Hack for removing a Hollow tech crank cap?
03-23-24, 08:58 AM
#1
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Hack for removing a Hollow tech crank cap?
I don't have the tool handy to remove this crank arm cap.
there must be a hack to get it off without the correct key.
anyone?
there must be a hack to get it off without the correct key.
anyone?
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03-23-24, 09:10 AM
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Push some modeling clay in there and shape the end into a cylinder so your can twist with your fingers. Let it harden. Though the last time I looked for modeling clay that would harden, I couldn't find any anywhere local.
Or get some epoxy wood filler from the big box building supply store and do the same. Might put a piece of the plastic bag that the store clerk put it in when you checked out between the epoxy and the cap.
Or go to the local bike shop and pay for the Park Tool that removes them. Unless you just want to take the whole bike and see if they'll loosen it for free with theirs.
I'm assuming you already tried to see if you could rotate it with just a punch or screwdriver hooked in one of the flutes.
Or get some epoxy wood filler from the big box building supply store and do the same. Might put a piece of the plastic bag that the store clerk put it in when you checked out between the epoxy and the cap.
Or go to the local bike shop and pay for the Park Tool that removes them. Unless you just want to take the whole bike and see if they'll loosen it for free with theirs.
I'm assuming you already tried to see if you could rotate it with just a punch or screwdriver hooked in one of the flutes.
03-23-24, 09:11 AM
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You want the tool. It's used to pre-load the crankset to hand-tight when reassembling.
That being said, you have to loosen the crankarm bolts before loosening the cap. It may come out by hand.
And the oppo when reassembling.
That being said, you have to loosen the crankarm bolts before loosening the cap. It may come out by hand.
And the oppo when reassembling.
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03-23-24, 09:52 AM
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That cap must not be tight. Tightening it with a tool will cause BB bearings wear!
That weak plastic cap does not retain the crank arm, it is there to preload the bearings before you tighten the two retaining bolts on the crank arm.
It is tightening the crank arm bolts that causes the cap to stick in its threads.
Loosen the crank arm bolts and the cap should come out with not much more than your thumb.
Barry
03-23-24, 10:37 AM
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Grease up the cap. Forcefully press in 5 min epoxy putty into the hole and leave enough pancaked out the top to give you a good grip to turn it out once it hardens.
Come on man... You know this...
Come on man... You know this...
...That cap must not be tight. Tightening it with a tool will cause BB bearings wear! That weak plastic cap does not retain the crank arm, it is there to preload the bearings before you tighten the two retaining bolts on the crank arm. It is tightening the crank arm bolts that causes the cap to stick in its threads. Loosen the crank arm bolts and the cap should come out with not much more than your thumb...
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03-23-24, 10:49 AM
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I find Amazon, free next day delivery or sometimes even same day, is a great hack. But otherwise can you find something square that fits well enough?
03-23-24, 11:35 AM
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Just to add a little to the above….
That cap must not be tight. Tightening it with a tool will cause BB bearings wear!
That weak plastic cap does not retain the crank arm, it is there to preload the bearings before you tighten the two retaining bolts on the crank arm.
It is tightening the crank arm bolts that causes the cap to stick in its threads.
Loosen the crank arm bolts and the cap should come out with not much more than your thumb.
Barry
That cap must not be tight. Tightening it with a tool will cause BB bearings wear!
That weak plastic cap does not retain the crank arm, it is there to preload the bearings before you tighten the two retaining bolts on the crank arm.
It is tightening the crank arm bolts that causes the cap to stick in its threads.
Loosen the crank arm bolts and the cap should come out with not much more than your thumb.
Barry
my Today project was not a permanent installation of the cranks but rather just to temporarily remove the LH arm so I could access something near the bottom bracket.
Understanding how it all works (i.e. that the cap doesn't actually hold anything in place) was the key.
Loosening the two bolts relieved the pressure on the cap and allowed me with piece of correctly sized metal (to span the cap) to remove the cap.
I have the correct tool in my shop, though it is 2 hours from here.
mission accomplished
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03-23-24, 11:54 AM
#10
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That splined interface is not unlike the splined interface of Shimano freewheels. I have all the correct freewheel tools, but have discovered (and actually used) a hex 13/16th nut will fit snugly, and work to remove the freewheel. So…look for a bolt with a hex head that fits in that splined interface. If you use two nuts on the bolt, that will give you something to put a wrench on. Otherwise, you’d just have to use visegrips or channel locks on the threads of the bolt. — Dan
03-23-24, 12:29 PM
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Could try a NPT pipe cap... pvc might lessen the chances of deforming stuff.
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03-23-24, 01:07 PM
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03-23-24, 02:35 PM
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I’ve used a pliers similar to this one, with pliers closed the nose fits nicely into the cap. I now do have the proper tool, though.
03-23-24, 04:13 PM
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03-23-24, 08:55 PM
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He got it out already.
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