Single aero mount —> index dt shifters... successful?
08-27-18, 11:12 AM
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Single aero mount —> index dt shifters... successful?
There are a few threads on BF that cover the topic of using an adapter to allow the use of indexed downtube shifters on a single-bolt aero mount, like the thread here:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...hifters-2.html
However, I have not been able to find confirmation that anyone has gotten it to work. Can anybody say that they have gotten this to work, either with the Gipiemme adapter or with something else that did not need to be individually fabricated (as I saw with user @nazcalines)?
I ask because I have reached out to Problem Solvers, and they don’t give the impression that they’ve been approached with this one before.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...hifters-2.html
However, I have not been able to find confirmation that anyone has gotten it to work. Can anybody say that they have gotten this to work, either with the Gipiemme adapter or with something else that did not need to be individually fabricated (as I saw with user @nazcalines)?
I ask because I have reached out to Problem Solvers, and they don’t give the impression that they’ve been approached with this one before.
08-27-18, 12:37 PM
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Calling @RobbieTunes.
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08-27-18, 08:24 PM
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Which aero mount exactly do you have? My partner's bike also has an aero mount, but it's for suntour shifters which can be easily modified with just a file to take standard indexed levers.
08-28-18, 02:22 PM
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I thought I had a good pic, but I don’t, and don’t have access until later. Not sure how valuable a new pic would be, though, given what I detailed above...
08-28-18, 02:29 PM
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I have used a aero mount (B-mount?) Shimano indexed DA shifters (was a 6s, I made it a 7s) with internal cable routing - and finally made it work well. Took a few iterations, though. Just cabling it up and going with it would never stay in tune. I ended up running (IIRC) full length housing through both the DT and seat stay to keep the indexing crisp.
Pic as proof:
Conclusion: yes it can be done, but, I wouldn't recommend it. Getting the housing correct and installed was quite the PITA. Now, if you ignored or didn't have internal cable routing, it would probably be simpler.
Pic as proof:
Conclusion: yes it can be done, but, I wouldn't recommend it. Getting the housing correct and installed was quite the PITA. Now, if you ignored or didn't have internal cable routing, it would probably be simpler.
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Last edited by Ex Pres; 08-28-18 at 02:39 PM.
08-30-18, 10:38 AM
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Thank you for checking... I’ve been poking around, and I think I may be able to get it to work with the Gipiemme adapter and flat washer/spacers. I will give it a shot and report back here if I can get it to work - just need to buy the parts...
09-01-18, 04:49 PM
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I just saw this thread.
It can be done. The trick is to get backing plates to mount on the shifter mount. On some bikes, there is a follow-up trick to route the ^*&(^&*^% cables (I won't mention any brands...Klein).
Many of the older mounts were intended for friction shifting, so if you use a backing plate, be it flat or concave, you have to be able to prevent it from rotating when you shift. Do that, and if the backing plates mount, the shifters will to. In the case of a Klein, I had to modify the backing plates first, then drill and insert set screws to really prevent the backing plates from rotating.
Note the set screw installed. Even though this L shifter is friction, it still needs the indexing backing plate.
Note the set screw had to be in a different place on the R shifter, so as not to interfere with the L. Also note the tight route that the cable takes. Many an unkind word accompanied the routing of those cables. No inner guides, and the exit hole is the same size as that. 12 hours to route the cables.
Doc (rccardr) gave me a hard time about the finish mismatch. After messing up one plate, and hours of effort, I tossed my pride into the dumpster and said "no mas."
Still, a clean case of it.
On a Suntour piggyback mount, I'd think something similar could be done. Cable routing after that, well, that's individual per bike.
If I did this on a Suntour piggyback mount, for example, on a Lotus Classic or Centurion Semi-Pro, for example, I'd run a double cable guide on top of the DT down at the BB shell. Campy made the best one. You'd route the cables "over" the BB shell. All frames that I know of with piggy-back shifters mounted the RD cable run on top of the R chainstay.
On a Klein, well, the cable goes through the frame. Shoot me if I ever build another.
Also had to solve the problem of being able to "wind up" a 7700 or 7800 L shifter the 270 degrees it takes to mount correctly. Figured that out, too.
No one ever asks about the work I had to do to make it this way. Of course, if they did, they'd walk away after about 30 minutes of explanation.
Plenty of room for that lever to shift a triple. It's on the granny ring for the photo.
Look close, you'll see shifter liner in there. It stays. Note how I had to widen the cable groove on the L shifter, to get the cable to sit in near the backing plates and make a smooth transition into the frame. That's not a hole in the shifter body, it's a layer of steel under the aluminum shifter. Ok, so it IS a hole, sort of. It works. I didn't mean for the world to see it's private parts...
It can be done. The trick is to get backing plates to mount on the shifter mount. On some bikes, there is a follow-up trick to route the ^*&(^&*^% cables (I won't mention any brands...Klein).
Many of the older mounts were intended for friction shifting, so if you use a backing plate, be it flat or concave, you have to be able to prevent it from rotating when you shift. Do that, and if the backing plates mount, the shifters will to. In the case of a Klein, I had to modify the backing plates first, then drill and insert set screws to really prevent the backing plates from rotating.
Note the set screw installed. Even though this L shifter is friction, it still needs the indexing backing plate.Note the set screw had to be in a different place on the R shifter, so as not to interfere with the L. Also note the tight route that the cable takes. Many an unkind word accompanied the routing of those cables. No inner guides, and the exit hole is the same size as that. 12 hours to route the cables. Doc (rccardr) gave me a hard time about the finish mismatch. After messing up one plate, and hours of effort, I tossed my pride into the dumpster and said "no mas."Still, a clean case of it.On a Suntour piggyback mount, I'd think something similar could be done. Cable routing after that, well, that's individual per bike.
If I did this on a Suntour piggyback mount, for example, on a Lotus Classic or Centurion Semi-Pro, for example, I'd run a double cable guide on top of the DT down at the BB shell. Campy made the best one. You'd route the cables "over" the BB shell. All frames that I know of with piggy-back shifters mounted the RD cable run on top of the R chainstay.
On a Klein, well, the cable goes through the frame. Shoot me if I ever build another.
Also had to solve the problem of being able to "wind up" a 7700 or 7800 L shifter the 270 degrees it takes to mount correctly. Figured that out, too.
No one ever asks about the work I had to do to make it this way. Of course, if they did, they'd walk away after about 30 minutes of explanation.
Plenty of room for that lever to shift a triple. It's on the granny ring for the photo.
Look close, you'll see shifter liner in there. It stays. Note how I had to widen the cable groove on the L shifter, to get the cable to sit in near the backing plates and make a smooth transition into the frame. That's not a hole in the shifter body, it's a layer of steel under the aluminum shifter. Ok, so it IS a hole, sort of. It works. I didn't mean for the world to see it's private parts...
Last edited by RobbieTunes; 09-01-18 at 04:54 PM.
09-01-18, 06:00 PM
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Wow, @RobbieTunes, thank you for walking through that step by step. I’m not sure I want to untertake the same, but it looks like the work you did paid off! I will let folks know if I can get it to work a different way...
