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Why is my chainline off?

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Old 10-22-23, 08:53 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Schlafen
Is the frame straight? Rear wheel centered?
yes and yes, but neither would affect the front chainline measurement.
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Old 10-22-23, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by norskagent
yes and yes, but neither would affect the front chainline measurement.
how far into the crank is the spindle taper?
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Old 10-22-23, 03:19 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Schlafen
how far into the crank is the spindle taper?
Drive side:


Non drive side:

both spindle ends are the same depth from the crank face, 12mm
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Old 10-22-23, 03:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 70sSanO
Just wondering, how does the chain line up with the center of the freewheel/cassette?
This is the right question. Look for a "gun site alignment" as you sight along the center FW cog and tbe chainrings.

The chainline "measurement" is not as significant.

/markp

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Old 10-22-23, 03:40 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by norskagent
both spindle ends are the same depth from the crank face, 12mm
looking at the drive side spindle taper, how far inside the hole is the end of the spindle, from being flush with the crank face on the drive side? You need to remove the plastic cover and crank bolt in order to check.
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Old 10-22-23, 03:43 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Schlafen
looking at the drive side spindle taper, how far inside the hole is the end of the spindle, from being flush with the crank face on the drive side? You need to remove the plastic cover and crank bolt in order to check.
12mm, same as the other side.
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Old 10-22-23, 03:44 PM
  #32  
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It's not clear exactly how you're measuring chainline. In the last picture in your post (the one with the metal ruler), the ruler is clearly not at the centerline of the tube. Chainline on a 2x crank is measured from the center of the seat tube (where the point of the lug is) to the midpoint between the two chainrings. It can be tricky to measure accurately, but I use the same type of metal ruler. If you have digital calipers those work too. There are diagrams and other useful information here: All About Bicycle Chainline

Can you confirm how you measured it?
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Old 10-22-23, 03:59 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Neese
Can you confirm how you measured it?
I took the photo that way to show how far off from center the chainline is. It was hard for me to get a clear photo of the steel ruler in the gap between the two rings. I also measured the chainline from the edge of the seat tube to the center of each ring and worked out the same result as the direct measurement.
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Old 10-22-23, 04:01 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by norskagent
12mm, same as the other side.
I'm talking about the outer end of the spindle, the one inside the crank. The top red line is the face of the crank arm, the bottom red line is the end of the spindle. If the spindle doesn't stop where it's supposed to, your measurement will be off by a few mm. This is an asymmetric spindle, it's not necessarily supposed to look symmetric once fitted.
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Old 10-22-23, 04:10 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by norskagent
Drive side:


Non drive side:

both spindle ends are the same depth from the crank face, 12mm
Looks like both cranks should be a bit more inward, like 3mm (to my eye). That should give a chainline of about 45mm, not too far off. Maybe the crank/spindle tapers are not matched?
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Old 10-22-23, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Schlafen
I'm talking about the outer end of the spindle, the one inside the crank. The top red line is the face of the crank arm, the bottom red line is the end of the spindle. If the spindle doesn't stop where it's supposed to, your measurement will be off by a few mm. This is an asymmetric spindle, it's not necessarily supposed to look symmetric once fitted.
ah I see
about 4.5mm on the drive side.
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Old 10-22-23, 04:21 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Reynolds
Looks like both cranks should be a bit more inward, like 3mm (to my eye). That should give a chainline of about 45mm, not too far off. Maybe the crank/spindle tapers are not matched?
well the reason I sourced a dura ace 7400 bottom bracket for the 7402 crank was to insure a matched fit.
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Old 10-22-23, 04:26 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by mpetry912
This is the right question. Look for a "gun site alignment" as you sight along the center FW cog and tbe chainrings.

The chainline "measurement" is not as significant.

/markp

your photo shows that more clearly than I was able to view, but from what I could tell my crank lined up about 1 cog too far outboard. Tomorrow I will check wheel dish and frame alignment but I'm sure I checked all that a few years ago.
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Old 10-22-23, 04:27 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by norskagent
well the reason I sourced a dura ace 7400 bottom bracket for the 7402 crank was to insure a matched fit.
As stated somewhere above, I think some 7400 were ISO and other were JIS, but they weren't marked (or so they say).
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Old 10-22-23, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by norskagent
ah I see
about 4.5mm on the drive side.
Personally, I'm happy with ~2.5mm on my cranks, so the spindle doesn't bottom out against the bolt, what does Shimano recommend for these cranks?
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Old 10-22-23, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Reynolds
As stated somewhere above, I think some 7400 were ISO and other were JIS, but they weren't marked (or so they say).
ah dang I don't think I can measure taper!
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Old 10-22-23, 04:36 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by norskagent
ah dang I don't think I can measure taper!
ISO/JIS taper angle should be the same, but radial dimensions are a bit different IIRC.
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Old 10-22-23, 05:33 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by norskagent
maybe 6 -7mm but the chainstay is indented. I tried fitting a 110mm phil wood symmetrical bottom bracket prior to this and clearance there was only 1 or 2mm.
iirc, a Phil Wood can be installed in a 5mm range, up to 2.5mm off-center. When I put my triplizer in, I had about 2mm of clearance from the new chainring to my (un-indented) chainstay, and that has been sufficient in my application - no need to adjust my Phil Wood off from center.
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Old 10-22-23, 06:11 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Reynolds
As stated somewhere above, I think some 7400 were ISO and other were JIS, but they weren't marked (or so they say).
okay then here is a theory - since "low profile JIS" is similar to ISO (or so I have read), and my crank is (I guess) low profile JIS, my spindle may be "regular" JIS, which would situate the crank further outboard, according to St. Sheldon:
" If you install an ISO crank on a J.I.S. spindle, it will sit about 4.5 mm farther out than it would on an ISO spindle of the same length."
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Old 10-23-23, 06:40 AM
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For what it's worth, I have just measured my Moser with the BB-7400 and FC-7402 combo and got 10mm on the drive side and 9mm on the non drive, crank to chainstay.

Measuring from the back of the crank arm to the 28.6mm seat tube, 44.5mm drive, 43.5mm non drive. Have a measure of those on yours and see how they compare.

The amount of square taper visible on each side in the pictures above looks correct, when compared to what I have here.

The chainline I have measured just now is 45.3mm

For those doubting the spindle, 113mm with 1mm offset, longer on the drive side, is correct.

Last edited by Seanaus; 10-23-23 at 06:47 AM.
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Old 10-23-23, 07:51 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Seanaus
For what it's worth, I have just measured my Moser with the BB-7400 and FC-7402 combo and got 10mm on the drive side and 9mm on the non drive, crank to chainstay.

Measuring from the back of the crank arm to the 28.6mm seat tube, 44.5mm drive, 43.5mm non drive. Have a measure of those on yours and see how they compare.

The amount of square taper visible on each side
I get the same 9mm/10mm measurement, but 42mm/46.5 for the crank arm end to seat tube measurement.
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Old 10-23-23, 11:17 AM
  #47  
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Try adding a 2.5mm anti-matter spacer under the drive-side cup. I think Problem Solvers has them.
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Old 10-23-23, 01:13 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by norskagent
okay then here is a theory - since "low profile JIS" is similar to ISO (or so I have read), and my crank is (I guess) low profile JIS, my spindle may be "regular" JIS, which would situate the crank further outboard, according to St. Sheldon:
" If you install an ISO crank on a J.I.S. spindle, it will sit about 4.5 mm farther out than it would on an ISO spindle of the same length."
Another point of reference to possibly confirm if the ISO/JIS difference is the issue, would be to check the Q factor (thread distance).

This is part of a chart that I copied a while back. It is still floating around web. Don't know the original source so can't confirm if it is 100% accurate, so FWIW.

Don't know if there's a better source to get the Q info for your crank.

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Old 10-23-23, 02:17 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by jonwvara
Try adding a 2.5mm anti-matter spacer under the drive-side cup.
Does this solution move the chainrings toward the frame?
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Old 10-23-23, 02:21 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by KCT1986

Using that chart I get +1mm for the left side, and +3mm right side.
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