Is a derailleur made for friction shifters compatible with indexed shifters too?
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Is a derailleur made for friction shifters compatible with indexed shifters too?
I mean the Shimano Tourney FD-TZ510-DS6 model exactly.
Thanks
Thanks
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That one will probably work. However you might be better off getting something a bit better. An Alivio or Acera front will work better and isn’t that much more expensive.
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...the ones that work best for indexed use are the ones with some "float" on the guide (top) pulley.
Sometimes, you can make the ones without float work, but they rarely work very well. Float is side to side movement, within the pulley cage, on the bushing.
IME, the more rear cogs you have in your system, the less well they tend to work without some float.
...the ones that work best for indexed use are the ones with some "float" on the guide (top) pulley.
Sometimes, you can make the ones without float work, but they rarely work very well. Float is side to side movement, within the pulley cage, on the bushing.
IME, the more rear cogs you have in your system, the less well they tend to work without some float.
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...the ones that work best for indexed use are the ones with some "float" on the guide (top) pulley.
Sometimes, you can make the ones without float work, but they rarely work very well. Float is side to side movement, within the pulley cage, on the bushing.
IME, the more rear cogs you have in your system, the less well they tend to work without some float.
...the ones that work best for indexed use are the ones with some "float" on the guide (top) pulley.
Sometimes, you can make the ones without float work, but they rarely work very well. Float is side to side movement, within the pulley cage, on the bushing.
IME, the more rear cogs you have in your system, the less well they tend to work without some float.
He’ll be fine.
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...oops.
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I mean it is designed to look like a front derailleur so you could use it but I generally wouldn't spend any money on tourney and wouldn't put money towards a bike equipped with it unless in quite a dire position. For a front derailleur there are so many better options that aren't ridiculously expensive and if the bike is in such a bad state and comes with tourney save the money and put it towards the bike that will suit your needs better.
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Maybe.
I've tried a few different friction FDs with indexed shifters and my experiments didn't work, but that doesn't mean yours won't. The older FDs I tried needed more cable pull than the index shifters delivered.
I've tried a few different friction FDs with indexed shifters and my experiments didn't work, but that doesn't mean yours won't. The older FDs I tried needed more cable pull than the index shifters delivered.
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The bicycle is a 26" fully mountain bike
Last edited by caritation; 01-07-24 at 12:20 PM.
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It will work if the ratio of cable movement to cage movement is the same as what the index shifter expects. If you already have the FD, you can just try it.
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Shimano has left/front shifters in the TZ500 family that are indexed, which I think further suggests that it should work.
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I have the derailleur. Top pull, down swing. The problem with it is that it is too hard to shift, it pulls back very hard on the cable and throws the gear back from three to two by itself. Is there any way to set it?
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I get ya...
Especially when rebuilding a bike outta the parts bin. Simplex Rear Derailleur, Shimano Freewheel, Sunrace Indexed Down Tube Shifters, Suntour Front Derailleur, Mavic Crank... Ha... Index shifting?
No Way! But at least I tried...
Especially when rebuilding a bike outta the parts bin. Simplex Rear Derailleur, Shimano Freewheel, Sunrace Indexed Down Tube Shifters, Suntour Front Derailleur, Mavic Crank... Ha... Index shifting?
No Way! But at least I tried...
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All parts of the shifting mechanism are Shimano.
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I'm not sure what you mean when you ask, "is there any way to set it?" Are you asking if there's a way to force the derailer to hold a certain position, and not allow it to pull the shifter low? In this case, your only option that doesn't involve some hacking or bodging is turning the low limit screw all the way in. This will force the derailer out to some degree. It may not get it out as far as you'd like it. Another method would involve using a piece of cable and physically securing the cable somehow (tieing it, binding it, etc.) so that it keeps the derailer in the position you want it.