Cassette with linear gear step progression and range
#26
Full Member
Thread Starter
Another one besides Campagnolo Ekar is Rotor 12/11-39 but that one is also too expensive compared to 105 11-34 Shimano.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: The Ring of Fire
Posts: 932
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 463 Post(s)
Liked 567 Times
in
356 Posts
Gearing may be linear in its progression, mathematically & geometrically, but will you experience and feel it as such? Human cognition is not linear. Take sound and light perception, for example. For something to feel linear, it may well have to be logarithmic or even exponential.
#28
Not lost wanderer.
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Lititz, Pa
Posts: 3,332
Bikes: In USA; 73 Raleigh Super Course dingle speed, 72 Raleigh Gran Sport SS, 72 Geoffry Butler, 81 Centurion Pro-Tour, 74 Gugie Grandier Sportier
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 886 Post(s)
Liked 999 Times
in
525 Posts
Most linear progression would be the Shimano 12-36 9 speed cassette.
OP is looking at logarithmic.
OP is looking at logarithmic.
__________________
Cambodia bikes, Bridgestone SRAM 2 speed, 2012 Fuji Stratos...
Cambodia bikes, Bridgestone SRAM 2 speed, 2012 Fuji Stratos...
#29
Disco Infiltrator
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,446
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3126 Post(s)
Liked 2,105 Times
in
1,369 Posts
It’s summer! Go ride your bikes and save this stuff for February
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Genesis 49:16-17
Likes For Darth Lefty:
#30
Senior Member
I've not had any problem with SRAM's 10T sprocket. The 10 gives more total range. I have a 46/30 crank and 10-36 cassette that produces a 552% range. I use the 46/10 only on descents, but it's great in the 32-40 mph range. There's no way you can feel a few watts lost at that speed. Campy has 10T sprockets on their latest Super Record wireless group and 9T on Ekar. Ekar has been very successful.
Last edited by DaveSSS; 06-25-23 at 07:47 AM.
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,039
Bikes: addict, aethos, creo, vanmoof, sirrus, public ...
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1279 Post(s)
Liked 1,393 Times
in
711 Posts
The forces against you are not all linear. At "higher" speeds, wind resistance dictates small gaps between gears whereas going slowly, the forces are linear and the gearing gaps should be larger. To double your speed, the wind resistance is 8 times higher or more realistically, a 10% increase in speed when riding "fast" requires about 30% more power. On a steep hill, 10% increase in speed only requires a 10% increase in power. So, a corn cob at one end and big gear jumps at the other. SRAM's 10-33 or Shimano 11-30 12 speed pared to the right chain rings for your preference would be about as close to "linear" as you can get.
__________________
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,451
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4415 Post(s)
Liked 4,868 Times
in
3,013 Posts
I've not had any problem with SRAM's 10T sprocket. The 10 gives more total range. I have a 46/30 crank and 10-36 cassette that produces a 552% range. I use the 46/10 only on descents, but it's great in the 32-40 mph range. There's no way you can feel a few watts lost at that speed. Campy has 10T sprockets on their latest Super Record wireless group and 9T on Ekar. Ekar has been very successful.
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,954
Bikes: Colnago, Van Dessel, Factor, Cervelo, Ritchey
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3956 Post(s)
Liked 7,304 Times
in
2,949 Posts
Likes For tomato coupe:
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,039
Bikes: addict, aethos, creo, vanmoof, sirrus, public ...
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1279 Post(s)
Liked 1,393 Times
in
711 Posts
while you don’t “have to” of course, on my 1x bike the gains from a more appropriate low end (10% smaller small cog, 10% smaller chain ring) more than outweigh the .5-1% loss from 10t vs 11t. in reality it’s probably less than that when you take into account the smaller chain ring and losing the other chain ring and FD completely.
__________________
#35
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,366
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,221 Times
in
2,367 Posts
Reciprocal of the form y=k/x where k is a given chainring and x is the cog. This graph is for all gear combinations from 11 to 37 (in one tooth increments) with a 44 tooth chainwheel.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Likes For cyccommute:
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,954
Bikes: Colnago, Van Dessel, Factor, Cervelo, Ritchey
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3956 Post(s)
Liked 7,304 Times
in
2,949 Posts
while you don’t “have to” of course, on my 1x bike the gains from a more appropriate low end (10% smaller small cog, 10% smaller chain ring) more than outweigh the .5-1% loss from 10t vs 11t. in reality it’s probably less than that when you take into account the smaller chain ring and losing the other chain ring and FD completely.
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,039
Bikes: addict, aethos, creo, vanmoof, sirrus, public ...
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1279 Post(s)
Liked 1,393 Times
in
711 Posts
agreed, and the differences in efficiency and weight are so small that there seem to be much better reasons to decide one way or the other. i have a 2x road bike and a 1x road/gravel bike (with a 10t) and they each seem fairly well suited to what i use them for. efficiency is very low magnitude in the pros/cons list.
__________________
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,451
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4415 Post(s)
Liked 4,868 Times
in
3,013 Posts
#39
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 678
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 348 Times
in
195 Posts
It is funny how at the same time we can obsess over what cogs are in a freewheel or cassette, and at the same time be thrilled with a single-speed bicycle.
I have a lot of freewheels laying around some with one-tooth jumps and some a bit wider and standard ones with wider jumps, they all have their place depending on what sort of riding is being done and how many hills are on the ride. I think it helped perspective a lot putting a thousand miles on a single-speed road bike the first half of this year, and although I am in my 60s I am able to go 18mph easily enough on the flat with the bike, but also hump it up some pretty long 5% grades and even a 7%+ grade in my town that is one block long. But then when I jump on my Marin with it's 24 speeds and a relatively close XTR "cyclocross" rear cassette, I can still complain to myself how it has too big a jump between two of it's cogs.
This lets me know that when the gearing of my bicycle is bothering me, then it most likely to be a combination of being old, being out of shape, and being short on sanity.
I have a lot of freewheels laying around some with one-tooth jumps and some a bit wider and standard ones with wider jumps, they all have their place depending on what sort of riding is being done and how many hills are on the ride. I think it helped perspective a lot putting a thousand miles on a single-speed road bike the first half of this year, and although I am in my 60s I am able to go 18mph easily enough on the flat with the bike, but also hump it up some pretty long 5% grades and even a 7%+ grade in my town that is one block long. But then when I jump on my Marin with it's 24 speeds and a relatively close XTR "cyclocross" rear cassette, I can still complain to myself how it has too big a jump between two of it's cogs.
This lets me know that when the gearing of my bicycle is bothering me, then it most likely to be a combination of being old, being out of shape, and being short on sanity.
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,994
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2496 Post(s)
Liked 739 Times
in
523 Posts
Has it been noted in this thread yet that smaller chainwheels and cogs wear much faster than larger ones and that that probably outweighs any weight savings?
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 4,083
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2333 Post(s)
Liked 2,097 Times
in
1,314 Posts
#42
Full Member
Thread Starter
It is funny how at the same time we can obsess over what cogs are in a freewheel or cassette, and at the same time be thrilled with a single-speed bicycle.
I have a lot of freewheels laying around some with one-tooth jumps and some a bit wider and standard ones with wider jumps, they all have their place depending on what sort of riding is being done and how many hills are on the ride. I think it helped perspective a lot putting a thousand miles on a single-speed road bike the first half of this year, and although I am in my 60s I am able to go 18mph easily enough on the flat with the bike, but also hump it up some pretty long 5% grades and even a 7%+ grade in my town that is one block long. But then when I jump on my Marin with it's 24 speeds and a relatively close XTR "cyclocross" rear cassette, I can still complain to myself how it has too big a jump between two of it's cogs.
This lets me know that when the gearing of my bicycle is bothering me, then it most likely to be a combination of being old, being out of shape, and being short on sanity.
I have a lot of freewheels laying around some with one-tooth jumps and some a bit wider and standard ones with wider jumps, they all have their place depending on what sort of riding is being done and how many hills are on the ride. I think it helped perspective a lot putting a thousand miles on a single-speed road bike the first half of this year, and although I am in my 60s I am able to go 18mph easily enough on the flat with the bike, but also hump it up some pretty long 5% grades and even a 7%+ grade in my town that is one block long. But then when I jump on my Marin with it's 24 speeds and a relatively close XTR "cyclocross" rear cassette, I can still complain to myself how it has too big a jump between two of it's cogs.
This lets me know that when the gearing of my bicycle is bothering me, then it most likely to be a combination of being old, being out of shape, and being short on sanity.
Single speed feels smoother and paradoxically more efficient on inclines, but at the same time leaves you with a limited aftertaste, especially when not being able to take full advantage of that rare tailwind. Have been riding single speed 40km max only on a nearly flat roads so it's hard to come up with a more realistic conclusion.
Last edited by sysrq; 06-26-23 at 10:19 PM.
#43
Full Member
Thread Starter
For some weird reason this stuff comes up most often in the summer. Most of the cycling has always happened during autumn and spring when there are lower temperatures and humidity. Wildlife and traffic also seems calmer at that time so it doesn't increase the anxiety as much while riding.
#44
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
I would agree that for most applications this is true, but it’s actually fine for most people for MTB use.
42x13 is just a smidge taller than 32x10 which is a very common top gear for modern 12 sp mtbs. Most modern mtbs run a 10t small cog with a front ring ranging from 28-34t, 30-32 being the most common on stock builds. And just a few years ago before 12sp, 11t was the smallest cog, and 32x11 was a common high gear.
42x13 is just a smidge taller than 32x10 which is a very common top gear for modern 12 sp mtbs. Most modern mtbs run a 10t small cog with a front ring ranging from 28-34t, 30-32 being the most common on stock builds. And just a few years ago before 12sp, 11t was the smallest cog, and 32x11 was a common high gear.
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,451
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4415 Post(s)
Liked 4,868 Times
in
3,013 Posts
So is the 48/10 on my SRAM bike really going to wear out "much faster" than the 50/11 on my Shimano bike? Or is it going to matter far more whether or not I ride them in crappy road conditions or how often I clean and lube them?
#46
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 678
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 348 Times
in
195 Posts
When legs get tired during long distance commuting (80-160km) then smaller steps between gears feel handy depending on a specific conditions. Too fast or too slow cadence can start to feel annoying.
Single speed feels smoother and paradoxically more efficient on inclines, but at the same time leaves you with a limited aftertaste, especially when not being able to take full advantage of that rare tailwind. Have been riding single speed 40km max only on a nearly flat roads so it's hard to come up with a more realistic conclusion.
Single speed feels smoother and paradoxically more efficient on inclines, but at the same time leaves you with a limited aftertaste, especially when not being able to take full advantage of that rare tailwind. Have been riding single speed 40km max only on a nearly flat roads so it's hard to come up with a more realistic conclusion.
#47
Senior Member
If you have a 50/11, then a 46/10 is about the same. A 48/10 is like a 53/11. The rate of wear won't be significantly different. SRAM's expensive rings with power meter aren't a necessity. There are other ways to measure power, like pedals or crank arms with power meter.
I suspect that most people who have power readings don't race or train seriously, so the power info is just another piece of worthless data.
As for cassette wear, a 10 won't be the sprocket that wears out first.
The smaller rings are not for saving weight, they're for combining with the larger range cassettes to get more range with similar gear ratios.
I use cheap grx cranks with my SRAM force drivetrains.
I suspect that most people who have power readings don't race or train seriously, so the power info is just another piece of worthless data.
As for cassette wear, a 10 won't be the sprocket that wears out first.
The smaller rings are not for saving weight, they're for combining with the larger range cassettes to get more range with similar gear ratios.
I use cheap grx cranks with my SRAM force drivetrains.
Last edited by DaveSSS; 06-27-23 at 10:56 AM.
#48
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
I spend so little time in my smallest cogs that the wear rates of 10t vs 11t vs 12t are really a non-issue. I’m going to wear some other cogs first.
In addition to the little time spend in my smallest cog, I am also not generally pushing it all that hard as I am just topping my speed off going down hill.
In addition to the little time spend in my smallest cog, I am also not generally pushing it all that hard as I am just topping my speed off going down hill.
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,994
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2496 Post(s)
Liked 739 Times
in
523 Posts
I spend so little time in my smallest cogs that the wear rates of 10t vs 11t vs 12t are really a non-issue. I’m going to wear some other cogs first.
In addition to the little time spend in my smallest cog, I am also not generally pushing it all that hard as I am just topping my speed off going down hill.
In addition to the little time spend in my smallest cog, I am also not generally pushing it all that hard as I am just topping my speed off going down hill.
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,994
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2496 Post(s)
Liked 739 Times
in
523 Posts
I would agree that for most applications this is true, but it’s actually fine for most people for MTB use.
42x13 is just a smidge taller than 32x10 which is a very common top gear for modern 12 sp mtbs. Most modern mtbs run a 10t small cog with a front ring ranging from 28-34t, 30-32 being the most common on stock builds. And just a few years ago before 12sp, 11t was the smallest cog, and 32x11 was a common high gear.
42x13 is just a smidge taller than 32x10 which is a very common top gear for modern 12 sp mtbs. Most modern mtbs run a 10t small cog with a front ring ranging from 28-34t, 30-32 being the most common on stock builds. And just a few years ago before 12sp, 11t was the smallest cog, and 32x11 was a common high gear.