Stronglight BB Confusion
01-15-23, 11:29 AM
#26
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a) something is clearly not right there. as things sit cup might work loose with use or it may not be properly aligned if for example it were cross threaded.
b) removal will permit examination and measurement
c) if threads have been damaged one solution would be to ream and tap to Italian
d) Stronglight did not offer spindles for 70mm shells so they made the walls of their Italian dimension bottom bracket cups one mm thicker than others
e) in order to preserve the OEM chainline you would want to place a 1.0mm spacer behind the Italian dimension fixed cup prior to mounting
a) something is clearly not right there. as things sit cup might work loose with use or it may not be properly aligned if for example it were cross threaded.
b) removal will permit examination and measurement
c) if threads have been damaged one solution would be to ream and tap to Italian
d) Stronglight did not offer spindles for 70mm shells so they made the walls of their Italian dimension bottom bracket cups one mm thicker than others
e) in order to preserve the OEM chainline you would want to place a 1.0mm spacer behind the Italian dimension fixed cup prior to mounting
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
01-15-23, 11:36 AM
#27
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Yeah it measures 37.6mm so seems like a Stronglight. 38mm wrench was too big so going to try a 12 point socket
01-15-23, 11:40 AM
#29
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Oh no, that's one of the big reasons to be here - the amount of knowledge from the "BITD" contingent always amazes me.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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01-15-23, 03:05 PM
#30
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I got the offending cup out, scribed the threads clean with a right angle pick and then used an old French DS cup that I slotted for a chaser I used with anti seize, it worked great and the BB holds a French cup with full torque now.
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01-15-23, 03:11 PM
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01-15-23, 03:14 PM
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Exactly this, you gotta know what you don't know to be able to figure out how to know what you don't know.
01-17-23, 05:45 PM
#34
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I appreciate the encouragement and advice! I decided to try the Sheldon method and have run into an issue and I’m guessing I’m not the first person to encounter this. The bolt just keeps spinning and never catches. Any tips?
01-17-23, 06:20 PM
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01-17-23, 08:07 PM
#36
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not sure i'm going to be able to easily remove this bolt. i do have a before pic from the outside...
01-17-23, 10:20 PM
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@dukeofearl
So I can't see if you have lock washers on the inside, looks like no on the outside, the problem with them is they can gall the cup bearing surface but can also sometimes get the purchase too.
So I can't see if you have lock washers on the inside, looks like no on the outside, the problem with them is they can gall the cup bearing surface but can also sometimes get the purchase too.
01-18-23, 07:10 AM
#38
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@dukeofearl
So I can't see if you have lock washers on the inside, looks like no on the outside, the problem with them is they can gall the cup bearing surface but can also sometimes get the purchase too.
So I can't see if you have lock washers on the inside, looks like no on the outside, the problem with them is they can gall the cup bearing surface but can also sometimes get the purchase too.
01-18-23, 12:20 PM
#39
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The socket plan will hinge on being able to hang onto the frame without damaging it which is a challenge if the tool can't be clamped on somehow.
I applaud your patience as that is the only way through this with a good outcome, realize it is a pita and hope you get there.
01-18-23, 04:55 PM
#40
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thanks! rapidly losing patience over here. i have another bike to ride in the meantime but this is getting crazy. i will keep trying but may need to remove the sheldon bolt - which isn't going to be easy - and go at it with a dremel, very carefully. yikes. i think i can get a socket inside the bb if i remove the rivets holding on the serial number plate.
i wish i was 100% confident that it's english threaded. i'd feel slightly better if i knew for sure i was at least turning it the right way.
i wish i was 100% confident that it's english threaded. i'd feel slightly better if i knew for sure i was at least turning it the right way.
01-18-23, 08:09 PM
#41
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well look at that!
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01-18-23, 08:34 PM
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Bravo!
I suspected the lock washers were not down inside the cup and not biting into the cup inside the bearing track.
The question now is can you restore the BB threads, have a cup to use and will it work.
The cartridge BB's are the go to for this but it will still need good threads to work and lock the retaining rings in place.
I get right down close and scribe whatever threads are left with a right angle pick then chase with an old cup I slot with a small Dremel cutoff wheel or a sharp triangle file
I scribe from the inside working outward, going mm by mm, digging in as I go and have never failed to restore one.
I suspected the lock washers were not down inside the cup and not biting into the cup inside the bearing track.
The question now is can you restore the BB threads, have a cup to use and will it work.
The cartridge BB's are the go to for this but it will still need good threads to work and lock the retaining rings in place.
I get right down close and scribe whatever threads are left with a right angle pick then chase with an old cup I slot with a small Dremel cutoff wheel or a sharp triangle file
I scribe from the inside working outward, going mm by mm, digging in as I go and have never failed to restore one.
01-18-23, 08:45 PM
#43
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Bravo!
I suspected the lock washers were not down inside the cup and not biting into the cup inside the bearing track.
The question now is can you restore the BB threads, have a cup to use and will it work.
The cartridge BB's are the go to for this but it will still need good threads to work and lock the retaining rings in place.
I get right down close and scribe whatever threads are left with a right angle pick then chase with an old cup I slot with a small Dremel cutoff wheel or a sharp triangle file
I scribe from the inside working outward, going mm by mm, digging in as I go and have never failed to restore one.
I suspected the lock washers were not down inside the cup and not biting into the cup inside the bearing track.
The question now is can you restore the BB threads, have a cup to use and will it work.
The cartridge BB's are the go to for this but it will still need good threads to work and lock the retaining rings in place.
I get right down close and scribe whatever threads are left with a right angle pick then chase with an old cup I slot with a small Dremel cutoff wheel or a sharp triangle file
I scribe from the inside working outward, going mm by mm, digging in as I go and have never failed to restore one.
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01-20-23, 11:08 PM
#45
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I have a tool from Kingsbridge, I think, which is my last resort option. It clamps down on both faces of the cup and you turn the side that will tighten the tool in the direction you want it to go. It has a fine thread, so it cinches quite tightly against the cup. Most often, though, I will use a large adjustable wrench that I can tighten right down against the flats and I hold it in place with a collection of a bolt, spacers and washers, and a freewheel body that I use to hold the wrench from slipping out. The nice thing about using a freewheel body is that it can turn with the wrench, while being so large that it keeps the wrench from camming off. I also have a steel, solid-axle Shimano hub that I cut in half and which works great to hold a flat wrench against a fixed cup. These methods are only used if the cup won't loosen using standard tools and won't fit a Campy shop fixed cup tool. I should buy a VAR or a Park, but the other methods work and I only run into this type of problem a few times a year.
01-21-23, 08:18 AM
#46
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Other shop-quality versions of this tool were also available, e.g. from Zeus:
01-21-23, 09:59 AM
#47
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Mine is more similar to the Zeus one, but the idea is the same for all. There can be some slippage, and it can mark up the face of the cup a little, but it's pretty hard to get much of a view of any fixed cup once the crank is installed, so any marks don't show. The tool is tough enough that you can reef down as hard as you need to with large wrenches to get it tight enough that it stops slipping. Its outstanding feature is that it works with pretty much any fixed cup. The longer end goes through the BB shell. Once you have cinched it down, you put the wrench on the long end to remove French or Italian cups, or the short end to remove British or Swiss cups.
01-21-23, 11:20 AM
#48
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turned out to be left hand threaded after all (though it kind of looks rh when i eyeball it 😵💫
going to chase it with an english steel cup, i have one around here somewhere, just haven't found it yet. went for a cheap UN300 in case this all doesn't work out. if it does, i'll get something nicer when it wears out.
going to chase it with an english steel cup, i have one around here somewhere, just haven't found it yet. went for a cheap UN300 in case this all doesn't work out. if it does, i'll get something nicer when it wears out.
01-22-23, 12:28 PM
#49
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i think i'm in business. we'll see how it holds but feels good. thanks everyone!
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01-22-23, 02:47 PM
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So, I'm a bit confused here.
The fixed cup had the markings for being right hand threaded, but turned out to be left hand threaded.
Do I have that right?
The fixed cup had the markings for being right hand threaded, but turned out to be left hand threaded.
Do I have that right?