Racing Question; Am I simply too Poor?
#26
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You can get a decent bike at your stated budget, with 105 components, a full carbon frame that fits you, brand new from a reputable dealership, a pair of shoes, clipless pedals, two bottle cages, two bottles, an under the saddle bag, a spare innertube, tire levers, mini bike pump, helmet, and a pair of riding shorts for $1500. Then if you're serious about it, in two years, you can upgrade your wheels for $2k and be on pretty much the lightest bike around.
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OP's goal is racing, but he has so much to learn and fitness to build, I don't think he needs to worry about the costs associated with actually participating in races for quite a while.
Right now cost really means the cost of the bike, pedals (perhaps), bottle cages, bottles, emergency tool kit, pump, shoes, shorts and jerseys, and helmet. The funny thing is that even that long list of all new stuff can be had for OP's declared budget during a sale at Performance. An aluminum, on-sale, 105 or Tiagra bike will easily be under $1,000 and plenty good enough for many years of moving up the Cat levels. With the Performance rebate and the extra $500+ OP can get all the rest of the stuff he needs. Entry level clothes and shoes, and helmet, and basic pump, tools, etc. With any luck he may get the cages and bottles thrown into the bike purchase for free.
Sure, used is another way to go, but if OP wants the surety and bling of new, it is not outside his declared $1,500 budget even for race-worthy stuff.
Right now cost really means the cost of the bike, pedals (perhaps), bottle cages, bottles, emergency tool kit, pump, shoes, shorts and jerseys, and helmet. The funny thing is that even that long list of all new stuff can be had for OP's declared budget during a sale at Performance. An aluminum, on-sale, 105 or Tiagra bike will easily be under $1,000 and plenty good enough for many years of moving up the Cat levels. With the Performance rebate and the extra $500+ OP can get all the rest of the stuff he needs. Entry level clothes and shoes, and helmet, and basic pump, tools, etc. With any luck he may get the cages and bottles thrown into the bike purchase for free.
Sure, used is another way to go, but if OP wants the surety and bling of new, it is not outside his declared $1,500 budget even for race-worthy stuff.
#29
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Many people race on bikes like a CAAD10 or CAAD12, with 105. https://www.rei.com/product/892480/c...-105-bike-2016
So you can find a competitive bike at around $1500 new, and even less used. Especially at lower levels you don't even want a $3k bike, since you're going to crash. At the highest levels of racing you're going to want a $3k-$8k bike, but that's a lot like any activity, where the equipment matters. Once you're competing at a high level there's discounts and other things to make it easier to buy the equipment you truly need.
So you can find a competitive bike at around $1500 new, and even less used. Especially at lower levels you don't even want a $3k bike, since you're going to crash. At the highest levels of racing you're going to want a $3k-$8k bike, but that's a lot like any activity, where the equipment matters. Once you're competing at a high level there's discounts and other things to make it easier to buy the equipment you truly need.
#30
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Bike racing is a rich man's sport. Yes, you can race on an inexpensive bike and if you have the fitness you'll do fine. But considering most cyclists believe it's necessary to spend exorbitant amounts of money on equipment, from wheels to socks, you might receive some raised eyebrows and a few negative comments. To be blunt, people might treat you like sh*t just for not wearing or riding the "right" stuff. I speak from experience racing and winning on inexpensive equipment and having people make all sorts of derogatory comments and assumptions about me, which I put up with because I enjoy the sport.
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#31
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I want to race.
I've got a mate in my Chemistry class at my College who is CAT 3 and has a $7,000 bike or something gnarly like that (Gnarly for me at least)
He tells me $3000 is a reasonable price for a bike, clothes and shoes to START.
I'm a college student, I choked on my Goldfish crackers when I heard that number.
Just speculative thought. I'm interested in the sport of cycling, but have no clue what kind of reasonable investment should be made to get my foot in the door.
I'm just looking for some suggestions on "first-step" approaches to my situation.
I've got a mate in my Chemistry class at my College who is CAT 3 and has a $7,000 bike or something gnarly like that (Gnarly for me at least)
He tells me $3000 is a reasonable price for a bike, clothes and shoes to START.
I'm a college student, I choked on my Goldfish crackers when I heard that number.
Just speculative thought. I'm interested in the sport of cycling, but have no clue what kind of reasonable investment should be made to get my foot in the door.
I'm just looking for some suggestions on "first-step" approaches to my situation.
Another reason for a budget bike, is that you may decide you don't like racing. It's not for everyone. Why spend big $$ on something you may not stick with ?
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#32
Blast from the Past
Any one of the CAAD's are excellent bikes. I could ride/afford pretty much anything and my current bike of choice is a CAAD10/Ultegra. Very well mannered bike, equal to it's very positive rep! 105 perfoms equal to Ultegra, I wouldn't hesitate to go with that groupset which gets you down to a pretty modest budget.
I would also second Homebrew's comment, at the line nobody really pays attention. As a matter of fact it's almost the reverse. If you want to be "that guy" be the new dude showing up with the $10K rig and geting shelled.
I would also second Homebrew's comment, at the line nobody really pays attention. As a matter of fact it's almost the reverse. If you want to be "that guy" be the new dude showing up with the $10K rig and geting shelled.
#33
~>~
You can be perfectly competitive on a $400 used bike versus a bunch of $12,000 bikes, it just depends on your fitness and race tactics. There's a forum here dedicated to racing that has a lot of great advice for beginners. If you haven't even started riding road bikes, you should spend a few months doing that at least to learn how to ride safely before even thinking about racing or training..
Join your local USAC affiliated cycle racing club to develop the necessary skills to race and get properly fitted.
Hardware is a Fashion in cycling, teammates are a great source for snapping up perfectly serviceable "obsolescent" stuff for "cheap".
Read this thread in the BF sub-forum "The 33"-Road Bike Racing" which is dedicated to the Sport:
https://www.bikeforums.net/33-road-bi...s-tip-two.html
It's Not about the Hardware, and Never has Been.
-Bandera
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If you want to race you're going to have to give up the Goldfish crackers....
#37
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I'm a cat 3 with expensive road bikes, and I started racing 10 years ago in college with a $300 steel bike with downtube shifters.
As long as you have something that rolls forward and can be configured to have an aggressive position, you'll be fine.
Have fun!
As long as you have something that rolls forward and can be configured to have an aggressive position, you'll be fine.
Have fun!
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#38
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Folks are being very creative and helpful trying to get the OP into racing at $1,500. I've just never met anyone that can do that and really race - say 10-20 races a year. A college team is the best idea.
Kit ~ shoes, helmet, shorts, jersey ~ $300
Race fees 10 races ~ $350
Bike ~ $1,000
Club Fee ~ $50 (or more with jersey)
Travel ~ $
Training time ~ $$
#39
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This is a good place to start. Bike could possibly get down to $500 for something used, or 7-800 for an entry level Cannondale CAAD 8, or Specialized Allez sport....either of which would be great race bikes for a beginner.
#40
Banned
^^ then You need a Car & all those costs to get you and ,Your kit to the races..
Cycle touring .. Its not about going fast, Its about just going somewhere..
Cycle touring .. Its not about going fast, Its about just going somewhere..
#42
commu*ist spy
If you think you want to commit to the sport, I would definitely recommend the caad. Probably caad 10 considering Caad12 just came out and there the Caad10 should be discounted. If I could go back in time and advise myself on bike selection, it would be to get a Caad10 and hold on to it forever. Caad10 with 105 and open mould carbon wheels... best value racing rig ever..
#43
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If you're serious about wanting to race, visit the 33, lurk for awhile (esp in the training and tech threads), and if you have specific questions and are willing to listen, there is a lot to be gleaned there.
#44
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Not really. Actual racers really don't care what equipment others use. And using equipment as any sort of guide is, well, misguided.
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#45
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is he racing that 7K bike in crits? .. 7,000 dollar yard sale? you dont need that kinda coin for a race bike esp.. if you are cat 5,, you can cut your teeth with a good alum frame and 105 9speed.. just get a good fit. join a club get some close quarter pace stuff under your belt before you go out to race though.. there will be plenty of time for a high Zoot race machine after you get your cat1.. but right now ... its just not needed. good second hand race ready rig... 700 to $1000.. mho
#46
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Then - many had steel bikes.
Folks are being very creative and helpful trying to get the OP into racing at $1,500. I've just never met anyone that can do that and really race - say 10-20 races a year. A college team is the best idea.
Kit ~ shoes, helmet, shorts, jersey ~ $300
Race fees 10 races ~ $350
Bike ~ $1,000
Club Fee ~ $50 (or more with jersey)
Travel ~ $
Training time ~ $$
Folks are being very creative and helpful trying to get the OP into racing at $1,500. I've just never met anyone that can do that and really race - say 10-20 races a year. A college team is the best idea.
Kit ~ shoes, helmet, shorts, jersey ~ $300
Race fees 10 races ~ $350
Bike ~ $1,000
Club Fee ~ $50 (or more with jersey)
Travel ~ $
Training time ~ $$
Last edited by rpenmanparker; 04-17-16 at 05:14 PM.
#47
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Of course it's misguided. That's why I said it's arbitrary! But that doesn't mean it doesn't happen. In fact, in my experience it's quite common. Apparently, your experience has been different.
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He's a college kid and I assume can parse the information needed out of that. But he may not have thought about race fees or the other things.
Simple answer is go to eBay and search and filter, do some group rides and see where he is. But the OP was about racing. Those other things come into play - including buying a license which I forgot to mention.
If OP does 2-3 races, that gives a flavor but is not really reflective of the cost of racing.
Simple answer is go to eBay and search and filter, do some group rides and see where he is. But the OP was about racing. Those other things come into play - including buying a license which I forgot to mention.
If OP does 2-3 races, that gives a flavor but is not really reflective of the cost of racing.
#49
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Look for a local club and see whether they have classifieds, otherwise Ebay, etc, etc. All you really need to get started is a bike that is mechanically sound and in good condition - YOU will be the one doing ALL the work!
I'd also recommend finding some local bunch rides with a shop or a group prior to pinning on a number, that way you can get used to the bunch dynamic before racing.
Good luck with it.
cheers
I'd also recommend finding some local bunch rides with a shop or a group prior to pinning on a number, that way you can get used to the bunch dynamic before racing.
Good luck with it.
cheers
#50
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He's a college kid and I assume can parse the information needed out of that. But he may not have thought about race fees or the other things.
Simple answer is go to eBay and search and filter, do some group rides and see where he is. But the OP was about racing. Those other things come into play - including buying a license which I forgot to mention.
If OP does 2-3 races, that gives a flavor but is not really reflective of the cost of racing.
Simple answer is go to eBay and search and filter, do some group rides and see where he is. But the OP was about racing. Those other things come into play - including buying a license which I forgot to mention.
If OP does 2-3 races, that gives a flavor but is not really reflective of the cost of racing.
Last edited by rpenmanparker; 04-17-16 at 06:46 PM.