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How to remove downtube shifters prior to frame painting

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How to remove downtube shifters prior to frame painting

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Old 12-29-23, 04:19 PM
  #1  
tastewar
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How to remove downtube shifters prior to frame painting

Older Cannondale frame. Have removed everything from the frame except:
  • pump peg
  • top tube cable housing guides
  • maybe some parts of the downtube shifters??
So we have removed most of the shifter mechs, but, there appears to be a plastic piece that is curved to fit around the tube on one side, and provide a flat surface for the shifter to mount on. The bosses themselves are, I assume, brazed or welded on, and are not a candidate for removal. But it would be nice to get these raimaining bits off if possible/advisable. Below is a pic of the shifter in its current state. Question is about the black part. Some attempts at getting behind it with a putty knife have proven unsuccessful, but we didn't want to force anything.

Any advice on that?

What about the funky plastic pump peg? Cable guides? We removed one, which seemed like it was held in place with a couple of plastic pegs that were molded in. Are there replacements for those? For the pump peg? I assume not, but hoping it doesn't hurt to ask :-)

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Old 12-29-23, 04:43 PM
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Shine a light into the boss and look for a bolt or screw head.

Vitus frames of a similar era used bosses screwed and glued together. They fairly often came unstuck, more so after the introduction of Shimano Indexed Shifting, with the indexed down tube shifters perhaps causing more load to the boss.

If the Cannondale bosses are screwed I’d proceed slowly and carefully - once the bolt/screw head is wrecked drilling them out would probably become necessary…
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Old 12-29-23, 08:32 PM
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I would mask the shaft and just paint the rest to match the frame.

There's a good chance these are screwed and glued and not meant to be removed and put back on. They are getting hard to find as replacements.

Last edited by Kontact; 12-29-23 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 12-29-23, 08:56 PM
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They are meant to be removed for painting.
Use an X-Acto knife to carefully pry off the thinner outside piece- note orientation, take a camera picture Then unscrew the threaded metal part- lefty loosy. The rest just comes out. Keep all small,parts safely bagged for future use.
The pump peg unscrews, left loosy.
The top tube cable guide pegs should not be removed until the fork and headset are off. Then carefully press them down into the top tube using an awl and remove them by shaking the frame with the head tube down until they fall out onto the newspaper that you have thoughtfully placed on the floor so as not to lose them.
The cable hanger can be removed but sadly not replaced.
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Old 12-29-23, 09:27 PM
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Old 12-30-23, 03:18 PM
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Correct.
But other versions were not meant to be removed, so the below advice applies to this frame, not necessarily others.
Originally Posted by rccardr
They are meant to be removed for painting.
Use an X-Acto knife to carefully pry off the thinner outside piece- note orientation, take a camera picture Then unscrew the threaded metal part- lefty loosy. The rest just comes out. Keep all small,parts safely bagged for future use.
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Old 12-31-23, 01:58 PM
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If you happen to break or lose any of the top tube cable guides, there's folks out there 3D-printing replacements.
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Old 12-31-23, 03:47 PM
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And Bob's yer uncle.

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Old 12-31-23, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
If you happen to break or lose any of the top tube cable guides, there's folks out there 3D-printing replacements.
I'd suggest going with the guides made from aluminum vs. 3D printed. They're nearly double the price, but they look 10x better.
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Old 01-03-24, 12:14 PM
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The thin blade and careful prying will get the job done. Been there many times. Just be patient and go slow. Sooner or later, they will release.
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