tiger1964 

I found that any screwdriver wide enough to engage most/all of the width of that nut, was too thick to fit in the slot. So, I ended up not only grinding a notch/slot in the center of the blade, but also grinding it thinner. Worked great afterward, however!

bulgie 

Well you're done so it's too late for advice (and you don't need it anyway) but I thought I'd mention hollow-grinding, the best shape for screwdriver tips. Less tendency to cam-out, more grip at the bottom of the slot. Most often used by gunsmiths and clock makers (which I am not) but good any time the appearance of the screw matters, i.e. when you don't want upsets in the metal around the slot. You grind it on a wheel; almost any wheel diameter will do. Results in concave ground faces, and the driver sides are parallel at the business end rather than a wedge shape.

Here's a somewhat cartoonish and technically incorrect drawing, advertising some brand I never heard of, but I think it gets the idea across.


You can buy them already hollow-ground, but I just grind my own, on a bench grinder or on the contact wheels of the belt-sander. Don't heat-blue them — grind lightly with frequent dunks in water. Usually takes under a minute.

madpogue 

If I recall, Brave calls their ad / malware blocker "Shields Up". Look for a shield icon up near the top of the browser window somewhere. I think you can turn it on/off per site.

Chr0m0ly 

Looks like you had all the YouTube’s and diagrams available, but a trick I picked up was phone pictures.

take off a part, snap a picture, repeat.
then you have a photographic record of all your steps.
sometimes, If I’m really nervous I take two pictures per step, with the part on the assembly, and then again off the assembly.
it’s worked great for motorcycle carburetors.