Insidious C. 

I have a 74 Grand Jubile frame I would like to build. A previous owner set the rear fork to 130mm. Is there a Huret RD with the non-Campag stop position that can shift thru 8 cogs? Failing that, what would you do? Modify hanger? Reset the fork? One thing that occurred to me is to give up on the frame. No pic but by now we all have seen pics of the Huret DO with hanger.

Classtime 

Do you already have a Huret derailleur? Will a Huret shift 7 cogs? Then use a 130 wheel with a spacer and 7 speed cassette.

Aubergine 

I'd be inclined to try a DuoPar. I have a few spares you could try, if you are close enough to Seattle.

(my own Grand Jubile is in Reims.)

BTinNYC 

I would modify the hangar.

icemilkcoffee 

Can you modify the hub to become 130OLD, with a longer axle and a few washers on the NDS?

JohnDThompson 

Schwinn modified the Huret dropouts on their Sports Tourer frames to accept Shimano derailleurs by cutting a notch in the front of the hanger to hold the derailleur's pivot spring stop.

Unmodified:

Modified:

Or, if you don't mind repainting, you can build up brass on the bottom of the hanger and file a stop for a Campagnolo-type derailleur:

gugie 

You know a guy…




Heat affected zone is small, I did this mod on @Andy_K’s Motobacon and Stella. The nearby paint gets charred, But since the dropout works as a fin, doesn’t travel up very far. Some primer to protect it, the derailleur and chain hide it, so you’re gold.

Insidious C. 

I have some parts for a mock up. Mavic 8 speed 130mm hub that I had in mind for this frame maybe with 650b. I've got two Huret RDs - a Luxe Competition (shiny but doubtful 8 speed) and a titanium duopar which I have other plans for. I will try the Duopar tho. If it works I'm guessing the Eco version would also. I will try it and report back.

Mad Honk 

If you have and Eco use it. It should work nicely and cover the range OK. Smiles, MH

Insidious C. 

The Ti Duopar fell short of the large cog with the stop screw fully backed out. My Duopar has the clocking washer for Campagnolo dropouts, but you can still get a good idea of the latteral travel even with the incorrect derailleur clocking. Large cog is 28T so I didn't bother trying the Luxe Competition.

Road Fan

What stops the inward travel of the cage is the inner travel limit screw combined with the travel stop. You can get more travel by shortening the screw or by relieving the stop that the screw bears on. You need about 3 or 4 mm more travel.

I think the surface of the dropout that the derailleur mounts to might be located too far out from the bike centerline, perhaps due to some form of added spacer. This would bias the whole mech outward, requiring the inward throw to be extended by relieving travel stops. My suggestion is a way of improving inward travel.

Generally the mechanical design of a derailleur is thought out to prevent this issue, but in custom or adapted use cases, these problems can sneak in.

dddd

One could perhaps tack-weld a spot of metal under the hanger to provide the "Campagnolo" stop position, really low and brief heat input this way.

If trying for more throw from the derailer, start by taking 1mm out of the drive-side axle spacing, you'll still have chain clearance!

I sometimes find a 1mm-thinner Shimano locknut for the drive side and add a 1mm washer to the non-driveside of the axle, which makes for a stronger wheel and also better chainline while reducing the chosen derailer's throw requirement.

On variants of the Huret and Schwinn Allvits for example, I have found different ways of de-restricting the outward travel, taking advantage of my having shifted an upgraded-to-6s freewheel closer to the dropout and allowing use of modern chain with a standard 6s freewheel. Point being that every derailer and bike might have a different sort of modification needed to achieve the needed range of derailer cage travel that is positioned to match the particular freewheel or cassette's position within the frame's spacing.

Fredo76

For my Huret dropouts I just made a b-screw extender.

Went down to the hardware store and got a longer M4 screw, with a wider head, and two nuts. I snugged one nut up against the screw head, put the screw in the wrong way, and snugged it to the derailleur tab with another nut, where the original b-screw head would be.

Like so:


Extended b-screw for Huret dropouts

dddd

I really like how the rear-most hex hut stabilizes the screw in the stop plate, to prevent the screw head from slipping past the stop edge.

A small washer could even be added under the screw head for better bite at perhaps even longer screw extension?

On derailers such as yours with sprung top "B" pivots, the torque on the spring plate is limited by the spring, making the screw head less likely to ever slip past the tang on the hanger.

Fissile

Schwinn notched that dropout to hold a tab from an adapter washer so they could use a Suntour GTV derailleur. See here:


The adapter in question is part number 14. You can see the original thread here.