Headset for '70s frame - How not tight is too not tight enough?
#1
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Headset for '70s frame - How not tight is too not tight enough?
The 'problem' is that both upper and lower cups fit rather easily into the headtube of this '72 Holdsworth Pro. They only become snug with ~1 to 1.5mm remaining and could be pressed in by hand the remaining distance with little effort. I checked with a new headset and new fits even more loosely. The bottom race was pressed on to the fork crown by bike shop so I intend to proceed with the assembly (after I source caged bearings), but my query to the group is:
1. Should I build as normal, test ride and if normal = forget-about-it?
2. Build it and substitute a thread lock product instead of grease?
3. Something else?
This is a rough build to ride and verify the frameset straightness, characteristics, etc. But the headset issue must be decided. Might be a keeper and worth re-doing paint & decals if all goes well.
Pics show the small distance left after lightly putting into place.
Thanks in advance for all opinions.
1. Should I build as normal, test ride and if normal = forget-about-it?
2. Build it and substitute a thread lock product instead of grease?
3. Something else?
This is a rough build to ride and verify the frameset straightness, characteristics, etc. But the headset issue must be decided. Might be a keeper and worth re-doing paint & decals if all goes well.
Pics show the small distance left after lightly putting into place.
Thanks in advance for all opinions.
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#2
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Blue Loctite certainly can't hurt. If you don't think they'll spin but you're still a little unsure, an easy way to verify is to build it up and make a Sharpie mark on both pieces and inspect alignment periodically.
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My take? I'd tap those cups in, build it up and ride it. Do some hard braking on hills and see if you feel any clicking, Likewise over rough pavement. NO? forget about it. Yes but only once in a while? Ride it until it bets bad or the bike needs a paint job. Take to a framebuilder, have him slather in braze and ream to the proper diameter. Done for good.
Tougher call if this is a flip. Can't help you there. (FBNy or Andrew might step in and have better advice but there's mine. There is no safety issue here, just the possibility of a little irritating noise/feel.)
Tougher call if this is a flip. Can't help you there. (FBNy or Andrew might step in and have better advice but there's mine. There is no safety issue here, just the possibility of a little irritating noise/feel.)
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The 'problem' is that both upper and lower cups fit rather easily into the headtube of this '72 Holdsworth Pro. They only become snug with ~1 to 1.5mm remaining and could be pressed in by hand the remaining distance with little effort. I checked with a new headset and new fits even more loosely. The bottom race was pressed on to the fork crown by bike shop so I intend to proceed with the assembly (after I source caged bearings), but my query to the group is:
1. Should I build as normal, test ride and if normal = forget-about-it?
2. Build it and substitute a thread lock product instead of grease?
3. Something else?
This is a rough build to ride and verify the frameset straightness, characteristics, etc. But the headset issue must be decided. Might be a keeper and worth re-doing paint & decals if all goes well.
Pics show the small distance left after lightly putting into place.
Thanks in advance for all opinions.
1. Should I build as normal, test ride and if normal = forget-about-it?
2. Build it and substitute a thread lock product instead of grease?
3. Something else?
This is a rough build to ride and verify the frameset straightness, characteristics, etc. But the headset issue must be decided. Might be a keeper and worth re-doing paint & decals if all goes well.
Pics show the small distance left after lightly putting into place.
Thanks in advance for all opinions.
It needs to be a tight fit and never waller anymore at all, its already loose, needs to be arrested here and now IMO.
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The 'problem' is that both upper and lower cups fit rather easily into the headtube of this '72 Holdsworth Pro. They only become snug with ~1 to 1.5mm remaining and could be pressed in by hand the remaining distance with little effort. I checked with a new headset and new fits even more loosely. The bottom race was pressed on to the fork crown by bike shop so I intend to proceed with the assembly (after I source caged bearings), but my query to the group is:
1. Should I build as normal, test ride and if normal = forget-about-it?
2. Build it and substitute a thread lock product instead of grease?
3. Something else?
This is a rough build to ride and verify the frameset straightness, characteristics, etc. But the headset issue must be decided. Might be a keeper and worth re-doing paint & decals if all goes well.
Pics show the small distance left after lightly putting into place.
Thanks in advance for all opinions.
1. Should I build as normal, test ride and if normal = forget-about-it?
2. Build it and substitute a thread lock product instead of grease?
3. Something else?
This is a rough build to ride and verify the frameset straightness, characteristics, etc. But the headset issue must be decided. Might be a keeper and worth re-doing paint & decals if all goes well.
Pics show the small distance left after lightly putting into place.
Thanks in advance for all opinions.
#7
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No tin can shim will be used. And it is not that loose, imho.
edit: Won't be a high mileage bike (my 'pack' mentality) - so running the headset a bit tight is a good idea, @merziac
edit: Won't be a high mileage bike (my 'pack' mentality) - so running the headset a bit tight is a good idea, @merziac
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Last edited by Wildwood; 02-08-24 at 04:40 PM.
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Yeah, I realize the shim hack is really a kludge too far but I have used it with %100 success long term several times, I never trust any wiggle without proper tightness, shims almost always employed.
25 years of drag racing mc's taught me to never trust a potential problem without some sort of robust mitigation often in the form of a hack.
You rarely have the luxury of a proper fix to make the next round but you have to be reasonably sure it and you will make it down the track again.
25 years of drag racing mc's taught me to never trust a potential problem without some sort of robust mitigation often in the form of a hack.
You rarely have the luxury of a proper fix to make the next round but you have to be reasonably sure it and you will make it down the track again.