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How to determine chain length without the old one for reference

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Old 02-14-23, 05:40 PM
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sfazio 
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How to determine chain length without the old one for reference

Hello Friends, it's time to get my latest restoration back on the road, this is the first bike I have purchased without the old chain still with it. I have been searching for help on determining length but so far everything starts with "take the old chain....". Any advice on how to get this done would be most appreciated.

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Old 02-14-23, 05:44 PM
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52telecaster
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I put the new chain on in big-big and cut the chain so that it will just safely run that gear ratio. You probably will never be in it but if you do get there you won't wreck your drive train.
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Old 02-14-23, 05:45 PM
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https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/...-length-sizing
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Old 02-14-23, 05:46 PM
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Big x Big + 1-2 links.

Also...It is highly recommended to clamp your bike in the stand by the seat post, not any of the frame tubes.
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Old 02-14-23, 06:01 PM
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I’ve landed on RJ The Bike Guy’s method for sizing a bike chain. I made the little widget from a coat hanger and have used it many times with no issue.

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Old 02-14-23, 08:28 PM
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I agree with the big-big method, but then also check the small-small to make certain that the RD doesn't run the chain on itself.
If it does, the capacity of the RD has been exceeded.
If it's exceeded you can reduce the difference between the front sprockets or the over all rear spread.
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Old 02-14-23, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuckk
I agree with the big-big method, but then also check the small-small to make certain that the RD doesn't run the chain on itself.
If it does, the capacity of the RD has been exceeded.
If it's exceeded you can reduce the difference between the front sprockets or the over all rear spread.
Or you can keep all your gears and simply run a chain that goes slack and noisy in the small-small. That chain rub rarely does more that drive sensitive ears nuts and chip chainstay paint on bumpy descents (which you are probably using the big chainring fo anyway). A lot of us who run triples have been running slack small-smalls forever and I have no qualms about running that gear for a mile of flat between big time grades to spare myself two double shifts.
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Old 02-15-23, 04:16 AM
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The Park page mentioned used to have a formula, but last time I checked it was gone. It was (from memory)

2 * C + (cog+ring)/4 + 1

C is the chainstay length. Cog and ring are the big cog and chainring tooth counts. So, for 16.75-inch chainstays sound by 52h tooth ring and 28-tooth cog you get

2 * 16.75 + (28+52)/4 + 1 = 54.5

Rounding up gives you 55 inches. That always worked well for me.
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Old 02-15-23, 04:30 AM
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I use big/big and add a link
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Old 02-15-23, 06:50 AM
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Maybe obvious, but hasn't been noted- if you use the big/big + 1 or 2 links method you do this bypassing the RD.
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Old 02-15-23, 09:52 AM
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Or you can go small to small with no chain drag at the rd, like that you can put a bigger freewheel if needed.

I do big to big if I know I'm at capacity of the rd/freewheel.

Last edited by Mr. 66; 02-15-23 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 02-15-23, 10:23 AM
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Here's Simplex's instructions: Simplex Prestige derailleur (637) - instructions (1st style) scan 1 (disraeligears.co.uk)
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Old 02-15-23, 06:56 PM
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Very helpful, thanks. I stopped watching in my initial search when they started with using the old chain for re-sizing, that's what I get for being impatient!
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Old 02-15-23, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by plonz
I’ve landed on RJ The Bike Guy’s method for sizing a bike chain. I made the little widget from a coat hanger and have used it many times with no issue.

I love his video's, thanks. He has helped me many times!!
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Old 02-15-23, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by smontanaro
The Park page mentioned used to have a formula, but last time I checked it was gone. It was (from memory)

2 * C + (cog+ring)/4 + 1

C is the chainstay length. Cog and ring are the big cog and chainring tooth counts. So, for 16.75-inch chainstays sound by 52h tooth ring and 28-tooth cog you get

2 * 16.75 + (28+52)/4 + 1 = 54.5

Rounding up gives you 55 inches. That always worked well for me.
From memory?? Very impressive!
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Old 02-15-23, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Brad L
Very cool, thanks for sharing!
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Old 02-15-23, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
Or you can keep all your gears and simply run a chain that goes slack and noisy in the small-small. That chain rub rarely does more that drive sensitive ears nuts and chip chainstay paint on bumpy descents (which you are probably using the big chainring fo anyway). A lot of us who run triples have been running slack small-smalls forever and I have no qualms about running that gear for a mile of flat between big time grades to spare myself two double shifts.
That's my approach as well.
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Old 02-15-23, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 52telecaster
I put the new chain on in big-big and cut the chain so that it will just safely run that gear ratio. You probably will never be in it but if you do get there you won't wreck your drive train.
This and I have the rear derailer at a 45 deg. angle in big/big.
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Old 02-16-23, 07:07 AM
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Great question
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Old 02-16-23, 07:17 AM
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God, this was so much easier back in the day with Shimano. No guessing, no formulas, no weird tools to pull the chain together. Just big ring, small cog, get the RD pulleys vertical. Worked every time. Not sure if the same method works with old school Campy or new Shimano....

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Old 02-16-23, 07:23 AM
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Big-Big + 2 links has always worked for me.
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