Pretty worn Trek 970, how to build?
#1
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Pretty worn Trek 970, how to build?
I've done the drop bar, I've done the upright, and even a flat bar for a time... what's next? The main thing I'd like to replace is the fork, I think it came with a sunlite fork on there. I know all the more common options like surly troll, carver, soma, dimension, and ofcourse sunlite. The sunlite isn't terrible feeling, decent weight, and really almost kinda resembles the original "Big Fork" that would have come on it. But I feel like this frame deserves something nicer. I'll see if the co-op has an original one hanging around. I do really like the look of the surly long haul/ pack rat looking forks with the lugs, feel like it'd look good with this frame. But the A2C is like 376 or something on those, probably not a good match. Any one have different ideas? Hope it's not against all that is C&V, but I'd even entertain the idea of a front disc brake setup.
As for the frame itself, maybe repaint the top tube chainstays and lower seat stays...or just get it powder coated. Leaving it be is always an option I know, but that's not the point of this one. Biggest damage is that pretty sizeable ding right above that horrible chain suck rash. Likely not hurting anything but I'd like to address it somehow if I'm going to paint. Any input or ideas welcome! Thanks guys!
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#2
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I've done the drop bar, I've done the upright, and even a flat bar for a time... what's next? The main thing I'd like to replace is the fork, I think it came with a sunlite fork on there. I know all the more common options like surly troll, carver, soma, dimension, and ofcourse sunlite. The sunlite isn't terrible feeling, decent weight, and really almost kinda resembles the original "Big Fork" that would have come on it. But I feel like this frame deserves something nicer. I'll see if the co-op has an original one hanging around. I do really like the look of the surly long haul/ pack rat looking forks with the lugs, feel like it'd look good with this frame. But the A2C is like 376 or something on those, probably not a good match. Any one have different ideas? Hope it's not against all that is C&V, but I'd even entertain the idea of a front disc brake setup.
As for the frame itself, maybe repaint the top tube chainstays and lower seat stays...or just get it powder coated. Leaving it be is always an option I know, but that's not the point of this one. Biggest damage is that pretty sizeable ding right above that horrible chain suck rash. Likely not hurting anything but I'd like to address it somehow if I'm going to paint. Any input or ideas welcome! Thanks guys!
Regarding that chainstay gouge...in the back of my mind, I sometimes wonder if doing a fill braze negates the benefit by reintroducing heat stress into the tubing, especially if it is near a joint. I'd love for any frame builders and fellow torch-wielders to weigh in on such a question. Looks like a great, fun project! Keep up updated on where you go from here.
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#3
Junior Member
Two other fork options would be Stridsland or the Crust Clydesdale. As far as the build, you could always electrify it... Here's a beat-to-hell 950 that I plan to have rideable by Christmas.
This is my second electric conversion on a 90's mtb. The first one is a Haro Escape with a Pack Rat fork; in the new year I'll be swapping all its parts onto another 950 frame, and rebuilding the Haro with a Surly 1x1 fork and some kind of BMX/klunker bars.
This is my second electric conversion on a 90's mtb. The first one is a Haro Escape with a Pack Rat fork; in the new year I'll be swapping all its parts onto another 950 frame, and rebuilding the Haro with a Surly 1x1 fork and some kind of BMX/klunker bars.
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#5
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might be able to find a used fork for that bike on one of the on line sites (whatever) or at a LBS
#6
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I would have the frame restored , repainted and rust removed by a professional framebuilder, then upgrade the transmission with XT 780 T or XT 8000 components and install better wheels and tires as well. Costly but well worth the effort to give your trek a second life.
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#7
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Fork wise, I am still unsure. There's plenty of options out there, but I still have it in my head to do something a bit nicer than typical.
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#8
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I'll second the Clydesdale Fork. You wanted something different...
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Surly Corner Bar?
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#10
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RALEIGH_COMP - there is this fork with 410mm a to c length.
https://www.bikeman.com/CARV-FK410S-O1009-RK.html
Comes in 1" and 1 1/8".
That look a like a '92 model. The '92 990 came with a suspension fork, the geometry for the 990 and 970 are the same, and a 385mm a to c suspension fork is really small. Not saying a Tange Big Fork a to c isn't 385mm, but just saying that even if it is, the same geometry was used on suspension forks.
I would figure out if a 410mm fork would result in steering geometry I like and go with that if it looks good.
https://www.bikeman.com/CARV-FK410S-O1009-RK.html
Comes in 1" and 1 1/8".
That look a like a '92 model. The '92 990 came with a suspension fork, the geometry for the 990 and 970 are the same, and a 385mm a to c suspension fork is really small. Not saying a Tange Big Fork a to c isn't 385mm, but just saying that even if it is, the same geometry was used on suspension forks.
I would figure out if a 410mm fork would result in steering geometry I like and go with that if it looks good.
#11
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Thread Starter
RALEIGH_COMP - there is this fork with 410mm a to c length.
https://www.bikeman.com/CARV-FK410S-O1009-RK.html
Comes in 1" and 1 1/8".
That look a like a '92 model. The '92 990 came with a suspension fork, the geometry for the 990 and 970 are the same, and a 385mm a to c suspension fork is really small. Not saying a Tange Big Fork a to c isn't 385mm, but just saying that even if it is, the same geometry was used on suspension forks.
I would figure out if a 410mm fork would result in steering geometry I like and go with that if it looks good.
https://www.bikeman.com/CARV-FK410S-O1009-RK.html
Comes in 1" and 1 1/8".
That look a like a '92 model. The '92 990 came with a suspension fork, the geometry for the 990 and 970 are the same, and a 385mm a to c suspension fork is really small. Not saying a Tange Big Fork a to c isn't 385mm, but just saying that even if it is, the same geometry was used on suspension forks.
I would figure out if a 410mm fork would result in steering geometry I like and go with that if it looks good.
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#12
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I have been super curious about those bars! Depending on the fork, this could be a good option for sure.
I have thought about this, but it's such a nice light steel frame, be nice to keep it light up front too.
https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/som...=774#attr=1283
Something like that would be nice. 400 A2C is not terrible, nice fork crown, eyelets, decent tire clearance. Could that work? I think the fork is designed for 700c but lots of modern forks and frames are 650b/700c interchangeable. 26inch too?
I'll second the Clydesdale Fork. You wanted something different...
https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/som...=774#attr=1283
Something like that would be nice. 400 A2C is not terrible, nice fork crown, eyelets, decent tire clearance. Could that work? I think the fork is designed for 700c but lots of modern forks and frames are 650b/700c interchangeable. 26inch too?
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#13
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@RALEIGH_COMP You could use a 26" wheel in that fork, but you'd have to use a disc brake, which is heavier but doable.
#14
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I put bullhorn-like extensions on my Ritchey mountain bike bars 30 years ago when I bought the bike, and I have been absolutely delighted with the combination of the extensions and the 4-finger motorcycle-style Shimano brake levers. I also cut about 3 com off of each end of the Ritchey bars.
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#15
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Hiring a pro frame builder sounds expensive . But either way this frame will get a second life! I think I'm going to get it powder coated. Maybe I'll have it sandblasted first and then attempt to repair those dings with some powder coat friendly filler stuff.
Fork wise, I am still unsure. There's plenty of options out there, but I still have it in my head to do something a bit nicer than typical.
Fork wise, I am still unsure. There's plenty of options out there, but I still have it in my head to do something a bit nicer than typical.
I stripped and repainted (rattle can with rattle can 2K clearcoat) my '95 Trek 990 and was/am happy with how it looked. But the paint will chip pretty easily - and that's annoying. I probably put on too thick of a paint coat. So I've looked at powder coat as a likely option for the next project.
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