TRP HY/RD oil leak
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
TRP HY/RD oil leak
Made a novice mistake of applying the brake when the front wheel was removed. The old brake pads were still there so I assume it acted as a safety feature. But as I was changing the pad I felt a tiny bit of oil on the brakeset. Not much as I don't see any drip on my rim or the floor. Lets just say as a comparison, I prick my finger with a needle and a bit of blood comes out, that's how I felt with the oil. But I am left wondering if that is enough to create a small pocket of air in the reservoir. After everything fixed up, there is a little rubbing of the disc. Is that a possibility of pocket of air not making the pads fully open? or is that just normal for a new set of pad that breaking in can solve?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
Not possible to say with any certainty via the internet.
#3
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 259
Bikes: 2000 Santana Sovereign SE; 2005 Co-Motion Speedster; Kona Kilauea with various dorky commuter accoutrements; Mercier Kilo TT fixie; Burley Fladbed trailer for groceries, bags of cement and the like.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 85 Times
in
41 Posts
1) Does your brake lever feel a little mushier than before? Or pull in farther? That was a sign of air in my HY/RD, which I bled out.
2) Did you press the pads/pistons back into the calipers before putting the wheel back? They might rub if you didn't push them back before working the lever.
2) Did you press the pads/pistons back into the calipers before putting the wheel back? They might rub if you didn't push them back before working the lever.
#4
Newbie
Thread Starter
1) Does your brake lever feel a little mushier than before? Or pull in farther? That was a sign of air in my HY/RD, which I bled out.
2) Did you press the pads/pistons back into the calipers before putting the wheel back? They might rub if you didn't push them back before working the lever.
2) Did you press the pads/pistons back into the calipers before putting the wheel back? They might rub if you didn't push them back before working the lever.
#5
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 259
Bikes: 2000 Santana Sovereign SE; 2005 Co-Motion Speedster; Kona Kilauea with various dorky commuter accoutrements; Mercier Kilo TT fixie; Burley Fladbed trailer for groceries, bags of cement and the like.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 85 Times
in
41 Posts
I also regularly re-align my HY/RD, even after I take the wheel off. A rub seems to occur even when it shouldn't.
It's super-easy to do and seems to correct any rubbing.
The procedure TRP calls for, roughly:
-Turn the thumbwheel to lock the cable clamp, loosen the cable bolt, pull the cable tight, tighten the cable bolt, then unlock the thumbscrew.
-Loosen the two bolts holding the caliper on, hold in the brake lever so it clamps down on the rotor (or just push the piston plunger in with your thumb) and centers the pads, then tighten.
I find this doesn't always center the pads--still some rub--in which case I loosen the bolts just a little, center it while eyballing the slivers of light coming through past the pads until it's even, then tighten.
That usually gets rid of rub, unless the rotor is out of true.
It's super-easy to do and seems to correct any rubbing.
The procedure TRP calls for, roughly:
-Turn the thumbwheel to lock the cable clamp, loosen the cable bolt, pull the cable tight, tighten the cable bolt, then unlock the thumbscrew.
-Loosen the two bolts holding the caliper on, hold in the brake lever so it clamps down on the rotor (or just push the piston plunger in with your thumb) and centers the pads, then tighten.
I find this doesn't always center the pads--still some rub--in which case I loosen the bolts just a little, center it while eyballing the slivers of light coming through past the pads until it's even, then tighten.
That usually gets rid of rub, unless the rotor is out of true.