Rusting Stem Hardware
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Rusting Stem Hardware
Cycling the seacoast is great, but the downside is the salty sea air. We have stem hardware rusting on our bicycles. How easy is it to find replacement bolts for the steering tube interface as well as the handlebar connection.
The FSA SL/K uses two(2) 4mm hex head screws to secure on the steerer and four(4) 4mm hex head screws for securing the handlebar, while a KAlloy stem uses two(2) 5mm hex head bolts to secure to the steerer and two(2) 4mm hex head bolts to secure the handlebar.
I do see some sources for these small parts but not necessarily OEM. Ritchey stem bolts look the closest to those used in our stems. How have others found replacements for these rusting bolts?
The FSA SL/K uses two(2) 4mm hex head screws to secure on the steerer and four(4) 4mm hex head screws for securing the handlebar, while a KAlloy stem uses two(2) 5mm hex head bolts to secure to the steerer and two(2) 4mm hex head bolts to secure the handlebar.
I do see some sources for these small parts but not necessarily OEM. Ritchey stem bolts look the closest to those used in our stems. How have others found replacements for these rusting bolts?
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Most of those bolts can be found in Stainless Steel versions at many Hardware stores and many ACE hardware stores carry a good selection. Only issue that might pop up is that some of the original fasteners on some stems have smaller than standard outside diameter heads so bring the original bolts with you to match. Ebay may also have some sellers offering the smaller head kits to fit your stems. You can also use any kind of waxy lubricant/spray on the exposed parts and grease on the threads to prevent corrosion. Rinsing off with plain water every so often to flush off the salt will also help. I live near the ocean and my neighbor rarely wet cleans his bike but I do every couple months and both our bikes are about the same age but most of his parts are covered in rust and mine aren't. Both bikes are stored indoors in nearly identical circumstances. bike bolts stem for sale | eBay Stay away from aluminum and Titanium will be less corrosive for a little more $$. I would avoid the direct-from-China bolts as it's always an unknown about the quality of the threads and strength.
Last edited by Crankycrank; 10-11-23 at 05:56 PM.
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I do think stainless may be the road to go. Just difficult getting the same size and shape bolts.
#4
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If there's an option pony up a little bit more money for 316 stainless vs 304 stainless . There's molybdenum in it making it more corrosion resistant. 304 will rust in a salt air environment, whereas 316 will not.
Last edited by Hank McMauser; 10-11-23 at 11:49 PM.
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The OP has incorrectly identified their screws by mentioning the size of the tool bit, not the identifying bolt threads.
Most, if not all, handlebar and stem fasteners are either metric M5 or M6, any common socket head cap screw will work. Upgrades would be stainless or titanium.
Most big box hardware stores will only typical have hex bolt fasteners, intended for open wrenches. The only times I use these bolts is for mud guard fenders. They are cheap zinc only, never stainless, never require crazy torque like Grade12.9 screws.
Most, if not all, handlebar and stem fasteners are either metric M5 or M6, any common socket head cap screw will work. Upgrades would be stainless or titanium.
Most big box hardware stores will only typical have hex bolt fasteners, intended for open wrenches. The only times I use these bolts is for mud guard fenders. They are cheap zinc only, never stainless, never require crazy torque like Grade12.9 screws.
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#6
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Here in Florida near the coast our local Ace hardware stores , and Lowe's/Home Depot Carry a pretty full line of stainless hardware. I'd take the old ones in and match them up with the thread checker. I was able to get new stainless water bottle screws 3/98 cents . They're more than likely going to be 304 as mentioned above.
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Titanium, on the other hand, is very resistant to chloride corrosion even at ambient temperatures. Even at high temperatures, titanium is very resistant to chloride corrosion. It is widely used in chemical plants for it corrosion resistance. Basically it is corrosion proof although softer than steel.
“Stainless” steel comes in may grades but even 316L isn’t all that resistant to chloride corrosion. 316L is not commonly available for stainless bolts, however. 316 stainless is the second most commonly used stainless for bolts but is less resistant to chloride corrosion. 304 is the most commonly used stainless and has a lower chloride corrosion resistance than either 316 or 316L.
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I wouldn't say I misidentified the needed bolts. Yes I focused on the tool needed and indeed they are M5 bolts for the most part, however the bolts securing the KAlloy stem to the steerer appear to be M6 and require a 5mm wrench. Seems unusual that the bolts securing to the steerer are not the same M5 bolts that secure the bars.
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Try McMaster-Carr, if they don’t have it good luck!
Tim
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Sadly, the place I got the hardware (Toronto Cycles) seems to have gone belly-up during the pandemic.
Titanium chainring hardware on the right; original stainless steel on the left.
Titanium brake hardware doesn't corrode.
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Yes, they have almost every fastener available but nothing resembling a stem bolt. I even once purchased an item from them that allowed me to fix a bottle boss on a carbon downtube.
Turns out my FSA SL/K requires a bolt with a conical washer so the bolts look to be very proprietary. Seems Ritchey has some stems with similar bolts.
Turns out my FSA SL/K requires a bolt with a conical washer so the bolts look to be very proprietary. Seems Ritchey has some stems with similar bolts.
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