Spreading 126mm dropouts to 142.5 ?
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Spreading 126mm dropouts to 142.5 ?
I'm assuming this is ill-advised, but figured I'd ask. Steel frame, obviously. And if that's too far to safely spread, would 130 work? How far is too far?
Basically, I'm trying to find an excuse for myself to buy this Maxi-Car hub with a drum brake to build a touring/camping bike around. I don't have the money to get a custom frame, so I'm only going to bid on the hub if I can safely adapt a vintage (non-tandem) frame to fit it.
Basically, I'm trying to find an excuse for myself to buy this Maxi-Car hub with a drum brake to build a touring/camping bike around. I don't have the money to get a custom frame, so I'm only going to bid on the hub if I can safely adapt a vintage (non-tandem) frame to fit it.
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My otherwise lovely Mercian has a dent in the seat stay where a previous owner tried to go from 126 to 135. It was repaired by a different previous owner at a reputable shop and set to 130. I suspect a similar fate for whatever bike to which you try to do this. It’s a cool hub, to be sure, but, well, it’s for a tandem.
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Safest would be to cut the bridges, respace the dropouts, and install new, longer bridges. Assuming a steel frame, of course. All bets are off if it's not steel.
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I'm assuming this is ill-advised, but figured I'd ask. Steel frame, obviously. And if that's too far to safely spread, would 130 work? How far is too far?
Basically, I'm trying to find an excuse for myself to buy this Maxi-Car hub with a drum brake to build a touring/camping bike around. I don't have the money to get a custom frame, so I'm only going to bid on the hub if I can safely adapt a vintage (non-tandem) frame to fit it.
Basically, I'm trying to find an excuse for myself to buy this Maxi-Car hub with a drum brake to build a touring/camping bike around. I don't have the money to get a custom frame, so I'm only going to bid on the hub if I can safely adapt a vintage (non-tandem) frame to fit it.
I would think cold setting is a big no, while you’d have to replace the bridges and bend the chain stays out a bit more gracefully.
...anything I said was non expert postulation though!
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
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Thanks y'all, I didn't think to specify but I meant cold setting, not cutting and re-brazing. Sounds like it's definitely a no. Oh well!
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I did 126 to 135 once using the sheldon method.(2x4, one on side at a time) it was on a 82 Nishki, olmpic 12. do cromo double butted pretty long chains stays, but another 7.5 mm and depend on it for touring.... nope for me
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I cold set my Pro Tour from 120 to 135. It was nerve wracking, especially since I'd never undertaken such a thing, but it's been problem free for 9 years.
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If an old MTB is not too heavy, they start at 130? With Cantilever brakes you can toss the bridges.
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I spread a 531 Austro Daimler from 120 to 130 using a 2x4. Works just fine 7000 miles later.
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The missing parameters are the alloy of the steel and whether or not it is heat treated. Stronger steels require more force to bend them. They're also more resilient, having more spring back, which requires them to be deflected further beyond the set distance. Finally, they'll also be thinner. Consequently, the probability of creasing the stays, rather than bending them, increases with better grades of steel and larger amounts of cold set.
I'd probably attempt this with a low carbon and maybe even hi-tensile frame. I don't think I'd try it with chromium-molybdenum or manganese-molybdenum and I definitely wouldn't try it on any heat treated steels.
I'd probably attempt this with a low carbon and maybe even hi-tensile frame. I don't think I'd try it with chromium-molybdenum or manganese-molybdenum and I definitely wouldn't try it on any heat treated steels.
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