How to determine chain length without the old one for reference
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How to determine chain length without the old one for reference
Hello Friends, it's time to get my latest restoration back on the road, this is the first bike I have purchased without the old chain still with it. I have been searching for help on determining length but so far everything starts with "take the old chain....". Any advice on how to get this done would be most appreciated.
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I put the new chain on in big-big and cut the chain so that it will just safely run that gear ratio. You probably will never be in it but if you do get there you won't wreck your drive train.
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Big x Big + 1-2 links.
Also...It is highly recommended to clamp your bike in the stand by the seat post, not any of the frame tubes.
Also...It is highly recommended to clamp your bike in the stand by the seat post, not any of the frame tubes.
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I’ve landed on RJ The Bike Guy’s method for sizing a bike chain. I made the little widget from a coat hanger and have used it many times with no issue.
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I agree with the big-big method, but then also check the small-small to make certain that the RD doesn't run the chain on itself.
If it does, the capacity of the RD has been exceeded.
If it's exceeded you can reduce the difference between the front sprockets or the over all rear spread.
If it does, the capacity of the RD has been exceeded.
If it's exceeded you can reduce the difference between the front sprockets or the over all rear spread.
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I agree with the big-big method, but then also check the small-small to make certain that the RD doesn't run the chain on itself.
If it does, the capacity of the RD has been exceeded.
If it's exceeded you can reduce the difference between the front sprockets or the over all rear spread.
If it does, the capacity of the RD has been exceeded.
If it's exceeded you can reduce the difference between the front sprockets or the over all rear spread.
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The Park page mentioned used to have a formula, but last time I checked it was gone. It was (from memory)
2 * C + (cog+ring)/4 + 1
C is the chainstay length. Cog and ring are the big cog and chainring tooth counts. So, for 16.75-inch chainstays sound by 52h tooth ring and 28-tooth cog you get
2 * 16.75 + (28+52)/4 + 1 = 54.5
Rounding up gives you 55 inches. That always worked well for me.
2 * C + (cog+ring)/4 + 1
C is the chainstay length. Cog and ring are the big cog and chainring tooth counts. So, for 16.75-inch chainstays sound by 52h tooth ring and 28-tooth cog you get
2 * 16.75 + (28+52)/4 + 1 = 54.5
Rounding up gives you 55 inches. That always worked well for me.
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Maybe obvious, but hasn't been noted- if you use the big/big + 1 or 2 links method you do this bypassing the RD.
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Or you can go small to small with no chain drag at the rd, like that you can put a bigger freewheel if needed.
I do big to big if I know I'm at capacity of the rd/freewheel.
I do big to big if I know I'm at capacity of the rd/freewheel.
Last edited by Mr. 66; 02-15-23 at 09:55 AM.
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Here's Simplex's instructions: Simplex Prestige derailleur (637) - instructions (1st style) scan 1 (disraeligears.co.uk)
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The Park page mentioned used to have a formula, but last time I checked it was gone. It was (from memory)
2 * C + (cog+ring)/4 + 1
C is the chainstay length. Cog and ring are the big cog and chainring tooth counts. So, for 16.75-inch chainstays sound by 52h tooth ring and 28-tooth cog you get
2 * 16.75 + (28+52)/4 + 1 = 54.5
Rounding up gives you 55 inches. That always worked well for me.
2 * C + (cog+ring)/4 + 1
C is the chainstay length. Cog and ring are the big cog and chainring tooth counts. So, for 16.75-inch chainstays sound by 52h tooth ring and 28-tooth cog you get
2 * 16.75 + (28+52)/4 + 1 = 54.5
Rounding up gives you 55 inches. That always worked well for me.
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Here's Simplex's instructions: Simplex Prestige derailleur (637) - instructions (1st style) scan 1 (disraeligears.co.uk)
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Or you can keep all your gears and simply run a chain that goes slack and noisy in the small-small. That chain rub rarely does more that drive sensitive ears nuts and chip chainstay paint on bumpy descents (which you are probably using the big chainring fo anyway). A lot of us who run triples have been running slack small-smalls forever and I have no qualms about running that gear for a mile of flat between big time grades to spare myself two double shifts.
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God, this was so much easier back in the day with Shimano. No guessing, no formulas, no weird tools to pull the chain together. Just big ring, small cog, get the RD pulleys vertical. Worked every time. Not sure if the same method works with old school Campy or new Shimano....
Last edited by smd4; 02-16-23 at 07:20 AM.