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Replacement cup for a Sunshine 5345 hub

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Replacement cup for a Sunshine 5345 hub

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Old 03-02-24, 09:56 AM
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chuckybb
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Replacement cup for a Sunshine 5345 hub

I'm finally getting around to fixing up a Sunshine 5345 rear hub. This hub needs a cup to replace the original stamped cup that was wicked messed up. The inside diameter of the place where it fits is about 30mm. I'm not too sure if that is a standard size or if I need to seek-out a special cup. Any help will be appreciated.
P.S. Cup has been removed and all other parts look just fine.
My questions are: 1. Is that a standard size or do I need to seek-out a special cup?
2. Where might a cup like this be found?

Last edited by chuckybb; 03-02-24 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 03-02-24, 11:02 AM
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Mr. 66
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Probably better off replacing the hub.
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Old 03-02-24, 03:19 PM
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That hub looks as though the right-hand cone was loose and precessed inwards.
Such a failure puts tremendous pressure on the cup (that's why it broke) and the shell might well be bent.
Did the balls come out in pieces?
I'd get a new(er) hub.
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Old 03-02-24, 03:57 PM
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in the photo it appears there be no space behind the cup

hope this is not the case

such a design makes removal of old cup more difficult

when there is space behind it is a simple matter to knock old cup out with an offset drift punch

if you can get the cup out the forum is sure to have a member with one of these hubs whose shell is damaged snoozing in a parts box somewhere

they could knock the cup out and send it to you or they could send you the whole hub and leave the cup extraction to you


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Last edited by juvela; 03-02-24 at 05:38 PM. Reason: spellin'
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Old 03-02-24, 04:03 PM
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Heat will expand the hubshell, perhaps enough for the cup to fall out.

Then just a matter of sourcing another cup from a discarded wheel perhaps.

I wouldn't expect a built wheel to run perfectly true after replacement of a pressed bearing cup, but as this one is just a bare hubshell, I would vote for replacing the hub.

EDIT:
I don't think that the force causing a loose drive-side axle cone to tighten is actual precession, because the axle doesn't turn.
But the bearing drag definitely tends to cause this sort of tightening and I've seen it a few times before with same sort of radial cracks in the driveside cup.

Last edited by dddd; 03-02-24 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 03-03-24, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by dddd
I don't think that the force causing a loose drive-side axle cone to tighten is actual precession, because the axle doesn't turn.
It doesn't turn relative to the frame.
But that does not matter - all that matters is that one part (the cone) turn *relative to* the other (the cup).
The axle is merely a pivot on which they both turn.
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Old 03-03-24, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by oneclick
It doesn't turn relative to the frame.
But that does not matter - all that matters is that one part (the cone) turn *relative to* the other (the cup).
The axle is merely a pivot on which they both turn.
As far as the cone self-tightening, you're right that it doesn't matter, because no precession is involved.

Precession of threaded parts occurs when one threaded part rolls around inside of another, because a rotating radial force vector is forcing the threads into closer static/stationary contact at one moving location around the threads.
But in the case of rear axles and cones, the radial force vector doesn't rotate, rather the ever-increasing torque is being applied to the cone by bearing drag.
The threads are slipping past each other instead of rolling.
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Old 03-04-24, 10:59 PM
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I had the same thing happen to me on a Normandy Sport rear hub. I was thinking "damn that thing is sure grinding a lot". Opened it up and it looked like the entire hub body had just cracked apart, or at least that's what I thought. Maybe it was just the cup, but I binned it anyway. It was a cheap hub and I had ridden on it for years. The Sunshine is on about the same level. It's probably cheaper and easier just to get an entire hub rather than mess around with cups.
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