Replace Rim Brake Pads
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,551
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 980 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times
in
399 Posts
Might as well, now that you've got them off!
#4
Senior Member
If you don't replace them, at least check that hole in the glare area in the photo. May me something wedged in there. A piece of rock will scar you rim if not dug out.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 5,773
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 453 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times
in
87 Posts
One on the left, no not yet, one on the right, yes, which on the basis they are from the same caliper indicates a centering/setup issue. As noted, as they are off, no point in not replacing them, and getting them setup better when reinstalled
#7
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,519
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4355 Post(s)
Liked 3,994 Times
in
2,665 Posts
I would replace them with some high quality pads and shoes (separate is always better) from KoolStop or SwissStop. You might be able to replace just the pads here though they look like the old 600 one which while similar to replaceable ones might not have been (but I could be wrong don't quote and apologies in advance if I am off base). If you can do that that is always best, never buy molded stuff as it just doesn't give as great braking and they are kinda more expensive in the long term having a replaceable pad with a nice stiff shoe means a lot better braking, easier replacement and the pads are cheaper because you aren't paying more extra hardware or a shoe with it.
One of the best upgrades to your braking is always going to be the simple consumables, good stiff pads and good high quality ...Stop shoes and polished stainless steel cables (uncoated) with a good slick compressionless housing. New calipers and levers are always nice and will be an upgrade but honestly I think those consumables are actually the better upgrade for most folks.
One of the best upgrades to your braking is always going to be the simple consumables, good stiff pads and good high quality ...Stop shoes and polished stainless steel cables (uncoated) with a good slick compressionless housing. New calipers and levers are always nice and will be an upgrade but honestly I think those consumables are actually the better upgrade for most folks.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,905
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4806 Post(s)
Liked 3,928 Times
in
2,553 Posts
There's plenty of life left in those pads. But ... the proper vertical location on the brake arms has probably changed. The contact point at the rim tends to creep up and the shoe may contact the tire on most brakes. Cantilevers are the opposite. Those shoes come down and can slip under the rim. Leave those shoes on too long and the metal holder will contact the rim - drastically reducing braking power and scoring the rim. so, the big question - how cheap are you and how willing are you to take the occasional look and adjust the pads when needed? I used to consider throwing away pads with material left a sin. Now I replace ones like yours if I'm working on the bike and have new ones on hand. Got a box of half used. Very convenient for throwing together "new" rigs.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18376 Post(s)
Liked 4,511 Times
in
3,353 Posts
I usually grind my pads down until they're mighty thin.
Overall, you've probably only used about half of the accessible pad material.
There does appear to be quite a bit of wear on the rim, and I'd look at that closely.
If you continue using those pads, inspect carefully for trapped debris, then try to realign with where you took them off.
Overall, you've probably only used about half of the accessible pad material.
There does appear to be quite a bit of wear on the rim, and I'd look at that closely.
If you continue using those pads, inspect carefully for trapped debris, then try to realign with where you took them off.