Shimano 105 r7000 system chain is catching and skipping
#1
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Shimano 105 r7000 system chain is catching and skipping
I'm really puzzled at this. It is a nearly brand new system. At every gear when I pedal forward the chain will slightly catch on the derailleur cage. When I pedal backwards it will catch on the derailleur cage and pull it forward. I've tried adjusting the h and l limit screws but it keeps on doing this.
Is this because it is 11 speed? What is going on.
Is this because it is 11 speed? What is going on.
#2
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Catches on the RD cage and pulls it forward? You are pedaling the wrong way. Though the cage getting pulled forward might be an indication the free wheel isn't as free wheeling as it should be. Maybe your size FW shouldn't have that spacer put on behind the cassette and the lockring is rubbing on the drops.
If this is a new installation by a shop, then by all means take it back to them so they know they screwed up. It also lets them take responsibility just in case there has been some damage or just something that needs warranty replacement.
If this is a new installation by a shop, then by all means take it back to them so they know they screwed up. It also lets them take responsibility just in case there has been some damage or just something that needs warranty replacement.
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First of all and MOST IMPORTANT, the limit screws have NOTHING to do with shifting. Their sole purpose is to set the end limits of travel so the RD doesn't overshoot into the wheel, or off the small end of the cassette.
I start here because you may now be at risk of shifting the RD into the spokes, which is not a minor thing.
Now, sticking to basics with the limited info provided, it's most likely a trim issue, especially since you have the same problem on multiple sprockets.
Trim is adjusted using the cable barrel adjuster. Search the net for a tutorial for adjusting trim, then do the same to be sure to correct the limit settings.
I start here because you may now be at risk of shifting the RD into the spokes, which is not a minor thing.
Now, sticking to basics with the limited info provided, it's most likely a trim issue, especially since you have the same problem on multiple sprockets.
Trim is adjusted using the cable barrel adjuster. Search the net for a tutorial for adjusting trim, then do the same to be sure to correct the limit settings.
Last edited by FBinNY; 07-20-23 at 08:17 PM.
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#5
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If that is a Shimano chain, make sure the lettering is on the outside, i.e., facing away from the bike. Their chains are asymmetric. Also make sure the quick link is locked in properly. I need to use the Park Tool pliers for 11 speed.
If that is not a Shimano chain, try using a Shimano XTR/Dura Ace level chain, with the lettering facing outward and the quicklink properly installed.
If that is not a Shimano chain, try using a Shimano XTR/Dura Ace level chain, with the lettering facing outward and the quicklink properly installed.
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There's something very wrong with your chain (stiff links), judging by the looks of it between the two pulleys in the first pic. And yes...why are you touching the limit screws??
#7
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If that is a Shimano chain, make sure the lettering is on the outside, i.e., facing away from the bike. Their chains are asymmetric. Also make sure the quick link is locked in properly. I need to use the Park Tool pliers for 11 speed.
If that is not a Shimano chain, try using a Shimano XTR/Dura Ace level chain, with the lettering facing outward and the quicklink properly installed.
If that is not a Shimano chain, try using a Shimano XTR/Dura Ace level chain, with the lettering facing outward and the quicklink properly installed.
I do have an official chain. I'll try that today
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Recommend you check both chains (even the "official" Shimano chain) with a wear tester to ensure that the pitch is what it ought to be. You'll also want to check the chain width to ensure it's really an 11-speed compatible chain. External width should be 5.5 – 5.62 mm. If any one of the links is wider than 5.62 mm you may experience issues with derailleur cage clearance.
There have been a lot of counterfeit Shimano, SRAM and KMC chains popping up on eBay and Amazon. Those chains are most often made in the PROC, to indifferent quality standards - which is why they shift poorly and why they skip cogs under load.
#10
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I checked the website, and Toseek (a manufacturer of cheap carbon bike parts) doesn't appear to make chains. They may farm out the job to some industrial chain supplier in the PROC (where Toseek is based). For what it's worth, your chain looks like it was spray-painted.
Recommend you check both chains (even the "official" Shimano chain) with a wear tester to ensure that the pitch is what it ought to be. You'll also want to check the chain width to ensure it's really an 11-speed compatible chain. External width should be 5.5 – 5.62 mm. If any one of the links is wider than 5.62 mm you may experience issues with derailleur cage clearance.
There have been a lot of counterfeit Shimano, SRAM and KMC chains popping up on eBay and Amazon. Those chains are most often made in the PROC, to indifferent quality standards - which is why they shift poorly and why they skip cogs under load.
Recommend you check both chains (even the "official" Shimano chain) with a wear tester to ensure that the pitch is what it ought to be. You'll also want to check the chain width to ensure it's really an 11-speed compatible chain. External width should be 5.5 – 5.62 mm. If any one of the links is wider than 5.62 mm you may experience issues with derailleur cage clearance.
There have been a lot of counterfeit Shimano, SRAM and KMC chains popping up on eBay and Amazon. Those chains are most often made in the PROC, to indifferent quality standards - which is why they shift poorly and why they skip cogs under load.
#11
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Thread Starter
Okay, I installed an “official” AFAIKT shimano 11 speed chain. It is pointing in the right direction.
This has largely solved the problem of the derailleur hanger catching. It has largely solved it but it still does catch a little. It doesn’t catch enough to pull it back but it is noticeable and it is a little bit of grinding.
11 speed ******g sucks is my conclusion. I think Shimano was forced to engineer the chain this way because the tolerances of the system and the angles were so extreme.
In my experience, I am thinking that the even numbered systems work the best while the odd numbered systems were problematic. My 10 speed microshift system works beautifully, best shifting system I’ve ever used. My 8 speed Claris system also works well. The 9 speed and 11 speed systems have never felt really solid compared to the 8 and 10 speed systems.
This has largely solved the problem of the derailleur hanger catching. It has largely solved it but it still does catch a little. It doesn’t catch enough to pull it back but it is noticeable and it is a little bit of grinding.
11 speed ******g sucks is my conclusion. I think Shimano was forced to engineer the chain this way because the tolerances of the system and the angles were so extreme.
In my experience, I am thinking that the even numbered systems work the best while the odd numbered systems were problematic. My 10 speed microshift system works beautifully, best shifting system I’ve ever used. My 8 speed Claris system also works well. The 9 speed and 11 speed systems have never felt really solid compared to the 8 and 10 speed systems.
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Okay, I installed an “official” AFAIKT shimano 11 speed chain. It is pointing in the right direction.
This has largely solved the problem of the derailleur hanger catching. It has largely solved it but it still does catch a little. It doesn’t catch enough to pull it back but it is noticeable and it is a little bit of grinding.
11 speed ******g sucks is my conclusion. I think Shimano was forced to engineer the chain this way because the tolerances of the system and the angles were so extreme.
In my experience, I am thinking that the even numbered systems work the best while the odd numbered systems were problematic. My 10 speed microshift system works beautifully, best shifting system I’ve ever used. My 8 speed Claris system also works well. The 9 speed and 11 speed systems have never felt really solid compared to the 8 and 10 speed systems.
This has largely solved the problem of the derailleur hanger catching. It has largely solved it but it still does catch a little. It doesn’t catch enough to pull it back but it is noticeable and it is a little bit of grinding.
11 speed ******g sucks is my conclusion. I think Shimano was forced to engineer the chain this way because the tolerances of the system and the angles were so extreme.
In my experience, I am thinking that the even numbered systems work the best while the odd numbered systems were problematic. My 10 speed microshift system works beautifully, best shifting system I’ve ever used. My 8 speed Claris system also works well. The 9 speed and 11 speed systems have never felt really solid compared to the 8 and 10 speed systems.
1) Indexing needs adjustment (cable tension adjustment)
2) Derailleur hanger is bent.
3) B-Screw needs adjustment. Probably setting the cage too close to the cassette.
4) Incompatible chain (you've covered that). I stick with Shimano chains on Shimano components.
5) Damaged bent derailleur.
#15
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My 11 speed 105 drivetrain has always worked flawlessly. May I suggest taking it to an lbs and let them sort it out? Once it's set up properly, your bike will be a joy to ride. There's something either mismatched (chain, rd), or installed improperly.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Plenty of people have used 11-speed without issues, including myself. I'm sure it has nothing to do with odd speeds. I'm not really sure what catching on the cage means. But if the chain seems to jump once in a while at the back, sort of like it is trying to shift gears, it could be several things.
1) Indexing needs adjustment (cable tension adjustment)
2) Derailleur hanger is bent.
3) B-Screw needs adjustment. Probably setting the cage too close to the cassette.
4) Incompatible chain (you've covered that). I stick with Shimano chains on Shimano components.
5) Damaged bent derailleur.
1) Indexing needs adjustment (cable tension adjustment)
2) Derailleur hanger is bent.
3) B-Screw needs adjustment. Probably setting the cage too close to the cassette.
4) Incompatible chain (you've covered that). I stick with Shimano chains on Shimano components.
5) Damaged bent derailleur.
#17
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Pedaling backwards is a useless test...it says nothing
Start from the beginning
The rear derailleur hanger is aligned
The rear derailleur limit screws are set correctly...it will affect shifting...if the pulleys aren't correctly aligned that misalignment will carry through to every shift
The front derailleur is correctly positioned vertically and the cage is parallel with the teeth on the big chain ring
The front derailleur trim adjustments are correctly set
Both derailleurs are clean and lightly lubricated...including the jockey and idler pulleys
The shifter cables and housings are free of any corrosion/rust...if unsure, replace cables and housings
The chain is clean and properly lubed/waxed and there are no stiff links
The chain is the correct length
The chain is correct for the drivetrain
The crankset is clean, the chain rings are not bent and the teeth are smooth with no bibbits which could grab the chain as it passes
The cable tension, when attaching the cable to the derailleur, is correct...set just right
The shifters are working smoothly...some will become 'sticky' as they age and the lubricant or always lubed bits and pieces dry out...we see a lot in our shop...spraying a bit of lube...not WD40...will often restore smooth actuation in most cases where they are dry
If all of the above is good and the parts are all working correctly you should have smooth and quiet shifting in all gears.
Start from the beginning
The rear derailleur hanger is aligned
The rear derailleur limit screws are set correctly...it will affect shifting...if the pulleys aren't correctly aligned that misalignment will carry through to every shift
The front derailleur is correctly positioned vertically and the cage is parallel with the teeth on the big chain ring
The front derailleur trim adjustments are correctly set
Both derailleurs are clean and lightly lubricated...including the jockey and idler pulleys
The shifter cables and housings are free of any corrosion/rust...if unsure, replace cables and housings
The chain is clean and properly lubed/waxed and there are no stiff links
The chain is the correct length
The chain is correct for the drivetrain
The crankset is clean, the chain rings are not bent and the teeth are smooth with no bibbits which could grab the chain as it passes
The cable tension, when attaching the cable to the derailleur, is correct...set just right
The shifters are working smoothly...some will become 'sticky' as they age and the lubricant or always lubed bits and pieces dry out...we see a lot in our shop...spraying a bit of lube...not WD40...will often restore smooth actuation in most cases where they are dry
If all of the above is good and the parts are all working correctly you should have smooth and quiet shifting in all gears.
#18
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Thread Starter
I bent the derailleur hanger and it still caught. I replaced it and it still caught. I think that the rear wheel is to blame now. There is some flex in the rear triangle by the dropouts. It appears that there is like 1 or 2mm of loose space between the axle of the wheel and the space of the dropout.
Is my frame just bad? Or is there a way to add a spacer to the axle of the wheel? Not thru axle but the older kind.
Is my frame just bad? Or is there a way to add a spacer to the axle of the wheel? Not thru axle but the older kind.
Last edited by adlai; 08-06-23 at 09:12 AM.
#19
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Thread Starter
Yeah, I figured out the problem.
Wheelset is 8-10 speed. 11 speed needs a new wheel standard. That is why the wheel seems too small for the frame.
Im so behind on the times.
Wheelset is 8-10 speed. 11 speed needs a new wheel standard. That is why the wheel seems too small for the frame.
Im so behind on the times.
#20
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You really should take it to a shop and let them figure out what is wrong. Obviously there is something wrong because it shouldn't do this. 11 speed systems have been around a long time and work virtually flawless when properly installed. The issue with trying to troubleshoot via text across the internet is that many issues can have many causes.
Maybe if you work on it long enough you'll have that ah-ha moment and figure it out. But you might spend a lot of money trying different things or ruin something thinking the designers didn't know what they were doing and you "fix" something or make it better by destroying something not even related to the issue.
Did you ever answer the question of whether this happens only when you coast or pedal backwards. Or is this when pedaling forward?
Maybe if you work on it long enough you'll have that ah-ha moment and figure it out. But you might spend a lot of money trying different things or ruin something thinking the designers didn't know what they were doing and you "fix" something or make it better by destroying something not even related to the issue.
Did you ever answer the question of whether this happens only when you coast or pedal backwards. Or is this when pedaling forward?