Saline corrosion, or don't buy a bike near the ocean
09-03-15, 12:56 PM
#1
Cisalpinist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Holland
Posts: 5,557
Bikes: blue ones.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 16 Times
in
11 Posts
Saline corrosion, or don't buy a bike near the ocean
Picked this Kona up for a song near the beach, mainly for the cranks and D's, and possibly to turn the frame into a replacement of my creaky urban SSMTB. But yeah, I picked it up from a guy who lived just over the dunes near the North Sea, and now I have to deal with some badly stuck crank bolts, pedals and the like. Any tips, ocean dwelling C&V'ers?
foto 1 by Constanteyn Roelofs, on Flickr
foto 2 by Constanteyn Roelofs, on Flickr
Good thing I was going to throw the entire front end out, because it's all rust.
foto 1 by Constanteyn Roelofs, on Flickrfoto 2 by Constanteyn Roelofs, on FlickrGood thing I was going to throw the entire front end out, because it's all rust.
09-03-15, 01:37 PM
#2
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,798
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1393 Post(s)
Liked 1,325 Times
in
837 Posts
Penetrating oil/solvent is your friend, as is patience. I love living 1 km downwind of the Pacific Ocean, but do admit that it is hard to keep bicycle or automotive chrome in good shape -- fortunately, only the 1960 Capo has chrome stays and lugs, and the elements have not been kind.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
09-03-15, 05:13 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wherever
Posts: 16,748
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 132 Times
in
78 Posts
The environment is hostile. Frame of my truck is showing signs of deterioration and Toyota just replaced it two years ago. Harsh.
I keep my bikes indoors, and run dehumidifiers. But for corrosin or as a protectant, we have something here , C., called Salt Away. Mix in water and spray. Then rinse. I use it on my fly fishing gear, and even my wading boots. And kayak. A light acid, so I suspect anything that helps dissolve or neutralize the salts might help clean things up on the bike. Diluted Vinegar in a spray bottle might work.
I keep my bikes indoors, and run dehumidifiers. But for corrosin or as a protectant, we have something here , C., called Salt Away. Mix in water and spray. Then rinse. I use it on my fly fishing gear, and even my wading boots. And kayak. A light acid, so I suspect anything that helps dissolve or neutralize the salts might help clean things up on the bike. Diluted Vinegar in a spray bottle might work.
09-03-15, 05:25 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 720
Bikes: Road, mountain and track bikes and tandems.
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 282 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 18 Times
in
15 Posts
If it is not too late, I would recommend taking the stem off and sliding the forks out. The fork steer is likely raw steel, and I would recommend coating it with a liberal amount of grease, and then reinstalling it.
09-03-15, 08:53 PM
#6
Senior Member
WD40 is your friend. But lately, I've discovered diesel fuel works just as well. And, it's way cheaper. I've been filling a small plastic spray bottle (any plastic spray bottle designed for cleaning fluids) with diesel fuel. Place bike on a big piece of cardboard. Remove wheels & brake pads. Spray one side. Turn over spray the other side. Rusty stuff loosens up pretty quickly. Diesel doesn't seem to damage paint. Doesn't have really volatile fumes. Works pretty good for me.
09-04-15, 05:44 AM
#7
Cisalpinist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Holland
Posts: 5,557
Bikes: blue ones.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 16 Times
in
11 Posts
thanks for the tips, guys. I usually had good bikes as well, but this one was left outside for a while, so it seems. Better get to that WD-40, and start tracking down a nice Kona P2 fork.
09-04-15, 08:15 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: 700 Ft. above sea level.
Posts: 3,250
Bikes: More than there were awhile ago.
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 637 Post(s)
Liked 1,285 Times
in
610 Posts
Not sure what types of penetrating oils you have available over there, Marvel Mystery Oil work very well and if you can find it Kroil is one of the best. Diesel fuel/kerosene mixed 50/50 with automatic transmission fluid is very effective too.
__________________
".....distasteful and easily triggered."
".....distasteful and easily triggered."
09-04-15, 09:30 AM
#9
Friendship is Magic
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,984
Bikes: old ones
Mentioned: 304 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26419 Post(s)
Liked 10,380 Times
in
7,208 Posts
....ATF/acetone mixed 50-50. Use a plastic bottle that is marked as one of the plastics resistant to acetone (HDPE, PTFE)
__________________
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Velognome
Classic & Vintage
13
04-23-12 06:06 PM
Leopard_Wrasse
General Cycling Discussion
8
06-10-11 10:19 AM
