How does the amount of seat stem showing affect ride.
#1
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How does the amount of seat stem showing affect ride.
I like to have as little seat stem showing above the seat tube as possible, maybe 2 or 3". I look at bikes like the Thorn Exxp etc and wonder just what having so much seat stem showing does to the ride.
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The amount of stem showing does virtually nothing for ride comfort or handling. The bike pictured is designed with a sloping top tube for 26" wheels. This makes for a more compact frame (saves a bit of weight) but needs a longer seatpost for a given rider than a traditional frame with a level top tube and 700C wheels.
The longer seatpost might flex a bit more and reduce road shock a tiny bit, but the effect would almost certainly be negligible.
The longer seatpost might flex a bit more and reduce road shock a tiny bit, but the effect would almost certainly be negligible.
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The amount of stem showing does virtually nothing for ride comfort or handling. The bike pictured is designed with a sloping top tube for 26" wheels. This makes for a more compact frame (saves a bit of weight) but needs a longer seatpost for a given rider than a traditional frame with a level top tube and 700C wheels.
The longer seatpost might flex a bit more and reduce road shock a tiny bit, but the effect would almost certainly be negligible.
The longer seatpost might flex a bit more and reduce road shock a tiny bit, but the effect would almost certainly be negligible.
#4
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I prefer a smallish frame and an aggressive riding position much like that of a road racer for touring, so I may be a bit out of sync with much of the touring community.
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I would say that having only 2" or 3" post showing indicates to me a frame that is too large for the rider. All of mine have at least 6" of post showing. Mountain bikes, of course, have more.
The saddle, by the way, is supposed to support you but it shouldn't be like a chair that you sit on.
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Lots of seat post showing is only a problem with smaller diameter posts.
I would say that having only 2" or 3" post showing indicates to me a frame that is too large for the rider. All of mine have at least 6" of post showing. Mountain bikes, of course, have more.
The saddle, by the way, is supposed to support you but it shouldn't be like a chair that you sit on.
I would say that having only 2" or 3" post showing indicates to me a frame that is too large for the rider. All of mine have at least 6" of post showing. Mountain bikes, of course, have more.
The saddle, by the way, is supposed to support you but it shouldn't be like a chair that you sit on.
What make are they?
Steel or aluminum?
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The distance between the top tube and the saddle isn't something to worry about (other than strength of seatpost).
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Some might look at the flip side of the coin and claim that lots of seat post showing is indicative of a bike that's too small.
In the old days (70's), they used to say that a properly fitted road bike would have a "fistful" of seatpost showing, but hey, if your fist is 6", the women must love ya!
I noticed in the pics that the handlebars were also considerably below seat level on some of those bikes. Perhaps you just prefer a lower, more aggressive riding position? Most tourers like to have the bars level with or above the seat height. I know I do, and I'm showing about 4" of post.
In the old days (70's), they used to say that a properly fitted road bike would have a "fistful" of seatpost showing, but hey, if your fist is 6", the women must love ya!
I noticed in the pics that the handlebars were also considerably below seat level on some of those bikes. Perhaps you just prefer a lower, more aggressive riding position? Most tourers like to have the bars level with or above the seat height. I know I do, and I'm showing about 4" of post.
Last edited by theranman; 12-20-07 at 03:33 PM.
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The bike is only too small if the distance req'd between the saddle and bars cannot be achieved without a stem longer than 110-120mm and/or a set back seat post. In general terms the only thing lots of seat post demonstrates is that you've got a lot of stand over clearance - the frame could be too small, too big or just right, having a lot of seat post isn't going to be the determining factor.
#11
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I noticed in the pics that the handlebars were also considerably below seat level on some of those bikes. Perhaps you just prefer a lower, more aggressive riding position? Most tourers like to have the bars level with or above the seat height. I know I do, and I'm showing about 4" of post.
If you look at the bikes on the "Fully Loaded Touring Bicycles - On Tour" web page you will find that a not insignificant portion of folks there have the same preference. They aren't the majority, but they aren't a completely insignificant percentage either.
I think that if you are used to riding in an aggressive position and comfortable with it, then it makes sense to have your touring bike setup that way. It is efficient and comfortable unless you either aren't flexible enough or just haven't been conditioned to riding in that position.
Different strokes though...
https://www.pbase.com/canyonlands/fullyloaded
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Steel. Tubus Cargo on back, Tubus Tara on the front.
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Some might look at the flip side of the coin and claim that lots of seat post showing is indicative of a bike that's too small.
In the old days (70's), they used to say that a properly fitted road bike would have a "fistful" of seatpost showing, but hey, if your fist is 6", the women must love ya!
I noticed in the pics that the handlebars were also considerably below seat level on some of those bikes. Perhaps you just prefer a lower, more aggressive riding position? Most tourers like to have the bars level with or above the seat height. I know I do, and I'm showing about 4" of post.
In the old days (70's), they used to say that a properly fitted road bike would have a "fistful" of seatpost showing, but hey, if your fist is 6", the women must love ya!
I noticed in the pics that the handlebars were also considerably below seat level on some of those bikes. Perhaps you just prefer a lower, more aggressive riding position? Most tourers like to have the bars level with or above the seat height. I know I do, and I'm showing about 4" of post.
I think my bars are set kind of high. I use to run them lower but I just can't bend like that anymore.
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My new Sherpa has lots of post showing.
But it also has a sloping top tube. If your bike has a straight acroos top tube you will have 2 inches less of post visible over the sloping bikes.
But it also has a sloping top tube. If your bike has a straight acroos top tube you will have 2 inches less of post visible over the sloping bikes.
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Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
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Las Cruces. I built it up. I didn't buy it because it was a cross bike but because it was orange...i.e. not black or white
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cycco, two questions:
1. Do you find the "dale" at all uncomfortable or rough when she's not loaded down? I almost bought one in the late 90's but it beat me up so badly when not fully loaded, I decided against it. I was told that the ride has been improved upon over the last several years. And yes, I understand it is a dedicated tourer and it should be stiffer than other bikes when unloaded.
2. How much clearance do you have on that third bottle, is that a standard or full length bottle because it appears it could clip that front tire with a good bump? Or is a 1/2" as good as a mile?
BTW, nice stable of steeds
1. Do you find the "dale" at all uncomfortable or rough when she's not loaded down? I almost bought one in the late 90's but it beat me up so badly when not fully loaded, I decided against it. I was told that the ride has been improved upon over the last several years. And yes, I understand it is a dedicated tourer and it should be stiffer than other bikes when unloaded.
2. How much clearance do you have on that third bottle, is that a standard or full length bottle because it appears it could clip that front tire with a good bump? Or is a 1/2" as good as a mile?
BTW, nice stable of steeds
#20
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OK it should have been 3 or 4 inches showing, not 2 or 3. But I still have to say that 6" plus unrestrained lever arm seems as if it would vibrate like a tubing fork and apart form that the bike looks too small and, well, ugly- all out of proporton, but each to his own, the wonderful thing about cycling is that you can do it your own way.
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Once you've got the proper seat height and reach (position you're most comfortable in) dialed in, it really doesn't matter how much post is showing. As long as you have enough standover clearance, ride and enjoy.
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OK it should have been 3 or 4 inches showing, not 2 or 3. But I still have to say that 6" plus unrestrained lever arm seems as if it would vibrate like a tubing fork and apart form that the bike looks too small and, well, ugly- all out of proporton, but each to his own, the wonderful thing about cycling is that you can do it your own way.
I just got a Bike Friday Tikit so I'm not afraid of a little seat post showing....
Besides mtn bikers have had tons of exposed seat post for years and I have never heard of tuning fork like problems...
I've got bikes with next to no seat post showing to 7" on my Thorn to - well a lot on my Tikit...there is no noticeable difference once you are on the bike pedaling.
If you prefer the look of less seat post cool, but let's not make up problems that don't exist...
#23
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OK it should have been 3 or 4 inches showing, not 2 or 3. But I still have to say that 6" plus unrestrained lever arm seems as if it would vibrate like a tubing fork and apart form that the bike looks too small and, well, ugly- all out of proporton, but each to his own, the wonderful thing about cycling is that you can do it your own way.
Maybe it is because I was involved in racing before I was in touring. The better performance riders that I have ridden with/against all seemed to have what looked like a foot of seat tube showing and that may have affected my sense of aesthetics.
Now if we ignore aesthetics...
1. I think that small frames are stiffer.
2. You could never get the bars low enough to suit me with a frame as large as you prefer, but you can always get the bars higher with a different stem.
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Three things are important for comfort on a bike: saddle height, bar drop, and cockpit length. If those three things are dialed in with precision, the bike will be comfortable.
The best fitting road bikes for me have a saddle height of 30 inches (bottom bracket bolt to top of saddle), and a bar drop of one inch, and a cockpit length (from the back edge of the saddle to the front of the stem) of 31 1/2 inches.
So, all of my road bikes provide precisely the same fit and riding position, although on the size 56 there is about five or six inches of seat post showing, and on my size 62, there is only about two inches of seat post showing.
What does NOT work is the modern style of buying frames that are two, or three sizes too small, which results in having eight or nine inches of post showing, and a bar drop of four or five inches. That fit results in a "pretend racer" riding position that shifts the rider's weight forward onto the hands, resulting in pain in the hands, wrists, neck and shoulders.
Especially for touring, the riding position should be the cyclist's head up, to see surrounding traffic, and enjoy the scenery. For a touring cyclist to ride with his nose down against the front tire would be to miss the point of touring.
The best fitting road bikes for me have a saddle height of 30 inches (bottom bracket bolt to top of saddle), and a bar drop of one inch, and a cockpit length (from the back edge of the saddle to the front of the stem) of 31 1/2 inches.
So, all of my road bikes provide precisely the same fit and riding position, although on the size 56 there is about five or six inches of seat post showing, and on my size 62, there is only about two inches of seat post showing.
What does NOT work is the modern style of buying frames that are two, or three sizes too small, which results in having eight or nine inches of post showing, and a bar drop of four or five inches. That fit results in a "pretend racer" riding position that shifts the rider's weight forward onto the hands, resulting in pain in the hands, wrists, neck and shoulders.
Especially for touring, the riding position should be the cyclist's head up, to see surrounding traffic, and enjoy the scenery. For a touring cyclist to ride with his nose down against the front tire would be to miss the point of touring.
#25
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Three things are important for comfort on a bike: saddle height, bar drop, and cockpit length. If those three things are dialed in with precision, the bike will be comfortable.
The best fitting road bikes for me have a saddle height of 30 inches (bottom bracket bolt to top of saddle), and a bar drop of one inch, and a cockpit length (from the back edge of the saddle to the front of the stem) of 31 1/2 inches.
So, all of my road bikes provide precisely the same fit and riding position, although on the size 56 there is about five or six inches of seat post showing, and on my size 62, there is only about two inches of seat post showing.
What does NOT work is the modern style of buying frames that are two, or three sizes too small, which results in having eight or nine inches of post showing, and a bar drop of four or five inches. That fit results in a "pretend racer" riding position that shifts the rider's weight forward onto the hands, resulting in pain in the hands, wrists, neck and shoulders.
Especially for touring, the riding position should be the cyclist's head up, to see surrounding traffic, and enjoy the scenery. For a touring cyclist to ride with his nose down against the front tire would be to miss the point of touring.
The best fitting road bikes for me have a saddle height of 30 inches (bottom bracket bolt to top of saddle), and a bar drop of one inch, and a cockpit length (from the back edge of the saddle to the front of the stem) of 31 1/2 inches.
So, all of my road bikes provide precisely the same fit and riding position, although on the size 56 there is about five or six inches of seat post showing, and on my size 62, there is only about two inches of seat post showing.
What does NOT work is the modern style of buying frames that are two, or three sizes too small, which results in having eight or nine inches of post showing, and a bar drop of four or five inches. That fit results in a "pretend racer" riding position that shifts the rider's weight forward onto the hands, resulting in pain in the hands, wrists, neck and shoulders.
Especially for touring, the riding position should be the cyclist's head up, to see surrounding traffic, and enjoy the scenery. For a touring cyclist to ride with his nose down against the front tire would be to miss the point of touring.