How to get epoxy out of Vitus frame tubes?
11-08-22, 09:04 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
How to get epoxy out of Vitus frame tubes?
Had a BB joint come loose while doing some hill jams on the Vitus Carbone +.
Tubes look like carbon fiber, but it is just wrapping paper over Al tubes.
Before new 3M 4216 glue is used to glue back together the tubes should probably be cleaned up of old epoxy, right?
Anybody have a trick for doing this? thanks!
built an alignment jig before popping the top tube joint so the frame is straight during re-glue.
, the down tube joint was already loose, made an expander to apply pressure while heat gun was forcing air through the head tube, you have to get these joints pretty hot before they come loose, amazing how much pressure was needed to break the joint, i trust these frames a lot more after trying to take one apart,
heating the joint from the outside does not work that great as most of the air goes by the tube, and you might burn the carbon fiber wrap. forcing air thru the inside of the head tube works really well, and it takes about 1/10 th the time to get the joint hot enough to pop.
pipe goes over stuck seat post that we cut in two since we have to drill it out anyway, another pipe goes thru the head tube, wrapped with gorilla tape to shim it tight and protect the metal. drilled a hole thru the back fitting and seat post to insert dowel pin as expander was riding up the post due to tilt angle, 3/4" expander bolt is welded to the seat post fixture, sits inside other pipe with nut for applying pressure while heating.
Tubes look like carbon fiber, but it is just wrapping paper over Al tubes.
Before new 3M 4216 glue is used to glue back together the tubes should probably be cleaned up of old epoxy, right?
Anybody have a trick for doing this? thanks!
built an alignment jig before popping the top tube joint so the frame is straight during re-glue.
, the down tube joint was already loose, made an expander to apply pressure while heat gun was forcing air through the head tube, you have to get these joints pretty hot before they come loose, amazing how much pressure was needed to break the joint, i trust these frames a lot more after trying to take one apart,
heating the joint from the outside does not work that great as most of the air goes by the tube, and you might burn the carbon fiber wrap. forcing air thru the inside of the head tube works really well, and it takes about 1/10 th the time to get the joint hot enough to pop.
pipe goes over stuck seat post that we cut in two since we have to drill it out anyway, another pipe goes thru the head tube, wrapped with gorilla tape to shim it tight and protect the metal. drilled a hole thru the back fitting and seat post to insert dowel pin as expander was riding up the post due to tilt angle, 3/4" expander bolt is welded to the seat post fixture, sits inside other pipe with nut for applying pressure while heating.
Last edited by cjenrick; 11-08-22 at 09:11 PM.
11-08-22, 09:21 PM
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
wood block and hammer easily removed the loose BB joint,
probably just going to reglue the BB joint and top tube to head tube, cleaing up the epoxy from every lug would be a pain and i do not know how the rear triangle is put together. the head tube joint was still so strong that i do not think the there is a need to glue everything again, i must have had about 350 lbs of pressure on that sucker before it popped loose. and most of the joints are under compression so they will get loose enough to notice before they can pop loose. the down tube to BB is the only joint that is getting pulled on instead of pushed if you do a free body vector diagram. that joint takes the most stress from rocking up hills etc, so once we get that good, the bike should be plenty stiff, well as much as you could hope for on a bike like this. i was wondering what that creaking noise was climbing up redwood gulch, and now i know why the bike was a bit loose while descending.
probably just going to reglue the BB joint and top tube to head tube, cleaing up the epoxy from every lug would be a pain and i do not know how the rear triangle is put together. the head tube joint was still so strong that i do not think the there is a need to glue everything again, i must have had about 350 lbs of pressure on that sucker before it popped loose. and most of the joints are under compression so they will get loose enough to notice before they can pop loose. the down tube to BB is the only joint that is getting pulled on instead of pushed if you do a free body vector diagram. that joint takes the most stress from rocking up hills etc, so once we get that good, the bike should be plenty stiff, well as much as you could hope for on a bike like this. i was wondering what that creaking noise was climbing up redwood gulch, and now i know why the bike was a bit loose while descending.
Last edited by cjenrick; 11-08-22 at 09:30 PM.
11-09-22, 12:41 AM
#7
Full Member
For cleaning the joints, I'd use emery cloth instead of any chemical that might damage the frame materials. For insides of tubes I use emery cloth taped to a drill bit extender of about 1/2" diameter at the end. I use about 3 or 4 inches of emery cloth. I use gorilla tape to hold the end to the drill bit extender and use long enough emery cloth to more than cover the tape. I often use this for cleaning out rusty seat tubes on frames. The drill bit extender is long enough to reach the length of a seat post and strong enough to put plenty of pressure on the contact area.
11-09-22, 01:14 AM
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
sorry, 2216 not 4216
dp 420/460 is also good,
but the 2216 is flexible, which is what i think you would want at that particular joint,
if it loosens up, we will try the dp460 which is harder.
there is not much to see of the carbon wrap, you can feel the seem under the tube, otherwise it looks like a solid carbon tube.
thanks for the expander tip!
btw the jig has a hole that bolts to the seat post which is now chopped in half so we will have to shop for a mavic (laprade) or similar expander type post. and also a hole that the stem bolt passes through so we will install the fork before glueing, there are also mounts for the front fork dropouts which can be seen in the pics
as far as chemicals, the best bond occurs with the use of a solution that pickles the aluminum, it seems pretty harsh>
(upload failed)
https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...chbulletin.pdf
dp 420/460 is also good,
but the 2216 is flexible, which is what i think you would want at that particular joint,
if it loosens up, we will try the dp460 which is harder.
there is not much to see of the carbon wrap, you can feel the seem under the tube, otherwise it looks like a solid carbon tube.
thanks for the expander tip!
btw the jig has a hole that bolts to the seat post which is now chopped in half so we will have to shop for a mavic (laprade) or similar expander type post. and also a hole that the stem bolt passes through so we will install the fork before glueing, there are also mounts for the front fork dropouts which can be seen in the pics
as far as chemicals, the best bond occurs with the use of a solution that pickles the aluminum, it seems pretty harsh>
(upload failed)
https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...chbulletin.pdf
Last edited by cjenrick; 11-09-22 at 01:23 AM.
