Drilling aluminum frame for bottle cage mounts
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Drilling aluminum frame for bottle cage mounts
Watched some videos on this, and they say to use aluminum rivnuts. Is there a reason you need those, or could you just use an m5 tap on holes direct into the frame?
Likes For alcjphil:
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Likes For Crankycrank:
#5
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 15,002
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6199 Post(s)
Liked 4,816 Times
in
3,323 Posts
I was happy enough just holding the cages on with hose clamps. No one ever commented on them, so many probably never noticed them.
I put a strip cut from a old inner tube between the clamp and the frame. When I took the bottle cages off years later when I got rid of the bike, the paint was still in good condition.
Not all cages will work well with hose clamps.
If you do drill into the seat tube, make certain it will be below the seat post.
I put a strip cut from a old inner tube between the clamp and the frame. When I took the bottle cages off years later when I got rid of the bike, the paint was still in good condition.
Not all cages will work well with hose clamps.
If you do drill into the seat tube, make certain it will be below the seat post.
Last edited by Iride01; 08-04-23 at 08:04 AM.
Likes For Iride01:
#6
aged to perfection
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,820
Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 840 Post(s)
Liked 1,263 Times
in
667 Posts
the only thing I can think of is something like a drywall anchor that expands to fit the hole tightly as the bolt goes in.
and use some JB Weld to ensure it is locked in.
I am pretty sure I have seen hardware like that somewhere
Otherwise I don't know what to suggest
/markp
and use some JB Weld to ensure it is locked in.
I am pretty sure I have seen hardware like that somewhere
Otherwise I don't know what to suggest
/markp
#7
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,629
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3891 Post(s)
Liked 6,491 Times
in
3,213 Posts
Likes For SurferRosa:
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,100
Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1401 Post(s)
Liked 1,886 Times
in
1,085 Posts
recommend first to consider other options including water bottle cage adapters
SKS ... Zefal ... Granite Design ... Velo Orange ... Topeak (?) ...
SKS ... Zefal ... Granite Design ... Velo Orange ... Topeak (?) ...
Likes For t2p:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South shore, L.I., NY
Posts: 6,890
Bikes: Flyxii FR322, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3243 Post(s)
Liked 2,091 Times
in
1,183 Posts
These Shimano cable housing stops are designed to screw onto a frame mounted bolt. There is nothing stopping you from drilling a hole on both sides of the downtube and using a long through bolt, thru the downtube plus nut on one side. I would not do this, but depends on age and value of frame. I drilled out/made larger the cable stop holes at the top of the downtube on my new Spec. Chisel so as to run the e-tube cable for a Di2 shifter system.
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Housi...19707293&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Housi...19707293&psc=1
Likes For KerryIrons:
Likes For brave17:
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,378
Bikes: a couple
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 563 Post(s)
Liked 863 Times
in
456 Posts
Use whatever bottle cage kit is recommended above ^
#14
Generally bewildered
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times
in
251 Posts
the only thing I can think of is something like a drywall anchor that expands to fit the hole tightly as the bolt goes in.
and use some JB Weld to ensure it is locked in.
I am pretty sure I have seen hardware like that somewhere
Otherwise I don't know what to suggest
/markp
and use some JB Weld to ensure it is locked in.
I am pretty sure I have seen hardware like that somewhere
Otherwise I don't know what to suggest
/markp
A key goal is to spread out the stress rather than concentrating it in one point on the frame.
Last, a point about metal screws in sheet metal. Don't do this in your frame - it's likely too thin. But for other applicatipons, drill way undersize, and use a sharp punch to dimple the metal inward. Then install the screw. This gives you more metal to grab the screw and spreads the stress out to a larger area.
By drilling undersize, and using a needle punch to push a bit of metal to the back of the sheet, you are forming a bit of a "nut" behind the sheet. The picture below shows a very specialized screw that targets the same goal but without a punch. For this specialized fastener, you drill undersize and the ramp and thread pattern swages a nice set of threads in the metal.
Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 08-06-23 at 10:35 AM.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 5,383
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2490 Post(s)
Liked 2,960 Times
in
1,682 Posts
Use rivnuts. That's what they do at the factory for both aluminum and carbon frames.
Likes For Trakhak:
#17
Generally bewildered
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times
in
251 Posts
Maybe I was thinking of the cheap plastic anchors and you are aware of and had in mind beefier ones?
I do think rivet nuts of some brand are the purpose-designed product in this case.
If I'm being overly confrontational, sorry. In my defense, I'm an engineer. And I read stuff like "Carroll Smith's Nuts Bolts Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook" in my spare time.
Best,
Jim
#18
Junior Member
Two with regular metal bottle cages : one for a water bottle on rear of my seatpost and one for stove fuel under my down tube.
The third one mounts my Topeak Mountain Morph pump (and its holder) to the seat tube.
#19
Cantilever believer
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,572
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 537 Post(s)
Liked 1,846 Times
in
835 Posts
I have had M5x0.8 rivnuts on my Chicago Schwinn steel cruiser frame for over 30 years with no problems. They should work in thinner aluminum frames, although I have seen Al tubing wall failures where the rivnut had wobbled out or pulled through. But these are the exceptions and not the rule. And as noted above on the seat tube they will act as a bottom seat post stop, so plan accordingly.
__________________
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
#20
aged to perfection
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,820
Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 840 Post(s)
Liked 1,263 Times
in
667 Posts
I have seen an aerospace type thing that goes thru a hole and then expands out like an umbrella, giving the thing a large surface area inside the tube.
like a drywall anchor. Blind riv-nut maybe ? this will get you started, something like this. Check out McMaster-Carr or Aircraft Spruce and Specialty.
Threaded Insert Jack Nut Riv Nut Blind Nut 25 Pack #10-24x0.91' Insert Nut Blind Nuts Threaded Rivets Nut inserts Steel Threaded Rivet Blind Fastener Threaded Insert For Metal Super-deals-shop (dtidyhere.shop)
And if it were me I'd dip the thing in JB Weld, and then put it in the hole and tighten it down with the bottle cage attached and let dry.
this is a tricky problem to solve.
/markp
Last edited by mpetry912; 08-06-23 at 03:17 PM.
Likes For mpetry912:
#21
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: "Driftless" WI
Posts: 389
Bikes: 1972 Motobecane Grand Record, 2022 Kona Dew+
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 158 Post(s)
Liked 146 Times
in
107 Posts
I just hung a CF bottle holder on my '72 Motobecane with zipties. With a piece of old inner tube between it and (what remains of the original frame) paint it's solid enough to hold a full bottle & stay in place when I put the bottle back.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 5,383
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2490 Post(s)
Liked 2,960 Times
in
1,682 Posts
Having installed rivnuts in my days working in bike shops, seems like a trivial problem to me. As I said earlier, anyone can buy simple rivnut sets and install them. And no complicated tool is required - just a drill and the appropriate drill bit, a 5-mm bolt, a 5-mm nut, and a washer. See the video I linked to a few posts above this.
By the way, if anyone encounters a loose rivnut in an aluminum or carbon frame, the same tools and technique used to install the rivnut can and should be used to snug it up again. Just last year I walked a friend of mine through a rivnut repair on his Trek Roubaix.
Edit: as always for a job like this, measure repeatedly to confirm the correct placement and orientation of the holes before you drill.
By the way, if anyone encounters a loose rivnut in an aluminum or carbon frame, the same tools and technique used to install the rivnut can and should be used to snug it up again. Just last year I walked a friend of mine through a rivnut repair on his Trek Roubaix.
Edit: as always for a job like this, measure repeatedly to confirm the correct placement and orientation of the holes before you drill.
#23
Newbie
Thread Starter
Alright, 3 out of 4 rivnuts successfully installed. The question is will that be good enough. You can see in the photo (circled in red) the hole I couldn't get the 9/32" drill bit into, even with my right angle adapter. I did not want to try to drill at an angle. Unfortunately, the right angle adapter only takes the hex type drill bits, not standard ones, so I doubt I can find a shorter bit of the same size that would work. Don't think I'm going to go so far as buy a right angle drill.
I was able to get a smaller drill bit in that hole so that I could tap it directly for the m5 screw, and it seems to hold. I put a small washer behind the cage, just so it's somewhat matched in height and aesthetic to the rivnut.
This was a Trek FX frame that Trek deemed too small for two cages. The original downtube cage mounts were way too far down to allow for a seat tube cage, so I had to make 4 new holes altogether. But it works, holds two 20oz bottles without interference, can get them in and out without a problem. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it.
I was able to get a smaller drill bit in that hole so that I could tap it directly for the m5 screw, and it seems to hold. I put a small washer behind the cage, just so it's somewhat matched in height and aesthetic to the rivnut.
This was a Trek FX frame that Trek deemed too small for two cages. The original downtube cage mounts were way too far down to allow for a seat tube cage, so I had to make 4 new holes altogether. But it works, holds two 20oz bottles without interference, can get them in and out without a problem. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it.
#24
Newbie
Thread Starter
Update: was able to get the 4th hole drilled out by using a stepped drill bit with a 9/32 step. Was just short enough to get in there with the right angle adapter.