an alternative bike shop you could try? Your current shop appears to have failed to resolve the problems. Clicking gears should be easy for a competent mechanic.
Likes For PeteHski:
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Scotland
Posts: 503
Bikes: Way too many
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 900 Post(s)
Liked 607 Times
in
364 Posts
The clicking noise sounds like it's not engaged smoothly on a gear, which usually means the cable tension isn't quite right.
You can upgrade the components for a smoother experience but adjustment will be the same. GRX400 is the 10-speed which should be compatible.
It's worth noting though that beyond a point it's almost certainly cheaper / less hassle to upgrade the bike. The Avail 2 isn't super expensive to begin with; the whole bike doesn't cost much more than the GRX400 groupset.
If she likes your bike and is having difficulties with hills, then it may be a good excuse to get her a gravel bike that already has GRX400 on it.
You can upgrade the components for a smoother experience but adjustment will be the same. GRX400 is the 10-speed which should be compatible.
It's worth noting though that beyond a point it's almost certainly cheaper / less hassle to upgrade the bike. The Avail 2 isn't super expensive to begin with; the whole bike doesn't cost much more than the GRX400 groupset.
If she likes your bike and is having difficulties with hills, then it may be a good excuse to get her a gravel bike that already has GRX400 on it.
Likes For Herzlos:
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Eastern Shore MD
Posts: 884
Bikes: Lemond Zurich/Trek ALR/Giant TCX/Sette CX1
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 570 Post(s)
Liked 773 Times
in
404 Posts
For what it's worth - most of the time, I need to adjust my derailleurs after they come back from the bike shop. Clicking in certain gears is usually fixable by a 1/4 or 1/2 turn of the barrel adjuster.
I've found that just about all of the Shimano/Sram stuff will shift just fine if adjusted correctly. And that my bottom of the barrel 11sp Sram Apex shifts better than my 11sp 105.
I've found that just about all of the Shimano/Sram stuff will shift just fine if adjusted correctly. And that my bottom of the barrel 11sp Sram Apex shifts better than my 11sp 105.
Likes For Jughed:
#13
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Foothills of West Central Maine
Posts: 410
Bikes: 2007 Motobecane Fantom Cross Expert, 2020 Motobecane Omni Strada Pro Disc (700c gravel bike), 2021 Motobecane Elite Adventure with Bafang 500W rear hub drive
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 174 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 143 Times
in
94 Posts
One thing to check
Make sure your derailleur and hanger haven't been bent. I had a bike with problematic shifting, straightened the hanger, and it's been fine ever since. With a little ingenuity you can check and bend the hanger using a wheel and axle that screw into hanger mount. Or make a tool from an old axle and a paint stick, as I did, to check and bend it straight in both horizontal and vertical dimension.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 939
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 539 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times
in
259 Posts
Where I live it's an hour and a half truck ride to a bike mechanic. Luckily this forced me to learn how to properly maintain or repair all my bikes. I think your wife's bike is either shifting improperly because of a bad component or adjustment, or she is having operator issues. You may be very happy with the shifting once these are addressed and an upgrade in parts won't address either issue anyway.
If your current mechanic can't get that drivetrain working, I wouldn't want him to install an upgrade and expect it to work better. Your best option is to learn the basics of adjustment from Park Tool vids on youtube and see if you can get the shifting sorted out yourself. All bikes will occasionally require adjustment or replacement of parts. You don't want to have to run to the bike shop for something as simple as a cable slipped or stretched and you need a tension adjustment on it to make it work. You need to learn all the basic things anyway.
When you know her bike is operating perfectly, then you can decide why something different would help her. You could learn that she would prefer something completely different to fit her riding style. She may prefer an internal geared hub and the way it shifts to any derailure system. She may like a 1X system.
If your current mechanic can't get that drivetrain working, I wouldn't want him to install an upgrade and expect it to work better. Your best option is to learn the basics of adjustment from Park Tool vids on youtube and see if you can get the shifting sorted out yourself. All bikes will occasionally require adjustment or replacement of parts. You don't want to have to run to the bike shop for something as simple as a cable slipped or stretched and you need a tension adjustment on it to make it work. You need to learn all the basic things anyway.
When you know her bike is operating perfectly, then you can decide why something different would help her. You could learn that she would prefer something completely different to fit her riding style. She may prefer an internal geared hub and the way it shifts to any derailure system. She may like a 1X system.
Likes For RH Clark:
#15
Thread Killer
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 12,449
Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII, 23 3T Strada
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3149 Post(s)
Liked 1,714 Times
in
1,034 Posts
Apologies if it sounds like I’m beating a dead horse here, but I agree with those who say the drivetrain should work fine, and the problem situation as described sounds like results of an incompetent mechanic.
It’s unclear which derailleurs, or if both, are giving the OP some trouble, but I run 8spd Claris out back on the Tern and it shifts fine and runs very silently. I don’t have a front derailleur so cannot comment on Claris in that regard.
It could well be that the shift lever action doesn’t suit her for whatever reason, and so upgrading some drivetrain bits might be a remedy.
The 8spd freehub will take 9 and 10spd road cassettes, so upgrading cassette, rear derailleur and shifters is the basic upgrade option, and a new front derailleur can be thrown in, too.
Beyond that, the rabbit hole is deep, and you could look at changing the freehub to fit 11spd road cassette, as well as changing the crankset or rigging up a mountain cassette with the existing freehub, for example.
I don’t recommend any of that, though, until the stock setup is sorted and shifting right, particularly as someone said if the OP is working with the same mechanic.
I’d put a small bet in on a bent derailleur hanger being culprit here.
It’s unclear which derailleurs, or if both, are giving the OP some trouble, but I run 8spd Claris out back on the Tern and it shifts fine and runs very silently. I don’t have a front derailleur so cannot comment on Claris in that regard.
It could well be that the shift lever action doesn’t suit her for whatever reason, and so upgrading some drivetrain bits might be a remedy.
The 8spd freehub will take 9 and 10spd road cassettes, so upgrading cassette, rear derailleur and shifters is the basic upgrade option, and a new front derailleur can be thrown in, too.
Beyond that, the rabbit hole is deep, and you could look at changing the freehub to fit 11spd road cassette, as well as changing the crankset or rigging up a mountain cassette with the existing freehub, for example.
I don’t recommend any of that, though, until the stock setup is sorted and shifting right, particularly as someone said if the OP is working with the same mechanic.
I’d put a small bet in on a bent derailleur hanger being culprit here.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,847
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2338 Post(s)
Liked 2,827 Times
in
1,543 Posts
It is very likely that it would end up being cheaper to get a new bike than to swap components, especially if you can get any trade in value
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
#17
Senior Member
SIgh.. so many expensive solutions listed here. 8 speed Claris should produce reliable accurate smooth shifting for many years. It is heavier and won't last as long as the top-end gear, but it is a great bargain, and works fine.
First, check for pilot error. For both front and rear shifting, there should be little to no tension on the chain at the moment of shifting. That is, you are pedaling along applying torque to the crankset and tension on the chain, and at the moment of shifting, you ease up on the torque. You don't stop pedaling, but you reduce the RPM slightly at the instant the shift occurs. If you apply full torque during the shift transition, the shift action is slow, noisy, and chews up the drivetrain.
On the front derailleur you cannot just tap it (well, except for electronic), you need to hold the shifter lever or blade down until the chain is lifted up to the big ring. This transition takes less than a second. We've had clients come into the shop repeatedly with undiagnosable front shifting problems and it turns out they expect the shift to the big ring occurs by just lightly tapping the shifter blade.
Mechanical stuff: get a pro mechanic to run through the gears from scratch. Check the chain and the rest of the drivetrain. Change out all of the housings and cables if necessary; this is inexpensive stuff - a lot cheaper than a drivetrain swap or a new bike! All of Shimano's road stuff is good, and should shift like butter.
First, check for pilot error. For both front and rear shifting, there should be little to no tension on the chain at the moment of shifting. That is, you are pedaling along applying torque to the crankset and tension on the chain, and at the moment of shifting, you ease up on the torque. You don't stop pedaling, but you reduce the RPM slightly at the instant the shift occurs. If you apply full torque during the shift transition, the shift action is slow, noisy, and chews up the drivetrain.
On the front derailleur you cannot just tap it (well, except for electronic), you need to hold the shifter lever or blade down until the chain is lifted up to the big ring. This transition takes less than a second. We've had clients come into the shop repeatedly with undiagnosable front shifting problems and it turns out they expect the shift to the big ring occurs by just lightly tapping the shifter blade.
Mechanical stuff: get a pro mechanic to run through the gears from scratch. Check the chain and the rest of the drivetrain. Change out all of the housings and cables if necessary; this is inexpensive stuff - a lot cheaper than a drivetrain swap or a new bike! All of Shimano's road stuff is good, and should shift like butter.
Likes For Dave Mayer:
#18
Thread Killer
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 12,449
Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII, 23 3T Strada
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3149 Post(s)
Liked 1,714 Times
in
1,034 Posts
In fairness, the OP requested upgrade options including increasing number of gears, so the goal was to go beyond just getting the current Claris shifting right.
And it’s not necessarily so expensive; moving up into Tiagra 4700 could probably be done for under $300. I see new 4700 derailleurs and brifters for $219 out of Portland, OR on eBay, and what’s a 10 speed cassette and chain going to cost, $40 and $25? I’m assuming the Claris crankset works fine with the Tiagra FD…
And it’s not necessarily so expensive; moving up into Tiagra 4700 could probably be done for under $300. I see new 4700 derailleurs and brifters for $219 out of Portland, OR on eBay, and what’s a 10 speed cassette and chain going to cost, $40 and $25? I’m assuming the Claris crankset works fine with the Tiagra FD…
#19
New to cycling
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2023
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4
Bikes: Jamis Renegade C2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
Thank you for all of the Input. I appreciate all the help. I did watch several of the Park Tool videos and actually adjusted the derailleurs this weekend and it is shifting a lot better. I guess all my years as a mechanic on vehicles paid off. Now her only complaint is that she has to push very hard on the front shifter to get it to shift. Which was a concern before I worked on it also. She has weaker hands from arthritis and may not be much we can do about this. Again thank you all for the comments.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 939
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 539 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times
in
259 Posts
Thank you for all of the Input. I appreciate all the help. I did watch several of the Park Tool videos and actually adjusted the derailleurs this weekend and it is shifting a lot better. I guess all my years as a mechanic on vehicles paid off. Now her only complaint is that she has to push very hard on the front shifter to get it to shift. Which was a concern before I worked on it also. She has weaker hands from arthritis and may not be much we can do about this. Again thank you all for the comments.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,847
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2338 Post(s)
Liked 2,827 Times
in
1,543 Posts
Thank you for all of the Input. I appreciate all the help. I did watch several of the Park Tool videos and actually adjusted the derailleurs this weekend and it is shifting a lot better. I guess all my years as a mechanic on vehicles paid off. Now her only complaint is that she has to push very hard on the front shifter to get it to shift. Which was a concern before I worked on it also. She has weaker hands from arthritis and may not be much we can do about this. Again thank you all for the comments.
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Likes For squirtdad:
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,820
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 504 Post(s)
Liked 636 Times
in
376 Posts
Claris and Sora do require a bit of commitment and a longer throw to make front shifts. I can see someone with small hands and arthritis having difficulty with it, but assuming it's not damaged, it can be adjusted to work properly without rubbing or clicking quite easily. Sounds like a candidate for a 1x.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: western Massachusetts (greater Springfield area)
Posts: 699
Bikes: Velosolex St. Tropez, LeMond Zurich (spine bike), Rotator swb recumbent
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 67 Times
in
32 Posts
Claris and Sora do require a bit of commitment and a longer throw to make front shifts. I can see someone with small hands and arthritis having difficulty with it, but assuming it's not damaged, it can be adjusted to work properly without rubbing or clicking quite easily. Sounds like a candidate for a 1x.
#24
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,617
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10970 Post(s)
Liked 7,496 Times
in
4,192 Posts
we are wondering if we can upgrade to a better quality and maybe changing from 8 speed cassette to a 9,10,11,12 speed cassette.
and maybe even changing to 105 group set but want to make sure they will interghange.
and maybe even changing to 105 group set but want to make sure they will interghange.
#25
Full Member
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: California's capital
Posts: 467
Bikes: Litespeed Firenze, Spot Acme, Specialzed S Works Pro Race, Davidson Stiletto, Colnago Superissimo
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 133 Post(s)
Liked 304 Times
in
174 Posts
We have had the local bike shop work on it. He has had it a couple of times and it is still not much better. He did make little improvements, but nothing major. I know these are not top-of-the-line parts but we would like them to work correctly. He adjusted the front and rear derailleur and it made a slight improvement. It's clicking when she puts it in the lower gears. She has tried trimming the gears but it didn't help. I am open to suggestions.
Did the bike shop check rear derailleur alignment? A bent hanger can screw up shifting and remain hidden without a proper check.
You might need a different mechanic.
Good sleuthing!
Likes For Rick_D: