Wrapping bar tape
05-16-17, 07:49 PM
#27
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I agree. I've never had edge roll-up either, even with the thicker tapes.
05-16-17, 09:08 PM
#28
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I just re-wrapped the bars on my Varsity. They still had the original translucent red plastic tape. It was wrapped from the stem out and down to the ends of the bars, so when I put the new tape on, that's what I did. I didn't even think about trying it the other way.
05-16-17, 11:54 PM
#29
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05-17-17, 03:53 PM
#31
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Many, many years ago, cloth tape was often done this way. If you did it REALLY tight and plugged the end into a bar plug, you could get by without finishing with sticky tape. A wrap like this shellaced loks really nice.
But, doing it this way with modern tape leaves the overlap facing you, and within a week or two, the edges start to roll due to sliding force from your hands.
But, doing it this way with modern tape leaves the overlap facing you, and within a week or two, the edges start to roll due to sliding force from your hands.
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05-19-17, 12:04 AM
#32
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I go bottom to top, use electrical tape to finish. I rarely rife with my hand that far in so it getting soft in hot weather in not much of an issue and it is so cheap, replacing it isn't a big deal.
One thing I do obsess over is how I wrap it. The bar tape itself I wrap as follows - I start from the right side bar end counter clockwise looking from the rear, left side opposite so the tape comes across the top of the bar end pointing in. I wrap the electrical tape in the same direction as the bar tape, three times around and finish just behind the brake cable under the tops. That way the tape is coming over the tops pointing back and my wrists tend to tighten both the bar tape and electrical tape when I pull on them hill climbing on the tops.
Ben
One thing I do obsess over is how I wrap it. The bar tape itself I wrap as follows - I start from the right side bar end counter clockwise looking from the rear, left side opposite so the tape comes across the top of the bar end pointing in. I wrap the electrical tape in the same direction as the bar tape, three times around and finish just behind the brake cable under the tops. That way the tape is coming over the tops pointing back and my wrists tend to tighten both the bar tape and electrical tape when I pull on them hill climbing on the tops.
Ben
That's exactly what I do.
05-19-17, 05:07 AM
#33
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Many, many years ago, cloth tape was often done this way. If you did it REALLY tight and plugged the end into a bar plug, you could get by without finishing with sticky tape. A wrap like this shellaced loks really nice.
But, doing it this way with modern tape leaves the overlap facing you, and within a week or two, the edges start to roll due to sliding force from your hands.
But, doing it this way with modern tape leaves the overlap facing you, and within a week or two, the edges start to roll due to sliding force from your hands.
05-19-17, 06:47 AM
#34
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The "official" Schwinn way is to start 2" away from the stem. It instructs to leave that open triangle shape at the brake levers and continue on and tuck the tape in the bar end and put the bar end plugs in to hold it. I use a sliver of clear scotch tape to hold it at the start but you don't have to. I also go around the brake hoods to eliminate the triangle. That also requires about an inch and a half piece of loose bar tape be used to help fill the triangle, wrap around that. Using nos Schwinn tape leaves absolutely no room for error when eliminating the triangle, you will run out of tape on the larger diameter alloy bars. Trim tape just looks wrong and hokey. When I first saw it my impression was the installer didn't know what he was doing.
05-19-17, 08:49 AM
#35
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The way Schwinn suggests is the way I was taught back in the late 60's. When I got back into biking in 2008, it changed to bar end to stem. I was confused but remembered how badly the curling was back in the day.
Another way that has been suggested in other threads, is to wrap both ways ending at the brake lever. Best of both worlds from a edge curling approach. An alternative to trim tape is twine wrap.
WRT "cleavage," with thinner tape, we use to double wrap around the brake lever base. With todays cork (thicker) tape, it gets too bulky.
Another way that has been suggested in other threads, is to wrap both ways ending at the brake lever. Best of both worlds from a edge curling approach. An alternative to trim tape is twine wrap.
WRT "cleavage," with thinner tape, we use to double wrap around the brake lever base. With todays cork (thicker) tape, it gets too bulky.
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05-19-17, 09:18 AM
#36
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There used to be ribbon collars with molded space for the brake lever cable. These attached with a small allen screw. Wish the hell I could find some. Any shop I talk to about them-look at me weird... LOL Good idea on the heated spoke branding/who knew?
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