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Old 04-24-24, 07:51 PM
  #26  
smd4
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
For better or worse, some of us learned this kind of stuff long before manufacturers provided instructions.
Ferris Bueller, you’re my hero!
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Old 04-24-24, 07:54 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by smd4
And all this time I’ve just followed the manufacturer’s instructions.

Silly me.
Nothing wrong with doing so, except that chain length instructions for Shimano come with the derailleur, but SRAM come with the chain. If you buy a SRAM chain for your Shimano derailleur bike, which instructions?


The nice thing about knowing how bikes work is that you can choose options that are better than what the instructions say. At the shops I worked at we set the chain long if it caused no issues because it was better for the customers.
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Old 04-24-24, 07:56 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Nothing wrong with doing so, except that chain length instructions for Shimano come with the derailleur, but SRAM come with the chain. If you buy a SRAM chain for your Shimano derailleur bike, which instructions?
Obviously the derailleur. Because chain link lengths are so different.

Last edited by smd4; 04-24-24 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 04-24-24, 07:58 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by smd4
Obviously the derailleur.
Obvious to everyone?
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Old 04-24-24, 08:03 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Obvious to everyone?
Your point was which instructions to use. If it isn’t obvious to “everyone,” then those people need to visit the bike shop.
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Old 04-24-24, 08:12 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by smd4
Your point was which instructions to use. If it isn’t obvious to “everyone,” then those people need to visit the bike shop.
The problem we see in this forum, over and over, is that people don't know what they don't know. If you have a bike already and you buy a chain, the only instructions you're aware of are the ones in the chain package.
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Old 04-24-24, 08:17 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
The problem we see in this forum, over and over, is that people don't know what they don't know. If you have a bike already and you buy a chain, the only instructions you're aware of are the ones in the chain package.
I guess. This is sort of the problem. You and I have both dealt with it. Bicycles are “simple” machines. Replacing a chain should be a simple matter.
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Old 04-24-24, 08:26 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Nothing wrong with doing so, except that chain length instructions for Shimano come with the derailleur, but SRAM come with the chain. If you buy a SRAM chain for your Shimano derailleur bike, which instructions?


The nice thing about knowing how bikes work is that you can choose options that are better than what the instructions say. At the shops I worked at we set the chain long if it caused no issues because it was better for the customers.
Even worse, you buy a Shimano chain and a SRAM rear derailleur, sounds like you get nothing! My 50/34 hollow spindle 2-piece crank came with zero instructions. Fortunately, I was able to find online, general torque specs for the external bearings and left arm clamp bolts, and the preload end cap had the torque spec molded into it.

Bought new car distributor on amazon, came with zero instructions. Thank goodness there was a great private video on youtube on how and where to use a paper clip to short the timing advance and then how to time it. These things used to be more straightforward. Newer cars have no distributor.
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Old 04-24-24, 08:36 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by smd4
I guess. This is sort of the problem. You and I have both dealt with it. Bicycles are “simple” machines. Replacing a chain should be a simple matter.
They were simple devices. The current Shimano front derailleurs are anything but. And it isn't necessary.

In many ways, modern bikes are more problematic than the ones they replaced. But you get an extra cog and a half pound less bike.


But the easiest way to replace a chain is to just make the new chain the same length as the old one.

Last edited by Kontact; 04-24-24 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 04-24-24, 09:00 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
But the easiest way to replace a chain is to just make the new chain the same length as the old one.
That may be giving undue credit to the previous guy.
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Old 04-24-24, 09:03 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by grumpus
That may be giving undue credit to the previous guy.
The previous guy might have also installed gearing that has no correct chain length. My MTB chain is "too long", but I don't shift into those gears.

I was just speaking about replacing the chain on a working bike, not building a bike out of parts.
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Old 04-25-24, 05:08 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
But the easiest way to replace a chain is to just make the new chain the same length as the old one.
That’s why I’m curious as to how the OP arrived at this particular length. Did he measure it against the old chain? Maybe just eyeball it? It’s so short that I have a hard time understanding how this length was determined. With the OP AWOL, we may never know.
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Old 04-25-24, 05:35 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
That might have been me. I've always sized chains this way, preferring to carry the longest chain that works.

But you have to follow the entire set of instructions, understanding that small/small is used to determine the MAXIMUM chain length, and big/big the MINIMUM.
Also, that the MINIMUM is the more critical consideration.
It wasn't you FBinNY, it was kcjc.

Originally Posted by kcjc
He was referring to me because I make him the fool. He died on the hill stating the MAXIMUM chain length is derived from big/big.
Nope. I never argued for such a thing. That's revisionist history to hide your own humiliation.

You said chains should be sized based purely on small small. I and a bunch of others tried to explain to you that sizing a chain blindly on small small is a terrible idea because a mechanic cannot safely assume that every unknown bike's owner has installed a derailleur with sufficient capacity. It will damage the drivetrain and bike frame.

It went back and forth for a while but ultimately you were too unintelligent to understand, and insisted that sizing only based on small small was totally fine... And that's the hill you died on. A person like you had no business touching bikes.

Don't tell lies, dummy.

Last edited by Yan; 04-25-24 at 06:04 AM.
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Old 04-25-24, 05:39 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Too many claiming the crown....

Will the real fool please stand up.
Originally Posted by Kontact
I would enjoy reading that debate...
You'll never read that debate because it's a fabrication that he just invented.
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Old 04-25-24, 06:14 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Small small is best as long as you know the total capacity doesn't exceed the derailleur capacity. Max chain length puts less wear on the drivetrain and future proofs the bike against a larger cassette being added without accounting for chain length.

Any fool would know that.
That's a big assumption to make if you're working on an unknown bike.

It would be fine if you only ever work on your own bikes.
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Old 04-25-24, 06:30 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Yan
That's a big assumption to make if you're working on an unknown bike.

It would be fine if you only ever work on your own bikes.
Not really. Aside from many derailleurs having a fairly obvious capacity, you can check it simply by putting the amount of chain you've measured from small small on the Big Big before cutting. Pretty easy.
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Old 04-25-24, 06:33 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Not really. Aside from many derailleurs having a fairly obvious capacity, you can check it simply by putting the amount of chain you've measured from small small on the Big Big before cutting. Pretty easy.
Yeah, as long as you also check big big before install, it's fine.

The problem is that some people such as kcjc don't bother with this step.
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Old 04-25-24, 06:34 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Yan
The problem is that some people such as kcjc don't bother with this step.
That is what you are claiming.
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Old 04-25-24, 06:41 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by smd4
I guess. This is sort of the problem. You and I have both dealt with it. Bicycles are “simple” machines. Replacing a chain should be a simple matter.
Everything is simple for those who know. As Kontact pointed out, people don't know what they don't know.
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Old 04-25-24, 08:04 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Yan
You'll never read that debate because it's a fabrication that he just invented.
Enjoy, starts with post #11, https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...l#post23167036

Originally Posted by Yan
Nope. I never argued for such a thing. That's revisionist history to hide your own humiliation.

You said chains should be sized based purely on small small. I and a bunch of others tried to explain to you that sizing a chain blindly on small small is a terrible idea because a mechanic cannot safely assume that every unknown bike's owner has installed a derailleur with sufficient capacity. It will damage the drivetrain and bike frame.

It went back and forth for a while but ultimately you were too unintelligent to understand, and insisted that sizing only based on small small was totally fine... And that's the hill you died on. A person like you had no business touching bikes.

Don't tell lies, dummy.
Originally Posted by Yan
Yeah, as long as you also check big big before install, it's fine.

The problem is that some people such as kcjc don't bother with this step.
You are not only mentally challenged but morally absent. Your whole BS was small/small technique would result in a chain that is too short, so stop pretending now others have joined in and point out your mistake. The community can judge for themselves as you cannot delete the thread or edit my responses that quote your replies. So are you going to cry to admin to purge the thread next?!
https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...hain-help.html
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Old 04-25-24, 08:07 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
That is what you are claiming.
Yes. That IS what I'm claiming. What are you going to do about it?

Maybe you have amnesia, but there was a multi page back and forth with that idiot last time on this exact topic.
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Old 04-25-24, 08:17 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by kcjc
Enjoy, starts with post #11, https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...l#post23167036





You are not only mentally challenged but morally absent. Your whole BS was small/small technique would result in a chain that is too short, so stop pretending now others have joined in and point out your mistake. The community can judge for themselves as you cannot delete the thread or edit my responses that quote your replies. So are you going to cry to admin to purge the thread next?!
https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...hain-help.html
Yes, That's exactly the thread I'm talking about.

What's with the gaslighting? Are you a psycho or what? Anyone can read that thread and immediately notice that you're clueless. Check it out, direct quotes from our conversation in the thread you linked:

Originally Posted by Yan
That would work fine on an officially compatible groupset, but if you accidentally followed this procedure on a mismatched drivetrain, you could end up with a too-short chain which would cause your drivetrain to explode the first time you ride the bike. Sizing big-big and ending up with your derailleur unable to take up all the slack is no big deal. Sizing small-small and ending up with a too short chain will snap your derailleur off, probably damaging the frame in the process.
Originally Posted by kcjc
Uhm? That's BS. At worst, you would end up with a chain that might be too long. It's based on the chain ring and rear derailleur; branding plays no role except for the length of the derailleur cage (and pulley for those that buy into that crap) and the number of teeth on the front chain ring. My bike on the trainer is a mix of drivetrain, and it works fine if you follow directions.
You think that if one blindly sizes based on small-small, then "at worst, you would end up with a chain that might be too long?" That's literally word for word what you said. It's right there in the quote.

You deny saying that? HELLO??? What kind of next level shameless psycho lying is this? Did you even bother to read the thread before you tried to gaslight everybody?

No, idiot. At worst would not be "end up with a chain that might be too long". At worst would be your derailleur snaps in half and your derailleur hanger is ripped off your frame.

And just to remove any doubt about how clueless you are, here you are later in the same thread arguing with other people who tried to tell you that it's a bad idea"

Originally Posted by bboy314
I would consider telling someone to size a chain based on the small ring/small cog combo, without knowing anything else about their setup, misinformation or at least bad advice.
Originally Posted by kcjc
And you would be very misinformed

What's your next excuse, that it's the mechanic's fault for not first making sure the bike's components haven't been messed with?

Originally Posted by RCMoeur
Another thing I've learned through experience is to never presume the components on a bicycle are the ones it was sold or speced with.
Originally Posted by kcjc
It wouldn't make a difference. The controlling parameters are the front rings, cogs, and derailleur. Either method applies

"It wouldn't make a difference," he says. There goes that excuse.

Do everybody a favor, never touch a bicycle again in your life. This forum is going to the dogs more everyday with absolute amateur hack mechanics like yourself polluting the space with terrible incorrect posts. If you want to screw with your own stuff like an idiot, fine, but don't sabotage others and cause them to damage their bikes.

Last edited by Yan; 04-25-24 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 04-25-24, 09:02 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Yan
You think that if one blindly sizes based on small-small, then "at worst, you would end up with a chain that might be too long?" That's literally word for word what you said. It's right there in the quote.
Yes, that's a typo. You insisted small/small would result in a chain that is too short.
Originally Posted by Yan
You deny saying that? HELLO??? What kind of next level shameless psycho lying is this? Did you even bother to read the thread before you tried to gaslight everybody?
Yes. I recommend small/small as a chain sizing method, and you insisted that it was faulty because it would produce a chain that's too short and that would destroy the bike. I rejected your assertions, and you continued the argument by citing red herrings.
Originally Posted by Yan
No, idiot. At worst would not be "end up with a chain that might be too long". At worst would be your derailleur snaps in half and your derailleur hanger is ripped off your frame.
This is the exact opposite of your proposition in the threat, and now that others have found you faulty because you assert the same nonsense in this threat.
Originally Posted by Yan
At worst would be your derailleur snaps in half and your derailleur hanger is ripped off your frame.
This deserves a second. It was your foundation argument for a chain that's too short, now it is also too long? Please tell us the last time you encountered a chain that was too long and snapped and ripped a derailleur hanger off a frame by itself?!
Originally Posted by Yan
Do everybody a favor, never touch a bicycle again in your life. This forum is going to the dogs more everyday with clueless hack mechanics like yourself polluting the space with terrible incorrect posts. If you want to screw with your own stuff like a clueless idiot, fine, but don't sabotage others.
Projection, much?! Stay out of my lane, and I won't have to demonstrate your inadequacies publicly.
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Old 04-25-24, 09:15 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Yan
Originally Posted by Yan
That would work fine on an officially compatible groupset, but if you accidentally followed this procedure on a mismatched drivetrain, you could end up with a too-short chain which would cause your drivetrain to explode the first time you ride the bike. Sizing big-big and ending up with your derailleur unable to take up all the slack is no big deal. Sizing small-small and ending up with a too short chain will snap your derailleur off, probably damaging the frame in the process.
Originally Posted by kcjc
Uhm? That's BS. At worst, you would end up with a chain that might be too long. It's based on the chain ring and rear derailleur; branding plays no role except for the length of the derailleur cage (and pulley for those that buy into that crap) and the number of teeth on the front chain ring. My bike on the trainer is a mix of drivetrain, and it works fine if you follow directions.
You forgot to highlight your main proposition, which was found to be faulty in both threads.
Originally Posted by Yan
Sizing small-small and ending up with a too short chain will snap your derailleur off, probably damaging the frame in the process.
Once again, you are mentally challenged and morally absent.
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Old 04-25-24, 09:17 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by kcjc
Yes, that's a typo. You insisted small/small would result in a chain that is too short.
Originally Posted by kcjc
You forgot to highlight your main proposition, which was found to be faulty in both threads. Once again, you are mentally challenged and morally absent.
What's a typo? Your post was a typo? I'm arguing with a typo? Oh my god....

You seem to think that I somehow suggested that small small would "always" result in a too short chain. Where in the freaking hell did I say "always"? Where is your reading comprehension???

What I said was:
Originally Posted by Yan
That would work fine on an officially compatible groupset, but if you accidentally followed this procedure on a mismatched drivetrain, you could end up with a too-short chain which would cause your drivetrain to explode the first time you ride the bike. Sizing big-big and ending up with your derailleur unable to take up all the slack is no big deal. Sizing small-small and ending up with a too short chain will snap your derailleur off, probably damaging the frame in the process.
You see the word "but" in my first sentence? That's where A) and B) are separated. Why do I need to explain grade 3 English class grammar rules to you? Again, where is your reading comprehension? Do you mean to tell me that this entire argument originated from the fact that you don't know how to read?

What I said was A) it would work fine on a compatible drive train; however B) it wouldn't work on a mismatched drivetrain.

And since mechanics work on unknown bikes, it's too dangerous to blindly assume what the previous guy installed was compatible. The question is not whether you know what is compatible on YOUR OWN bike. The question is, as a mechanic working on unknown bikes, do you know what the PREVIOUS guy installed? No you don't know, so you'd better not blindly assume, because if you blindly assume wrong, then you'll damage the bike.

What's difficult to understand about this child level simple concept??? HELLO???


Originally Posted by RCMoeur
Another thing I've learned through experience is to never presume the components on a bicycle are the ones it was sold or speced with.
Originally Posted by kcjc
It wouldn't make a difference. The controlling parameters are the front rings, cogs, and derailleur. Either method applies
"It wouldn't make a difference," he says. Facepalm...

Last edited by Yan; 04-25-24 at 09:24 AM.
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