Help identify right freewheel/cassette tool
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Help identify right freewheel/cassette tool
Hello, everybody!
Recently, I was donated a Trek 800 Mountain Track ('95-ish, I think) and I decided to grease some of the moving parts. After taking off the rear wheel I was horrified by the poor maintenance the previous owner did (read as: did not do) to this bike (swapped the original 6 speed freewheel for a a 7 speed DNP EPOCH but kept the 6 speed Shimano SL TY-31 thumb shifters, hub axle sticking out way too much to the left with barely and thread left on the drive side, stripped nuts, misinstalled spacers and so on).
What other tool(s) do I need in order to disassemble the freewheel (I want to rebuild it), apart from Park Tool's FR 1.3? It has this weird looking "lockring" on top of the inner ring (which you could unscrew with a pin spanner).
As I am out of town at the moment, here is a picture I found on the internet of the exact DNP freewheel the bike currently has. The lockring in question is the brass colored one with "LY-1007-KF EPOCH INDEX SPROCKETS [...]" text on it. Do I need a particular tool or does it unscrew with the smallest cog if I use 2 chain whips?
I am well aware this was an entry level bike back in the days and no amount of work and/or upgrades can turn it into the ultimate MTB experience, but it will make for a good learning experience.
Thank you!
PS: I cannot post pictures as I don't have 10 posts, yet. Will edit ASAP.
PPS: I added photos, yey!
Recently, I was donated a Trek 800 Mountain Track ('95-ish, I think) and I decided to grease some of the moving parts. After taking off the rear wheel I was horrified by the poor maintenance the previous owner did (read as: did not do) to this bike (swapped the original 6 speed freewheel for a a 7 speed DNP EPOCH but kept the 6 speed Shimano SL TY-31 thumb shifters, hub axle sticking out way too much to the left with barely and thread left on the drive side, stripped nuts, misinstalled spacers and so on).
What other tool(s) do I need in order to disassemble the freewheel (I want to rebuild it), apart from Park Tool's FR 1.3? It has this weird looking "lockring" on top of the inner ring (which you could unscrew with a pin spanner).
As I am out of town at the moment, here is a picture I found on the internet of the exact DNP freewheel the bike currently has. The lockring in question is the brass colored one with "LY-1007-KF EPOCH INDEX SPROCKETS [...]" text on it. Do I need a particular tool or does it unscrew with the smallest cog if I use 2 chain whips?
I am well aware this was an entry level bike back in the days and no amount of work and/or upgrades can turn it into the ultimate MTB experience, but it will make for a good learning experience.
Thank you!
PS: I cannot post pictures as I don't have 10 posts, yet. Will edit ASAP.
PPS: I added photos, yey!
Last edited by Venturiano; 05-13-22 at 10:37 AM. Reason: Added photos
#2
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#3
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Most times freewheels can be soaked in some type of cleaning agent, I use kerosene as it is what I usually have around the garage for my kerosene heater. If it sticks, give it a good soak as oil could be gummed up, maybe a few days to a week, then oil it up while spinning it by hand. Drop oil so it can work its way into the bearings, do this until it spins nice and quiet. Although I have taken them apart in the past, sometimes it is such a pain that its not worth it, if its dead, get another one. My experience has been the soaking/cleaning and re-oiling works just about all the time. Your call, good luck.
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Unfortunately it doesn't look like the freewheel I have. A couple more posts and I can post pictures. Yay!
Thank you all for your time and replies.
Thank you all for your time and replies.
#5
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#6
elcraft
Some Shimano freewheels require different rebuild style than say, a hub. In most ball bearings rebuilds, the bearings are stuck into the races with grease, and the cone surfaces are “inserted” into the bearings/ race to re assemble. On some of the Shimano freewheels, the outer bearings (those closest to the drop out) can be stuck into the race, but the inner bearings (those nearest the hub flange) seem to load better if they are stuck to the cone surface of the inner free wheel body and then lowered into the cog half of the freewheel.
This has been the case for me, but I defer to Pastor Bob’s encyclopedic knowledge of freewheels. His experience might be more model/ era specific than mine. Maillard /Atom free wheels and Suntour free wheels seem to assemble just fine by loading the bearings into the race surfaces, like a hub.
This has been the case for me, but I defer to Pastor Bob’s encyclopedic knowledge of freewheels. His experience might be more model/ era specific than mine. Maillard /Atom free wheels and Suntour free wheels seem to assemble just fine by loading the bearings into the race surfaces, like a hub.
#8
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