Latest find--1972 Chrome Schwinn Paramount
08-20-23, 10:23 AM
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Latest find--1972 Chrome Schwinn Paramount
Hello friends, very excited to share my latest find with the group. A chrome Paramount has been on my bucket list for years and I am thrilled to finally have one in the collection. This is the P15-9 (Deluxe) touring model with a serial number that begins with F 72, indicating a June of 1972 manufacturing date. I bought it from the brother of the original owner and it has been sitting for 40 years—everything looks original except for the rear derailleur, which should be a Campy Gran Turismo—the SunTour that is on it is functional but the Campy would certainly look better—I will make that decision later on. All of the decals (with the exception the Reynolds sticker) are beyond hope—not sure if I will replace them or just leave it plain—I really like the way it looks as it sits. I have cleaned chrome tips on my other restorations with Quick-Glo which has always worked well but I have never dealt with anything on this scale—any suggestions on cleaning and polishing the frame would be welcome—I want it shining like a new dime!. The saddle is completely dried out but not brittle, I will do my best to save it. This is my first Schwinn and my first time with Campy components—any advice from the group would be most appreciated.
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08-20-23, 10:45 AM
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Nice bike!
I tried oxalic acid for the first time recently and was amazed at how well it worked on small chromed Schwinn bits, such as that rusty cable stop hanger on the front brake. Like magic. Getting these chrome bits to shine really adds to the overall presentation of the bike.
Results were more mixed for unchromed bits - the rust comes off, but the surface doesn't look particularly great and then they get discolored and crusty if you leave them in the bath too long.
Don't recommend OA bath for whole assemblies such as skewers, because the different parts react differently and need different amounts of time in the bath. Skewer heads came out great though, so if you are willing to disassemble the small assemblies then you can go to town on the chrome parts.
I had heard that OA is bad for aluminum so I didn't try it.
I tried oxalic acid for the first time recently and was amazed at how well it worked on small chromed Schwinn bits, such as that rusty cable stop hanger on the front brake. Like magic. Getting these chrome bits to shine really adds to the overall presentation of the bike.
Results were more mixed for unchromed bits - the rust comes off, but the surface doesn't look particularly great and then they get discolored and crusty if you leave them in the bath too long.
Don't recommend OA bath for whole assemblies such as skewers, because the different parts react differently and need different amounts of time in the bath. Skewer heads came out great though, so if you are willing to disassemble the small assemblies then you can go to town on the chrome parts.
I had heard that OA is bad for aluminum so I didn't try it.
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08-20-23, 10:50 AM
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Congratulations! Great wormhole to go down!!!
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08-20-23, 11:06 AM
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Welcome to the club, the Campy GT is a boat anchor, I would put a Rally on it which can be hard to come by. They had Crane's later but I think they don't look right on these.
Interesting that it has DT shifters with the triple, maybe special order, changed or not used with the GT. This needs Schwinn branded/approved SunTour bar cons IMO.
I always carefully scrub or brass brush off the loose rust then soak with PB Blaster or WD-40 to knock the rust own as much as possible, clean/strip with brake or carb clean then soak small parts in Evaporust and clean the frame with Turtle wax rust remover and chrome polish then Quick Glo, Simichrome, etc.
Interesting that it has DT shifters with the triple, maybe special order, changed or not used with the GT. This needs Schwinn branded/approved SunTour bar cons IMO.
I always carefully scrub or brass brush off the loose rust then soak with PB Blaster or WD-40 to knock the rust own as much as possible, clean/strip with brake or carb clean then soak small parts in Evaporust and clean the frame with Turtle wax rust remover and chrome polish then Quick Glo, Simichrome, etc.
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08-20-23, 11:12 AM
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Marvelous score. Congrats.
I don't see why Quick-Glo wouldn't do a great job on the frame. My guess is that you could do it with one can or less, but even if it takes two or three, that's a minimal investment.
Oh, and you may want to replace the front tire.
(How does that even happen to a tire?
)
I don't see why Quick-Glo wouldn't do a great job on the frame. My guess is that you could do it with one can or less, but even if it takes two or three, that's a minimal investment.
Oh, and you may want to replace the front tire.
(How does that even happen to a tire?)
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08-20-23, 11:35 AM
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Designed for 27”, but the 700c allows big tires and mudguards.
Early triple where a 42 was the (well, 41 can be squeezed) smallest chainring.
Early triple where a 42 was the (well, 41 can be squeezed) smallest chainring.
08-20-23, 11:39 AM
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08-20-23, 11:48 AM
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Gorgeous piece of history! Anybody make repro decals? Would be wonderful to be able to add some.
Enjoy that project.
Cheers,
Rick
Enjoy that project.
Cheers,
Rick
08-20-23, 11:58 AM
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-----
slightly surprised at rims
would have expected Weinmann wood-filled
perhaps wheels have been rebuilt?
our Paramount experts are sure to know
-----
slightly surprised at rims
would have expected Weinmann wood-filled
perhaps wheels have been rebuilt?
our Paramount experts are sure to know
-----
08-20-23, 11:59 AM
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08-20-23, 12:01 PM
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08-20-23, 12:25 PM
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08-20-23, 12:44 PM
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08-20-23, 03:21 PM
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Nice bike!
I tried oxalic acid for the first time recently and was amazed at how well it worked on small chromed Schwinn bits, such as that rusty cable stop hanger on the front brake. Like magic. Getting these chrome bits to shine really adds to the overall presentation of the bike.
Results were more mixed for unchromed bits - the rust comes off, but the surface doesn't look particularly great and then they get discolored and crusty if you leave them in the bath too long.
Don't recommend OA bath for whole assemblies such as skewers, because the different parts react differently and need different amounts of time in the bath. Skewer heads came out great though, so if you are willing to disassemble the small assemblies then you can go to town on the chrome parts.
I had heard that OA is bad for aluminum so I didn't try it.
I tried oxalic acid for the first time recently and was amazed at how well it worked on small chromed Schwinn bits, such as that rusty cable stop hanger on the front brake. Like magic. Getting these chrome bits to shine really adds to the overall presentation of the bike.
Results were more mixed for unchromed bits - the rust comes off, but the surface doesn't look particularly great and then they get discolored and crusty if you leave them in the bath too long.
Don't recommend OA bath for whole assemblies such as skewers, because the different parts react differently and need different amounts of time in the bath. Skewer heads came out great though, so if you are willing to disassemble the small assemblies then you can go to town on the chrome parts.
I had heard that OA is bad for aluminum so I didn't try it.
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08-20-23, 03:25 PM
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I don't think the oxalic acid damaged the steel, but if you allow it to reach the point of discoloration and crustiness then you have to scrape or scrub or polish it off, and you might as well just scrub off the rust.
08-20-23, 06:47 PM
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Congrats! I got my chrome 72 P19 earlier this year and couldn’t be happier. All the comments are useful and there’s no real best way. Go slow, take your time and enjoy the process. The results are worth it.
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Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
08-20-23, 07:30 PM
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Absolutely Beautiful! amazing! Old chrome bikes rule !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
08-20-23, 09:35 PM
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Marvelous score. Congrats.
I don't see why Quick-Glo wouldn't do a great job on the frame. My guess is that you could do it with one can or less, but even if it takes two or three, that's a minimal investment.
Oh, and you may want to replace the front tire. (How does that even happen to a tire?)
I don't see why Quick-Glo wouldn't do a great job on the frame. My guess is that you could do it with one can or less, but even if it takes two or three, that's a minimal investment.
Oh, and you may want to replace the front tire.
(How does that even happen to a tire?)
.
08-20-23, 10:11 PM
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I'm sure the Suntour derailleur shifts nicely, but IMO a Paramount should have Campagnolo. One option is a Nuovo Record with a Soma cage. This is visually identical to an early-model Rally, it shifts a wide gear range with no problem, and the Soma cage is easy to find and not too expensive.
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08-21-23, 10:58 AM
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I have a chrome '73 P12 and a Yellow '71 P15. The P15's are great (The P12's are also, but that's a different topic). For the chrome any chrome polish should work. With the rust on chrome, I usually start with Aluminum foil crumpled up with some WD 40 sprayed on it then progress to polish. It works wonders.
My P15 came with 27" wheels, I believe that what was generally used, so the wheels may have been re-laced (or replaced) for the tubulars. I have two sets (OK maybe more) of wheels for the P15 so I mostly run tubulars but will with back to clinchers depending on my mood (or the ride).
This looks like it will clean pop really well. Have fun with it.
My P15 came with 27" wheels, I believe that what was generally used, so the wheels may have been re-laced (or replaced) for the tubulars. I have two sets (OK maybe more) of wheels for the P15 so I mostly run tubulars but will with back to clinchers depending on my mood (or the ride).
This looks like it will clean pop really well. Have fun with it.
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08-21-23, 11:30 AM
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Use Oxalic Acid
OR
Anything abrasive.
Do not use both at the same time on the same spot.
I have had excellent luck using oxalic acid on a small craft paintbrush, and doing spot by spot. Rinse with baking soda.
OR
Anything abrasive.
Do not use both at the same time on the same spot.
I have had excellent luck using oxalic acid on a small craft paintbrush, and doing spot by spot. Rinse with baking soda.
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08-21-23, 11:37 AM
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"In 1973, the Campagnolo Gran Turismo rear derailer was dropped in favor of the Schwinn Approved GT 300 LeTour - a re-badged Shimano Crane G.S. long-cage. This was not documented in the catalogs until 1974, but the change took place early enough that all-original 1973 models have appeared with the newer derailer as stock equipment, in addition to some '72s."
https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_schwi...nt_models.html
https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_schwi...nt_models.html
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08-21-23, 04:48 PM
#23
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I think you are probably right--the Rigida rims that are on it aren't listed in the literature as an option--the Campy hubs are there but I suspect they were re-laced onto the tubular rims.
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08-21-23, 05:58 PM
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thank you!
the red label marks them as early
would expect it to read "13-19" rather than the subsequent "13-20"
-----
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08-21-23, 06:59 PM
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Close up of the label--I am also very curious about the decals--the attached pic is all that survives of the "Schwinn Paramount" decal on the down tube--there was a bottle cage clamped to it protected by bar tape which saved this small bit. I am wondering if the decals had a tough time adhering to the chrome? Strange to me that they are in such bad shape.