Do I need a better bike?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Do I need a better bike?
I have 2 low end panasonics from the 80's. I converted one to fixie years ago. I recently obtained the other, a sport 500 in good order. I have fixed and sold cheap old 10 speeds for a few years now for extra cash. I am impressed with the panasonic build quality for their price point, but I always wonder what I am missing out on. I sold a peugeot with a reynolds frame and I must say it was lighter and did seem like it would be fast (it was still not a high end bike).
So I guess the question is.... how much extra speed and reliability do you get from mid to high end bikes over one of my decent panasonics? I have had 0 reliability issues with my bikes so that seems hard to beat.
I like to ride long distance and have no interest in sprinting. I am interested in completing an Ironman at some point and I wouldn't mind doing some touring on it. Thanks all,
So I guess the question is.... how much extra speed and reliability do you get from mid to high end bikes over one of my decent panasonics? I have had 0 reliability issues with my bikes so that seems hard to beat.
I like to ride long distance and have no interest in sprinting. I am interested in completing an Ironman at some point and I wouldn't mind doing some touring on it. Thanks all,
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1609 Post(s)
Liked 2,216 Times
in
1,103 Posts
Welcome to C&V, even with post 3!
You know that speed is all about the engine. Having said that, the next thing to consider is wheel weight or more correctly, rim and tire weight. That stuff you have to make go round. Past that, experience is the best teacher. More speed and improved reliability over 100% reliability is hard to beat!
The part you didn't mention, but is implied, is long distance comfort. That is related to fit and frame dynamics during a ride.
I let others provide the answer to your question in greater detail.
You know that speed is all about the engine. Having said that, the next thing to consider is wheel weight or more correctly, rim and tire weight. That stuff you have to make go round. Past that, experience is the best teacher. More speed and improved reliability over 100% reliability is hard to beat!
The part you didn't mention, but is implied, is long distance comfort. That is related to fit and frame dynamics during a ride.
I let others provide the answer to your question in greater detail.
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
#3
Veteran, Pacifist
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 13,337
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Mentioned: 284 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3901 Post(s)
Liked 4,845 Times
in
2,234 Posts
You won't get much (if any) speed increase with a higher quality frame on flat roads. A small improvement on climbs, assuming the same gearing. IMHO, what you gain with a higher quality frameset is a more 'refined' ride, a sense of road feel without harshness; a bike that feels more 'lively' and ready to go; an 'ease' of handling with a lighter frame.
However, almost all of the road feel comes through tires, then wheels, handlebars, shoes, saddle - frame material is low on the list (unless it's truly gas-pipe quality).
Give me great tires and wheels on a mid-range frame over a great frame with mid-range tires and wheels.
Others may disagree.
However, almost all of the road feel comes through tires, then wheels, handlebars, shoes, saddle - frame material is low on the list (unless it's truly gas-pipe quality).
Give me great tires and wheels on a mid-range frame over a great frame with mid-range tires and wheels.
Others may disagree.
__________________
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 7,922
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Mentioned: 194 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1627 Post(s)
Liked 630 Times
in
356 Posts
Like Lance says: It's Not About the Bike.
(It's about the drugs. Spend your money on good drugs and everything else won't matter.)
Apart from that, if you're like me you will notice more of a difference in better quality wheels and tires than you will upgrading the frame set. That's typical for riders as they become more experienced and have tried lots of different setups. HOWEVER, if you shop around on your local CL and other places to find used bikes, you may very well find a whole new more modern, lighter, efficient setup for the price of a pair of mail order wheels.
(It's about the drugs. Spend your money on good drugs and everything else won't matter.)
Apart from that, if you're like me you will notice more of a difference in better quality wheels and tires than you will upgrading the frame set. That's typical for riders as they become more experienced and have tried lots of different setups. HOWEVER, if you shop around on your local CL and other places to find used bikes, you may very well find a whole new more modern, lighter, efficient setup for the price of a pair of mail order wheels.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#5
mycocyclist
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Monkey Junction, Wilmington, NC
Posts: 1,235
Bikes: 1964 Schwinn Paramount P-13 DeLuxe, 1964 Schwinn Sport Super Sport, 1972 Falcon San Remo, 1974 Maserati MT-1, 1974 Raleigh International, 1984 Lotus Odyssey, 198? Rossin Ghibli, 1990 LeMond Le Vanquer (sic), 1991 Specialized Allez Transition Pro, +
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 910 Post(s)
Liked 822 Times
in
453 Posts
Doesn't everyone always need a better bike?
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 705
Bikes: 1974 Copper Raleigh International, 1975 Olive Green Raleigh Grand Prix, 1974 Raleigh Europa Custom
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 104 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
You can't get much higher than a Reynolds tubed Peugeot. In steel anyway.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 778
Bikes: Marin Bolinas ridge, Carlton Corsa 5, Falcon Olympic 12, 98 Shesh Rockhopper,
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 88 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Do you NEED a better bike? Always, a better bike, then say a yellow bike, and then that bike on EBay . . . just because.
It is not a Thug life but a Bike life!
N+1 for life!
A set of better wheels is where you will notice the most change as stated above, and it is not necessarily about great quality, even a set of Araya rims with stainless spokes and some Shimano hubs, the secret is in decent grease and bearings, and the adjustment of your cones, then getting them trued by someone who is able to work with older wheels.
It is not a Thug life but a Bike life!
N+1 for life!
A set of better wheels is where you will notice the most change as stated above, and it is not necessarily about great quality, even a set of Araya rims with stainless spokes and some Shimano hubs, the secret is in decent grease and bearings, and the adjustment of your cones, then getting them trued by someone who is able to work with older wheels.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,880
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
Of course you need a better bike!
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
All good answers, it seems like aero bars can make a substantial speed increase, I wasn't sure if a lighter frame would. The peugoet was 501 not 531 tubing if I recall correctly. It was a sweet ride and I would love to have it back, but it provided a tidy profit in a time of need. I cant justify upgrading parts(except seat), I would have to buy a bike with groupset I wanted (seems much cheaper this way).
I see some cheaper 90's road bikes out there (reputable but lower level ~$300), and wonder if they are better than my panasonic. Im sure the aluminum ones would be lighter. I hear about problems with index shifters and wasnt a fan of cheap ones I have used.
I see some cheaper 90's road bikes out there (reputable but lower level ~$300), and wonder if they are better than my panasonic. Im sure the aluminum ones would be lighter. I hear about problems with index shifters and wasnt a fan of cheap ones I have used.
#12
Senior Member
There is something to be said for a great set of wheels and tires that is for sure. Geometry can add to the sense of speed. I am no faster on any one frame but for some reason my 72 PX 10 just feels so awesome to ride. Most likely the Tubular tires but my Raleigh also has them. So The more relaxed geometry of the older frame and its perfect amount of spring seems to make a big difference to me for ride quality. I guess it depends on what you want? My Raleigh is also 531 Reynolds, rides great, but its 80`s geometry makes it more of a race bike for fast corners and sprints over comfortable fast joy.
So you need to try many to find out what you like best. So yes you need another bike, it may or may not be better, but it is fun.
So you need to try many to find out what you like best. So yes you need another bike, it may or may not be better, but it is fun.
__________________
My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
Last edited by Steve Whitlatch; 05-28-17 at 08:22 PM.
#13
Senior Member
I own an '87 Panasonic. Have done a few upgrades so far along the line besides maintenance (7 speed, cables, housing, tires etc.). The engine does an adequate job of keeping it around 20 mph on the high end. I am planning a wheel upgrade, I suspect better performance with that. She is a little on the heavy side, but I don't mind. And does a good job of taking me to the store on occasion besides long rides. Depending on your needs and goals your bike may suit you fine.
#14
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,800
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1393 Post(s)
Liked 1,331 Times
in
837 Posts
Too bad you sold that Peugeot, unless it didn't fit you. I really liked my 1980 PKN-10, and my lowly 1970 UO-8 is my trusty go-to errand runner, and surprisingly fun to ride, particularly with my upgrades of aluminum rims, SunTour derailleurs and barcons, road quill pedals, and aluminum crankset with 12-speed half-step gearing.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: New York Metro Area
Posts: 3,863
Bikes: '02 Litespeed, '99 Bianchi Alfana. '91 Fuji Saratoga, '84 Peugeot Canyon Express, '82 Moto GR, '81 Fuji America, '81 Fuji Royale; '78 Bridgestone Diamond Touring, '76 Fuji America, plus many more!
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 181 Post(s)
Liked 224 Times
in
127 Posts
If something great shows up in your size at an amazingly low price....you know what to do. There are a lot of inexpensive mid-range bikes out there that are excellent riders, but the high-end stuff is typically scarce and expensive. It's a numbers game. There weren't as many of them to start out with. When you see a really super deal on a high-end bike in your size, don't hesitate too much. I am still crying over an ultra high-end touring bike with a full 531 frame set that I missed out on. It was my size, and $50. I snoozed too much. I was trying to "behave" at the time...the wrong time!
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: northern michigan
Posts: 13,317
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Liked 595 Times
in
313 Posts
You won't get much (if any) speed increase with a higher quality frame on flat roads. A small improvement on climbs, assuming the same gearing. IMHO, what you gain with a higher quality frameset is a more 'refined' ride, a sense of road feel without harshness; a bike that feels more 'lively' and ready to go; an 'ease' of handling with a lighter frame.
However, almost all of the road feel comes through tires, then wheels, handlebars, shoes, saddle - frame material is low on the list (unless it's truly gas-pipe quality).
Give me great tires and wheels on a mid-range frame over a great frame with mid-range tires and wheels.
Others may disagree.
However, almost all of the road feel comes through tires, then wheels, handlebars, shoes, saddle - frame material is low on the list (unless it's truly gas-pipe quality).
Give me great tires and wheels on a mid-range frame over a great frame with mid-range tires and wheels.
Others may disagree.
I love riding the old Colnago with Columbus tubing and tubular wheelset (21.5lbs) and the Trek 760 (20lbs) with full 531c and Mavic tubulars but neither compare to the Cdale.
Bike fit can make a huge difference as well.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jude
Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling
3
11-13-11 07:02 PM
stapfam
Fifty Plus (50+)
1
06-08-11 11:35 AM