noglider 

My friend needs a new freehub body, as the pawls are no longer catching. I suppose we could take it apart and overhaul it, but where can we get the tool? So are these freehub bodies available anywhere?

The hub is a Shimano Deore LX (Parallax) also known as FH-M565.

Thanks.

Schlafen

https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/ev/FH...M565-1487B.pdf

Shimano part # 30R 9801

Schweinhund

got a couple of MC12 Parallax hubs in good shape if the freehub will fit yours

mpetry912 

Tom I put "shimano freehub body" into ebay search and got a large number of results in the $20 range

this part may be common across a wide range of Shimano hubs.

put a lot of grease in it before install

/markp

Mad Honk 

Tom,
I have a tool for the rebuild and the rebuild is easy. If you want to borrow it let me know, or I can likely make a tool for you. Smiles, MH

noglider 

And how interchangeable are these things across models?

Thanks to you and everyone so far.

mpetry912 

hard to tell but I'd suggest that any freehub body with a -500 series part number will work.

no guarantees but that is my take

I don't know of any place that stocks the parts.

/markp

Schweinhund

Ever read a tech doc and realize aww crap.
In three different docs what I have been calling a freehub or a freehub body is referred to as a freewheel body
The whole thing is a freehub, the part that goes click is a freewheel body.
eGads.

Mad Honk 

Well this is for Tom and jdawginsc on the subject of the freehub overhaul. (Also see the discussion in the Huffiente thread)
I pulled out the original tool so that you can see how it engages the freehub lock ring. And then I will show how to make the cheap junk yard version. And I do mean cheap!

The original tool from Shimano with pictures of how to use it.

Th engagement of the tool with a lock ring. The ring had left-hand threads so it is important to turn it the right way to dis-engage it from the freehub.
I think I paid a reasonable amount for it 35 years ago, but can't recall how much. And now a couple of posts on how to make the cheap junk yard model. Smiles, MH

Mad Honk 

Here is the process to make a tool for about $3 and about 45 minutes of work. First to the pawn shops to find a socket that will work. After three shops I found a black socket that was just few thousands of an inch too large to fit in the free-hub. So back to the shop and do some creative metal removal. I found one a couple of years ago that was a good fit I think it was and SK socket, but didn't find any this morning so the second best thing will work. I am going to use a bit that fits my drill/driver and converts to a 3/8" driver bit. I take the socket and head to the grinder spinning the socket against the turning wheel to remove enough metal to fit snugly in the free-hub body.

This was the "fity" cent socket from the pawn shop. You can see the outside diameter of the socket is just a bit large to fit in the body.

A little grinding and the fit is nice and smooth.
Now on to the process of making it into a free-hub tool. I start by cutting two slots in the widest section of the socket wall about the same size as the slots in the lock ring. Next is two slots across the socket to make the other pin for the tool to fit in the ring.

A lock ring and the socket with the two pins cut away on either side of the socket.

Next step is to remove anything that doesn't look like a lock ring tool. I have marked it black to show what is going to leave.
A bit more work on removing material and the tool is close to being finished. Some final burr removal and smoothing of the outer sidewalls of the tool.

The socket with the bits of metal removed.

The tool as it meshes with the lock ring.
I have used three Dremel thin cut blades some grinding time with the socket and the cost of a cheap socket. Next to try to put it into action on a freehub. Smiles, MH

ThermionicScott 

A drag link socket of the right blade width ought to do the job, too. Maybe start with a 1.5" wide one (less than $20) and grind it down until it's 29mm wide.

Mad Honk 

So here is the final result of the project earlier today: I used a hub with the freehub still attached, as it is easier to break the freehub body apart with the hub attached to a shell. So here goes...

The tool attached to a small battery operated impact driver, that is going to be used to do the work.

The hub shell with the freehub attached in the shop vise.

The lock ring as it came to me.

A single burst of power on the driver and tool combination and the lock ring is loose. About five seconds to open the freehub.
So the tool does indeed work as designed..

The hub shell and freehub parts after the short disassembly work.

This picture does not do justice to the group of parts that came out of the freehub. Note the very few bearings in the freehub assembly.
I have been having a discussion with pastorbobnlnh (who owns the freewheel spa) about how the number of bearings is always fewer than optimum for a freewheel to work correctly. So the process is fairly easy and doesn't require a lot of expensive tools. I hope this shows how easy it is to rebuild the freehubs. Smiles, MH

Spoonrobot 

You can buy the tool for $10-15 off Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Yosoo-Health-...dp/B08C7XPV4X/

Youtube video of disassembly/reassembly

I rebuilt a bunch of freehubs from 2020 when parts were scarce.

Mad Honk 

I guess I should have just done a google search on this. Smiles, MH