Question about Shimano RD-7200
04-25-24, 01:00 PM
#1
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Question about Shimano RD-7200
Hi.
Do the mounting points for the shifter cable swivel? The usually do on shimano RDs. I tried this one by hand and neither of them moved. Dont want to crank on it since it is a NIB one.
Do the mounting points for the shifter cable swivel? The usually do on shimano RDs. I tried this one by hand and neither of them moved. Dont want to crank on it since it is a NIB one.
04-25-24, 01:36 PM
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If you mean "...they usually do..." for rear derailleurs other than Dura Ace, that may be the case.
Except for this first gen DA, they integrated the stop within the body.
This one looks a little wonky at the stop. Even the previous Crane version used the body.
Seems more likely to not absorb a jolt and then snap off, IMO. Then leave one out yonder with no shifting.
Although, as an aside, the Crane's cinching bolt rotated slightly.
Except for this first gen DA, they integrated the stop within the body.
This one looks a little wonky at the stop. Even the previous Crane version used the body.
Seems more likely to not absorb a jolt and then snap off, IMO. Then leave one out yonder with no shifting.
Although, as an aside, the Crane's cinching bolt rotated slightly.
04-25-24, 02:06 PM
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"Swivel" to me means the anchor bolt is mounted on a link or shaft that moves to have the cable better align as the der parallelogram goes through its arc as one shifts.
"Dont want to crank on it since it is a NIB one." to me means that the OP doesn't want to over tighten the anchor bolt/nut when clamping the cable in place.
Two different aspects of this area. Which is being asked about?
Lots of ders have had swiveling attachments of the anchor bolt assembly. Huret, Simples, Shimano and SunTour all used pivoting attachments of some of their friction lever intended ders. Note that "friction" reference. When indexing started to be The Way controlling the angles of the cable, as the der arced through it's range, became very important, to maintain an actuation ratio. This is why most every indexed der that I can think of has had a fixed anchor bolt, relative to the parallelogram and most also have a clamping plate/washer that has a tab which the cable needs to be oriented against "just so".
One can use a wrench with less leverage (like a nut driver VS a combo wrench) to lessen the possibility of over tightening the bolt/nut or use a torque wrench. The usual home method to figure out how tight the cable clamping needs to be is to under tighten the bolt/nut and tug firmly on the cable and watch for cable slipping within the clamp. If so slightly increase the tightening force and retest. Repeating as needed till the cable stay's firm. Andy (who nearly always find it "safer" to go from a not tight enough to a just enough tightness then start really tight first)
"Dont want to crank on it since it is a NIB one." to me means that the OP doesn't want to over tighten the anchor bolt/nut when clamping the cable in place.
Two different aspects of this area. Which is being asked about?
Lots of ders have had swiveling attachments of the anchor bolt assembly. Huret, Simples, Shimano and SunTour all used pivoting attachments of some of their friction lever intended ders. Note that "friction" reference. When indexing started to be The Way controlling the angles of the cable, as the der arced through it's range, became very important, to maintain an actuation ratio. This is why most every indexed der that I can think of has had a fixed anchor bolt, relative to the parallelogram and most also have a clamping plate/washer that has a tab which the cable needs to be oriented against "just so".
One can use a wrench with less leverage (like a nut driver VS a combo wrench) to lessen the possibility of over tightening the bolt/nut or use a torque wrench. The usual home method to figure out how tight the cable clamping needs to be is to under tighten the bolt/nut and tug firmly on the cable and watch for cable slipping within the clamp. If so slightly increase the tightening force and retest. Repeating as needed till the cable stay's firm. Andy (who nearly always find it "safer" to go from a not tight enough to a just enough tightness then start really tight first)
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
04-25-24, 03:55 PM
#4
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I answered my own question. They do not pivot.
Notice the pin that goes into the body on the right side of the "E" in dura ace? That prevents the cable clamp mount from pivoting. These pins were removed in the 4th gen version.
The "not wanting to crank" came from the fact that they can sometimes be stiff to rotate.
Notice the pin that goes into the body on the right side of the "E" in dura ace? That prevents the cable clamp mount from pivoting. These pins were removed in the 4th gen version.
The "not wanting to crank" came from the fact that they can sometimes be stiff to rotate.
