Should clincher tires have inner tubes?
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Look at the writing on the side of the tire. It should tell you the maximum tire pressure right along with information as to the tire size. Sometimes it will have a range.
Here is an example for the Kenda 700C X23 tire I use on the rear of my recumbent trike.
I never bother to actually measure the pressure, just pump them up hard so I can't depress the tire much with my thumb. If I let it get soft I will get the type of pinch flat your picture shows,
Here is an example for the Kenda 700C X23 tire I use on the rear of my recumbent trike.
I never bother to actually measure the pressure, just pump them up hard so I can't depress the tire much with my thumb. If I let it get soft I will get the type of pinch flat your picture shows,
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90psi in 32mm tires!?! That's way over inflated. 60-70 would be the max unless you weigh a ton.
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Pumped up rock hard is fine for 23’s. 90 should be excessive for 32’s, the whole point of bigger tires is to run them softer. But if you’re not really checking pressure or you ride through potholes …
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unless it is obvious, like a nail sticking from the tire, you have to run your fingers on the inside of the tire to feel for any sharp point that made the flat... that's why it is important to mark the tube orientation, sometimes also rim orientation before removing tire/tube (rim orientation with respect to tire and tube - since the tube allows for two positions in the tire). It is usually simpler to find where the tube was punctured (inflate it and listen for a hissing sound or hold it under water and look for bubbles coming out) and from that you deduce the puncture position on the tire, sometimes on the rim (protruding spoke into the rim).
Mind you, on the initial run detecting for sharp object inside the tire surface, take it easy so you don't cut your finger. Unfortunately your fingers are still the best detectors around
Also it looks as if the tube will have a big hole in it given it won't inflate at all. Since you don't see any obvious tire damage, it could be a fault in the tube seam, it can separate creating a long gash. Usually it is better to throw the tube out than fixing it as it might do the same thing in another place before long.
Mind you, on the initial run detecting for sharp object inside the tire surface, take it easy so you don't cut your finger. Unfortunately your fingers are still the best detectors around
Also it looks as if the tube will have a big hole in it given it won't inflate at all. Since you don't see any obvious tire damage, it could be a fault in the tube seam, it can separate creating a long gash. Usually it is better to throw the tube out than fixing it as it might do the same thing in another place before long.
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Notice those slits are centered on the side of your tube. They were caused by your rim bottoming out on a pothole, railroad tracks ... By definition, those slits were "on center". What you are seeing is a tube that was put in twisted; in fact 90 degrees in 3 inches. Bad. Twisted tubes cause problems - flats not associated with anything else. I'm not going to grade you or whoever installed that tube. But I also don't want to see you at the roadside with another flat.
Both the tiny tire wires and small pieces of glass can remain in the tread/cord of the tire and have nothing visible on either side if the tire. The way to find them is to patch your inner tube. Then put it back in and look very hard where the patch is (and exactly that far away on the other side of the valve stem - count spokes). It is radically easier to find something you know is in a 1 inch circle that something that might be anywhere along a 7 foot by 3 inch strip. And if you don't find it, your next patch will be over the last or exactly the same distance from the valve.
Both the tiny tire wires and small pieces of glass can remain in the tread/cord of the tire and have nothing visible on either side if the tire. The way to find them is to patch your inner tube. Then put it back in and look very hard where the patch is (and exactly that far away on the other side of the valve stem - count spokes). It is radically easier to find something you know is in a 1 inch circle that something that might be anywhere along a 7 foot by 3 inch strip. And if you don't find it, your next patch will be over the last or exactly the same distance from the valve.
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Update: With help of my bike guru friend, we found a staple in the tire, not real obvious and only could tell from the inside. The staple must have caused a slow leak (I thought the ride was getting softer before the flat) then at a certain deflation point, the pinch flat occurred. Disappointed a staple would penetrate this tire I purchased ($50 plus each) for it's stated puncture resistant ability but my friend believes the staple probably would have penetrated most any road tire.
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Low TPI tire?
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Update: With help of my bike guru friend, we found a staple in the tire, not real obvious and only could tell from the inside. The staple must have caused a slow leak (I thought the ride was getting softer before the flat) then at a certain deflation point, the pinch flat occurred. Disappointed a staple would penetrate this tire I purchased ($50 plus each) for it's stated puncture resistant ability but my friend believes the staple probably would have penetrated most any road tire.
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No fault, normal incident
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I'm learning as I go along. After installing new tube, I put 75 lbs in the tire (according to pump gauge) and I think you lose a little when you remove the pump. Tire still felt pretty hard to the touch but a noticeable smoother ride. Tire says max pressure 102 lbs. Maybe I'll go down to 70 next time.
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I wasn't going to come back here, but the title has been bugging me everytime I see it.
And I'm not certain anyone directly addressed the title, but if so, good for you!
Clincher tires can be tubeless or with tubes. Matters not if the bead is hooked or smooth. It's still a clincher tire.
The other tire choice is tubular.
Should clincher tires have inner tubes?
Clincher tires can be tubeless or with tubes. Matters not if the bead is hooked or smooth. It's still a clincher tire.
The other tire choice is tubular.
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I'm learning as I go along. After installing new tube, I put 75 lbs in the tire (according to pump gauge) and I think you lose a little when you remove the pump. Tire still felt pretty hard to the touch but a noticeable smoother ride. Tire says max pressure 102 lbs. Maybe I'll go down to 70 next time.
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Update: With help of my bike guru friend, we found a staple in the tire, not real obvious and only could tell from the inside. The staple must have caused a slow leak (I thought the ride was getting softer before the flat) then at a certain deflation point, the pinch flat occurred. Disappointed a staple would penetrate this tire I purchased ($50 plus each) for it's stated puncture resistant ability but my friend believes the staple probably would have penetrated most any road tire.
If my tire is going flat, I can usually feel a couple of jarring bumps and I pull over immediately when I feel them, then decide if I want to try to baby it home, or fix on the side of the road.
When a radial tire starts going bald (often out of alignment, so one side wear), they start shedding tiny wires about the size of a hair. These wires can be almost invisible, but can cause repeated flats if you don't hunt them down and fix.
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No...as SOON as you stop pushing down on the pump handle the valve closes. You go from more air in the pump chamber to more air (pressure) in the tube/tire instantly. NO air pressure is lost when you remove the pump head from a Presta valve.
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I believe that once the the pressure is equalized between the pump and tire, there's nothing keeping the valve either open or closed. Therefore, if you don't have a very good seal between your pump head and the tube valve, you'll watch the pressure slowly decrease as air leaks out.
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I believe that once the the pressure is equalized between the pump and tire, there's nothing keeping the valve either open or closed. Therefore, if you don't have a very good seal between your pump head and the tube valve, you'll watch the pressure slowly decrease as air leaks out.
You put the pump head on an open Presta valve. If the tube/tire has air in it, say 30psi for the hell of it, it stays closed. You start pumping and the pressure in the pump becomes higher than the pressure in the tube so the valve opens and increases the pressure in the tube. When you reach the bottom of the stroke you're no longer pushing pressurized air anywhere so the pressure in the tube is higher than that in the pump hose and the valve closes. There is still some pressure in the hose but not enough to overcome the pressure in the tube so the valve stays closed. When you pull the pump head off the valve (the important word here is 'pull') the valve stays closed. The air you hear escaping is coming from the hose. The higher the pressure you pump the tire/tube up to the bigger the 'whoosh' of air coming out of the hose. It's really very simple. With many pumps you can hear the valve click closed when you reach the bottom of the stroke...my old Silca does this.
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No, still wrong. Here's how it works...
You put the pump head on an open Presta valve. If the tube/tire has air in it, say 30psi for the hell of it, it stays closed. You start pumping and the pressure in the pump becomes higher than the pressure in the tube so the valve opens and increases the pressure in the tube. When you reach the bottom of the stroke you're no longer pushing pressurized air anywhere so the pressure in the tube is higher than that in the pump hose and the valve closes. There is still some pressure in the hose but not enough to overcome the pressure in the tube so the valve stays closed. When you pull the pump head off the valve (the important word here is 'pull') the valve stays closed. The air you hear escaping is coming from the hose. The higher the pressure you pump the tire/tube up to the bigger the 'whoosh' of air coming out of the hose. It's really very simple. With many pumps you can hear the valve click closed when you reach the bottom of the stroke...my old Silca does this.
You put the pump head on an open Presta valve. If the tube/tire has air in it, say 30psi for the hell of it, it stays closed. You start pumping and the pressure in the pump becomes higher than the pressure in the tube so the valve opens and increases the pressure in the tube. When you reach the bottom of the stroke you're no longer pushing pressurized air anywhere so the pressure in the tube is higher than that in the pump hose and the valve closes. There is still some pressure in the hose but not enough to overcome the pressure in the tube so the valve stays closed. When you pull the pump head off the valve (the important word here is 'pull') the valve stays closed. The air you hear escaping is coming from the hose. The higher the pressure you pump the tire/tube up to the bigger the 'whoosh' of air coming out of the hose. It's really very simple. With many pumps you can hear the valve click closed when you reach the bottom of the stroke...my old Silca does this.
OTOH, no argument that when taking the pump head off the valve, the big hiss is coming from the air in the hose, since the valve closes so fast on the tube there's virtually no air lost there.
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Unless you're using sealant. The sealant can collect on the tube side of the presta valve preventing it from totally closing when you remove the pump head resulting in a slow air leak. When I close the nut on the presta valve the air leak stops. If it bothers me enough I have to remove the valve and clean it.