For the love of English 3 speeds...
06-01-21, 05:51 PM
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Rain or snow, 65 years old on a roadster. Love it!
A beautiful place.
A beautiful place.
06-01-21, 06:45 PM
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06-01-21, 07:25 PM
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The pedals were bad but there was a run on them about 25 years ago when a lot of guys were rebuilding their Raleigh Choppers. I saw NOS pars go for up to $100 when ebay was the wild west for auctions. I had a cool set in white on this Eatons Glider (Colt).
They were still crap but at least they looked good.
They were still crap but at least they looked good.
I've never seen them in white
06-01-21, 09:19 PM
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
06-02-21, 07:47 AM
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06-02-21, 11:01 AM
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I had a hell of a time deciding whether this belonged in the Wacky World of eBay thread or here, but I'd say there's enough redeeming qualities about this thing for it to go here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/274760670508
What happens when you smash a 1975/6 Lemon Yellow Sports into a Bronze Green 1973+ Raleigh Superbe? 1970's interior decor on a bike.
-Kurt
What happens when you smash a 1975/6 Lemon Yellow Sports into a Bronze Green 1973+ Raleigh Superbe? 1970's interior decor on a bike.
-Kurt
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06-02-21, 11:53 AM
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V
I've been working on the Resilion brakes on my recently acquired '52 Claud Butler Ladyback tandem. I began by removing the rear brakes and soaking them in Evaporust which worked nicely. Then, after much thought, I've decided to reproduce the complete housing/ cable assemblies, rather than cut the existing assembly apart to harvest the hardware and merely take the easy way out and just replace cables and housings. I'm a machinist so. It's a nice lunchtime project. I made drawings of all components and started with the hardest part, the sleeve where both cable ends feed out from the main cable coming from the brake levers. I need front and back. First I made a crimp tool to size the brass as it goes from round to oval where both ferrules fit inside. Then, using the original part, sized the tube from the round dimension, and drilled it so the wall thickness was matched.
Turns out the tube is actually stepped bigger, so the first run of parts didn't size up, but proved the aluminum crimp tool will work. After developing the correct diameter of blank on the second attempt, I used a harder hex brass I had for years...
Here's the original crimped fitting next to the correct size blank, but failed crimp, and the underdeveloped size, but good crimp. You can see the part on the left collapsed completely. On the second attempt, i supported the inside with keystock to prevent failure. It still failed. The nice crimps were on undersize formable brass.
Heres a shot of how much the wall collapsed with and without internal support. I made bigger stepped parts from harder brass, which I had, but the crimp failed due to material hardness. I've ordered the soft formable brass from Mcmaster-Carr and will be attempting more trickery soon.
From left to right; Revised size of barrel (2) This brass was easy to machine from hex stock i had previously. 1st attempt to crimp, but finished size was too small. Crimp tool worked okay. 2nd attempt with max dia from stock using formable brass. Aluminum crimp tool can be seen on the right.
Turns out the tube is actually stepped bigger, so the first run of parts didn't size up, but proved the aluminum crimp tool will work. After developing the correct diameter of blank on the second attempt, I used a harder hex brass I had for years...
Here's the original crimped fitting next to the correct size blank, but failed crimp, and the underdeveloped size, but good crimp. You can see the part on the left collapsed completely. On the second attempt, i supported the inside with keystock to prevent failure. It still failed. The nice crimps were on undersize formable brass.
Heres a shot of how much the wall collapsed with and without internal support. I made bigger stepped parts from harder brass, which I had, but the crimp failed due to material hardness. I've ordered the soft formable brass from Mcmaster-Carr and will be attempting more trickery soon.
From left to right; Revised size of barrel (2) This brass was easy to machine from hex stock i had previously. 1st attempt to crimp, but finished size was too small. Crimp tool worked okay. 2nd attempt with max dia from stock using formable brass. Aluminum crimp tool can be seen on the right.
06-02-21, 12:07 PM
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I had a hell of a time deciding whether this belonged in the Wacky World of eBay thread or here, but I'd say there's enough redeeming qualities about this thing for it to go here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/274760670508
What happens when you smash a 1975/6 Lemon Yellow Sports into a Bronze Green 1973+ Raleigh Superbe? 1970's interior decor on a bike.
-Kurt
What happens when you smash a 1975/6 Lemon Yellow Sports into a Bronze Green 1973+ Raleigh Superbe? 1970's interior decor on a bike.
-Kurt
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06-02-21, 01:25 PM
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I think it would be fun to have one of these where each part was a different factory original color.
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06-02-21, 01:38 PM
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06-02-21, 03:15 PM
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A couple of recent offerings here in Toronto
An interesting BSA Balmoral at a reasonable $200.00 (with the disliked pedals)
and...
A ladies DL-1 at a not so reasonable $900.00!!
An interesting BSA Balmoral at a reasonable $200.00 (with the disliked pedals)
and...
A ladies DL-1 at a not so reasonable $900.00!!
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06-02-21, 09:02 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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06-02-21, 09:22 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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06-03-21, 10:04 AM
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All the hardware is brass and plated brass on this girl, except the small threaded hex sleeves, which I'm making from brass. I'll not bother to plate anything, but might "age it" if it looks too shiny.
06-03-21, 02:49 PM
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A couple more Toronto listings
A decent DL-1 @ $300
A Raleigh built Glider @ $290.00
A decent DL-1 @ $300
A Raleigh built Glider @ $290.00
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06-03-21, 04:19 PM
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An English bike (a Bitsa) in a Canadian garden with a French gargoyle...
06-03-21, 05:22 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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06-03-21, 09:31 PM
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I had a hell of a time deciding whether this belonged in the Wacky World of eBay thread or here, but I'd say there's enough redeeming qualities about this thing for it to go here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/274760670508
What happens when you smash a 1975/6 Lemon Yellow Sports into a Bronze Green 1973+ Raleigh Superbe? 1970's interior decor on a bike.
-Kurt
What happens when you smash a 1975/6 Lemon Yellow Sports into a Bronze Green 1973+ Raleigh Superbe? 1970's interior decor on a bike.
-Kurt
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
06-03-21, 09:44 PM
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Jokes aside, that Favorit pulls it off a lot better.
Were those green Bluemels from one of those oddball early 1960's Superbes that came with these?
-Kurt
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06-04-21, 11:09 AM
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What a Tool!
I've had this pedal wrench for years. It's quite chewed up
but still works
I just noticed today that it's made by CYCLO.
I've had this pedal wrench for years. It's quite chewed up
but still works
I just noticed today that it's made by CYCLO.
06-05-21, 05:58 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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06-05-21, 08:34 PM
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If you really have to have a Dutch type opafiets, that's not a bad buy. They're a little bit different because of the parts they use and those drum brakes. Some people really like them, and some prefer the English variation, but the build quality usually is pretty good.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
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06-05-21, 08:53 PM
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Thanks to @dmark - who also took the pics - this Humber should be on its way to me soon. I'm taking a guess that it's a '48 at the latest due to the shifter - haven't seen the rear hub date or the Dynohub (I think it's an 8 volt GH8) - and I snapped it up just because how utterly perfect it is. A couple of flaws, yes, but examples this nice don't come around often. Only downside are galvanized spokes that don't look too good. The rims don't match the perfection of the frame either. Might have to rebuild those at some point.
No bifurcated fork on this (I suspect the factory ran out and went with standard forks), and even though it's a rod brake model, it rolls on 26x1-3/8" wheels, as some pre-1950s models were.I'm guessing it's rough equivalent to what's shown in the 1936 catalog as the Dawn Tourist X - the only rod-brake chaincase model with EA3 wheels: https://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?...geViewsIndex=1 EDIT: Cob X Tourist, basically the Humber equivalent to the Dawn Tourist X: https://threespeedhub.com/wp-content/...og-1936-UK.pdf
FYI, @dmark is looking for a rear wheel or 40 hole 1950's Raleigh Westrick rim for a Rudge that has a Westwood on it at the moment.
-Kurt
No bifurcated fork on this (I suspect the factory ran out and went with standard forks), and even though it's a rod brake model, it rolls on 26x1-3/8" wheels, as some pre-1950s models were.
FYI, @dmark is looking for a rear wheel or 40 hole 1950's Raleigh Westrick rim for a Rudge that has a Westwood on it at the moment.
-Kurt
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Last edited by cudak888; 06-05-21 at 08:59 PM.
06-05-21, 11:05 PM
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Look what just came into the bike Exchange
Ho hum, just another Ladies Raleigh 3 speed.
But look again . This is a 24" Raleigh Space Rider, with a Sturmey Archer 3 speed and coaster brake.
I already stripped it down and will start cleaning and polishing everything tomorrow.
It looks like it was hardly ridden and probably kept indoors . Good paint, minimal rust. Still weighs a bloody ton - 37 lbs. to be exact.
Some little girl is going to get a very special bike when it is done.
Ho hum, just another Ladies Raleigh 3 speed.
But look again . This is a 24" Raleigh Space Rider, with a Sturmey Archer 3 speed and coaster brake.
I already stripped it down and will start cleaning and polishing everything tomorrow.
It looks like it was hardly ridden and probably kept indoors . Good paint, minimal rust. Still weighs a bloody ton - 37 lbs. to be exact.
Some little girl is going to get a very special bike when it is done.
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06-06-21, 08:33 AM
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couple of continuing projects
Both of these bikes are typical "Bitsa" builds
Bits from here
Bits from there
A 1961 Superbe that was dropped off at my house a while back/
It had been painted (poorly) and while stripping it I decided to
leave the frame as is.
It's got a 61 hub and an EA1 front rim/tire .
I'm not sure why, but I guess that's what I had available at the time.
A stamped eye on the heron chain ring indicates 1961 or earlier.
Rides and shifts well.
I'm taking it out today for a 30 mile ride.
This one's a bit of a mess.
It's a Raleigh 10 speed frame (24")
running another 61 hub with a Gyes leather saddle.
The wheels are out of proportion and I'm thinking of finding another
23" Frame and swapping parts over and giving/trading this frame to
a friend.
At one point it was set up as a single speed coaster brake but that back wheel
went to a more deserving project for a neighbour.
Both of these bikes are typical "Bitsa" builds
Bits from here
Bits from there
A 1961 Superbe that was dropped off at my house a while back/
It had been painted (poorly) and while stripping it I decided to
leave the frame as is.
It's got a 61 hub and an EA1 front rim/tire .
I'm not sure why, but I guess that's what I had available at the time.
A stamped eye on the heron chain ring indicates 1961 or earlier.
Rides and shifts well.
I'm taking it out today for a 30 mile ride.
This one's a bit of a mess.
It's a Raleigh 10 speed frame (24")
running another 61 hub with a Gyes leather saddle.
The wheels are out of proportion and I'm thinking of finding another
23" Frame and swapping parts over and giving/trading this frame to
a friend.
At one point it was set up as a single speed coaster brake but that back wheel
went to a more deserving project for a neighbour.
Last edited by gster; 06-06-21 at 07:18 PM.