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Bike rack broke rear wiper

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Old 07-02-23, 10:53 AM
  #26  
Moe Zhoost
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv
Put some electrical tape over the wiper switch.
If it's like the one on my car, it's a rotary switch mounted on a steering column stalk.
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Old 07-02-23, 10:59 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
He is right, if the car isn't designed for one pick a quality place to get one made

But at the same time the response is a bit over the top alarmist. It leaves people with the wrong impression.

They don't make a hitch for my 1970 Datsun 240z either. That is why I will probably weld up one of my own.

But looking at list linked earlier the overwhelming majority of cars on the road today were designed for hitches, and if a kit exists, they are very easy to install. The concerns are not applicable to the majority of people on here. And I would think most people would know to seek another solution if a shop quoted a week's work and $1000+ to install one. You won't make your car unsafe installing a receiver hitch.

BTW I'm shopping for a new car and whether a hitch is available is one of the things I'm looking at. So far, I've yet to come across a model that wasn't designed for one.
agree

had receiver hitches made for a few vehicles - including a Honda Civic and Prelude and an Isuzu Vehicross ... the Vehicross required some careful bumper cover / valance surgery - but when complete the hitch was barely visible

the hitches were installed primarily for plug-in bike rack and cargo carrier use - but I even pulled an 8x10 flat bed trailer with the Prelude - once loaded with a 400 lb snowmobile and another time with a 600 lb tractor
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Old 07-02-23, 11:02 AM
  #28  
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My rack rides very low on the back window, right on the bottom of the wiper. I've got a wrench and a small gear puller for the wiper. If I need the wiper, I don't need the bike.
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Old 07-02-23, 11:02 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by chaadster
Not shopping for Alfa Giulia, Audi S7, or new Toyota Supra, eh?

It’s not as rare as you think for cars not to be designed for trailer hitches, and while that doesn’t mean one couldn’t be rigged up, msu2001la ’s point to consider the amount of work required to do it is well made. Cutting up valances, disabling park sensors and forgoing cross-traffic alerts and auto-parking are things which should be considered.

My ‘11 Mini Cooper S Clubman with JCW Aero package has none of that whiz-bang stuff, but is definitely not designed to take hitch. Curt would sell me one for an ‘11 Cooper, but it’s designed for the base bumper style and even then requires cutting the bumper cover, but the Clubman JCW is very different and would require relocating the license plate if not rerouting one of the twin exhaust pipes…if it’s even possible.
Pretty much anything hanging on the back of a car will interfere with parking sensors, rear view cameras and cross traffic alerts. Not an issue particular to a hitch rack.

Yeah, some cars aren't built for it, but for the most part I'm impressed with the number of cars come from the factory with the idea of a receiver hitch in mind. Aftermarket kits wouldn't exist if cars weren't built that way from the get go. Just look to see if a kit exists before one starts worrying about crumple zones and "recalibrating" cameras.
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Old 07-02-23, 12:11 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
Yeah, some cars aren't built for it, but for the most part I'm impressed with the number of cars come from the factory with the idea of a receiver hitch in mind. Aftermarket kits wouldn't exist if cars weren't built that way from the get go. Just look to see if a kit exists before one starts worrying about crumple zones and "recalibrating" cameras.
The existence of an aftermarket kit does not mean the car was designed and built to accommodate a hitch. Caveat emptor…which is precisely the point msu2001la was making earlier when they said “if your car wasn’t designed to accommodate a hitch from the factory, I’d proceed with caution [emphasis mine] on getting one installed.”
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Old 07-02-23, 02:16 PM
  #31  
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Why not put a piece of duct tape over the switch? Not elegant but it should work well enough.
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Old 07-02-23, 05:42 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Calsun
Why not put a piece of duct tape over the switch? Not elegant but it should work well enough.
When the front wipers are on and you put the car in reverse, the rear wiper turns on automatically. Duct tape will only help if it's not raining.
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Old 07-02-23, 07:14 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mdarnton
My rack rides very low on the back window, right on the bottom of the wiper. I've got a wrench and a small gear puller for the wiper. If I need the wiper, I don't need the bike.
Unfortunately my rack sits 1/2" above the wiper, which is what broke it. Thanks for your comment about the feasibility of removing the wiper. The new wiper arm arrived today and it came with a nice wrench. To the best of my knowledge, a gear puller isn't needed on my car. I believe the arm just lifts off the motor shaft.
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Old 07-03-23, 07:51 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by chaadster
The existence of an aftermarket kit does not mean the car was designed and built to accommodate a hitch. Caveat emptor…which is precisely the point msu2001la was making earlier when they said “if your car wasn’t designed to accommodate a hitch from the factory, I’d proceed with caution [emphasis mine] on getting one installed.”
I completely disagree. The vehicles have square bolt holes build into what amounts to the unibody frame rails. They were also built with an access point for fishing in the bolts. it wouldn't be possible to sell a bolt on kit without that foresight from the manufactures.

Install one yourself, anyone can do it, and see what I mean.
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Old 07-03-23, 09:12 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
I completely disagree. The vehicles have square bolt holes build into what amounts to the unibody frame rails. They were also built with an access point for fishing in the bolts. it wouldn't be possible to sell a bolt on kit without that foresight from the manufactures.

Install one yourself, anyone can do it, and see what I mean.
Dude, c’mon. I’ve put a supercharger kit on a Porsche engine, but I’m totally certain that Porsche did not design the engine with that in mind. People make all sorts of things for the aftermarket all the time which fit and work and are totally outside the scope of the original design intent.
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Old 07-03-23, 12:32 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
I completely disagree. The vehicles have square bolt holes build into what amounts to the unibody frame rails. They were also built with an access point for fishing in the bolts. it wouldn't be possible to sell a bolt on kit without that foresight from the manufactures.

Install one yourself, anyone can do it, and see what I mean.
Reasons for frame holes
​​​​​​E-Coat drain holes
Water / road salt drainout
Welding / assembly fixture locating holes
Tie down holes for rail transport
Measuring holes for collision repair
Recommended attach points for tow truck use
Adjustments made late in development program to tweak crash performance
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Old 07-05-23, 09:59 AM
  #37  
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I don't really understand why my comment is causing so much grumbling. There isn't a kit available for my car in the link above, but they do make one for older models that looks like it might work. It's nearly $600 (plus tax) and described as 10/10 installation difficulty. Steps required include:
  • Remove the interior side panels of the trunk, remove the rear bumper/facia, both tail lights, both rear wheel well liners and the rear factory reinforcement beam.
  • Disconnect and pull the hands-free trunk opening sensor out of the rear facia (it's embedded inside).
  • Use a saw to cut out and remove an 11" x 4" section of the rear facia, which is also the location where the hands-free trunk opening sensor is embedded by the factory.
  • Re-attach the hands-free trunk sensor to the outside of the facia around the hole using zip ties
  • Bolt the hitch kit onto the chassis using the bolt holes for the factory reinforcement beam. The beam gets installed on top of the hitch kit, using longer aftermarket bolts (is this safe?).
  • Re-install the tail lights, rear facia/bumper cover, wheel well liners. Hopefully those panel gaps all line up OK. Note says that parking/self driving sensors may need to be recalibrated by a dealer.
The installation photos show the use of a hydraulic lift to access the bottom of the car. I doubt the ground clearance on my car is high enough to use ramps, so I'd probably need some kind of floor jack and stands to access the underside of the rear facia? I'd also need an electric saw, a set of torx drivers, a file and a bigger torque wrench.This is not a cheap or easy solution, even assuming I can successfully DIY this in my driveway. There is also a potential that I have to pay the car dealership to re-calibrate sensors. I'd also likely void my car's factory warranty on anything related to the rear sensors, bumper and tail lights.

I stand by my original post: If your car isn't designed to accommodate a hitch from the factory, I'd proceed with caution on getting one installed. Just because someone makes a kit or says they can do it doesn't mean it's a good idea. I'm sure on some cars it's no big deal.
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Old 07-05-23, 07:45 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by rsbob
+1 for Seasucker or a roof rack - if detaching the fuse for just that wiper is easy, do that. Typically fuses will power more than just one thing, so investigate first.

And during the rainy season here, a rear wiper is crucial since the back window of my car is a crud magnet.
As someone who worked in a glass shop many years ago, just say no to Seasucker racks. The back glass is not made to support a load. It will be fine until it's not. One good jolt can cause the back glass to break.
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Old 07-05-23, 07:48 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by phughes
As someone who worked in a glass shop many years ago, just say no to Seasucker racks. The back glass is not made to support a load. It will be fine until it's not. One good jolt can cause the back glass to break.
I stand corrected. Thanks. (I bet the large glass shops have partial ownership of See-sucker.)

Get a roof rack instead but hang something on your rear view mirror when you have a bike on top so you don’t forget its there and drive into a garage or other low hanging objects.
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Old 07-05-23, 08:21 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by phughes
As someone who worked in a glass shop many years ago, just say no to Seasucker racks. The back glass is not made to support a load. It will be fine until it's not. One good jolt can cause the back glass to break.

This might be true for some cars, but not all.
I specifically asked Audi about mounting a Seasucker rack on rear hatch glass, or the panoramic glass roof of my car and they told me that there is no problem with either location. Audi sells SeaSucker racks as a factory direct product.
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Old 07-05-23, 08:35 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by msu2001la
This might be true for some cars, but not all.
I specifically asked Audi about mounting a Seasucker rack on rear hatch glass, or the panoramic glass roof of my car and they told me that there is no problem with either location. Audi sells SeaSucker racks as a factory direct product.
The glass is the same. I know Audi sells them, and I know they say it is okay. Of course they sell them, so of course they will say it is okay. The majority of people will have no issues with them, most likely. The glass can still break. I prefer to not use glass to support a load. Use at your own risk, and carefully follow their instructions. They actually modified their instructions a while back since people were having issues with glass breakage.
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Old 07-05-23, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rsbob
I stand corrected. Thanks. (I bet the large glass shops have partial ownership of See-sucker.)

Get a roof rack instead but hang something on your rear view mirror when you have a bike on top so you don’t forget its there and drive into a garage or other low hanging objects.
That is a great suggestion. Maybe something like this.


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Old 07-05-23, 08:41 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by phughes
The glass is the same. I know Audi sells them, and I know they say it is okay. Of course they sell them, so of course they will say it is okay. The majority of people will have no issues with them, most likely. The glass can still break. I prefer to not use glass to support a load. Use at your own risk, and carefully follow their instructions. They actually modified their instructions a while back since people were having issues with glass breakage.
All glass is the same, eh? That’s a credibility red flag.
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Old 07-05-23, 08:43 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by chaadster
All glass is the same, eh? That’s a credibility red flag.
Oh lord, you know what I meant. It is tempered glass though.
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Old 07-05-23, 08:58 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by phughes
Oh lord, you know what I meant. It is tempered glass though.
No, I don’t know what you mean, nor do I believe what you’re talking about. I think you’re just repeating internet blather, and not speaking to the matter with any real substance. I don’t even believe the paradigm you posit, that the rear glass supporting bike weight leads to breakage, first because when the car is in motion, the air pressure is *lifting* the bike off the glass, and second, because what any given rear glass can support depends on the size of the window and where the weight is applied. But you don’t talk about any of that stufff, so yeah, red flag.
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Old 07-05-23, 09:07 PM
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Oh good, an argument over something trivial.
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Old 07-05-23, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rsbob
Oh good, an argument over something trivial.
Not to worry. I said what I was going to say. Evidently I make stuff up. I do know many use the rack and do so successfully, or they wouldn't make it. I simply said I wouldn't use it because of my past experience working in a glass shop. As with anything, follow the directions and know the risks.
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Old 07-05-23, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by phughes
Not to worry. I said what I was going to say. Evidently I make stuff up. I do know many use the rack and do so successfully, or they wouldn't make it. I simply said I wouldn't use it because of my past experience working in a glass shop. As with anything, follow the directions and know the risks.
Bummer. 🙁. Was hoping for a knock down drag out character assassination casting aspersions as to legitimacy of parentage devolving into something having to do with barnyard animals. Sigh.
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Old 07-05-23, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rsbob
Bummer. 🙁. Was hoping for a knock down drag out character assassination casting aspersions as to legitimacy of parentage devolving into something having to do with barnyard animals. Sigh.
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Old 07-06-23, 02:44 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by phughes
Not to worry. I said what I was going to say. Evidently I make stuff up. I do know many use the rack and do so successfully, or they wouldn't make it. I simply said I wouldn't use it because of my past experience working in a glass shop. As with anything, follow the directions and know the risks.
You worked in glass shop 40 years ago, right? That’s more than 2 decades before Seasucker even existed, so your experience is not with Seasucker, it’s with glass from around 1985, a time when when rear window defrosters and power windows were optional extras on most American cars.

I think it’s important people understand that context to your comments, because the way you state it, “As someone who worked in a glass shop….just say no to Seasucker,” implies you have some work experience with Seasuckers breaking glass, which you do not.

And you also intend to mislead when you say Seasucker modified their instructions because of glass breakage, but that was not a general revision and was done only for Tesla Model 3 because of what they attributed to rare problems with Teslas roof glass and was actually a recommendation to move the front piece of the Talon rack off the roof and onto to the back glass. Yet, you rail on about Seasuckers and back glass…
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