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I just got back home 5 days ago from a long bicycle tour in Europe. I sent out e-mail “Field Notes” notes to a small group of friends and family as the tour progressed much like I did a few years ago crossing the USA.

I’ve edited them somewhat and added pictures for you guys. It’s taken me days to sort them out, I hope you enjoy them. This is rather lengthy so it will be posted in chunks.
1st off, here are some screen shots of the Map view of the rides I recorded in the Ride with GPS app so you get an idea of where we traveled.

Ireland, May 15 thru May 27
The routes of Ireland by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Mainland Europe, May 28 thru June 30
The routes through mainland Europe by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

So here it goes:

Field Note 1

Hello everyone!
It's been a week since my buddy Mario and I left home to begin our cycling tour around Europe and it's time to check in. 1st off we are both doing fine and enjoying ourselves.
I am writing to you from Doolin on Irelands west coast situated right next to the Cliffs of Moher. It's our 1st rest day and we spent the morning riding out to see the famed Cliffs but wouldn't you know, the area is blanketed in thick fog. We walked the path along the edge along with hoards of other tourists and had some fine views of the grassy edge but not much of anything else beyond that except the cows that were grazing in the fields next to the fence. It was actually pretty funny. It's not the first time we skunked visiting a major tourist attraction.

Flying into Dublin we assembled our bikes in the baggage claim area and rode them from the airport into the heart of the city to our Hostel in the Temple Bar district. It was a little bewildering riding in a new country on the "wrong side of the road" but in some ways it resembled riding through the industrial area any big city.

We had one free day in Dublin before beginning our Bike tour. I had originally planned to use that day to take the train some 30 miles north to Drogheda with the bikes without our bags to ride in the country out to see Newgrange. https://www.newgrange.com/

Unfortunately we were unable to get in as the numbers of visitors are limited each day and we hadn't made plans in advance. Still, we got quite close as we looped around the general area.
Newgrange by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We enjoyed the small quiet country lanes lined by hedges of wild fuchsia listening to the sounds of many songbirds hidden in the bushes and trees.
So this was our second missed chance at seeing a major attraction but in reality, a bike tour is mostly about the journey and the folks you encounter not the "big attractions".
We were excited to begin our tour the next day on fully laden bikes.

We took a train the next day to Westport on Irelands west coast. We spent nearly the whole 3 hours enjoying the company of an elderly John McCleary.
The Irish do have the gift of gab even if I could only understand about 1/2 of what he was saying. What we did take away was a bit of advice about worry. "You can worry and die or not worry and still die so why worry?"
We got off the train and rode 18 miles along the coast to the Roonagh ferry terminal where we caught the "ferry" to Clare Island where we were to camp just off the beach overlooking the harbor.

I say "ferry" but it was more like a small fishing trawler. We had to take our bags off the bikes and carry them down a flight of cement stairs (with no railing) to the vessel.
Loading our bikes on the Clare Island ferry by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

The bikes, carried by a crew member in the same fashion were placed on the open deck in the stern. The ferry was pitching up and down on the ocean swells as we made the several mile crossing. Every now and then spray would come over the side to give the bikes a light seasoning of salt as we chugged along. The unloading process was repeated in the harbor on Clare. This is a small island, maybe several hundred residents. We go to the community center to look for Frank O'Malley to see about a pitch for our tents and pay the 10 Euros fee. They direct us to the house next door and are greeted by his father who won't take our money, says "Frank'll be back in th' morn'n go pitch yer tents in the grass o'wer thay're by the fence" and the deal is done. The weather has been clear and all day, we have a million dollar view of the beach and the mainland as we cook our supper and go to sleep that night.

Yea, we're off to a good start.
So why pick Clare Island as a destination?

It's because of my mother. Her maiden name was O'Malley. Daughter of immigrants. She was very proud of her Irish heritage. She and my dad lived on Vashon Island until she was killed by a drunk driver 43 years ago. She loved living in their beach house they had there. She loved walking the beach looking for treasures. Driftwood, shells, rocks and sea glass that she'd make into art pieces. I wanted to bring something of her with me here to leave on Clare Island. I brought a small photo of her as a child - probably her 1st communion. I asked my sister if she had anything to contribute knowing my sister grieved her loss deeply. She gave me some teeth she had received from dad shortly after mom died. There was a gold crown and a bunch of small baby teeth. I figure those were probably us kids baby teeth that are a mothers treasure. I intended to find a place to bury those in the graveyard of the 16th century Abbey on the island where the most famous O'Malley was interred.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grace_O'Malley

The next morning Mario and I rode the few kilometers to the Abbey. Another clear sunny day. The roads are just barely one lane wide, lined by rock walls and hedges. Houses sparsely scattered along the hillside, every one with a beautiful view of the sea. Rock walls encase farmers fields penning in sheep with heavy white wool coats. It couldn't be a more traditional Irish scene. We get to the Abbey and discover it's locked. Closed in the middle of a 2 week restoration project of the rare original murals painted on its ceiling. Only slightly disappointed, it was enough to be here. Surrounded by a graveyard full of headstones bearing the O'Malley name. I found a place up high by the east side of the Abbey and sat down, back against the rock wall lining the place. The sun reflecting off the water, I felt my mom's presence there and I knew she would be pleased. I left those pieces I'd brought with me there, stuffed into the base of the wall.
The Abbey on Clare Island by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr
We left the island that afternoon and rode south to Connemura. We got off route a bit and added an extra 10-15 miles which made for a long day but it was exceedingly beautiful. We passed though a mountainous area that was striking because of its barren nature.
P2300581 by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

More sheep than people. It felt high and lonely. We passed by pristine lakes and occasionally we'd encounter lush enclaves of trees and tall bushes of wild fuchsia and rhododendron. Then they'd disappear as suddenly as they appeared. We made it to camp late, about 7pm, the campground on a hill above the Killarey Fjord.
Connemura Camp view by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

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The next morning we could feel a change in the weather. The temps dropped, clouds thickened and southwest winds picked up. We had to get an early start as we had a ferry to catch to the Aran Island of Inish Mor at 1pm.
More spectacular scenery as we rode across Connemura but we had to keep up a steady pace to meet our deadline.
On the road to the Aran Island Ferry by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We were riding into a fairly stout headwind and there were many hills to sap your strength even further. Then the rain started, first as a light mist then increasing in intensity until we were soaked. I was worried about missing the ferry and I hit a low point demoralized as hypothermia began to creep in. Mario fared better. His kryptonite is heat, mine is cold and I was thankful he wasn’t affected as I had been. We made it to the ferry with 30 minutes to spare and I was shaking badly. There was no way I could camp in that weather so I arranged to get a small cabin at the campground on the island. A hot meal, warm shower and a roof over my head never felt so good.
The rain stopped late afternoon and next morning was dry as we rode out to view the Iron Age Fort of Dun Aonghasa

https://heritageireland.ie/visit/pla.../dun-aonghasa/

The Aran Islands are well known and full of tourists. Like Clare Island, the island is laced with rock walls and narrow roads but here, the traffic is much heavier. Throngs of people walking, riding in horse drawn carriages, rental bikes and small tourist shuttles. Quite challenging dodging everyone riding our bikes.
Aran Traffic by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Still, it's a neat island and we got out to the fort early enough before it was crowded.
Dun Aonghasa entrance by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

The place is over 3000 years old. We may have not seen a clear view of the Cliffs of Moher but we did have a really clear day to stand near the edge of the sea cliffs off the back of that fort and that was truly impressive and and scary for me. I'm afraid of heights.
Dun Aonghasa by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

That afternoon the weather began to change again (notice a pattern?). Wind and waves picked up as we loaded onto the ferry for Doolin. It was a rough passage and an entertaining exit off the ship at the pier. The swells bucking the ship as we walked off the gang plank to the pier. The stay here in Doolin has been great. A well needed rest. After getting skunked by fog at the Cliffs of Moher we had an especially neat visit to a small medieval church ruins just a short distance away from where we're staying. Built originally around 1200AD it had been sacked, rebuilt several times. We met a guy named Joe clearing the grounds and had a wonderful time talking with him. An archeologist by trade, he leads a volunteer work/cleanup crew of all the old historical sites in the area. No one else there but Joe and another volunteer it was off the beaten path but very rewarding to see and talk with him.

Joe and his wife by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr
Tomorrow's going to be another long and tough day riding down to Tralee so I better get some sleep. Goodnight!

Field note 2
Another week gone by and our time in Ireland is coming to an end tomorrow afternoon when Mario and I leave by ferry for France. Tonight we are sharing a room with two strangers in a Hostel in the heart of the city 1 block north of the River Lee. Bunk beds. We are probably the oldest people staying here tonight. You should have seen us today navigating though the city and it's crazy traffic. We eventually find the place. The ground floor is a bar.
Our digs in Cork by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Mario watches the bikes while I go in and ask the tattoo'd bartender how to check in. She says "roll your bikes through the bar to the back room n take yer bags off an I'll show you where to store em". We weave around the customers to the back room and strip the bikes as requested.
She then leads us down a long, narrow and steep staircase to an ancient dimly lit basement then gives us a key for a room 3 floors above the bar. The whole place looks like a rabbit Warren.
We put the bikes to bed by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

A lot of work carrying the bags up multiple flights (no elevators) but it guarantees that the live Irish music playing in the bar will not be heard. So that's just our latest Irish adventure...We've had many this past week so I'll start at the beginning.
We left Doolin early under cloudy skies threatening rain. It was going to be a long day with incessant hills. The hills here are very different than back home. These are short and steep punchy things, one straight after another. We avoid the busier roads and travel the tiny lanes that lace the country barely wide enough for a small car. They are visually as pretty as they are tough. Slow going on fully laden touring bikes.

The 1st climb from the Hostel goes up a ravine with an old stone watchtower looking down at us on top.
Doolin by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Stone seems to be the main building material in most of the old farmhouses we pass by. Where there is new house, there's usually an old roof less one nearby on the property slowly being reclaimed by nature.
We pass by many abandonded old houses by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We are in dairy country now, more cows than people. Our luck continues when we reach the river Shannon. The ferry was just beginning to leave when we arrive. The ramp is lowered and we are let on. A light mist catches up with us the last hour before reaching camp in Tralee. Tents are up and we're inside before the real rain starts. A bit over 110k for the day.

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The next morning we ride to Dingle via Conor Pass. As expected, this was a highlight of our trip. We ride along the coast as the the sun burned off the clouds by noon. There are long sand beaches with waves breaking on them that explain why we pass by surf shops. The Lush vegetation on the hillsides make me think of East Maui.
The road to Dingle by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Then the turn inland up to Conor Pass.... Visually a treat this road is! Imagine Going to the Sun road in Montana but only one lane wide with an occasional turn out.
Conor Pass road by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

From the summit you see Dingle town 10km below on the water. The beaches of Maui and Going to the Sun Road of Montana all within 30 kilometers really illustrate how compact and dense and rich Ireland is for a cyclist.

We had a day off in Dingle staying in a Hostel in the middle of town. Sunny and warm all day. We took the bikes unladen with bags out to see the early Christian site of Gallarus Oratory (7 century) and Cil Maoilchedair (12 c). Names that sound like part of a story by J. R. R Tolkien.
The Gallarus Oratory by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Cill Maoilchedair by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Come to think of it, Tolkien comes to mind alot. Most signs and places are in Gaelic.
We wake the next morning to the sounds of pigeons cooing outside the window... Another long hard day ahead but under sunny skies to ride up through the Gap of Dunloe to another Hostel in Templenoe.This is the stage I've really been looking forward to. An incredibly beautiful road passing through a narrow gap in Irelands highest mountains - the Macgillycuddy Reeks. The road is well known and touristed. Many opt to walk the road or hire a local driver to take them through on 2 wheeled horse driven carts.
One of the many carts taking tourists to the gap by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

It’s a narrow 1 lane road passing by pretty alpine lakes, it’s visually stunning and brings back memories of the lakes in the Enchantments. One of those roads you dream of as a cyclist.
A ride you dream of by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

A hard climb to the pass, the sun is in our faces as we descend the valley on the other side watching a cloud cap spill over the high mountain on our right. Lonely landscapes past free roaming sheep and an occasional farmhouse then back up another mountain ridge as tough as the Gap. This day had it all.
A resident of the Gap by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr



Descending out the other side of the Gap by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

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We were the only guests at the remote Greenwood Hostel. The owner's a German named Torsten, built this place over many years is very artistic and it somehow tells a story of its own.
Up early the next morning for another long day to Conlakilty. We had no idea just how intense this day would turn out to be.
The adventure started just past Kenmare where we turned inland off the Ring of Beara road. Up and up a narrow paved lane following a stream into the mountains. Past small farms and fields of sheep the road increasingly steeper the higher we go.
The road gets steeper as you climb higher by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Stopping frequently to rest we push on. No one else around, it appeared we were heading into a big cirque. This was more of goat path than a road, if it weren't for the map we would have turned around thinking it was a dead end.
Heading into the high country by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

But we labored on in the sun, free roaming sheep cheering us on Baaa! Baaa!
There are times that try a man's soul and this was our moment. Too steep to climb we got off and walked barely able to gain traction with our shoes the last kilometer or so...
There are moments that try a man's soul by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We gained the summit and sat on some rocks for a rest. A real high and wild place. Mario began to question my choice of routes :-)
The descent on the other side was more gentle and the road in better shape.
Once over the mountain it got much easier by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Within 30 minutes we were on a main road getting g water at a roadside trinket shop! Our spirits were restored.
A stop for water after emerging from the ruff stuff by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Up the biggest climb of the day after this was easy in comparison and soon we're descending the other side seeing the ocean again having bisected the Beara Peninsula.
Heading to Clonakilty by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Still 60km to go we overshoot a turn and have to plot a new course to Clonakilty. As we head inland, the terrain becomes softer and less severe. Farms spread over undulating rounded hills.
The land becomes more gentle in West Cork by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

An unexpected treat was passing by a castle ruin in the middle of nowhere.
Passing by an old ruin on the way to Clonakilty by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We finally reach camp around 7pm and I'm falling to sleep to the sounds of pigeons cooing and a mournful bull bleating in the barn on the property. A easier day awaits us in the morning. Only 60km to Cork...Thanks for putting up with this wordy mail. I hope you get a sense for what we are experiencing. There are so many thoughts and impressions.

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Field note 3
I was riding today, thinking of what to tell you of the past week, how to arrange all the has been passing by and I think as that as the introduction, try to envision your family dog in the car with his head out the window being blasted with all those scents coming at their highly sensitive nose at 60 mph. That nose hundreds maybe thousands of times more sensitive than a humans olfactory...

The change from Ireland was apparent an hour before the ferry docked in France at Roscoff.
Bonjour! by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We are awakened from sleep in our cabin by music on the intercom at 6am. Get your stuff together, we dock in an hour. Breakfast served in the cafeteria come n get it. We get our stuff together and head up 2 decks to the cafeteria.
There's alot of nervous excitement about. The air is filled with "Bonjours" in the stairway. I get an English Breakfast and wait for debarking instructions which never come. The loading process was very complicated and we were some of the last to board when we got on.We figured we'd be the last to leave so we waited until the cafeteria was almost empty. Before going down to the car deck to our bikes..

The deck was empty and just as we approached our bikes a loud warning signal started sounding and lights blinking as we watched the front of the ferry disappear, our ceiling which was also the upper car level floor was lowering just ahead of us to form a ramp for that level to unload. Felt like that Star Wars movie scene inside the trash compactor.
Eventually the floor was raised again and we're off, following instructions to queue in a car lane for immigration control.

Finally through immigration we're off on French soil and following a GPS route I had mapped for the next 200 miles to Mont St. Michel. I'd made reservations to camp there as close to the causeway as possible so we had a deadline. 4 days to cover 200 miles in unfamiliar ground. 2 guys with hardly any ability to speak the language. What could possibly go wrong?

As it turned out, nothing really. We got lost a little, received kindness and help from strangers and soon found ourselves in love with our new country. We landed in Brittany, the westernmost region of France. It's been settled by humans for many 1000's of years and you really get a sense of this riding it's backroads. Towns and villages are extremely old. Houses built of stone, old churches, neat farms growing an astounding variety of crops. We started riding the coastline then turned inland mostly on old railroad grades that has been converted into bike paths.
It was like this for most of the day by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

It felt very safe and peaceful. The weather has been sunny and mild with a good breeze in our faces most of the way.
We soon could see that in France, bicycles are ridden by a large cross section of people young and old. It was Sunday and we saw many groups of riders out on club rides. Very friendly.
The highlight of the day was a stop for lunch along side the trail where there was a simple chalk board that read: "Plat de Jour" with an arrow pointing down this path to a guys outdoor Cafe in his backyard.
Plat du Jour by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Beautifully fried chicken with an artfully presented salad and fries. We took our time and savored it. An hour or so down the same trail we stopped and cooled our feet in a stream we crossed.. it was a pretty setting. The banks lined with daffodils and high grasses. This is pretty nice!
A stop along the trail today by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

It was a great place to cool off by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Camped overnight near Carhaix-Plougher in a private campground with its own restaurant and bar.

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The second day was pretty long - over 120kms. I claim responsibility. Once we got out onto a Canal path that we were to follow for a long time, I tuned off the volume on my phone and proceeded to follow the Brest-Nantes Canal....the wrong way. For almost 20kms. Oops.
Mario by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Oh well, it's a nice sunny day, we are riding in France along a gorgeous canal.
Canal view by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Tranquil. The best way to describe the riding along the Nantes-Brest canal by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We figured we'd find another cafe trailside but it didn't pan out as we learned a lesson about France: get your food before 1pm. Turns out the even French restaurant workers take time off for lunch too! We rode all day without lunch, relying on what we had stashed for emergencies. Got to a campground in Loudeac in the evening and ate our remaining food taking that lesson to heart. From that day on we stocked up at a local boulangerie (bakery) for the food we'd need for the road early each day.

The next day our goal was the old town of Dinan. Again, most of the day was riding rail trails. Later in the day Mario sprinted ahead and went off course. We both try to save our phones battery by putting them in airplane mode. Since I was the "navigator" I called, texted trying to warn him of his mistake but was soon faced with the decision to send instructions "here's where you need to end up" and go it alone up the Rance River to our campground in Dinan.
I approached Dinan from the river and canals of the Rance by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

It worked out. He got the message eventually ended up getting there to the campground just outside the city walls before me.
We walked the old town that evening after most tourists had gone. It's an old city with an intact medieval city center that is simply an amazing jumble of half timbered houses packed within the old city ramparts.
Dinon by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Dinan by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

The next morning we rode to Mont St. Michel. Our 1st view of the Mont was from about 30kms away when we reached the road along the coast. There it was, a faint triangle in the mist out in the bay to the north. We pressed on fighting stiff headwinds as if we were pilgrims paying penance for our sins. The kilometers went by with the wind howling in our ears as we looked twords our prize - the Mont. Supposedly built when an early Saint had a vision of Michael the Archangel saying this is the place to build a church, it seemed like Michael was making us pay the price for admission. As we got closer it seemed more like the quest to the emerald city of the wizard of Oz disappearing and re appearing as we followed the contours of the coastline.
Staging a shot for Mario's wife Bella by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Finally at the campground! We pitch the tents and have some supper. Mario is done for the day but I'm jazzed. I walk the 2km causeway out to the Mont that evening.
I'm glad I did. At 9pm, most tourists are gone. The streets and passage ways are almost empty. It's quiet. The moon starting to rise in the clear evening sky..
Everything is open to explore except the Abbey on top

Field note 3.1
...I fell asleep writing the last note! I was laying in my tent and fumbled the phone as I nodded off sending it out accidentally. Yea I'm a goofball...

Sunday morning, church bells are ringing. I'll try to finish it now (6am) as I'm being serenaded by songbirds, roosters and pigeons. The pigeons in particular are something we hear all day. Their call is distinctive and a little funny as they start off coo-ing strong but the tempo of the coo slows and drops in volume and gets kinda hoarse like they're asthmatic or something....

OK, so so heres the rest of the story from last night:
It's a good 2kms walk from the camp across the causeway to the small island of Mont St. Michel. The sun was low in the sky and the light was fantastic. Good for taking pictures. The sun sets here around 10:15pm.
There were a few other like-minded people. It's hard to not stop every few minutes to take pictures as you get closer and more details appear. Almost afraid the wonderful light will disappear before I reach the Island, my pace quickens even though the legs are sore and rubbery from cycling 200 miles in the past 4 days.

So glad I'm here! Visiting this place I've heard so much about over the years that here's almost a feeling of deja vu walking up to it.
Walking the causeway by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Mt.St.Michel by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

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Up on the Mont now passing through the gate into the town at it's base. The stores are all closed, only a few restaurants show signs of life as the last customers are finishing their meals, the staff beginning to clean up.
A few people in little clusters quietly talking as I walk by and take the first stairs I see going upward through the jumble of medieval houses.

Soon I'm alone on a terrace looking for another stairway. A very scenic version of "Donkey Kong". There are amazing views of the Abbey above. The gold statue of Michael the Archangel gleaming in the sun on top of the highest spire. Seagulls circling the spire reminding me of the flying monkeys of the wizard of Oz.
I reach the highest I could go tonight. The Abbey is closed and I look forward to seeing it tomorrow morning on our day off.
There is something interesting to photograph in every direction.
Shephards staff by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

I start to walk the stairs and terraces to the other side of the Mont and reach a circular terrace just as the sun sets in the west, mud flats and pools of trapped sea water reflecting the last rays as the sun slips under the horizon. The most people I've seen tonight are here: maybe a dozen.
The tidal mudflats extend for miles by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

I start to descend and the shadows get deeper. I wonder how many people actually live here just as I round a corner stairway and see a silver haired woman tending flowers by her door step. I quietly snap a picture of her feeling slightly guilty about it. I doubt she saw me though...
An evening walk though Mt.St.Michel by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

I walked back to camp at 11 pm.

This morning Mario and I returned early before throngs of tourists pack the tiny Island.. Our focus was the Abbey. There is something deeply moving about this place. It's scale other worldly. Thinking of those who built this place over hundreds of years as an act of devotion. The engineering brilliance of it all before computers, Google and a millennium of acquired knowledge since that time our modern world rests opon.
An I was there shot by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

I think of Charlotte, my deceased dad's wife and how she holds her Catholic faith dearly and wish she could be here with me. I sit for a while and pray for her.
It's a photographers dream. So many interesting details. The light playing off the walls and floor filtered though the many stained glass windows, Flying buttresses, columns as big as sequoias and others as delicate as willows. Mario is an excellent photographer and he's been showing some tricks and techniques I can use with my camera. We passed through the rooms with a photographers eye.
Ceiling detail by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Light playing on the window by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Views from the Cloister by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Walking through the Abbey with Mario by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Mario by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

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We break camp in the morning and head SE twords the Loire River and its vaunted Chateaux. In 3 days time we are there and I now finishing this note Sunday evening after riding a simply wonderful dirt bike path along the Mayenne River all the way into Angers.
An old waterworks along the Mayenne by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

I'm convinced. France is the perfect county to cycle-tour though. The landscapes are beautiful, I feel much safer in traffic here than anywhere in the US. I've found French people to be friendly and approachable and this type of travel, camping by bike to be very easy on the wallet. Food is inexpensive and the wine shockingly cheap. We are having a great time living the good life.
I'm hungry and need to go cook some food. Bye!

Field note 4

Hi there,
I was just thinking of sharing with you what camping has been like here in France. So far we have camped every night since we've arrived. The weather has made it very easy. Sunny every day. That may change tomorrow as it is likely that we'll see some rain and possibly some thunder overnight.

We camp in commercial campgrounds every day. They are rated with stars supposedly so you know you're a really swanky camper the more stars that are awarded to the place.
I'm not sure I can tell the difference. It's a toss up if a 3 star campground will have toilette paper or even toilette seats on the porcelain thrones. Be careful ladies if you camp in France. If you don't pay attention you may fall into the abyss on a late night journey.

And it was a hard lesson to learn you must be prepared with your own TP before committing to that act. Good thing I had baby wipes with me the 1st time but was so traumatized by the shock I've been hoarding the stuff ever since stuffing some in a baggie very time I see a roll in a restaurant or place of business. I walk out of the WC unashamed, pockets bulging.
Better carry summa this in France by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Last night's campground was fully stocked with seats and TP and it was glorious but it didn't have picnic tables in the campsite.
But that's not unusual either.
I'd say it's actually very rare to have a picnic table at your camping spot. Tonight's a 2 star place without TP or Toilette Seats but lo and behold, I am writing this note from a picnic table IN OUR CAMPSITE!

Our camp with the vaunted picnic table by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

If you camp in France it would be a good idea to invest in one of those small featherweight folding camping chairs. Most Euros have them and they do make sense to carry one here.So all I can say is you may think you know the rules but you really don't, just ah...ahem...roll with it.
So between the seat-less toilettes, lack of camping chairs/picnic tables, my body core is getting quite a workout. I can feel myself getting stronger in that regard. Not a 6 pack by any stretch of the imagination but hey, better than I started with.
One really nice feature of all commercial campgrounds we have stayed at is that there are showers. That's nice. Sometimes the water temperatures may be tepid and most are the push button variety that dish out water in 1 minute intervals but it's been quite hot during the day so it feels great. Don't count on soap being available in the bathrooms or showers in spite of all the warnings about Covid. Bring yer own. My choice is a small container of liquid dishwashing soap. Works well as shampoo, body wash, washing clothes or washing my one cooking pot, cup and spoon. I smell like a seabird rescued after an oil spill (thinking Dawn advertisements).

One uniquely French camping feature is that most campgrounds we have stayed at offer you the ability to pre-order baguettes, croissants, and pain de chocolate pastry delivered fresh and still warm in the morning at the reception office. We take advantage of this alot. It is a great way to start each day's ride already loaded up with delicious road food. It's cheap too!
You'd be surprised by the number of bike tourists that fill the campgrounds every night. Many nationalities. Many times Mario n I are some of the youngest. These tourists arrive on upright Dutch style city bikes, often electric. Many mountain bikes.
Camping fees are cheap. Under 20 euro most places for the two of us. In many of the campgrounds there is a restaurant/bar. Very civilized, eh?
We usually choose to cook our own dinner in camp, dirtbag style. We are trying to save some money. I haven't been attaching any photos on the emails so far but will make an exception tonight because in this day and age, anywhere you go there is the universal need to recharge our electronic devices. We are relying on my phones offline maps for navigation.

In many campgrounds you find a plug in the bathroom that you have to share with everyone else but sometimes you find an open outlet close to where us dirt bags camp and it's like moths attracted to a light.
Like moths attracted to a light... by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr
As usual there are new pictures loaded in the Flickr album. Alot of faaancy Chateaus in this week's collection.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/north_bend/2C09in4658

We continue to have a great time although I am having some trouble with my rear wheel spokes getting loose and the wheel going out of true. Mario has been a huge help keeping me out of trouble with that.
Please pray that my wheel holds up on this trip of a lifetime. Talk again with you soon.

Field note 5

Hello from Lac du Der-Chantecoq in the Grand Est region of France.
Du Lac by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We're taking a rest day here and I'm writing to you from the patio of the bar overlooking a bay filled with small sailboats doing some sort of regatta. It's already hot and the patio has shade, a table and chairs. And it's quiet - the bar won't open till 6pm so the place is mine. Alot to catch up on and since I only wrote of camping in my last note I'll start off with links to where we've ridden since Angers...

Oldest to newest from Angers:

June 6:

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/123623103

June 7:

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/123927797

June 8 was a rest day in Amboise

June 9:

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/124032944

June 10:

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/124166548

June 11:

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/124282994

June 12:

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/124397764

June 13:

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/124503596

June 14 is a rest day!

I share the routes especially for my cycling friends. One thing you will notice in these links if you look close enough is evidence that my sense of direction hasn't improved even with the help of GPS navigation. It's a love-hate relationship I have with the Ride With GPS application on my cell phone. It will tell me when to turn but because of my hearing loss I don't always hear it correctly. Other times (and Mario can confirm this..) the App get its Lefts and Rights mixed up. What is really cool about its routing algorithm function is it helped me come up with some great routes. Like having a local rider say to you "oh! I know this really cool way to get to xx" It has taken us down alleyways and paths we would never have found on our own.

OK, so our original plan was to follow the Loire River to the Rhine near Switzerand then head north following the Rhine to Frankfurt.

northbend 

The Chateaus along the Loire are pretty amazing - like something out of a fairy tale.
Angiers by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Samur by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Amboise by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Hard to get a good photo in these condions by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Chateau Chambord by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Chateau Du Chaumont by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Chateau of the day... De Sully-Sur-Loire by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We spent a rest day in a nice shady campground on an Island in the river at Amboise. It was my favorite day on the Loire. The town has been around since the Roman's built a fort on the bluff above the river. I went out in the evening and rode/walked an alley way up from the river to view the old Troglodyte homes dug into the chalky Cliffs below the Castle. Many are still used as houses today.
Troglodite homes by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Troglodyte Homes by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

northbend 

The French have a way with flowers that can make even the most run down place look artfully beautiful. The sun was low in the sky and the light made everything hued in reds, gold, soft pink and a pale sky blue accented.
Gate by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

I was able to get on the bike on the top of the bluff high above the river and follow a road out to a site of Roman battlefield that had been excavated around about 40 years ago. It was now just an open field. The old mound they built, covered in trees. Very quiet and peaceful.
Evening light above Amboise by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Ever since we arrived in France it had been sunny. In the Loire Valley, very hot and humid. It takes a toll on you. We are very tired at the end of each day and it was becoming apparent we were not going to make it to Frankfurt by the end of June with the pace we were going.
Change of plan - leave the Loire River and cut a direct path NE twords Germany. We are now a few days into that following routes I've made on the fly with Ride with GPS. We've been riding through gorgeous wine country. It's drier out here and we pass by many small villages and towns.
Open road in rural France by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

On the road to Auxerre by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

It's fascinating to see old farmhouses and barns. Still in use after centuries, some of the ones framed from roughly hewed timbers and covered in clay that has eroded exposing the original wood battens. Many are repaired with fired clay bricks plugging up the areas between the timbered frames.
Old barn by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Old barn by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Everywhere we go we see people out riding bikes and each night we are able to find a place to camp. Yesterday our route took us through a set of large lakes inside a national park. Most delightful was travelling for hours in the shade of tree lined dedicated bike paths.
We stopped to photograph a pretty canal lock that had been converted to an outdoor sculpture when an older gentleman on his racing bike approached us. He didn't speak any English and we know hardly any French but we ended up having a lively conversation with him about bikes and the route ahead.
Canal crossing on our way North by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr
New friends by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Oh! And we passed 2000 Km milestone yesterday and stopped to toast our achievement along a quiet country road.
Taking a picture for posterity by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Celebrating our 2000 Km on the road by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

northbend 

So there you have it. We are about 560 Km from Frankfurt when we leave tomorrow. We may just make it...if my rear wheel holds up. The rim is compromised. A ferrule pulled out two days ago and Mario has trued it as best as he can 3x now.
Mario the wheel whisperer.. by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

It stayed true all day yesterday so that's an encouraging sign. No more bouncing around on the ruff-stuff. We have to stick to pavement and ride gently.
As usual, there are new photos in my Flickr Album. https://www.flickr.com/gp/north_bend/50Jjx8887r

Thanks for taking the time to read this

Field note 6

Hello,
We are in Germany camping along the river in Trier after a short day of riding from our previous night stay in Luxembourg near the town of Remich. It was a really nice day - almost a rest day actually - under 50 Kms. Sunny and warm, we had unknowingly stumbled into Ironman Luxembourg weekend. The afternoon before, we had ridden in from St. Mihiel and found this campsite on a marina on the river where the person at check in said they were full-sold out like everywhere else nearby. I asked how far did he think we'd need to go to find a camping pitch and he softened up and said "we have a grassy unused section on our property down on the other end, go ahead and stay there for the night".. He offered it to us for free and wouldn't accept any payment.

This unused section turned out to be several acres with trees, grass nicely mowed. We set up camp in a shady spot next to the river. A couple of other cyclists joined us later that evening. This was our 1st night out of France and oh, the bathrooms were heavenly. Spacious and clean, it had toilet seats, toilet paper, soap dispensers and the showers! oh man.. you could turn the knob and shower as long as you'd like. The shower head high above you in the ceiling it was like bathing in a waterfall...

I love Luxembourg!

Anyway, so this morning a few kilometers into the ride we pass through the swimmers transition area to the cycling leg.
Ironman Luxembourg by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We get off the bikes, weave through the throngs of spectators, press, course officials and decide to take a bridge across the river into Germany to stay out of the way of competitors and spectators. What a great decision! We had shade all the way to Trier. One thing we noticed right away in Germany was that the properties along the river bank were lined with small private semi permanent camping spots. Some had elaborate decks and gardens, a wide assortment of large tents, awnings, shacks, trailers. Most were occupied with folks enjoying the weekend. Fun to see..

There is a dedicated paved pathway nearly the whole way to Trier and where you do have to go on the road, the way is signposted. Super easy flat riding, gliding by small towns and vineyards growing on the hillsides that made them look like corduroy...so much to see as you follow the bends in the river.
Vinyards by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Our 1st full day on the Mosel (Moselle) by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We arrived in Trier and check into the campground before noon setting up the tents in a shady spot along the river. That left us with the whole afternoon to go explore the old city.
Trier by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Trier centrum by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Trier by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Trier by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

northbend 

Trier was founded by the Roman's 2000 years ago and there are several large roman structures that survive today. We cycled through the car free centrum to see the immense Porto Nigra. A stage was being set up there for some sort of concert later tonight and I thought it was very cool to see it is still being used 1600 years after it was built.
Porto Negra by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Porta Negra by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Amphitheater by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Down the wide centrum we go to see Emperor Constantine’s Abbey - another immense building still used today. Walking inside and I was struck by its size and the austere nature of the interior. Several modern art works adorn it in places but for most of its space, there is nothing and my eyes are drawn to the ceiling. It's flat! No arches, made of wood. Walking back to the exit I see an immense modern pipe organ fills the back wall. Yikes! Too sterile for me but impressive just the same. Back outside we wander around to the front and it's for the most part hidden by a newer structure: White and Pink and highly decorated in the Rococo style with an assortment of white statues and carvings with gold accents.
Constantine Abby by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

I found the statues to be kind of bizarre...the oddest of all was a cherub wearing what looked like one of the Canadian hunters hats - the one like Elmer Fudd wore.. This cherub is brandishing a gold rifle!
Rococo Oddity by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

There were large numbers of folks out milling about enjoying the afternoon. Musicians were playing in different areas around the Centrum. My favorite was a guy playing a harp in the gardens in front of that white and pink monstrosity. It seemed perfect.
The music matched the setting by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We decided to splurge and eat at an outdoor restaurant in the main square. Schnitzel and potatoes with a beer. Welcome to Germany!
The bugs are starting to feast on me here outside at the picnic table AT our campsite. Time to go inside the tent for the night.
I think I'm gonna love Germany too!
Goodnight

northbend 

Field Note 7

I'm sitting in a bistro at a campground across the river from Koblenz this afternoon. A storm just rolled in with thunder, rain and gusty winds. It's nice to see it from inside a building sitting in a chair with a table to hold my beer.

We've been camping every day since we reached France almost a month ago. I've described how the campgrounds are here in Europe with an almost universal lack of picnic tables and it's beginning to take its toll on my back. It's quite sore from sitting on the ground all the time. Rolling out of the tent each morning is a delicate process of gradually finding the least painful way to get upright. But I'm having a great time. Riding along the Moselle (Mosel in Germany) has been a real delight. It was mostly flat, riding through vineyards and small charming towns heavily dependent of the wine industry and the tourism it attracts. If you like wine, put this place on your "to do" list. You ride dedicated bike trails and signposted lanes on roads past a seemingly endless number of wine gardens.
Wine country by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Wine country by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Wine Country by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

The river twists and turns through the hills here offering up something to see at every turn. Castles, old 1/2 timbered houses, churches and a myriad of ship traffic grab your attention. Many, many cyclists of all ages, shapes and sizes enjoying the good life.
Bernkastel-Kues by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

On the road to Koblenz by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Watched from above by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

The Bielstein Ferry by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Cochem by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

northbend 

Yesterday we took a rest day and explored Burg Eltz

https://burg-eltz.de/en/the-castle

I've been here a few times before and it's always interesting. An original intact castle owned by the same family for 900 years, it was fun to see Mario experience it for the first time.
We take on Burg Eltz by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

It was a painfully steep climb up from the river on the bikes to see it. A real beauty of a climb actually.
Above the river by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

We rode to Koblenz today - the end of the Mosel where it meets the Rhine.
Where the Mosel meets the Rhine by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Our neighbors in Koblenz by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr
It's also the end of our ride together. Tomorrow morning, Mario heads north to visit relatives in Husum some 700km away. I'm heading south to Frankfurt for my flight home. That's just 120km away..
So the trip is almost over. I will be taking it slow and easy along the Rhine, savoring every moment. I'm grateful for the opportunity to do this trip and very grateful Mario joined me and helped keep us on track and my wheel alive. He's a great traveling companion. I will miss his company but also look forward to doing a bit of solo travel.
Most of all, I am most grateful for my wife's support and prayers. As it is with any long trip I start to really yearn to be home when the end is in sight. It will be an interesting week slowing down and savoring each day and feeling the draw twords home.

Field Note 8

Safe n sound in Frankfurt now. I arrived a day earlier than expected. My back has been really sore this past week even with the fewer days and riding shorter distances. I needed a bed, a table, and a chair.

A month of camping without those things were taking its toll so yesterday I rode from Rudesheim to a hotel near the airport.
After leaving Rudesheim, the route in my opinion was less interesting. The river valley widens and there's less to see as you pass through modern towns and industrial areas that look very much like the Green River Valley from Auburn to Tukwila. One thing I thought about yesterday was the differences that France and Germany have in bicycle infrastructure and general attitudes twords cycling. France is a lovely mess of riding surfaces. Routes are marked everywhere. Roads, rail trails, dedicated bike lanes, alleyways, dirt paths. There's an almost universal respect for cyclists by auto drivers. They pass giving you plenty of room or wait until its safe to pass. Old men look at you wistfully as you ride by, remembering their younger days perhaps? Pretty women in dresses blow by you on their mixtes in the cities on their way to work. The bike is simply a fixture in French life.

In Germany, the bike is very much an accepted part of their transportation system and people of all ages, shapes, and sizes use them too. But in Germany is more auto-centric. The German approach is to keep bicycles and autos separate as much as possible. There an astounding amount of bike lanes and paths and marked routes are frequently seen. But understand, if you venture onto the roads, the auto is king.
Still, I feel much safer riding in Germany than in the US.

So I last wrote from Koblenz where Mario and I parted ways. This was a week of slowly riding through the Rhine Valley. The section between Koblenz and Rudesheim being listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for a good reason. It is quite beautiful dotted with old towns some of which are extremely old, founded by the Romans. At each old town look up and you're likely to see a castle perched high on the hill above it. Many are in ruin and a sizable number have been restored somewhat and made into hotels. The Rhine was and still is a major trading route. Armies have fought over it for 1000's of years. Castles were built to extract tolls from traders going up n down the river.
Nowadays, the river busy with low and long, skinny riverboats. Many of these simply carry cargo but there are numerous cruise ships too. The cruise ships will make stops at popular towns along the way and briefly overwhelm these places. It makes for interesting viewing which I had plenty of time for. I spent 2 days camping at St. Goar and another 2 days in Rudesheim.

I vastly preferred St. Goar.
St. Goar by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

My campsite on the Rhine by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

northbend 

There was a nice sandy swimming beach near my camp that I took advantage of. It's a great way to cool off and wash your shorts at the same time.
Swimming beach tomorrow on my day off by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

There's a large castle above town, Reinfels that was once the largest castle on the Rhein before it was largely destroyed by the French in the 18th century. I walked up and toured it the morning of my rest day. Walking seems to help my back.
Reinfels by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

The view from Reinfels by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

The view from Reinfels by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Rudesheim is far more touristy. I counted 5 cruise ships moored at the quay by my campsite. I arrived early afternoon Sunday and was totally put off by the crowds and trinket shops that all look the same but still, the camping site was shady and I was hoping to give the back some rest.
Rudesheim campground by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Rest doesn't come easy living on the ground. My mattress began to fail recently, creating large blisters in several places-an uneven surface making it had to get a comfortable position. At least this campsite had benches nearby where I could take my food and eat with come level of comfort. I was up early on Monday and went to walk around the town while most tourists were still sleeping. This was more like it! The light was good for photographs and the walk, good for the back.
Rudesheim by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Rudesheim by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Rudesheim by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Later that afternoon I walked over to view the Hindenburg Bridge ruins bordering to campsite. Another reminder of this rivers violent past, it was blown up by the Nazis in 1945 hoping to slow the Allied advance into Germany.
The Hindenburg Bridge. Destroyed by the Germans to slow the Allied forces advance in 1945... by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

In town, there is another reminder of a bombing in 1944 by the US that killed over 100 people in a school. When I looked into the history of that raid, it was a botched mission where they attempted to hit a military target a few miles away. That night I dreamt about that and didn't sleep well.
So the decision was made to get to the hotel early the next day. A bed, table, and chair are wonderful things. Got some great rest and the back spasms stopped. My own bathroom with all the hot water and soap I want to shower in at my disposal any time I want it. Downright luxurious. I walked over to the Airport today and found out they have bike boxes for sale for packing the bike on Friday. My plan is to load up the bike one more time to ride it there for my flight out Friday afternoon. So this is not the last Euro Note after all!

I'll write again one I get home. I have a free day tomorrow for some sightseeing in Frankfurt. Maybe take a picture or two.
See? It's all working out :-)

northbend 

Field note 9

I'm flying over Greenland as I begin this note. Got nothing better to do right now. Flying always amazes me.
Especially after a long bike tour where you go from riding slow over the terrain, earning each mile dealing with hills and wind and navigational challenges.
Mechanical issues (especially on this trip) add an additional stress mentally.

But slow travel is so rich to the spirit. The effort of it as you move over the ground, feeling the textures of the surface beneath you, the weather, and the sounds and smells you encounter along the way each day leave an indelible mark on you.
You meet alot of kind and friendly people and realize they're not so different than ourselves.
Now I'm in a pressurized tube crammed full of people flying 38,000 ft above the earth at nearly 580mph and the outside temperature is minus 50 degrees. A cocoon of sorts. We sit in our seats and there's rarely any interaction.
We're all quietly dealing with discomfort from sitting for hours in cramped close proximity to each other and yet, in a few more hours I'll be home some 9 time zones away from where I was this morning. The arrival time in Seattle on the clock being just 2 hours later than when I left Frankfurt.

I love the takeoffs and landings especially and the views of the earth during those times.
Bye Germany by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

I like it when I have a window seat near the wing and watch the wing change shape with all those moving pieces.
There's always a moment during takeoffs and landings when I'm acutely aware my life is not mine to control. I pray and acknowledge the sovereignty of God and place my trust in the skill of the flight crew, the maintenance workers, the manufacturer of the craft, Air Traffic Control and the science that makes flight a reality. That probably sounds corny but it's truly what goes on in my thoughts each time I fly.
So in a few hours we land, the distance traveled is great but I doubt I'll remember much about the flight after a few days at home.
Funny how that is...

But I'll never forget our 1st night camping on Clare Island or the ride out to the Abbey the next day and feeling my mom's presence there in a graveyard full of O'Malleys looking over the water at the mountains we'd be riding through later that day.
Clare Camp by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

The narrow country lanes of the rural Irish countryside
The classic Irish riding scene compliments of Mario by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Riding the Aran island of Innishmore to the Iron Age Fort of Dun Aonghosa
A typical road on the Aran Islands by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Or the ride to Dingle where we went over Healy Pass then watching Mario descend the other side like a motorcycle racer he formally was.
Conor Pass view by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Or riding out to the Gallarus Oratory and having the place to ourselves.
How we first saw the Oratory by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Or the stunning ride across the Gap of Dunloe.
The Gap of Dunloe by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Or crossing the Beara Peninsula on that tiny goat track of a road. The road so steep it crushes your soul if it weren't so incredibly beautiful.
Ruff stuff - a most amazing mountain road by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

northbend 

Wheeling our bikes onto the giant ferry that took us to France and watching Ireland disappear on the horizon then waking up the next morning as we prepared to dock in Brittany.
A pint of Murphys as Ireland slips away by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

That first day riding in France though incredibly old towns seeing huge numbers of cyclists out enjoying their Sunday then finding a tree lined trail that we spent most of the day riding along past beautiful streams and farms.
A stop along the trail by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Or riding along the canals and rivers to Mont St. Michel, seeing it floating on the horizon like the Emerald City in the Kingdom of Oz
and walking the Mont alone on rubbery legs in the evening once most of the tourists had left for the day.
The Abbey by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Or riding a path along the Mayenne River to Angers and celebrating with a Frenchman the fish he’d just landed.
A proud fisherman on the Mayenne by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Or the evening ride in Amboise past Troglodyte homes and the Castle across the river from our campsite.
Amboise by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Or deciding to go off route and ride through wine country near Chablis . The quiet country roads past fields of red poppies growing wild at the edges of roads and in farmers fallow fields.
On the road to Troyes by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Then discovering the true gem of following the Moselle/Mosel. I really wish we had savored that section more it was so beautiful.
Morning on the Mosel by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Then of course, the Rhine between Koblenz and Rudesheim. My bike and my back both making me slow down and really savor it. The sweet and sour sauce of bike riding.
Castles of the Rhine by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

The simple pleasure of stopping somewhere along the road in a peaceful spot and eating lunch
Grazing in the field by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

Then, today, loading the bike up one last time and riding to Frankfurt airport, buying a box there, taking the bike apart in the arrivals area and packaging it up for the flight home.
I'll never forget those miles.

Post script - I’m home now finishing up this note.Unfortunately, by bike isn’t with me. Apparently it wasn’t loaded onto the plane in Frankfurt. I filled out a claim with the airline and I hope to find out its fate sometime soon. Frankfurt Airport was a circus on Friday and the gate our plane was supposed to be loading at was changed at the last minute so it wasn’t too suprising.
I know some other passengers on that flight were missing bulky luggage too.

randallr

WOW! Thank you for this beautiful report!!

gaucho777 

Wow! Those photos are amazing. About 20 years ago, my wife & I took a 3-week tour of Ireland, my grandmother’s homeland, but we took a car. Your photos bring back some wonderful memories. Looks like you had a spectacular tour. Thanks for sharing your travelogue and pics.

northbend 

So what happened to the bike?
In case you were wondering, I got a call yesterday from the Airline saying my bike arrived on the afternoon flight. I just got through unpacking it and cleaning it up.
No damage except for some minor scratches on the down tube. I replaced the wheels that had gave me so much trouble with a spare wheelset I had on hand. I gave it a good wash and replaced the chain. I look forward to riding it again once my back feels better.
A day later, the bike is home by Matthew Pendergast, on Flickr

So with that, this is the end of the Euro Field Note saga.

Matt

mpetry912 

what an amazing adventure Matt ! and great pics. Look forward to seeing you in a couple weeks and hearing the stories !

/markp

iab

Hell of a trip. I'm always envious.

Bergz

Lovely report and photography, the quiet roads and canal paths through France sound especially nice. Nice Woodrup too, looks like a "Giro" model. What tires did you use? they look like Continental Ride Tour

non-fixie 

Thank you, Matt, for the elaborate report and the pictures! I thoroughly enjoyed them.

We were actually fairly close to bumping into each other, as mrs non-fixie and I just got back from the Anjou Vélo Vintage weekend in Saumur. We must have passed by that 'colorful house' at least a dozen times. And Eltville am Rhein is the home turf of Eroica Germania, where hope to be again again next month.

gugie 

It ain't the life of Riley, it's the life of Matt. I'm happy just to live vicariouly through his field notes.