badger1

And hi in return! Whiterock is lovely; know it well. You are right about the countryside round here; it does have its own appeal. H_ll, I even like Toronto (many don't). But ... I was born on VI (Cowichan Valley), grew up in a home perched over the water; uni in Vancouver first, then spent 20+ years living/more uni/working in Victoria before taking a post out here.

I'm afraid that the south West Coast landscape, climate, and culture is just too ingrained in me; I miss it terribly, despite regular visits and stays. Any luck, be back for good within a few years. Would very much like to do out my time back home. Bonus: cycling on the Island is fantastic.

BiciMan

A beaut, for sure. I ride only matte black or white these days. Just getting to look at it each day has to be inspiring, and then there is the ride! Enjoy it, fortunate one.

Jagamov

No love for Matte Green?

The black is super nice though!

banjaboy

Colour means zippo to me but I do happen to like this camo color

BiciMan

I'm sure I'd love matte green. This Cannondale Synapse tempted me a few years ago, and probably still would: https://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/Bike...x?item=1229990 (But, this is the hybrid forum...)

justbob

So today I drove the 100 miles (one way) to see a Sirrus x 4.0. Nice bike but large, as others cautioned, was too big. I have put my name on their list to buy a medium. Their dealer access to Specialized indicated April or May possible delivery. But cautioned could be the end of 2021 due to the way things are now.

Skiddz

Hello Grizz - you explained your fix in one of your earlier posts, but I wondered if you uploaded the video yet?

mscenic

Hi can anyone help me? Looking to put a Sram Rival 1 crankset on my 2020 Sirrus Comp Carbon X. Does anyone know what BB i will need? Many thanks!

badger1

SRAM GXP (for standard threaded shell).

mscenic

Nice one thanks

mscenic

Has anyone gone from a 42t to a 40t chainring? Is there a great deal of difference? Thanks

GrizzledBastard

I've been absent and lagging on getting my video posted 'cuz I've been riding a lot and hammering on the core training trying to get back in the game. So, just for you, I uploaded the "Director's Cut" to get what I video'd out there. I didn't show the install of the mesh with the bottom bracket out as I originally installed but I think you can get it in there through the space in the access port as I show in the vid.


Regarding the BB, like Badger said, threaded GXP (assuming Rival runs that diameter) for 68mm BSA 1.37" BB shell.
I bought the Praxis crankset with a 40T rather then the 42T. You can run the OEM 42T on it since it's 3 bolt direct mount which is kinda-sorta a common standard. You just need to pay attention to offsets and chainline. The 40T works perfect for me in the hilly terrain single track riding and is perfectly ample for my road riding as well. It's sort of dependent on your terrain and topography. The more hills, the more useful that lower tooth count seems to be. So, to answer your question "Is it a great deal of difference?", I'd say no, not a great deal but a welcome change in ratio for the hilly terrain and seems to come with no noticeable top end penalty.

mscenic

Many thanks! I think i'm going for a 40t Praxis if i can find one.

Jagamov

As everyone has said, SRAM GXP BB. I have the Force 1 Cranks w/ GXP BB (Apex 1's before that) and everything works perfectly.

Also, I went from a 40 tooth to a 38 on my Roll. Can't say I noticed any real difference. You'll pedal slightly faster in the same gears. So keep that in mind if you like how it feels now.

N0_1_KAREZ

So I originally ended up here because I was searching for an answer about 650b rims and tires. Saw the typical it’s somewhere in the thread responses to someone else asking. After 41 pages (it’s on page 41) I found it. (Yes I started from the beginning) Now my issue is that this site won’t let me quote the original post in a reply to it because I have to have 10 post before sharing pictures.

Anywho, I picked up a 2020? Sirius x 4.0, I’d share a picture but it’s at the LBS at the moment, about 4 months ago. It is the best/nicest bicycle I have ever owned and I love it.

edit: post about 650b set up was from 4/19/2020 ...... 19/04/2020 for you folks outside the US

timgriffin2

I think I finally have my fitting dialed in on the Sirrus 3.0. It took some trial and error - seat forward, seat back, seat up, work on tilt, seat down, grips rotated a bit. The last couple of rides have been a pleasure. Now I have to figure out that faint but irritating intermittent squeak...

Way2Slow

Crazy how some minor tweaks make a difference.

Skiddz

Excellent - thank you informative video! My fishing pole material arrived yesterday...to be installed sometime in the next couple of weeks...I'll report back once done.

Thx!

GrizzledBastard

I'm curious and hopeful you can squeeze it in there through the access in the BB Shell. Otherwise, you'll need to pull the BB out....which is pretty quick and easy if that danged main crank nut cooperates.

I added another farkle to mine. Being a pretty hard-core MTB'r...or Empty Beer as it may, I've been running dropper posts on my MTB bikes ever since they came out quite a few years back. Single-tracking the Sirrus X 5.0 down the chunky trails had me really missing that. Getting the seat out of the way for more aggressive and controlled down-hilling and tight maneuvering is made easy with one if these gadgets. Kind Shock Suspension happens to be my favorite version that I've run extensively and have the means to fully rebuild where others need to go back to the factory if not the trash bin when they start underperforming or break. Like any suspension-type component, they need service occasionally.

So, KS is the only simple lever actuated hydraulic 27.2 seatpost I could come up with currently. Since the Sirrus can't accommodate a third internal cable routing and I wasn't about to zip-tie a cable on my frame like I have seen some do nor did I want a remote lever on the handlebar that's necessary for the cable actuated models, I bought the uber-simple lever option with 100mm of drop which is more than enough for this bike.

Here's a couple pics to show fully extended and fully compressed and it has unlimited adjustment in between. Weight isn't too bad since it's an uncomplicated lever activation. I just left my factory seat mounted to my S-Works CG-R carbon post and put another Specialized Body Geometry Power Arc saddle on the dropper. This way, to switch between, I just pull the post and insert the new one to a pre-marked position on the stem and torque it to 55N-m.

LazyMike

Sorry to bring up an old post but is the steering stem on this Sirrus Elite Carbon easy to replace with something that doesn't have an integrated top cap?

Thanks,
Mike

Jagamov

Hi Mike. The stem cap screws into the future shock, but the stem itself is a standard stem. If you saw my posts, I have replaced the stem with one that is shorter and with a bit more rise. You just have to use the original cap to screw back into the shock.

LazyMike

There's no cap.

Jagamov

Well holy crap....my apologies. I didn’t realize the regular Sirrus that year didn’t have the future shock. Not sure what the heck that stem is...Specialized and their stupid parts.

Let me ask this, what would happen if you took the stem and the spacers off? Could you use round spacers on the steerer tube and a regular stem? Is the steerer tube still round and 1 1/8? Install a star nut (if needed) and you’re good?

LazyMike

This model bike is for sale in my area but I'm not going to be interested in it unless the handlebar stem is easily changed, so I don't own the bike (yet) but would like to know ahead of time.

Thanks,
Mike

hokiefyd 

It looks like the cap is simply integral to the stem itself. So you'd pop the stem on top of the steer tube with the appropriate number of spacers to keep it off the top of the steer tube, then you'd run the center bolt down enough to preload the bearings, then you'd tighten the side bolts.

The only real benefit to the standard "through hole" design of most stems is you can lower them on the steer tube and stack spacers above them. You can't do that with Specialized's stem, but it looks like there's also no reason you couldn't replace the stock stem with any other stem of your choosing (including a "through hole" stem that uses a separate cap). Most stems do not come with a top cap, so you'd need to buy that separately.