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Mavic Aksium (2014) 130mm to 135mm possible?

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Mavic Aksium (2014) 130mm to 135mm possible?

Old 06-29-22, 08:28 AM
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tomhaegler
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Mavic Aksium (2014) 130mm to 135mm possible?

I have a Mavic Aksium wheelset Id like to use on a vintage 135mm frame. I was thinking of using spacers on both sides to increase the OLD to 135mm. But then I would only have about 2.5mm axle left on both sides. I know people would ride a bike like this but Id rather have 5.5mm.

is there another possibility? I think there is no longer 135mm axle or adapter available?
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Old 06-29-22, 10:18 AM
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When Mavic was still making these wheels I don't remember there being an option for doing this. I suppose if one was handy with machine shop stuff one could make new axle ends that create the new axle length. Good luck doing this on a long since made wheel by a company that has seen ownership changes and product offerings being dropped.

If I had to use this wheel I might just try adding simple washers to each end, taking care to retain some axle end in the dropout slots. Andy
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Old 06-29-22, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by tomhaegler View Post
I have a Mavic Aksium wheelset Id like to use on a vintage 135mm frame. I was thinking of using spacers on both sides to increase the OLD to 135mm. But then I would only have about 2.5mm axle left on both sides. I know people would ride a bike like this but Id rather have 5.5mm.

is there another possibility? I think there is no longer 135mm axle or adapter available?
When you say vintage, do you mean the frame is steel? If yes, my first step would be to install the wheel as is and compress the frame. Check to see that the frame compressed uniformly and if it did, that's all you need.
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Old 06-29-22, 12:41 PM
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steel, yes. It seems to work - but I'd prefer a better fit than always squeezing the frame...
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Old 06-29-22, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
When Mavic was still making these wheels I don't remember there being an option for doing this. I suppose if one was handy with machine shop stuff one could make new axle ends that create the new axle length. Good luck doing this on a long since made wheel by a company that has seen ownership changes and product offerings being dropped.

If I had to use this wheel I might just try adding simple washers to each end, taking care to retain some axle end in the dropout slots. Andy
Thanks! How much axle end would you retain minimum?
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Old 06-29-22, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by tomhaegler View Post
steel, yes. It seems to work - but I'd prefer a better fit than always squeezing the frame...
A couple of MMs of spread or compression is generally no big deal. Some frames have been built to a 132.5 (or 127.5 in a previous generation) to accommodate the two width standards. Resetting the frame to this is easy for those who know how, if done do recheck the dropouts for parallelism. Not sure this would be my first choice to do though. Andy
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Old 06-29-22, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by tomhaegler View Post
Thanks! How much axle end would you retain minimum?

A couple of MMs per side. Ideally the driveside washer is made of steel to better grip the dropout face. I would also strongly suggest a proper internal cam QR skewer be used. Andy
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Old 06-29-22, 02:43 PM
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Sheldon Brown used to say that just qr skewer compression was really adequate to hold the wheel in position with no axle sticking out so 2.5 mm of axle protrusion at each end is really plenty. This is quoted from his former web site: "In practice, the axle can be quite a bit shorter than this...even 1-2 mm protrusion past the locknuts will suffice to locate the axle properly, so, when converting a hub to the next wider spacing, it is usually not necessary to replace the axle."

I did something similar with a 126mm hub to make it fit in a 130mm frame and the wheel had no problems staying aligned.
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Old 06-29-22, 03:00 PM
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Interesting: if Sheldon Brown is right, that would mean there is no weight on the axles at all?! Even when hitting a pothole?
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Old 06-29-22, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tomhaegler View Post
Interesting: if Sheldon Brown is right, that would mean there is no weight on the axles at all?! Even when hitting a pothole?
No, it doesn't mean that.
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Old 07-01-22, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by tomhaegler View Post
steel, yes. It seems to work - but I'd prefer a better fit than always squeezing the frame...
I had the experience of "spreading" a steel frame to get the wheel in when I went to a wider hub. After a few thousand miles, the frame "self-cold-set" and I no longer needed to spread the frame. Yours will do the same.
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