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Why I love tubeless

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Old 09-20-18, 07:13 PM
  #51  
WhyFi
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Originally Posted by socalscalatore
My main point was that for people who are on regular tubed rims/tires, simply adding some sealant to the tube seem to be best of both worlds: You get the sealant to plug any punctures, without having to deal with a total tubeless set up.
Ah. I wouldn't look at that as "the best of both worlds," but if you do, that's cool - give it a try.
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Old 09-21-18, 07:38 AM
  #52  
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I was on road tubeless for ~1300 miles (> 2yrs), from 2013 to late 2015. Yes, the ride was great and much less flats. It's all good until

1. you actually get a flat, the sealant was nasty, and worse, you realized your removable valve had been there too long and became a PITA to remove....

2. The tire manufacturers made several defective batches of road tubeless tires that were unable to hold high pressure, worse, giving you a "big fart" (~30 psi sudden gas release) in the middle of the ride.
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Old 09-21-18, 08:03 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by hsuehhwa
I was on road tubeless for ~1300 miles (> 2yrs), from 2013 to late 2015. Yes, the ride was great and much less flats. It's all good until

1. you actually get a flat, the sealant was nasty, and worse, you realized your removable valve had been there too long and became a PITA to remove....

2. The tire manufacturers made several defective batches of road tubeless tires that were unable to hold high pressure, worse, giving you a "big fart" (~30 psi sudden gas release) in the middle of the ride.
I hear you, but thankfully none of the above have ever happened to me over many thousands of miles. Of course I've dealt with the messiness of the sealant when changing tires out. I don't find it any big deal, I drain what's in there, wipe residue away with some paper towel and off I go. Just swapped some tires onto a new set of wheels yesterday in fact, completely surprised by how easy the new Schwalbe "tubeless easy" models are to install, but so far every time I've needed a shot from a compressor to get them seated whereas in the past I've been able to sometimes use a floor pump.
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Old 09-21-18, 08:25 AM
  #54  
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For those running Orange Seal.

The endurance blend lasts twice as long as the regular but, the hole size it will seal is 1/4 inch while the regular will seal a 1/2 inch hole.

I've switched back to regular Orange Seal.
​​​​
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Old 09-21-18, 08:32 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by hsuehhwa
your removable valve had been there too long and became a PITA to remove....
Cores do get fouled, but I've learned to keep a spare valve core and a little removal tool on hand. I don't know that it'll actually come in handy on the road, as most tubeless puncture fails would probably result in a boot and a tube, but it's a couple grams for peace of mind.
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Old 09-21-18, 10:28 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by hsuehhwa
1. you actually get a flat, the sealant was nasty, and worse, you realized your removable valve had been there too long and became a PITA to remove....
Can't argue with you on this point. When I was selling my Reynolds tubeless wheels I had to take a hammer and gently tap the value out. That's how well it was seated in there. Had I been on the road and needed to put in a tube, I'm not sure what I would have done. Looked for a rock maybe to pound the value out?
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Old 09-21-18, 10:39 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Planemaker
For those running Orange Seal.

The endurance blend lasts twice as long as the regular but, the hole size it will seal is 1/4 inch while the regular will seal a 1/2 inch hole.

​​​​
Serious?
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Old 09-21-18, 02:15 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup
Serious?
Ok, I read it somewhere but, I can't find it now and that is not what is says on the website. I can tell you the regular blend is thicker than the endurance blend and has better sealant capabilities.
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Old 09-21-18, 02:46 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by NoWhammies
Can't argue with you on this point. When I was selling my Reynolds tubeless wheels I had to take a hammer and gently tap the value out. That's how well it was seated in there. Had I been on the road and needed to put in a tube, I'm not sure what I would have done. Looked for a rock maybe to pound the value out?
I feel your pain, bro Hammering out the stem with a rock was not a problem in the field. Removing the threaded securing ring of stem could be impossible, without degreaser. I blamed myself for not cleaning it routinely though.

The main reason I got rid of road tubeless was in the 2015 Schwalbe made a defective batch of Schwalbe Ones Road Tubeless tires, which could not hold pressure and worse, would periodically farted out 20-40 psi in the middle of the ride. If you read through amazon reviews, some riders claimed the tire would violently pop out the rim during inflation, really dangerous.
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Old 09-22-18, 02:30 PM
  #60  
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I’ve been on the sidelines about these for a while:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/m...JvbiB3aGVlbHM=

I haven’t made up my mind because I have no experience with tubeless, and these are meant to be used together (wheels/tires) as a system. Would these be a good (tubeless) option?
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Old 09-22-18, 03:00 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by GreenAnvil
I’ve been on the sidelines about these for a while:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/m...JvbiB3aGVlbHM=

I haven’t made up my mind because I have no experience with tubeless, and these are meant to be used together (wheels/tires) as a system. Would these be a good (tubeless) option?
there are a bunch of threads on these if I remember correctly. They look nice but I’m challenged by the idea that you’re supposed to use both their tires and wheels together and I thought (take this with a huge grain of salt), that regular tubeless tires would not work as well? So many great tubeless wheels and tires out there that I didn’t want to get stuck with one. To date I’ve had road tubeless wheels from Bontrager, Industry 9, Easton, Yoeleo, and my most recent are from LightBicycle
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Old 09-22-18, 04:15 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by socalscalatore


this seriously sounds like the best of both worlds? Regular tubes with sealant inside. Any downside?
None that Really notice.
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Old 09-22-18, 04:46 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Wheever
Yes, there will be naysayers. Yes, tubes have worked for 100,000 years and should be good enough for me, yeah yeah.
:
very happy that you found something that works for you. But those of us who prefer tubes it's not because we think that they're amazing it's just that we rarely get flats.
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Old 09-22-18, 06:48 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by GreenAnvil
I’ve been on the sidelines about these for a while:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/m...JvbiB3aGVlbHM=

I haven’t made up my mind because I have no experience with tubeless, and these are meant to be used together (wheels/tires) as a system. Would these be a good (tubeless) option?
NO, NO, NO x1000.

Too many reasons to list here, but I will never recommend Mavic wheelsets to anyone.
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Old 09-23-18, 05:36 PM
  #65  
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Was on a ride yesterday & commented on the mismatched tires on a guy's bike- Gatorskin front, xx tubeless rear,

& got another tale of woe about how it was good until it wasn't- sidewall cut, tire near impossible to remove, even by wrenches in the shop.

Four abandoned rides in less than a year ('tho high mileage rider).
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Old 09-23-18, 05:50 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Planemaker
For those running Orange Seal.

The endurance blend lasts twice as long as the regular but, the hole size it will seal is 1/4 inch while the regular will seal a 1/2 inch hole.*

I've switched back to regular Orange Seal.
​​​​


*to maximum 1.5 psi. Do not over inflate.
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Old 09-23-18, 05:56 PM
  #67  
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Handling

I have read all of the posts about sealant. I love my tubeless because of the handling. I run less pressure in my tires and they corner better and absorb road chatter better. I will by a plug kit based on what I have read here.
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Old 09-23-18, 06:25 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by woodcraft
Was on a ride yesterday & commented on the mismatched tires on a guy's bike- Gatorskin front, xx tubeless rear,

& got another tale of woe about how it was good until it wasn't- sidewall cut, tire near impossible to remove, even by wrenches in the shop.

Four abandoned rides in less than a year ('tho high mileage rider).

Counterpoint: the rear Hutchinson Overide on my Ritchey is nearing 3,000 miles, and has had nothing done to it other than some sealant added. I install and remove the tires with nothing other than my hands.

Tough-to-remove tires mean that rim/tire combo don't like each other. That is the fault of neither the tire nor the rim, but 100% the user.

Tubeless is imperfect at best, but it absolutely does what it's supposed to do, which is eliminate the irritating puncture flats from things like thorns, wire, staples, etc.

In 20,000+ miles without tubes, I've never gotten a flat that wouldn't have absolutely destroyed a tubed tire. Every time I've had to stop and take care of a tire, I've had to boot it, and hope that the tire made it home.
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Old 09-23-18, 06:29 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by woodcraft
Was on a ride yesterday & commented on the mismatched tires on a guy's bike- Gatorskin front, xx tubeless rear,

& got another tale of woe about how it was good until it wasn't- sidewall cut, tire near impossible to remove, even by wrenches in the shop.

Four abandoned rides in less than a year ('tho high mileage rider).



I don't have a dog in the fight- just a data point.
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Old 09-23-18, 06:56 PM
  #70  
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Sorry, but I have not experience about "tubelessing" How much weight gain a tubeless tyre/wheel?
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Old 09-24-18, 04:52 AM
  #71  
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Thats the difference. Riding country rosds and suburbans roads i just never get this

Originally Posted by DrIsotope
.

Tubeless is imperfect at best, but it absolutely does what it's supposed to do, which is eliminate the irritating puncture flats from things like thorns, wire, staples, etc.

I.

Last edited by raria; 09-24-18 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 09-24-18, 08:08 PM
  #72  
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Running Specialized Armadillo tubed tires and haven't had a flat in over 12k miles so while I like change in general not sure it makes sense for me to switch.
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Old 09-24-18, 08:16 PM
  #73  
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If I could go even 2k miles without a flat, I would be off tubeless. But it's never gonna happen. When I got the Cervelo last year, it came with non-tubeless wheels and Mavic tires. I got 3 flats in 105 miles.

Have used 2 different sets of tubeless wheels since, and recorded 3 flats (all catastrophic, resulting in loss of the tire) in the subsequent 7,000 miles.
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Old 09-24-18, 08:49 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by GreenAnvil
I’ve been on the sidelines about these for a while:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/m...JvbiB3aGVlbHM=

I haven’t made up my mind because I have no experience with tubeless, and these are meant to be used together (wheels/tires) as a system. Would these be a good (tubeless) option?
Yeah, I have them. They work great. Using Mavic's wheels and tires together means that you can mount the tires with your hands and they seal using a normal floor pump.

This makes roadside repairs, booting, and inflation very easy and very low stress.
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Old 10-03-18, 11:54 PM
  #75  
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whats wrong with mavic wheel sets they cheap and work , maybe i run my pro ones at too high a PSI and it causes flats , ive said before tubeless is great for cross or mtb at lower psis its almost a must now , but its really hard to run ROAD TUBELESS , lack of products being the main issue ...
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