Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Inner thread for bottom bracket is useless

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Inner thread for bottom bracket is useless

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-06-23, 09:50 AM
  #1  
comandante
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2023
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Inner thread for bottom bracket is useless

Hey everyone.

I need to remove the bottom bracket of this bicycle, but the threads on the right pedal aren't functional. Any ideas on how I can remove it?

Thank you!
comandante is offline  
Old 05-06-23, 09:58 AM
  #2  
mdarnton
Full Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 309

Bikes: nothing to brag about

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 130 Post(s)
Liked 206 Times in 116 Posts
Read the whole thread, but I think the problem you have so inadequately expressed (what does removing the pedals have to do with anything?) might be answered here: https://www.bikeforums.net/22879514-post20.html
mdarnton is offline  
Old 05-06-23, 10:10 AM
  #3  
Kontact 
Senior Member
 
Kontact's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,067
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4409 Post(s)
Liked 1,563 Times in 1,026 Posts
If you mean that you can't get the right side of the BB out, are you aware it is usually reverse thread?
Kontact is offline  
Likes For Kontact:
Old 05-06-23, 11:36 AM
  #4  
mpetry912 
aged to perfection
 
mpetry912's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,817

Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc

Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 839 Post(s)
Liked 1,258 Times in 663 Posts
I think he means the crank extraction threads are stripped.

/markp
mpetry912 is offline  
Old 05-06-23, 11:46 AM
  #5  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,094

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4209 Post(s)
Liked 3,875 Times in 2,315 Posts
JA Stein makes a tool that oversizes the extractor threads, in the crank arm and it comes with an oversized extractor. Few shops even have one.

Some will slightly loosen the retaining bolt and ride the bike till the arm comes loose. Others have used a gear puller. I have used a hacksaw at an crossing angle to cut a slot that a pry tool can be used to open the arm's fit. I also have removed the LH arm and cup then used a heavy hammer and punch on the axle end to drive it out of the arm. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 05-06-23, 11:48 AM
  #6  
comandante
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2023
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by mpetry912
I think he means the crank extraction threads are stripped.

/markp
Yah, that's it. Sorry, first time doing this removal and I might use words confusingly to describe it.
comandante is offline  
Old 05-06-23, 11:56 AM
  #7  
mpetry912 
aged to perfection
 
mpetry912's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,817

Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc

Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 839 Post(s)
Liked 1,258 Times in 663 Posts
OK cool, thanks for clarifying. when you cannot post pictures, clear communication is key if you want help.

this is probably the single biggest problem with BF in fact - ambiguous language and no pictures to help your friends here understand how we can help you !

Not blaming you in any way ! just stating my opinion

while the JA Stein tool is great, it is expensive for a single use tool if you're not a shop. here's what I would do to address this :

Loosen the crankbolts about 1 turn so they are loose. And then go for an easy ride around the block. A couple hundred yards.

and then you should find that they are loose enough to remove by hand. Maybe try prying with a soft lever like a hammer handle.

This is probably the easiest way to remove them without resorting to pulley removers, wedges, etc.

Good luck and report back

/markp
mpetry912 is offline  
Likes For mpetry912:
Old 05-06-23, 03:38 PM
  #8  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,516

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2747 Post(s)
Liked 3,401 Times in 2,058 Posts
https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Chuck-R...46632339&psc=1
dedhed is offline  
Likes For dedhed:
Old 05-07-23, 08:00 AM
  #9  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,790

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3590 Post(s)
Liked 3,401 Times in 1,935 Posts
Originally Posted by mpetry912
Loosen the crankbolts about 1 turn so they are loose. And then go for an easy ride around the block. A couple hundred yards.

and then you should find that they are loose enough to remove by hand. Maybe try prying with a soft lever like a hammer handle.
This is a pretty reliable method, but take care to not go too far from home, as you'll want to walk the bike back to avoid damaging the crank arm by riding with it loose.
JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 05-07-23, 08:14 AM
  #10  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,365

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,219 Times in 2,366 Posts
Or use a pickle fork. Just about any auto parts store should have them. No waiting.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  
Old 05-07-23, 09:48 AM
  #11  
Kontact 
Senior Member
 
Kontact's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,067
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4409 Post(s)
Liked 1,563 Times in 1,026 Posts
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
This is a pretty reliable method, but take care to not go too far from home, as you'll want to walk the bike back to avoid damaging the crank arm by riding with it loose.
It's pretty damaged already.
Kontact is offline  
Likes For Kontact:
Old 05-07-23, 02:55 PM
  #12  
JoeTBM 
Droid on a mission
 
JoeTBM's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 1,005

Bikes: Diamondback Wildwood Classic

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 317 Post(s)
Liked 280 Times in 195 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Or use a pickle fork. Just about any auto parts store should have them. No waiting.
or Harbor Freight and save a few dollars https://www.harborfreight.com/16-in-...+rod+separator
__________________
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com




JoeTBM is online now  
Old 05-07-23, 08:56 PM
  #13  
dsbrantjr
Senior Member
 
dsbrantjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319

Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta

Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times in 723 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
Or use a pickle fork. Just about any auto parts store should have them. No waiting.
The nice thing about chuck wedges is that they push straight and evenly against the crank and BB, a pickle fork is wedge-shaped and more likely to do collateral damage.
dsbrantjr is offline  
Likes For dsbrantjr:
Old 05-08-23, 01:09 AM
  #14  
JoeTBM 
Droid on a mission
 
JoeTBM's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 1,005

Bikes: Diamondback Wildwood Classic

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 317 Post(s)
Liked 280 Times in 195 Posts
Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
The nice thing about chuck wedges is that they push straight and evenly against the crank and BB, a pickle fork is wedge-shaped and more likely to do collateral damage.
Agreed, we have a set of Jacobs wedges for when we are being careful for damage and the pickel fork for full dismantle and salvage ops. (it is already toast)
__________________
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com




JoeTBM is online now  
Old 05-08-23, 07:53 AM
  #15  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,365

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,219 Times in 2,366 Posts
Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
The nice thing about chuck wedges is that they push straight and evenly against the crank and BB, a pickle fork is wedge-shaped and more likely to do collateral damage.
If you have to use a wedge to get the fork off, there is no need to worry about collateral damage. The crank is already toast. A Stein extractor systems could be used to savage the crank but at $140 for the system, it’s a bit pricey for all but the most exotic of cranks.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  
Old 05-08-23, 04:09 PM
  #16  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,516

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2747 Post(s)
Liked 3,401 Times in 2,058 Posts
Originally Posted by JoeTBM
or Harbor Freight and save a few dollars https://www.harborfreight.com/16-in-...+rod+separator
you don't buy it you borrow it.

​​​​​​https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-e...t/loan-a-tools
dedhed is offline  
Old 05-08-23, 06:00 PM
  #17  
Kontact 
Senior Member
 
Kontact's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,067
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4409 Post(s)
Liked 1,563 Times in 1,026 Posts
Or you loosen the bolt and ride the bike and need no tools at all.
Kontact is offline  
Old 05-08-23, 09:25 PM
  #18  
aaronM46
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: 33.85485, -78.53622
Posts: 99

Bikes: A Janky Schwinn

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 59 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times in 14 Posts
Aluminum expands easily with heat. Use a cheap propane torch on the crank arm for about 30 seconds near the BB but don't heat the BB. Rotate the crank arm to evenly distribute the heat. Then spray penetrating lube into the hole. Then use a mallet on the back and smack it off. Don't be gentle. It will work. The AL will expand and the steel of the BB will not expand leaving room for the penetrating lube to suck in. The heat will suck it in. Basics of removing stuck parts 101. Every single auto or aircraft mechanic knows this. This is basic and bread and butter knowledge.

EDIT: Get the propane torch. It is great for a multitude of things. Making creme brulee, lighting a grill, loosening stuck bolts, etc.
aaronM46 is offline  
Old 05-09-23, 02:58 AM
  #19  
ign1te
Full Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 220
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 92 Post(s)
Liked 48 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by comandante
Hey everyone.

I need to remove the bottom bracket of this bicycle, but the threads on the right pedal aren't functional. Any ideas on how I can remove it?

Thank you!
Buy/borrow an angle grinder. Just cut the BB axles off. Takes less than 5 min for both sides.
ign1te is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.