MIN 

I tried to toe in the arm using a crescent wrench to marginal success. Should I toe it more or is there anything else to be done to curb the squealing? I've sanded the original pads which did not really help.

How was the Competition different than the Racer brakeset of the comparable vintage? I think my bike is a '72 if anyone can confirm.

Grand Bois

Change the pads! They tend to dry out after 37 years.

Competitions have brass bushings and unobtainable bridge wires.

MIN 

dirtdrop you know a good source for replacement pads? all i can find are canti-spuded pads nearby.

Grand Bois

Mafac and Campy NR/SR share the same width and bevel angle, so you can use Kool Stop replacement pads made for Campy in your Mafac holders. Harris Cyclery has them, among others. You can also find Scott Mathauser pads. I have both and I can't tell any difference. The pads are a tad too short, but they work fine.

I've seen new copies of Mafac pads on eBay, but I haven't tried them.

I'm using Kool Stop cantilever pads in two of my Mafac-equipped bikes. The look isn't authentic, but they sure work well!



Note the home made bridge wire. I make them by soldering short pieces of brass tubing to scrap derailer cable. I tried leaving a pigtail for a quick release, but I didn't like the look.

MIN 

thanks for the the info... it's not apparent to me if my pads can be removed from the holders. is there a trick to getting it out or if it's possible at all with what I have?

i see that velo-orange carries replacement pads for mafac in the kool stop compound.

delicious

hi MIN

got the vintage bike bug?

MIN 

hey bro - too much carbon fiber in my bicycle diet.

KRhea

Yo Min, how bout a full view shot of that "red beauty"!

I think I may have one or two of those French riders myself...


KRhea

MIN 

KRhea, I saw some of your old posts when I was reading up on the LeJeune I got. It's got a lot of work into it so far a bit more to come. But I'm redoing my drivetrain. I am looking into a Sturmey Archer 3-sp conversion or maybe a 8-sp Alfine rear wheel. Schmidt front wheel with low-mounted light. Basically like Sheldon Brown's Raleigh International.

I'm running it ghetto singlespeed now because the original Simplex RD was bent and unusable.

I was gonna share pix when complete but here's how it sits so far.

white_feather

I have a few Mafac pieces in a box I was given. I would love to make a singlespeed like that LeJuene. Is it difficult to do?

Grand Bois

They slide out. I'm surprised that you couldn't figure that out. It's apparent that you have the skills to remove parts. I hope you keep those parts in case you ever want to turn it back into a nice bicycle.

noglider 

You can replace the whole shoe at about the same cost and MUCH less trouble.

https://harriscyclery.net/product-lis...ductSearch.y=0

Look at the smooth-studded models.

And show us a picture of the brake pads from above, so we can see the angle of toe-in.

Grand Bois

Did you read the entire thread or are you ignoring me?

Charles Wahl

I may be hallucinating, but I believe that I read somewhere that the Kool Stop pads made for "2000 Campy" are longer than the classic Campy replacements, and will also fit the Mafac holders. YMMV

noglider 

Not ignoring you. I have a different suggestion. Yours is to replace the pads. Mine is to replace the entire shoes, since it's so much easier.

Perhaps I didn't state it clearly before. Is it clearer now?

Grand Bois

I even posted a picture of my Peugeot with cantilever Kool Stops. As I said, they don't look authentic but they work well.

Oldpeddaller

Hi dirtdrop, I just found out the bridge wires for my Mafac Competitions are missing. Do you drill a hole through the brass tubing from side to side, pass the gear cable through and then solder the centre to hold it in place, one for each end? Or have I got totally the wrong idea?

Charles Wahl

I think that he simply passes the cable through the tubing (tinning first?) and then solders cable to tube.

I'd like to know what Mr Dirtdrop uses for an iron for that. And what solder/flux.

Grand Bois

That is correct. You can see the end of the tube in the picture. I use a small butane torch and some Nokorode paste flux that I inherited from my grandfather 40 years ago. The solder has an acid core and is real lead, not the antimony they sell now. I've experimented with stainless cable and silver solder without any luck, but I haven't given up. I misplaced my piece of tubing and all of the hobby shops around here have gone out of business.

noglider 

dirtdrop, you led me to look up a word today! antimony

Charles Wahl

Yikes! Let me know what size(s) you need and I'll pick some up at the local stationery/art store, which supports the architecture students at the university.

Thanks for the soldering info.

Oldpeddaller

Thanks dirtdrop, hope you don't mind if I copy your idea! I've got all the kit except for the tubing - but I think I might have some old generator tubes from defunct Coleman lamps somewhere in my shed. Have to have a look and if so, measure the diameter to see if they will fit.

dbarnblatt@usa.

It looks like there are brake cable braze-ons on the top tube if I am not mistaken... if so there would not be the need to zip-tie the cable and housing to the top tube.