What have you been wrenching on lately?
#4551
Hoards Thumbshifters
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New shoes...
Put big tires on my wife's MTB
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#4552
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My experience with stuck seatposts tells me that one cut, fully through to the steel, will allow the post/stem remnant to be easily tapped loose.
But even the tiniest bridge of aluminum along the cut will maintain the compressive bond, preventing the stub from budging.
Due to the internally tapered/stepped bore of the steerer, I believe that the tip of a blade is going to be needed to cut clean to the steel along the slot.
The teeth of the blade will only ever glance off of the steel, getting no bite, but if the blade is nice and sharp at it's tip then it will keep cutting the aluminum even at low levels of contact force.
But even the tiniest bridge of aluminum along the cut will maintain the compressive bond, preventing the stub from budging.
Due to the internally tapered/stepped bore of the steerer, I believe that the tip of a blade is going to be needed to cut clean to the steel along the slot.
The teeth of the blade will only ever glance off of the steel, getting no bite, but if the blade is nice and sharp at it's tip then it will keep cutting the aluminum even at low levels of contact force.
Stem remnant on the left, improvised punch on the right
I tell myself the cuts helped but probably not
The steerer awaiting a pass of a brake cylinder hone
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#4553
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I’ve been struggling with this wheel.
I’ve probably built a dozen or so wheelsets over the years, so not a ton of experience, but a bit. Always used sturdy rims and plenty of spokes, and I’ve always had good luck. This one has been different. I wasn’t impressed with the Chinese made Sun CR-18 even before I built it, but not sure if that was the problem. I had to get the drive side way too tight to get the dish right, and the non-drive would loosen on rides. I had borrowed a tensionometer a few wheels ago, so I went ahead and ordered one to see if it would help me make sense of this wheel. It really helped me get the tension evened-out, and I think it’s acceptable now, but time (or miles) will tell.
I thought it was interesting that I used DT 2.0-1.8-2.0 butted spokes, but the spoke diameter gauge shows the middle of the spoke at 1.7.
I’ve probably built a dozen or so wheelsets over the years, so not a ton of experience, but a bit. Always used sturdy rims and plenty of spokes, and I’ve always had good luck. This one has been different. I wasn’t impressed with the Chinese made Sun CR-18 even before I built it, but not sure if that was the problem. I had to get the drive side way too tight to get the dish right, and the non-drive would loosen on rides. I had borrowed a tensionometer a few wheels ago, so I went ahead and ordered one to see if it would help me make sense of this wheel. It really helped me get the tension evened-out, and I think it’s acceptable now, but time (or miles) will tell.
I thought it was interesting that I used DT 2.0-1.8-2.0 butted spokes, but the spoke diameter gauge shows the middle of the spoke at 1.7.
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#4554
Hoards Thumbshifters
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I’ve been struggling with this wheel.
I’ve probably built a dozen or so wheelsets over the years, so not a ton of experience, but a bit. Always used sturdy rims and plenty of spokes, and I’ve always had good luck. This one has been different. I wasn’t impressed with the Chinese made Sun CR-18 even before I built it, but not sure if that was the problem. I had to get the drive side way too tight to get the dish right, and the non-drive would loosen on rides. I had borrowed a tensionometer a few wheels ago, so I went ahead and ordered one to see if it would help me make sense of this wheel. It really helped me get the tension evened-out, and I think it’s acceptable now, but time (or miles) will tell.
I thought it was interesting that I used DT 2.0-1.8-2.0 butted spokes, but the spoke diameter gauge shows the middle of the spoke at 1.7.
I’ve probably built a dozen or so wheelsets over the years, so not a ton of experience, but a bit. Always used sturdy rims and plenty of spokes, and I’ve always had good luck. This one has been different. I wasn’t impressed with the Chinese made Sun CR-18 even before I built it, but not sure if that was the problem. I had to get the drive side way too tight to get the dish right, and the non-drive would loosen on rides. I had borrowed a tensionometer a few wheels ago, so I went ahead and ordered one to see if it would help me make sense of this wheel. It really helped me get the tension evened-out, and I think it’s acceptable now, but time (or miles) will tell.
I thought it was interesting that I used DT 2.0-1.8-2.0 butted spokes, but the spoke diameter gauge shows the middle of the spoke at 1.7.
****edit: looked it up, seems like this is true****
Last edited by mechanicmatt; 10-03-21 at 01:59 PM.
#4555
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Chinese made? Did Sun Rims move this to China? I always thought CR-18's were US made. I have a pair on my main rider (US made, silver, 700C) and while they do come out of true, I can get them super straight again and again. I will say that the machine sidewall version (US made, 26") is a better version of them though.
****edit: looked it up, seems like this is true****
****edit: looked it up, seems like this is true****
#4556
Senior Member
I finished a total rehab of the Falcon San Remo last night.
#4557
buy my bikes
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Down Tube shifter bosses
Removed cable stops - apparently there were attached with silver braze. One fell off with a little heat. The other came off so fast it took me by surprise. It fell in the pocket of my shop apron. I grabbed the apron to hold it away from me while I waited for it to burn through my pocket. My wife keeps our insurance up to date.
Added DT shifter bosses
man, I hope I got things center & even….
Time for clean up!
Added DT shifter bosses
man, I hope I got things center & even….
Time for clean up!
#4558
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I finally got around to fine tuning a set of 7700/CXP33 wheels that have been feeling a bit off. My attempts a truing were thwarted by a few frozen alloy nipples on the DT Comp spokes. I hate alloy nipples. I was mentally preparing to exchange all for brass as I grabbed each spoke (4 in total) with visegrips near the nipple and from inside the rim backed off the nipple with a screwdriver. Slow going but I was successful. Tension is a bit off in one spot (15 vs 17 on my park gauge). Should be ok and they look great.
#4559
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Got Sheldon's tool out and the $1.98 St. Vinny's Craftsman. And a three foot length of 2 inch PVC sleeved over the Craftsman as the cheater bar.
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#4560
Hoards Thumbshifters
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Been a long time coming...
This is the frame I earned back in my high school bike shop days. Needed something for the muddy trails near me. I've given up on a more modern Stumpjumper (2007) and swapped all the best stuff to this Rockadile (1997). Only special new thing is Soma Dream bars. They're huge. Everything else is what I have. I wish I had an old school brake stiffener for the back though, rear stays are flexy under braking. Wet day here on the mountain.
#4561
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Nearly done with this one. Had an 11th hour change to upgraded brakes, which will entail a little light drilling to accommodate the recessed nut. Other than that, I think it’s done.
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#4562
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I put this beautiful Sun crankset on my Mercian Pro, replacing the Ultegra 6600 that was on it since 2007. It’s better suited to the hills that are on the road ahead, and the aesthetic is perfect.
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1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
#4563
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It’s done
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#4566
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With a 34.5" inseam, I normally ride a 63, but as I get older, I think a '53 will fit me much better...
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I'd like to do that to an old bike finish, paint chips and all.
#4568
...
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I saw the frame poking out from the bottom of a junk pile in front of a closed business. I wanted to get deeper in the fixing thing, and thought this beater might be the path to bottom brackets, headsets, and frame painting.
It's a '83 Schwinn Traveler lugged steelie, Giant made, and in horrible condition. Before I finished disassembly, the bike taught me it's first lesson; don't work on totally trashed bikes. 😀
Now the thing is stripped and primed, I'm having fun.
It's a '83 Schwinn Traveler lugged steelie, Giant made, and in horrible condition. Before I finished disassembly, the bike taught me it's first lesson; don't work on totally trashed bikes. 😀
Now the thing is stripped and primed, I'm having fun.
#4569
Senior Member
I'm not sure if this counts as "wrenching", but it does involve tools, rubber tubing, wires, and gluing my fingers together at one point.
My youngest son follows a web series called Project 863. In this series, there is a villain named "The Phantom" who wears a facemask. He wanted this to be his Halloween costume, so I gathered some stuff, and have been putting it all together. Finished it the other night and took some pictures of the final product.
Photo for inspiration
All the parts
post assembly
lighting test
costume test
My youngest son follows a web series called Project 863. In this series, there is a villain named "The Phantom" who wears a facemask. He wanted this to be his Halloween costume, so I gathered some stuff, and have been putting it all together. Finished it the other night and took some pictures of the final product.
Photo for inspiration
All the parts
post assembly
lighting test
costume test
#4570
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No kidding, great vibe and I think you need a white or silver Silca to close the deal.
I think most any and all C+V need a Silca, just for looks whether they work or not.
All mine work ok and would get me home, I can usually get them functional no matter what, I do have several that work just fine too so....
Or you could pop for a new style.
#4571
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Originally Posted by merziac;[url=tel:22262693
22262693]
No kidding, great vibe and I think you need a white or silver Silca to close the deal.
I think most any and all C+V need a Silca, just for looks whether they work or not.
All mine work ok and would get me home, I can usually get them functional no matter what, I do have several that work just fine too so....
Or you could pop for a new style.
No kidding, great vibe and I think you need a white or silver Silca to close the deal.
I think most any and all C+V need a Silca, just for looks whether they work or not.
All mine work ok and would get me home, I can usually get them functional no matter what, I do have several that work just fine too so....
Or you could pop for a new style.
I have a silver Silca on my chrome Pro Mk. I and the allure is real. I’ve been a Zefal HP fanboy since they came out. I had a HP-X that I stripped and polished that looked pretty good but I lost it. I dream of refinishing one and applying some Mercian transfers I got from nlerner but if you’re offering…
__________________
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
Last edited by ascherer; 10-08-21 at 03:53 PM. Reason: Added pic
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#4572
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I have a silver Silca on my chrome Pro Mk. I and the allure is real. I’ve been a Zefal HP fanboy since they came out. I had a HP-X that I stripped and polished that looked pretty good but I lost it. I dream of refinishing one and applying some Mercian transfers I got from nlerner but if you’re offering…
Always on the lookout for good deals that are kind of few and far between.
#4573
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I just finished hacking away at this one some more.
New Dura Ace 9100 bottom bracket, new KMC 10 speed xl chain, and used but mint Dura Ace 12-25 10 speed cassette. While I had things apart I also cleaned every bit of grease and grit off the crank. I also took apart the jockey cage on the RD, removed the pulleys, cleaned it all up, and regreased it. I also found the replaceable hanger for the RD loose and tightened that down. Lost another massive 3 ozs with the parts changes. Getting closer to being under 17 lbs. Hopefully the drivetrain issues are sorted out now and this one will show the speed it should be capable of. Although I do want to get the bearing replaced in the wheels too. With all the grit I've been finding deep on this one I wonder if they are a mess too despite feeling ok.
Didn't realize the hollowtech BB's were now down to a 39mm diameter so I had to order in a new BB tool for this one. Never really a bad thing when you have to get new tools.
New Dura Ace 9100 bottom bracket, new KMC 10 speed xl chain, and used but mint Dura Ace 12-25 10 speed cassette. While I had things apart I also cleaned every bit of grease and grit off the crank. I also took apart the jockey cage on the RD, removed the pulleys, cleaned it all up, and regreased it. I also found the replaceable hanger for the RD loose and tightened that down. Lost another massive 3 ozs with the parts changes. Getting closer to being under 17 lbs. Hopefully the drivetrain issues are sorted out now and this one will show the speed it should be capable of. Although I do want to get the bearing replaced in the wheels too. With all the grit I've been finding deep on this one I wonder if they are a mess too despite feeling ok.
Didn't realize the hollowtech BB's were now down to a 39mm diameter so I had to order in a new BB tool for this one. Never really a bad thing when you have to get new tools.
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Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
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#4575
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