Leebob69

Yesterday I got an education on KMC "Missing Links". I'd decided to pull my chain to give it a cleaning. This is on my new Specialized Sirrus. Well when I reinstalled the chain the "Missing Link" didn't snap or click when reassembled. I rode it around the block but back at home I was able to remove the link with my hands. I'm not sure if the link is a one time use link or not but I ordered a 2 pack from Amazon. I ordered Zonkie's because they were available for next day delivery. Well I'm back on the road.
Odd how I've become attached to my Sirrus. I was ticked off I couldn't go for a ride this morning. I do have a cruiser but it only does duty around the neighborhood. I also have a Gravity Dutch hybrid but it's too small for me. Guess I don't really have a backup.

Leebob69

My education just keeps marching on. Yesterday after a 20 mile ride I parked the Sirrus in the driveway. Walked into the garage and BANG I hear my bike fall over. It had been windy all day and some pretty good gusts.
Lesson 1. Pay attention to the wind and how you park your bike. Lesson 2. If my bike lands on the derailleur the hanger will bend and not just a little.
Lesson 3. Have a good relationship with your LBS. They called me an hour and a half after I left the bike with them. They straightened my hanger and found a new spare one in their parts bins for me. On a Saturday no less. I left a happy boy.

Vermilion

I gave my long-serving mid-'90s Giant Iguana a new M310 FD because the old one, which had probably served more than a decade, was not working smoothly or adjusting correctly. The 310, in modern fashion, is broadly compatible, with either top or bottom cable routing, shims to mount on three different tube diameters, and support for chainrings up to 48 teeth (46 currently). I needed to install a longer shift cable, but using an official SRAM cable, it pushed through the shifter with no disassembly required.

Vermilion

Since I was having trouble getting clean shifts with the old MRX shifters, I dug these Centera shifters out of the parts bin. They require higher effort, probably to make accidental shifts less likely (a problem I've never had), They're probably 20 years old and work beautifully.

hokiefyd 

If you like twist shifters, Shimano's RevoShift SL-RS45 series are pretty nice, and they're available in both 7- and 8-speed variety. They have a much softer and more refined feel than the cheap RS35 and RS25s often found OEM. These are the ones with the silver bodies. I recommend them if you end up needing additional shifters or something newer.

Vermilion

Good to know, thanks. The Centera shifts so smoothly in front that I'm not even aware of anything mechanical happening at the derailleur, I just feel the ratio change. MRX (microfriction) makes three clicks between the middle and large ring, and four between the granny gear and middle ring--makes sense because the chainring spacing is uneven. These old-style Centeras make four clicks everywere; not sure about current models.

The clicks are quite loud. I could probably remove the bell.

hokiefyd 

That is one thing the otherwise very nice Shimano RS45s lack -- you can't trim the front derailleur. The both sides are 100% indexed. I've not had trouble getting these to work well on any of my 3x drivetrains, but trimming is one thing the left shifter cannot do.

Vermilion

I know trimming is a big deal for some riders, and I wouldn't disagree. However, if your shifters and derailleurs are healthy and compatible, trimming really shouldn't be needed. Someone may have a legitimate reason to run incompatible parts, but I don't. I've been running GS MRX on multiple bikes for more than two decades, and I'm always using the "correct" position for the FD. If SRAM made inexpensive GS models that were fully indexed in front (don't think they do anymore), I'd be fine with them.

When I bought my early-aughts Burley recumbent, it had cheap Revo shifters installed by a previous owner. That worked fine in the rear with an MTB derailleur, but this bike requires a road FD for proper cable routing and that was a bad combination. I replaced the Revo with MRX but it still wasn't quite right in front. I finally solved the problem by using road derailleurs and microSHIFT flat-bar road lever and trigger shifters. Another option would be a microSHIFT friction front twist shifter, which should be compatible with almost everything--2x and 3x, road or MTB. However, I happen to think that indexed shifting is one of the glories of the modern world.

Leebob69

Installed a pair of new tires on the Specialized Alibi. When I picked it up it still had the OEM airless tire in front. It's history now. Now installed are a pair of 700x42 Specialized Pathfinders and new tubes.
I was a little concerned about the back wheel. The rim is not the OEM rim. It's an Alex 700x18 double wall. So I think I might be pushing it running a 42 tire. But if you multiple 2.5 times 18 you get 45. If that formula is valid I'm good.
The front OEM rim is a 21mm. If you were wondering the OEM rim did have a valve stem hole. A Schrader. That's good because that's what the rear has.




OK I have a question. The grips are OEM I believe. They are Specialized. Bike's sticker says it was built in 2017. I would like to keep them but they are sticky. I used degreaser trying to get them clean. Nope. So I used alcohol. That got the crud off them. But still sticky. I have twice rubbed Maguires Rubber cleaner\restorer on them. Still no change. Have the grips deteriorated? If so I'll replace them. Any ideas?

CadenceBoy

Researched the same thing for some sticky hoods on a road bike, didn't find any other solution than to change the rubber hoods.

If you wanna try something... maybe talcum powder, it would probably improve the feel, not as sticky anyway... haven't tried it though.

Avoid leaving the bike in the sun, it degrades the rubber faster.
When outside I always try to put the bike in the shade, not always possible i know .. just don't be the person that always leaves the bike in the sun.

Leebob69

When I picked up the Alibi it had a few pine needles hanging from it. Thank goodness no tree sap. So it surely saw some outdoor backyard time. I put some grips very similar to these on my Sirrus and a Gravity Dutch bike. Got them from Amazon. Brand name is Saplize. $8.00. Looks like I'll be ordering another pair.

All my bikes(6) get to live in the garage. I have thought of building them their own shed. A seventh would be the breaking point.

JustaJoe

Last night, I took the 650bx47mm Specialized Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss tires off a set of QR/tubeless wheels I was using on a previous bike, and installed them on my Dr. Dew's WTB i23 TA wheels. The WTB's had the plastic rim strip + were taped for tubeless (the bike came with tubed Maxxis DTR-1's); the Spesh tires had plenty of FlatOut sealant remaining in them. Installed the tubeless valves, plopped the Pathfinders on the WTB wheels, hit each one with my floor pump, wiped everything clean, done. Overnight in my garage, the rear tire did not lose any air; the front tire lost 4psi. I'll pump it back up, go for a ride, and continue to check, but very very happy this install was so simple and quick.

Leebob69

Well I ordered a new derailleur for the Specialized Alibi I decided to not part out. It's a shimano long cage. An RD310. It was dirt cheap at $10.00 shipped. Unbelievable. But then I'm fairly sure they weren't all that much 7-10 years ago.
I also bought a tool to straighten hangers from MTB. It did not come with a measuring device. I just double sided taped a aluminum L angle to the handle to measure to the rim with a tape measure. Worked fine. In hindsight maybe I went too cheap but the tool is plenty beefy.
The RD310 is shifting smooth now but there is a lot of slop in the main pivot. Plus it looks like the main body took a bit of a hit. Can't hurt to swap in a new one.

Also picked up another under seat bag on Amazon( for the Alibi this time) during black Friday sales. I think I like my RockBros better. This one is a Tongha. It was only $13 so I can't complain.

Forgot I also swapped out the ol' sticky grips for new Saplize grips in the same style as the OEM grips. Guess I did more for the Alibi than I thought

JustaJoe

My tubeless setup mentioned just above has worked...? The front tire is not losing any meaningful pressure (maybe 2-3psi per week). Rear is a different story, during a ride this weekend it was losing air rapidly. I pumped it up a few times to finish my ride. Got home, didn't see any sealant on the outside, didn't hear any hissing. Put on my glasses and took a long look at the rear tire, I had a small sliver of steel embedded in the tire. Pulled that out, pumped the tire back up, spun it a few times, hole sealed / all good!

Vermilion

Replaced the flat bar with a riser. Installed a newer set of shifters because the left one was janky. I needed to replace all the cables and make the bar-to-frame housing segments longer. Then took it out for a 10-mile spin. Not too often that you can ride in shorts on Christmas Day around here.

crawfordvj

My new Nicasio SE



The frame and wheels are the same as the drop bar Nicasio+ gravel bike. This is a flat bar, Japan-only version aimed at students and commuters.

Bought it in December and rode it around for the day before making any changes.

I was originally going to put Surly Corner bars on it but decided on something more upright—800 mm Ritchey Kyote bars.

Other changes, Ritchey seat post. Shimano Altus 1x8 changed to Microshift 1x10. Deore crankset. Rockbros pedals. Fabric Scoop saddle. Ergon grips. Most of the parts were switched from my Trek hybrid.

Took it for a short ride today to make some adjustments. Will most likely put a small rack on the front and change the quick-release skewers to locking ones.

fabian.milea

Hi everyone. I've got a Giant Toughroad SLR1 from 2016 and we had a lot of rides together, on all kind of surfaces... from long distance touring along the Danube with the family, to top of the mountains at 2244m. It is incredible how good and solid bikes are nowadays. I have registered 8400km on Strava but I'm sure I've gone more that 10000 km with it and I still use the original cassette and transmission.
I got other bikes in the mean time, first a hardtail MTB, then a Full Sus. MTB and also a road bike. So this bike was not getting much love and use in the last couple of years, just some occasional city errands and the once a year touring trip. I've tried an Jones style A frame handlebar for a few years to have multiple hand positions on long journeys, this was nice but my dream remained to convert this bike to a dropbar to make it like a "grave" bike or like the American style touring bikes.
This winter I've ordered the parts, striped the bike down to the frame, changed the BB and cleaned and regressed everything back. The bike rides great and I am happy with the result.

Before

the bones

hokiefyd 

A nice project that turned out well!

One of the things I miss most about my Giant Roam is the excellent solution Giant have for cable routing, in that tray below the down tube. I don't like internal routing, but I also generally prefer full length cable housings...I think that down tube cable tray is about the best thing going.

CadenceBoy

I'd just get a spray can of black glossy paint, 5-8 $ and call it a day.

When reinstalling the chain using the link you can turn the chain until the section of chain with link is on the top of the chainstay then push down on the pedals so it locks into place.
Assuming you connected it corectly that is ..

fabian.milea

Yes, the solution to hide the cables below the down-tube is both elegant and practical with minimal weight loss. It also has a little mud protector but I took it of as mostly I ride on dry terrain... not this time of year though....

hokiefyd 

I did the same with my Roam -- I took the "wings" off but left the down tube tray.

Leebob69

I installed new brake pads. Salmon colored Cool Stops. The bike had black Cool Stops in the rear when I got it. Rock hard front Shimano pads up front. After installing the new Cool Stops I used a blue Scotch Brite pad to clean the rims braking surface.

After the brakes I removed the yellowed Dork disc. The spoke tabs were broke and it would move around creating odd noises. I just used a pair of needle nose pliers and it busted up into tiny pieces.
After that I wiped the frame down with Maguires Quick Detailer. I need to go over to hobby lobby and see if they have some Testers to touch up the paint scrapes and chips.

What a great ol' bike!

The Chemist

I actually just went the other way with my Giant FCR3500, which I had converted to drop bars quite a few years ago, as I bought a new frame and wanted to use the Giant frame as the basis of a bike for my stepson, who wanted a flat bar.

travbikeman

I might be going a bit fast on putting my new bike together. Still have some work to do. Going to order a new Sram Apex Wide crankset, since I purchased a Rival crankset that does not fit this bike properly. Only has 2mm of space from the crankarms to the frame. Yea, not doing that. Started the build on the wheelset and had the local bike shop finish them for me. This spring will convert the tires over to tubeless. Then start a new rebuild of my 700c wheels to fit this bike with thru axle.



Interesting to me that the color shows up differently in various light. I'm liking it so far though. Looking forward to finishing it up probably in another month.

Vermilion

I donated it to a charitable organization. I built this bike myself from parts c. 2005, but my other bikes fit better and my fleet can be smaller since I no longer commute. Hard to part with it because it has sentimental value, but some deserving soul will get a well-maintained ride that should give years of reliable service.