Piff 

Is it possible to replace the 10/11 speed freehub body on the Shimano 105 R7000 hub to a 7-speed freehub body? Reason is because my frame cannot be spread from 126mm to 130mm (Reynolds 753).

Thanks!

Link to hub in question: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ.../FH-R7000.html

Kontact 

Maybe, but I kind of doubt there is a R7000 compatible freehub in 7 speed available. You could always just remove axle length on the NDS side and re-dish, but that hub is already very dished.

753 is apparently difficult/impossible to cold set to 130, but there is absolutely no reason you can't just spring it open to 130 when you insert the wheel. Each side with certainly tolerate deflecting 2mms.

Or just get a different wheelset.

After comparing dimensions with 11 speed hubs, I made an 10 speed Shimano hub 126mm wide for use in an old Cannondale (hard to spring). This worked well because the dish was the same as current 11 speed hubs.

Piff 

I could just stuff a wheel in there...but I don't want to. 753 frames are well known to crack at the chainstay.

Looking around online there seems to be a supply of shimano 7-speed freehub bodies, I just don't the proper interface for the R7000 body.

Kontact 

Yeah, it would be best to just sell your wheels and buy or build new ones.

Piff 

I think you're almost certainly right that the R7000 hub doesn't have the same interface as an older 7 speed freehub. I'm hoping it will work since there's a nice wheel set for sale local to me that would be nice to use and save some $$. It's been very difficult to find any info on the newer model freehub though.

Iride01 

Are you certain what's on the old bike is a 7 speed free hub and cassette?

7 speeds can also be a freewheel. And those are very inexpensive and very likely any you can get today will still thread on to that same hub you currently have.

Or is it that your wheel is bad other than the free hub or freewheel being messed up?

Kontact 

What old wheel? The OP has a frame and is considering a wheelset to build it up. He hasn't mentioned any other wheel of any kind.

Iride01 

You might be correct, but that's still not a given from the way the OP wrote it.

KCT1986

The R7000 uses the new interface and likely was never commonly used in the 7 speed era. A freehub body that is less than 11 speed and the uses what appears to be the 'new' interface is the FH-7900. Not sure if it is exactly the same though. Additionally, the 7900 uses the new bearing/axle configuration, not the same as R7000.

The newer series of FHs don't use a lot spacer washers so manipulation is somewhat limited.

Piff 

Thank you for the confirmation that my hoped-for intentions would not have worked. Oh well!

easyupbug 

I bought a custom Reynolds 753 bike just for the DA groupset as it was squirrely to ride to say the least and cheap. Cleary the fork was bent and everytime I tried to straighten it it would pop back when loaded. Our old time framebuilder in town who has done frames for me, Andy Gilmour, said bring it in as 753 can be adjusted and stay that way. He used his Marchetti frame table Laing fork table and I now have 1,000s of miles on that frame. Here it is years later:

Kontact 

I would imagine that 753, being hardened, is hard to set because it acts like a spring - and that means flexing it a lot further than you are going to be comfortable with to get it to permanently bend. But all steels will eventually bend.

easyupbug 

That is exactly what Andy said when I explained my problem and to disregard the Reynolds tech sheet for 753 that says - "Setting" is virtually impossible other than for minute movements, and must be avoided.

icemilkcoffee 

These newer all black wheels would look out of place on the classic frame anyways. Just go with a proper 126mm silver hub

Piff 

I 100% agree with you, the wheelset in question was a nice retro-modern setup with silver 105 hubs and silver H+ SON rims. Handbuilt by Black Mountain Cycles, never used, $300

Unfortunately, won't work with my frame

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop...685601948.html

KCT1986

There are only a few 8/9/10 freehubs that use the 'new' interface but to get it to work on the R7000 you would have to rework/replace the whole cone/spacer/locknut configuration to respace it down to 126 OLD without significantly affecting the dish. It is possible, but probably not worth the trouble.

Piff 

You're both correct in regards to 753 being able to bend if you know what you're doing. My fork also was slightly buggered. Took it in to Erik Billings here in Oakland and he set it right, though it took some real pulling/pushing to get the fork legs to move even just a few mm.

70sSanO

I do not know when the freehub interface changed, but I was able to fit a 7 speed 105 UG/HG freehub body on a 105 5700 130mm hub without issue. The freehub body/hub splines are identical.

The key is getting the correct freehub/body shoulder thickness and the freehub DS cones to make the swap. It is quite easy to mix-n-match once you marry the correct depth.

John

KCT1986

On Shimano road hubs, the change to the 'new' interface mostly happened when 11 speed came out or when the axle type/material changed. There are exceptions, 7900 (10sp) used 'new', 5800/R7000 'new' has steel axles, newer 8/9/10 hubs sometimes have 'new' (3500, 2400, ...).

MTB hubs also have a few with 'new', the models with aluminum axles for example. Prebuilt Shimano wheels have varying types of freehub body setups.

Have to look at the Shimano EV docs to verify.

70sSanO

KCT1986 , Thanks.

John

squirtdad

What did he say about the cold setting? Could even getting it to 128 or so be workable? thinking out loud

Piff 

Y'know, I didn't ask about doing anything to a frame. I also talked to Dale Saso in Alameda who said, though he hadn't worked 753, it probably should be possible to correct the fork since it was given a curve when it was originally built.

And I'm remembering something else Erik said, about how the frame anneals when bent and becomes overworked. He's worked on bending 753 and 853 steel, but I don't know if that includes frames, or just forks.

And according to the Reynolds tubing distributor, Andy Newlands of Strawberry Cycles, he said to take 753 to Paul Sadoff from Rock Lobster. When I emailed Paul he seemed confident about working on 753, or at the very least starting a discussion rather than saying "No" outright.


I have read elsewhere online of people asking highly knowledgable and practiced frame builders to spread the rear dropouts to 130mm from 126mm, but I've got to believe that those frames were likely 753r rather than the original, thinner, 753 or 753t that was phased out as time went on.

frdfandc

This is why I went with 853 for my last mountain bike. So in the event that I need to realign the bike for some strange reason, it could be done if the damaged wasn't bad.

Kontact 

I agree that the safe thing to do is go with 126 spacing, and not bending or springing your frame. You can do that up to 10 speeds with an older Shimano hub. What is stopping you from getting an appropriate wheelset?

Piff 

Nothing preventing me from getting a proper 126mm wheelset, I just was looking at potentially grabbing a wheelset because it was very nice quality for a low price and was hoping it could be altered to meet my needs.

After finding out this wouldn't work, I went ahead with my original plan of making my own. 126mm OLD 7-speed hyperglide compatible hubs in good condition are becoming quite hard to find for a reasonable price...so I'll be sticking with freewheels. I picked a large number of 7-speed suntour accushift parts in very good condition for less than they usually go ($5 Suntour Winner Pro freewheels! Snagged 8 of them). So I should be set for many thousand miles even though good freewheels are also gettin scarce.

Plan is for some Shimano dura ace 7400 hubs laced up to Dt swiss r460 rims. I'd like to get H+ Son TB14 rims, of course, but they're just too expensive.