For the love of English 3 speeds...
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
Paul, can you expound? Firstly, what is the aforementioned "Sta-Tru 590 alloy front wheels?" Does this equate to what my tire size that says "26 x 1 3/8?" And will a said alloy rim work with my stock of 26" x 1 3/8" tires?
Also, if I'm understanding you, I would agree that alloy wheels from the '90s would be an appreciable betterment in performance. Especially if you care to eschew originality and save that (rolling) weight. So, if I'm getting your drift, why splurge on modern, new and expensive wheels for a rescued vintage (non-performance) ride if 1990's wheels/rims are available? Right? So, if I'm still correct in my reasoning here, what "modern" (1990's) alloy rims will fit my Raleigh/Robin/Herc/etc? IOWs, when I visit my local co-op, and the myriad wheel cache, what should I look for?
If I'm all-wet here, set me straight. Regardless, I will, as a rule, never think to replace those classic steel, original rims on my prizes, but I might, just maybe, experiment with myriad, and unoriginal projects be-damned.
Also, if I'm understanding you, I would agree that alloy wheels from the '90s would be an appreciable betterment in performance. Especially if you care to eschew originality and save that (rolling) weight. So, if I'm getting your drift, why splurge on modern, new and expensive wheels for a rescued vintage (non-performance) ride if 1990's wheels/rims are available? Right? So, if I'm still correct in my reasoning here, what "modern" (1990's) alloy rims will fit my Raleigh/Robin/Herc/etc? IOWs, when I visit my local co-op, and the myriad wheel cache, what should I look for?
If I'm all-wet here, set me straight. Regardless, I will, as a rule, never think to replace those classic steel, original rims on my prizes, but I might, just maybe, experiment with myriad, and unoriginal projects be-damned.
__________________
Inflate Hard
Inflate Hard
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660
Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times
in
17 Posts
Totally in agreement; it is very satisfying to get everything back together and working right. I especially feel this if I've done some cleaning at the same time.
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660
Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times
in
17 Posts
Paul, can you expound? Firstly, what is the aforementioned "Sta-Tru 590 alloy front wheels?" Does this equate to what my tire size that says "26 x 1 3/8?" And will a said alloy rim work with my stock of 26" x 1 3/8" tires?
Also, if I'm understanding you, I would agree that alloy wheels from the '90s would be an appreciable betterment in performance. Especially if you care to eschew originality and save that (rolling) weight. So, if I'm getting your drift, why splurge on modern, new and expensive wheels for a rescued vintage (non-performance) ride if 1990's wheels/rims are available? Right? So, if I'm still correct in my reasoning here, what "modern" (1990's) alloy rims will fit my Raleigh/Robin/Herc/etc? IOWs, when I visit my local co-op, and the myriad wheel cache, what should I look for?
If I'm all-wet here, set me straight. Regardless, I will, as a rule, never think to replace those classic steel, original rims on my prizes, but I might, just maybe, experiment with myriad, and unoriginal projects be-damned.
Also, if I'm understanding you, I would agree that alloy wheels from the '90s would be an appreciable betterment in performance. Especially if you care to eschew originality and save that (rolling) weight. So, if I'm getting your drift, why splurge on modern, new and expensive wheels for a rescued vintage (non-performance) ride if 1990's wheels/rims are available? Right? So, if I'm still correct in my reasoning here, what "modern" (1990's) alloy rims will fit my Raleigh/Robin/Herc/etc? IOWs, when I visit my local co-op, and the myriad wheel cache, what should I look for?
If I'm all-wet here, set me straight. Regardless, I will, as a rule, never think to replace those classic steel, original rims on my prizes, but I might, just maybe, experiment with myriad, and unoriginal projects be-damned.
The original steel rims on my Sports were so far gone they had to be replaced, I had no choice. To simplify I bought SunRingle's CR18s (alloy) in the exact replacement size. I don't remember what they cost in 2013, but although they weren't nothing, I wouldn't say they were expensive. And no spoke replacement was needed, except for one that was stubborn and broke. And at the LBS it was $10 to tighten and true each one. Performance wise are they better than the originals, if those had been in good shape? Not sure.
Now I have a '63 Rudge coming along. I haven't seen the bike yet except in photos but I think the rims are usable if not cosmetically perfect. I want it to be a scorcher, but it's too soon to have made all the little decisions. And as the bike wouldn't be a commuter, Panaracer's Col de la Vie tires are very tempting.
I'd just like to build something 3/4 as nice as some of the bikes I've seen in photos here.
Last edited by paulb_in_bkln; 04-14-18 at 07:45 AM.
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660
Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times
in
17 Posts
One reason the CR18s are liked is that in the EA-3/590 ISO (oy vay) size they are available in a polished finish that doesn't exactly mimic the chromed steel but at least keeps the spirit of the original.
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660
Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times
in
17 Posts
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,800
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 887 Post(s)
Liked 335 Times
in
225 Posts
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,446 Times
in
1,557 Posts
In my experience most English ladies' Sports-type bikes are either 19" or 23" and this one looks smaller rather than larger. I have one of each and they're pretty easy to differentiate. There may be 21s or 22s out there but I have not seen them.
Senior Member
Right now I'm partway through moving many of the parts from the 19" frame to the 21" frame. I can ride 21 and 23 happily enough. 19" is a less happy ride for me.
Anyway, here's a crude field guide to sizing
Main frame tubes:
I *think* the downtubes on the 21" & 23 are more nearly parallel than on the 19. It's hard to tell in pictures, but when you're looking right on one size the downtube ("displaced top tube?) is not quite parallel to the lower downtube. I believe on the 21 & 23 they are for all practical purposes parallel, but I could be wrong and maybe it changed from one year to another.
Head Tube:
The gap between the top & down tubes on the 19 is less than on the 21 or 23. The step-through 23 head tube appears to have the dimension of the men's 25. I haven't measured it, but the 21 and 23 may have similar displacements.
Seat Stays:
This is a pretty good tell. The 19" has maybe room for 4 or 5 fingers between the brake bridge and the seatpost bolt. The 21 has room for a couple more, but the 23 has stays above the bridge about the length of a fresh #2 pencil. Or if you prefer, it should accommodate a decently sized cabbage between the seat and the fender - with the seat all the way down.
What I measured at 23":
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
Thanks. Yes - Banjo Brothers Minnehaha barrel bag. I have a bunch of them because they're just the right balance of low-cost; compact size; and hauling capacity for a short ride. They look pretty nice and are easy to fit. This particular bike has the darkest shade of Raleigh green I have seen.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,176
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 857 Times
in
327 Posts
I'm not a huge fan of the older Sturmey coaster brakes. The TCW hubs do have the "neutral no brake" issue, though that can be avoided with careful adjustment. I think the bigger flaw for us today is the fact that the TCW relies heavily on a rather weak E-clip to hold the transmission on one side and the brake on the other. If you take apart the hub, you'll find the axle has a groove and the E-clip that rides in the groove. Also of concern is the fact that the braking power fluctuates based on which gear you're in.
If a TCW has been ridden hard or abused by slamming the hub into 3rd while applying the brake, you'll find the E-clip tears around the edges and jumps out of the axle groove. At best, this causes the hub to stop working in 3rd gear, but will still run in 1st and/or 2nd. At worst, it will lock the rear wheel. The solution is to partially disassemble the hub and get the E-clip back into place. Sometimes you can do that by only tearing-down the brake side of the hub.
In order to get 2, decent and working TCW hubs for a pair of bikes I rebuilt several years ago, I needed 4 TCW hubs, and then to assemble parts to make the best 2 hubs I could make.
On the plus side, the old coasters have smooth braking action and a relatively positive feel when applying pressure. I wouldn't ride a bike equipped solely with a TCW hub - I'd want a hand brake along with it.
If a TCW has been ridden hard or abused by slamming the hub into 3rd while applying the brake, you'll find the E-clip tears around the edges and jumps out of the axle groove. At best, this causes the hub to stop working in 3rd gear, but will still run in 1st and/or 2nd. At worst, it will lock the rear wheel. The solution is to partially disassemble the hub and get the E-clip back into place. Sometimes you can do that by only tearing-down the brake side of the hub.
In order to get 2, decent and working TCW hubs for a pair of bikes I rebuilt several years ago, I needed 4 TCW hubs, and then to assemble parts to make the best 2 hubs I could make.
On the plus side, the old coasters have smooth braking action and a relatively positive feel when applying pressure. I wouldn't ride a bike equipped solely with a TCW hub - I'd want a hand brake along with it.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Last edited by SirMike1983; 04-14-18 at 01:15 PM.
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,800
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 887 Post(s)
Liked 335 Times
in
225 Posts
I am a fan of the S3C. As a tinkerer of all bikes (speeds of 1, 2, 3, 5, 10, 12... can I stop?) with brakes of all sorts (don't get me started). Optimistically thinking, you kinda get the best of both worlds with the SC3 don't you? Of course, as long as you don't forget that you don't have that rear caliper. Oh, and when you change to a regular AW or derailleured bike, that you don't have that solid and sure coaster brake to "back" on. Oh, and you can't free-pedal back-pedal at a 10-o'clock position at a stop light - there's that. Alas. Regardless, I appreciate them all.
One of my "next" bikes I'll install that rear caliper on a classic roadster coaster 3-spd to help alleviate that cursed muscle-memory-bike-swap problem that can happen.
One of my "next" bikes I'll install that rear caliper on a classic roadster coaster 3-spd to help alleviate that cursed muscle-memory-bike-swap problem that can happen.
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Belgium
Posts: 65
Bikes: 1951-2 BSA 900E Roadster, 1961 Triumph Sports, 1953 Raleigh Sports, 1981 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Twenty, 1951 Taxandria, ±1950 The Gold Lion Tandem
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked 14 Times
in
9 Posts
Hi all,
A few days ago, a friend of mine dumped the “wreck" of “an old Raleigh" at my door.
He was on his way to the local recycling centre, but wondered if - maybe - I could use it, as I own a few post- Raleigh takeover Triumph bicycles.
Of course I could
The “old Raleigh" turns out to be a 1980 Superbe in pretty good condition, though it has been in the open air for quite some time.
Today, I had a closer look and started to clean it up a bit.
I plan to use it as my daily ride instead of my - 3 speed - 1954 BSA Tourer.
Digging in my boxes of Raleigh stuff, I found some better brake calipers and other usable parts to make it a reliable bike...
Rear ( stainless steel ) rim was dented, but I managed to straighten that out and the wheel turns smoothly now.
Peter
A few days ago, a friend of mine dumped the “wreck" of “an old Raleigh" at my door.
He was on his way to the local recycling centre, but wondered if - maybe - I could use it, as I own a few post- Raleigh takeover Triumph bicycles.
Of course I could
The “old Raleigh" turns out to be a 1980 Superbe in pretty good condition, though it has been in the open air for quite some time.
Today, I had a closer look and started to clean it up a bit.
I plan to use it as my daily ride instead of my - 3 speed - 1954 BSA Tourer.
Digging in my boxes of Raleigh stuff, I found some better brake calipers and other usable parts to make it a reliable bike...
Rear ( stainless steel ) rim was dented, but I managed to straighten that out and the wheel turns smoothly now.
Peter
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 443 Times
in
288 Posts
Hang on to Your Nuts!
I was browsing Amazon and saw this axle nut priced at a reasonable $42.14 (plus shipping).
412VaVaP5HL.jpg
Also listed, an axle key at the bargain price of $51.92 (plus shipping).
41VEWxcoOoL.jpg
412VaVaP5HL.jpg
Also listed, an axle key at the bargain price of $51.92 (plus shipping).
41VEWxcoOoL.jpg
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 920
Bikes: Diamond Back Apex, Mongoose IBOC Aluminum Road Bike, SR road bike
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 515 Post(s)
Liked 167 Times
in
116 Posts
I was browsing Amazon and saw this axle nut priced at a reasonable $42.14 (plus shipping).
Attachment 607213
Also listed, an axle key at the bargain price of $51.92 (plus shipping).
Attachment 607214
Attachment 607213
Also listed, an axle key at the bargain price of $51.92 (plus shipping).
Attachment 607214
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660
Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times
in
17 Posts
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pigseye
Posts: 556
Bikes: Raleigh Sports
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 202 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I was browsing Amazon and saw this axle nut priced at a reasonable $42.14 (plus shipping).
Attachment 607213
Also listed, an axle key at the bargain price of $51.92 (plus shipping).
Attachment 607214
Attachment 607213
Also listed, an axle key at the bargain price of $51.92 (plus shipping).
Attachment 607214
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
Hi all,
A few days ago, a friend of mine dumped the “wreck" of “an old Raleigh" at my door.
He was on his way to the local recycling centre, but wondered if - maybe - I could use it, as I own a few post- Raleigh takeover Triumph bicycles.
Of course I could
The “old Raleigh" turns out to be a 1980 Superbe in pretty good condition, though it has been in the open air for quite some time.
Today, I had a closer look and started to clean it up a bit.
I plan to use it as my daily ride instead of my - 3 speed - 1954 BSA Tourer.
Digging in my boxes of Raleigh stuff, I found some better brake calipers and other usable parts to make it a reliable bike...
Rear ( stainless steel ) rim was dented, but I managed to straighten that out and the wheel turns smoothly now.
Peter
A few days ago, a friend of mine dumped the “wreck" of “an old Raleigh" at my door.
He was on his way to the local recycling centre, but wondered if - maybe - I could use it, as I own a few post- Raleigh takeover Triumph bicycles.
Of course I could
The “old Raleigh" turns out to be a 1980 Superbe in pretty good condition, though it has been in the open air for quite some time.
Today, I had a closer look and started to clean it up a bit.
I plan to use it as my daily ride instead of my - 3 speed - 1954 BSA Tourer.
Digging in my boxes of Raleigh stuff, I found some better brake calipers and other usable parts to make it a reliable bike...
Rear ( stainless steel ) rim was dented, but I managed to straighten that out and the wheel turns smoothly now.
Peter
__________________
Inflate Hard
Inflate Hard
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,648
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 478 Post(s)
Liked 634 Times
in
336 Posts
This bike should clean up nicely. Love the color. I have a question. All light roadster frames had a round lug brazed into the drive side chainstay for mounting an enclosed chaincase. They did away with these in the early 60s. How were the chaincases mounted on these later frames? Does it have anything to do with that stamped piece the kickstand is mounted on? That piece is something I haven't seen before. There used to be a tube there.
On one of my elderly italian bikes the chaincase is held by the drive side bb cup.....
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times
in
85 Posts
Not so with the DL-1. Every one I've seen has the lug.
__________________
Inflate Hard
Inflate Hard
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660
Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times
in
17 Posts
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660
Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times
in
17 Posts
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Belgium
Posts: 65
Bikes: 1951-2 BSA 900E Roadster, 1961 Triumph Sports, 1953 Raleigh Sports, 1981 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Twenty, 1951 Taxandria, ±1950 The Gold Lion Tandem
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked 14 Times
in
9 Posts
This bike should clean up nicely. Love the color. I have a question. All light roadster frames had a round lug brazed into the drive side chainstay for mounting an enclosed chaincase. They did away with these in the early 60s. How were the chaincases mounted on these later frames? Does it have anything to do with that stamped piece the kickstand is mounted on? That piece is something I haven't seen before. There used to be a tube there.
The brazed-on lug is there and I do like the stamped plate the kickstand is mounted on too. Far better than the aluminum clamped- on stands.
BTW, I didn' t find any frame number on the bike. Rear wheel has a 3-speed Sturmey from 1980 that I think is the original one...
Peter
Last edited by oldveloman; 04-15-18 at 03:48 AM.
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 634
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 230 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 18 Times
in
11 Posts
Hi all,
A few days ago, a friend of mine dumped the “wreck" of “an old Raleigh" at my door.
He was on his way to the local recycling centre, but wondered if - maybe - I could use it, as I own a few post- Raleigh takeover Triumph bicycles.
Of course I could
The “old Raleigh" turns out to be a 1980 Superbe in pretty good condition, though it has been in the open air for quite some time.
Today, I had a closer look and started to clean it up a bit.
I plan to use it as my daily ride instead of my - 3 speed - 1954 BSA Tourer.
Digging in my boxes of Raleigh stuff, I found some better brake calipers and other usable parts to make it a reliable bike...
Rear ( stainless steel ) rim was dented, but I managed to straighten that out and the wheel turns smoothly now.
Peter
A few days ago, a friend of mine dumped the “wreck" of “an old Raleigh" at my door.
He was on his way to the local recycling centre, but wondered if - maybe - I could use it, as I own a few post- Raleigh takeover Triumph bicycles.
Of course I could
The “old Raleigh" turns out to be a 1980 Superbe in pretty good condition, though it has been in the open air for quite some time.
Today, I had a closer look and started to clean it up a bit.
I plan to use it as my daily ride instead of my - 3 speed - 1954 BSA Tourer.
Digging in my boxes of Raleigh stuff, I found some better brake calipers and other usable parts to make it a reliable bike...
Rear ( stainless steel ) rim was dented, but I managed to straighten that out and the wheel turns smoothly now.
Peter
Then there's the Dutch market machines, that are similar again but only came with drum brakes.
What really bugs me is that in the UK from the early 70s onwards they only advertised the one model of Superbe, what used to be called the dawn tourist, rod brakes and mattress saddle. Yet every now and again ones like yours pop up with caliper brakes and adjustable handlebars, with no explanation. I've even seen one come up looking like it'd never been ridden, but in black instead of green.
I can't tell if all these unadvertised and undocumented variations were intentional or if they were just throwing together whatever they found on the shelves.
Overdoing projects
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Rotterdam, former republic of the Netherlands
Posts: 2,397
Bikes: Batavus Randonneur GL, Gazelle Orange Excellent, Gazelle Super Licht, Gazelle Grand Tourist, Gazelle Lausanne, Gazelle Tandem, Koga-Miyata SilverAce, Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller
Mentioned: 58 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 784 Post(s)
Liked 1,238 Times
in
686 Posts
Just got my hands on an alloy Stumey Archer FM 4-speed hub from 1956 with matching 4-speed shifter. I'll probably have to take it apart and spend some time finding a 40-hole wheel that fits the bike but it looks like I'll be turning my Gazelle Superlicht into a clubman racer.