tws1098

Hey everyone, I don't usually post here but read a lot of posts. Still learning for sure.

I've been riding more seriously for about a year now and have dropped 10lbs (167lbs). So I've decided to cut some weight from my ride as well. I just bought a 54cm 2014 CAAD10 with Red/Force 10 speed components (rear der. and brakes are force) to replace my mostly stock 56cm 2011 Trek 1.5 (9 speed Tiagra, fsa vero crank)

The buy/sell is costing me $400. The way I understand it, I should be dropping about 3lbs in bike weight. Is that about right and if so, should be a pretty noticeable upgrade right?

For reference, if it matters in answering my question above:
I can't give power numbers yet, but on a solo ride over the weekend I averaged 17.3mph over 30 miles with 1,950ft of climbing.

redfooj

can you notice 2 bottles of water full vs empty? thats about the same

Wileyrat

I've never owned a bike that I didn't want to do a wheel upgrade on, but I'll always upgrade tires first.

Of course that's after I find a good saddle for the new ride.

If the wheels and tires are good quality, just ride it and be happy.

TheKillerPenguin

That is worth the $400 you are ultimately spending. A few pounds won't necessarily make you much faster uphill, but it will feel make your bike feel more responsive in general. While I haven't ridden that particular model Trek I can vouch for the Caad 10, it is a fine frameset.

Congrats on the upgrade!

tws1098

Yeah I didn't think it would be a crazy difference but wanted to see if that was enough to really notice on the climbs. I'm so close to a couple of local KOMs and want any help I can get.

Chandne

you will probably only notice it on long climbs. If a lot of that weight is in the wheels, you will definitely notice it everywhere, but especially on climbs.

tws1098

Can anyone suggest a wheel/tire upgrade for the future?

My trek had Vuelta 37mm "aero" wheels with 25mm Vittoria Zaffiro Pro SE tires.

The CAAD has Mavic Aksiums with the same tires.

I'd like to stay under $400 on wheels and an open to suggestions on fast tires. While I do some climbing my usual workouts are around 15mi with only 500ft of climbing. I'd like to enter some events but don't really see racing in my future.

Thanks for all the input guys.

TheKillerPenguin

Flo 30's are really good bang for the buck. You can pick up a new set for ~450 and they will be a noticeable aero upgrade. Below that price I am not sure. You may be able to pick up a set of used Reynolds Assaults or Strikes on ebay for around your 400 price point? Mayyyyybe?

RE: tires, if you are looking for a good balance between speed and durability I would recommend the Continental GP4k II. You can get like 4k out of a rear tire before it is worn out. I race on them, so does like half the peloton!

motosonic

The Shimano Ultegra wheels are a good buy at their price point.

For just a titch more you can get these and they're WAY better: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...B-BKFROREA-SHI

caloso

You've already made the best upgrade possible by losing 10 pounds from the engine. Ride the heck out of your new bike and then decide what will make it better.

tws1098

Thanks everyone. Some good info to think about.

San Pedro

Draft or wait for tailwinds

canklecat

Jenson USA has 700x23 Schwalbe One V-Guards on sale now for $15/ea. I'm thinking of trying those to replace my Zaffiros. I'd rather have them in 700x25, but the price is right and they tested with lower rolling resistance.

tws1098

I'm sure this has been discussed ad nauseam here before, but are a lot of people in a pack or drafting for KOMs? I guess it doesn't surprise me, but it does make me feel good about my solo efforts

kbarch

Some, I'm sure, but it only works if you can take advantage of it as a lead-out and attack and go off the front for a good bit at the end. If you stay in some guy's slipstream the whole time, you're not going to get a better time than him. And if you had to rely on him for a pull, don't you think he'd do even better if the roles were reversed? It's easier if you're working your way up through a pack, but still, unless you know the pack's pace is at least as fast as your solo pace, you have to be able to attack and go off the front for a significant duration if you want to be assured of improving your time, and that's not always so easy; all of a sudden you have to go faster than the pack, faster than your normal best pace, and without any help.

zymphad

Awesome. Compared to most folks, that's great, they are spending thousands to save 100 grams.

For your next upgrade, take a look at the Ultegra 8000 coming this year soon. I'm sure UK dealers should have them for around $600 for the full groupset. No need to upgrade your groupset if you like what you have though.

As others said, for me, the most important upgrade was the saddle, and then wheels. I think basing your upgrades on weight not that great of an idea, should base it on overall enjoyment and comfort. The 5700 105 to 5800 105 was worth it to me because the hood shape, and overall shifting, even braking power improved. My saddle, that was all about comfort, I no longer have numb feet like I used to because the new saddle supports me better, and allows better blood flow. My handlebar is cheap, a PLT compact, but the shape and feel was worth changing to. I upgraded the bottom bracket to, having a silent bottom bracket that doesn't creak, priceless.

Good luck with your KOM, congrats on your weight loss!

daviddavieboy

I had no idea those tires lasted so long! I didn't get 2000 out of gatorskins, but I am @ 200#

zymphad

Depends. I know there are a lot of fans. I shredded both my front and rear with flats, it was awful. All the flats happened from sidewall punctures, they have no sidewall protection. On my current Kenda that have full side to side dual protection, zero flats this year.

daviddavieboy

Sidewall punctures are what made me give up on the gators. This year I am using bont AW3 hardcase and no flats in 2412 km. Saying that I will probably get one today

San Pedro

I mainly just commute, but I like to go fast whenever I can. Of course most of my best times are from drafting or riding with a tail wind. No one is going out and taking KOMs with a stiff headwind. I think you should be able to tell a pack sorry but rate and bunching on Strava, but I've only been using it for a month.

lsberrios1 

Handlebar tape is usually a good upgrade. It feels great and you can see it

Juan Foote

You've already learned the economics of weight. Well on your way to being a "weenie" (as in weight).....congrats.

f4rrest

Consider yourself lucky. Around here we've got pros and a few dopers taking segment KOMs too.

caloso

There have been group rides since the dawn of time. Every town has a Tuesday night World Championship and a Saturday morning hammer fest where the route pre-dates Strava. Would you expect riders to adopt TT rules just because someone happened to create a Strava segment on the ride route?

zymphad

I'm pretty sure it's stated that KOMs are supposed to be solo, and if you draft someone etc, it's null, or if you do it, you can be proud for cheating.

This based on some former pro cyclist has been posting KOM attempts on YT, and he is very careful not to draft the bike who is filming him as it has to be solo riding to legitimize his KOM attempt.

Keep up your KOM solo rides!